#307044
Also I tried to make the iron arm, I cut, folded, and taped it then I tried to glue it. And the glue didn't stick. I used Caliber (CVS Brand) super glue gel. Should I use hot glue( as I already have a ton of it?) or go out and buy stronger super glue? And does it stick to the Aluminum? Thanks!
#307074
This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

When you're gluing to the Aluminum Air Conditioning Duct tape, SOMETIMES, it doesnt hold because of what looks like a rubber like membrane, I can superglue ALL DAY and ONE dickhole piece that was already giving me problems will do that (nothing is easy. ever.) NEVER FEAR, just pull off the infected area, and reapply the superglue. I use Loctite super glue, mostly because I can get .71 oz for 5 bucks, that means I dont have to go back and get more for atleast a few parts it's also been proven time and time again to work really well.

Some people use hot glue, I dont see how it's helpful because you want a very thin connection where the tabs meet, and hot glue cant do that (and they use a low temp melt DUMB), they also cake the inside of their Pepakura projects but I also dont see any benefits that can do, considering you're also using the AAC duct tape for the same reason. Honestly, when it comes to hot glue, there reaches a certain point in your prop making career when it shouldnt be used for an adhesive as often. It's great for welds, I'll be using it for that when the time comes.

When it comes to hot glue, take this as a very strong note, ALWAYS use a very HIGH MELT temp hot glue. You want to leave whatever you make in your car, in the hottest part of Georgia and be able to pull it out and put it on with out parts melting off. If you go cheap, and scrimp on important items like that,it will showand cost more to repair (being better materials and time, yes time is a cost.)


THIS is fiberglass Mat or Chop Mat - Its right above the fiberglass and Bondo in walmart and Home Depot, you dont want to get cloth, you need to get MAT. Cloth is good for doing complicated curves and shapes and making things smooth and pretty on the outside, this you're using for strength, and its on the inside so it doesnt have to look pretty(even though it should anyway).

http://www.amazon.com/3M-488-Bondo-Fibe ... B000BOA0BY < is that URL coming on to me?


Please, if you have any more questions about resin, hang tight, my plan is to complete the pack, and then apply resin. I'm mapping out how to go about doing that as we speak.


but, give me atleast another week and a half on that.

As for an update: The site being down the other day(YOU ALL HATE GARRETT MILLER!!) got the ball rolling on a POWERCELL and a CRANK GEN BOX. I'll have an update next week that will be very big, and will hopefully also include a PPD BOX2 because :
1, I messed up the one I had
2, I think I'm going for a different approach for when to apply resin
3, I want to share how one of the two easier parts is done.
#307153
So...
I lied. I finally figured out how to get my pictures from my phone to my computer(HELLO EFFICIENCY), so that got me pumped, and I made just enough progress on the POWERCELL to do a write up. Also, I'm including the CRANKGEN, and getting you started on the PPDBOX2 and ION ARM (these two, mostly because I didnt touch on them and want everyone to see all of the parts being put together so you're not completely on your own with anything.)

You're going to get sick of reading this:
Perforating, BEFORE you add tape is ESSENTIAL because it helps you refold the piece after tape is applied.

Patience. Patience.PATIENCE. PATIENCE.
So for today's RIDICULOUSLY HUGE update:
I'll be working on the POWERCELL NO RIBS, CRANK GEN NO RIBS, and get you started on theIONARM and PPDBOX2. So go ahead and OPEN THEM UP, and print them all out. One thing I've neglected to tell you, is leaving the files open while you're working will aid you in putting these together. I caught myself making a huge mistake if I applied superglue, I was going to attach a piece backwards.

THAT IS A NO NO. Mistakes waste time that you can use doing it properly.

Shut up Adam! WHAT TOOLS DO I NEED TODAY?

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Scissors
Utility Knife
Ruler
My Trusty Dead Pen
Aluminum Air Conditioning Duct Tape - further known as AACDTape because I'm sick of writing "Aluminum Air Conditioning Duct Tape"
Pushpin - because inevitably, your superglue will cake at the top and make your life difficult so you need to poke a hole in that reservoir and show it who's boss. I am the boss, YA GEDDIT SUPERGLUE?

Just a note, that neat plastic container behind the tools of the day was from a recent dumpster dive romp, and it's where I've been storing pieces after I'm finished putting them together, and another Pep project I'm supposed to be working on (IM SO SORRY ZACH I SWEAR IM DOING IT.). Dont run out and get one, but you know, it's helpful. Keep your eye out for one.

FOR CRYIN OUT LOUD MAN, WILL YOU GET STARTED ALREADY?!

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Now pop open POWERCELL NO RIBS (Listen, modeling it with ribs easier than Pep'ing the model with ribs.) You will be adding the ribs MUCH LATER NOT RIGHT NOW. The lighting in this pic was atrocious. but if you can tell, that's what it looks like printed out.

I'm going to warn you ahead of time, this particular couple days of assembly gave me all kinds of headaches. Some stupid mistakes on my part in assembly. Ok, mostly stupid mistakes on my part during assembly.

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Here it is cut from the paper, waiting for all it's folds to be perforated. The front of the powercell, where the lense goes was kind of a butt clencher, but I made it through ok. You'll be fine, just take a breath and watch where you cut with your xacto or utility knife.

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This is what me dropping the ball looks like. The whole point of this particular picture was to show the process of perforating your piece, and then flipping it over with the tabs folded under and applying the AACDTape. but we dont get that, I DID however do it for the CRANK GEN NO RIBS, which the same concept for all the pieces. For this picture, this piece says "Hey Adam, take your time and mind your folds, because I know you're going to fold me backwards and wonder what went wrong."

and I did exactly the opposite of what it asked of me to do.

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This is what it looks like when you dont pay attention. I had to flip everything back around, and glue it again. Not all of the glue would remove, and it had some of that rubber membrane I mentioned in the post above this one, so now this POWERCELL NO RIBS has a stupid looking bubble on it. THIS ONE'S GOIN TO MY GIRLFRIEND'S PACK! WINNING

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Can you feel how unhappy I am with this piece? It's even frowning.

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On the inside it looks pretty, the bottom part, you can KIND OF see where you will later be filling with alot of resin goo or RONDO. Yep kids, We're going to play with RONDO. I'm just as excited as you are. I'm not happy that the Magic Skewer was taking a break, and refused to point at that section for us. Skewers are unionizing now. Look out Shishkabobs!

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Here we are after I attached the "wall" where the powercell lense goes. Can you tell what I did wrong? I made the part too large. So, to rectify this, assemble it, and cut it down from the back to about an inch. That way it still keeps that shape strong, and you can get behind it and resin.

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Also, You will be dremelling alot of this off after sanding. I marked it on the back before I applied, but then 1/8" was covered by the tabs. since the tabs are 1/8" just cut to the tabs when it comes time to that. BUT THATS NOT HAPPENING YET.

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"PC why doesn't my POWERCELL sit right?" That skewer is pointing at the reason why. There IS an angle there on the screen used packs. I bothered everyone I know that would know for what seemed like days to get that measurement. Suck it up, I think that's why that bottom looks like poop on that one, but it'll get covered up by a rib anyway when we put them on later. MUCH LATER DONT GET AHEAD OF ME PLEASE.

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Stick a fork in it.

On to the CRANK GEN NO RIBS.

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"Oh yeah, I'm supposed to take a photo of what it looks like printed out."

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This is an example how tedious this component is. There are ALOT of tiny tabs, and ALOT of curves. Curves my friend, are a bitch. Tiny tabs, are also, a bitch. Here and ONLY here, is where I'll say, It's perfectly fine for you to cut a few tabs. I just made some snips at this corner and folded them.

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I KNEW that skewer was going to come in handy when I didnt need it to point at something! it's the perfect circumference for these tediously anal curves on this component. Seriously, right here it's also perfectly fine for you not to perforate, but please, this is prefolding and you should already be doing it for me.

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Here I actually did perforate, because the lines were spaced enough to do that. I think I rolled it over the Dead pen, but it's ok if you dont.

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In this one, you see how these tabs can get really small, i just made them all into one big tab. Honestly, I dont even think I glued them when the time came. MOSTLY because an important tab there, wasnt there in the unfold. I'll clean that mess up in a bit.

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All of those little jerks became one tab. WINNING. The piece to the next of it, didnt have a much needed tab. LOSING.


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So I fumbled. This is from the POWERCELL NO RIBS, but, it helps this next picture pick up the ball, and make a kick off. What you see here, is a piece with its tabs folded onto the face and turned so the white part (or inside) of the piece is facing up, and the face(outside) and tabs are folded and facing down

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Here we're looking at what was the last photo, but with tape and for the actual component we're working on. Be careful and take your time when you pull it up. If you dont...

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THIS HAPPENS.

Now, you can do one of a few things.

1. Freak out. - Which is what I initially did. I think I also spit on the carpet and kicked the sofa. I dont remember because I
1.5 Blacked out.
2. AACDTape the inside of it, superglue over the face, and hope for the best. - eh. it might mess up the fitting of the rest of the component.
3. Print it out and do it again. - What I did.

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This is where we left off.

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I like writing myself little notes. It helps me remember things. If you're making the same mistakes I'm making, take heed to that. I swear, this is where I make alot of my mistakes. I NEED to sit back some times and screw around. Mistakes waste alot of time, and alot of material, and I hate them.

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Now we're on to the sides of the CRANK GEN NO RIBS.

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Now, I could have folded the tabs under and taped the inside white side like usual, but for some reason I didnt. Dont do it this way, get into the habit of doing it properly. I found myself lining up the tape sides to the perforations, and I did more work on it this way than I should have. Another mistake, another waste of time. ANYWAY the best part of this picture is, next to the skewer is a 90 degree piece that isnt a tab. It's actually a piece that you need to attach tape on the inside to later to connect another piece to, because either the unfolded tab was too small, or it did a cut there instead. < you know...remember that.

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Here we are, finally I'm doing something right.

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Here I thought it would be a good idea to attach these parts laying down. It helped me match up the numbers, see where everything fit and then glue. It was a good idea.

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I hate tabs like this. see how it gets REALLY thin where the skewer's pointing? There's nothing to grab. So glue what you can, and tape on the inside.

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Remember earlier when I said :
t's actually a piece that you need to attach tape on the inside to later to connect another piece to, because either the unfolded tab was too small, or it did a cut there instead. < you know...remember that.
This area is a whole nasty Fiasco of fun and games. WHERE THE HELL ARE MY TABS!?
More couch kicking. More spitting on the carpet.

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oh. Scotch Tape. So, what I did, was I taped where they would connect if there was a tab with scotch tape. Then I went on the inside...

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like this. You can see where the AACDTape is curved round, and meets every where that there's that dickhole small curve and places with out a stupid tab. I'm not angry.

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After I AACDTaped the inside. I went back to the face, removed the scotch tape, and superglued where they're supposed to meet. I had to finagle it a little to meet because I pushed too hard, but everything turned out ok

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This complicated curve had a tab. Thank you complicated curve!

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STICKA FORK INNIT.


extra credit

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IONARM. This guy is easier to do in two pieces, one, being that if you see most kits, they're done this way. folded over and glued then given the fake weld. It's a no brainer after you get it cut out, perforated, folded and glued.

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You'll see I made some notes, I wrote them during the first 2 tries to this project. You dont necessarily need a skeleton for the IONARM. It didnt help the way I was doing it and those pieces are in the landfill.

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PPDBOX2 assembled the same way as the IONARM.

Next week, I'll assemble them with more pictures, and do the GUNMOUNTBOX (more curves and missing tabs!). HOPEFULLY, I'll get around to the COSMETIC PLATING. So, hopefully looking at these, the process of DOING them, you can see it's alot of work and can understand that me working through them for you, saves you all kinds of questions when making your own.
#307212
I think the idea of using tape on the inside is interesting. When I built my Master Chief armor, I tried just applying fiberglass resin on the outside to stiffen the the models up, but as you mentioned it's pretty much an unmitigated disaster.

Not saying this is better or anything, but the method that worked best for me was to cut the pieces out of cardstock, assemble using hot glue. After I had usable shapes, I essentially rotocast the inside of the pieces using Smooth-On casting resin. I picked this technique up from the 405th http://www.405th.com/forum.php. Additionally, others have found success with a similar method but using "Rondo" which is a combination of fiberglass resin & Bondo.

There are TONS of Pepakura-related threads at the 405th, it's a fantastic resource for papercraft projects.
#308506
PC, you have the patience of a pedo outside a school zone.

I commend you on your solid efforts, but like mr kansas above me stated... "this is making me cross eyed" I cant fathom going this route, but you get 2 crunch bars so far... and another after I get that sandwich.
#308522
PROJECT INTERLUDE FOR SPINNING HEADS

I can understand how pep can appear nutty, and its also a strange new uncharted thing for the majority of the community. Honestly, the work involved appears intense, but really kids, it boils down to CUTTING PAPER AND SUPER GLUING IT. I can also understand how heads can spin until results are seen. So, here's a completely unrelated project I've worked on to show how Pepakura can turn small pieces of paper into tying for the coolest prop I've ever done (other being my Jet Pack to go along with it).

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Imagine THAT, for the Proton Pack. See, my Rocketeer helmet consisted of pieces of paper no wider or longer than 1"X4", how I unfolded the proton pack, there are larger pieces to work with (MUCH EASIER)

Like I said, patience with this medium is a virtue. Just work with it, take your time, and results will be fantastic. How cool do you think it'll be when you're done with your Pepakura packs to tell your pals you made it by CUTTING AND SUPERGLUING PAPER. and learned how to use resin, bondo, rondo and other things you can apply to future prop projects?


PROJECT UPDATE


I've completed another PPDBOX2, IONARM and started on a GUNMOUNT BOX. This week's been really shitty with a 2 day migraine, and I needed to take a break from this (getting frustrated with it, DO NOT BE ALARMED ITS NATURAL WITH ANY PROJECT, I've been accumulating GB uniform related materials and was a little excited to play with that stuff) so I used the time work on a belt gizmo. I have way too much planned for my personal packs, so, I'm overloading my thoughts with what I want to do and what needs to be done to do what I want to do, not to mention how to do it.

I hate being so creative sometimes. Drives me nuts.

Remember if you get flustered, or keep messing up, or confused by the idea of Pepakura:

CUTTING AND SUPER GLUING PAPER. It's all it is.
#308737


HERE'S WHERE I LEFT YOU HANGING.
ProtonCharger wrote:extra credit

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IONARM. This guy is easier to do in two pieces, one, being that if you see most kits, they're done this way. folded over and glued then given the fake weld. It's a no brainer after you get it cut out, perforated, folded and glued.

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You'll see I made some notes, I wrote them during the first 2 tries to this project. You dont necessarily need a skeleton for the IONARM. It didnt help the way I was doing it and those pieces are in the landfill.


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Here's what it looks like when you're doing the IONARM properly. With it's tabs folded over the face, folded parts are prefolded, and it's waiting patiently to be AADCTaped.

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Inside facing up for AADCTape, see how the tabs are folded under for easy folding later.

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I thought it was a good idea NOT to take a picture of assembly, because this wasnt a complicated component. I mean, I could have, but that was really the nice way of saying I either "dropped the ball" or "was on a roll", really, it's a box you're gluing together from CUT PIECES OF PAPER, not the next ship for the space program.

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See? It's an IONARM. NOT an International Space Station



OH SNAP, ITS THE PPDBOX2
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PPDBOX2 assembled the same way as the IONARM.
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Look kids. The PPDBOX2 is just as easy as the last one. So I didnt take a picture because of fear of being redundant and less entertaining. So what I'm telling you with THIS PICTURE, is NOT TO TAPE IT UNTIL THE FRONT HALF OF THE BOX AND SIDES ARE COMPLETE. Easiest way to assemble this piece is glue all the sides where they meet as a strip. NOT attaching this piece, until they are all attached to the FACE of the component.

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WHERE DID I PUT MY FORK!?




That's it for now. It was brought to my attention that my GUNMOUNTBOX was not correct, so, I'll have that fixed, unfolded and PEP and SOLIDWORKS files will be up shortly.
#308738
Paper is great for building prototypes. I started using it as a kid when I wasn't satisfied with a regular folded paper airplane. I wanted a biplane, with a propeller and wheels. So I built one.
Like he said, use the heaviest card you know your printer can handle.
I actually used mat board for my armor, but it will not help if you're following a print out instead of cutting it free hand .
#308759
HERE WE GO


There was a link to an updated file here, but it's been added to A NEW archived file in the first post of the thread, located at the bottom RIGHT HERE:http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtopic.php?p=305434
MAJOR thanks to Matt Burkit for pointing out and helping me fix this very important pack component.
#308798
ACCURATE PEPAKURA GUNMOUNT BOX - You need this for this build. To avoid confusion, DELETE the old one called GUNMOUNTBOX NO RIBS and the other one with ribs. OR KILL IT WITH FIRE.
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=AYZVRGMS

ACCURATE SOLIDWORKS GUNMOUNT BOX
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=E7TYL5RH
:-|
crap
need
to
start
over. But, its cool.

This is still a great thread and great build.
#311740
Alright kids,


REMEMBER...
ProtonCharger wrote:HERE WE GO



There was a link to an updated file here, but it's been added to A NEW archived file in the first post of the thread, located at the bottom RIGHT HERE:http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtopic.php?p=305434
DAMN, AQUAMAN SURE CAN DANCE! No. That's NOT what I want you to remember. I want you to remember that I modified some files, and uploaded them. Changing the GUNMOUNTBOX...meant...I had to change the CORNERPLATE. So either you use the one you have...which is fine, except you have this ugly gap to fill now, or you can use the new one that meets all the way down to the top of the new GUNMOUNTBOX

I ALSO was in a giving mood today and thought
the crap in my head wrote: You know Adam, you handsome devil you, maybe you ought to fix the side of your gunbox because that curved side is scary with all those gaps you need to fill by taking out that stupid drilled hole you didnt need to put there in the first place and maybe making your own tabs might even be more of a task for you, and if you change it then you should share it. Also, it probably wasnt the best idea in the world for you to reheat and eat that Chipotle burrito from yesterday.
YES, I THINK IN RUN ON SENTENCES.

I'm also at a point where, my original plan from the start was to turn my pepakura pack into a game pack. I am needing to shift my focus on my pack components for game style ones. I will have updates of them contained in this thread. However I'm still on the fence about doing regular pack components for another pack (I dont need a 4th pack because I'll already have one loaner), to show they can be done, BUT what I need to do, is modeled modified regular pack parts anyway. For those of you following along, it wouldnt be too hard to keep up with my ramblings about game pack stuff while working on your regular packs because...

Either way, I havent come to resin and bondo, and then that part of the build will be very VERY helpful for anyone (remember I'm all inclusive building for new proppers).

So, with this update that includes absolutely nothing pertaining to a physically built part of my pack, possible heart break because I'm shifting focus to a game pack, but you get some really neat files!

as I update new files they will be called: "FIXED (I AM A FILENAME)" . To avoid confusion for myself (BECAUSE I HAVE A CRAP TON OF THE SAME FILE FOR BACK UP) and others. Here they are!
There was a link to an updated file here, but it's been added to A NEW archived file in the first post of the thread, located at the bottom RIGHT HERE:http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtopic.php?p=305434

HEY ADAM WHY ARE YOU SUCH A JERK OFF AND DIDNT UPLOAD THE GUNBOX FILE?!


because I "suppressed" the feature that was a drilled hole and didnt need to reupload a file you already had. Thanks. Besides, there are plenty of other valid reasons why I'm a jerk off.
#311911
Wow... that calls for tons of patience..

Paper is a great medium. I am happy to see you are getting such great results from using it. I know once it is coated it will also handle light moisture due to random weather.

very nice indeed
#311951
azmyth wrote:Hmm, this might be a viable option for my next pack. I'm still one of those who can't afford to spend hundreds on a prefabbed shell, and suck at carpentry.. surely I can fold and glue some paper.
exactly!
#314685


I spent the last of March and beginning of April working on my Pepakura Dematerializer, here's where I'm at.

The first thing I did was get all my materials together for the FIXEDCORNERPLATE. Those of you keeping up will remember that I uploaded an updated file a few posts back on this page ( I even changed the original link to the file so all the updated files are included in the zip on the first post). You should open up, and print out FIXED CORNER PLATE

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OBLIGATORY LIST OF TOOLS!
Scissors, a ruler, the printed file, and a dead pen. Not pictured? Aluminum Air Conditioning Duct Tape and a utility knife.

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ALL YOU DID WAS TAKE THE SCISSERS OUT! Yeah. I know, but what this fuzzy picture doesnt show you, is that it's all perforated anxiously awaiting its folds to be folded under for the AACDT (REMEMBER THAT FUN ACRONYM FOR ALUMINUM AIR CONDITIONING DUCT TAPE!?)

GUESS WHAT IM NOT GOING TO SHOW YOU!?

A picture of the tabs folded under and the inside taped, mostly because I didnt take one of this particular corner plate. I dont even have assembly photos. Just the finished piece. In my usual fashion I'll take more photos of the second one I make, so you can really get an idea what the heck I'm doing.

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I'll tell you what I dont like about that picture.
1, my finger is covering up some of those stupid r'tarded small tabs that wouldnt go into the box and take superglue like a real man.
2, that "curved" corner has like a weird gaping hole and it doesnt accept that angle it's intended to do.

Both are fine, and are easy fixes when we come to the resin and bondo part later, right now, this is something that MAY discourage someone, and think "DAMNIT, ALL THIS HARD WORK FOR GARBAGE. IM THROWING IT OUT AND BUYING 90 DOLLARS WORTH OF ELECTRICAL BOXES AND HOT GLUE THAT I'LL REPAIR FOR THE REST OF MY LIFE"

Dont do that. Keep at it with me, and everything'll be all right. I have a picture at the bottom (DONT LOOK YET!) that there's a bunch of things needing to be fixed, that will be fixed when we reach resin and bondo.

we'll call this one, "FINISHED UNTIL MY NEXT UPDATE WHEN I SHOW MY SECOND ONE."



NOW THE DEMATERIALIZER'S COSMETICPLATING

WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE ALL CUT OUT?!

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Like this. You'll also need the same tools that you needed above, even the ones not pictured. and the file you're working with is called COSMETIC PLATING

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This is assembly with everything perforated, and the AACDT applied to the inside and tabs superglued. You'll also notice with the next two photos that I have it assembled up to the point of the files you have.

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This one shows that inside curve of the plating where the SPACERWPLATES will meet. Frankly, this particular part was a BITCH and a half for me to glue, and it even helped get this part to lay funny. So I ended up cutting off the tabs and that space just sit free, since this is something I can fix with bondo later. I did however take care to glue the "inside walls" of that part, because it does need some sort of stability there.

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Final photo of what I have assembled that will resemble YOUR file.

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See? This is what MY cosmetic plating looks like finished. I've opted out of doing the flippy stasis ribs like I originally wanted to, but cripes, SOME of this stuff just defies the laws of physics.

Thats all for my Ghost Dematerializer for now. Next update I hope to have some misc new pictures of some old components, including some that show where to draw some tabs for a CRANKGEN (because I dont like how that one i have in this thread is put together) and an different approach to the POWERCELL's screen window. FINGERS CROSSED, I'll be started on a SPACERWPLATES.

and just for everyone to see WHERE THE HECK WE'RE AT
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yay for shadows in pictures obscuring stuff.


SEE YOU IN A COUPLE WEEKS.
#314886
My personal packs are going to be game packs.
ProtonCharger wrote: I'm also at a point where, my original plan from the start was to turn my pepakura pack into a game pack. I am needing to shift my focus on my pack components for game style ones. I will have updates of them contained in this thread. However I'm still on the fence about doing regular pack components for another pack (I dont need a 4th pack because I'll already have one loaner), to show they can be done, BUT what I need to do, is modeled modified regular pack parts anyway. For those of you following along, it wouldnt be too hard to keep up with my ramblings about game pack stuff while working on your regular packs because...

Either way, I havent come to resin and bondo, and then that part of the build will be very VERY helpful for anyone (remember I'm all inclusive building for new proppers).

So, with this update that includes absolutely nothing pertaining to a physically built part of my pack, possible heart break because I'm shifting focus to a game pack, but you get some really neat files!

I'm running out of regular movie pack components to work with, and running into parts that need to be game pack parts. Not to worry though, my next major updates will have the SPACERWPLATES and CYCLOTRONFORPEP and my FIXEDGUNBOXATTACHEDTRIGGERBOX, which are movie pack parts with no need for game pack modification. When it comes to ribs for the packs I'll do a quick run through of what I originally intended for the movie pack and how to do them, but that wont happen until after I put a layer of resin on the pack anyway (which wont be permanent because I have a different set up for game style ribs).

A little note about the game pack cosmetic plating:
I badgered people for the better part of a week in the chat and around the internet for opinions on if I should make the cosmetic plating for the game pack "stepped" like it is in the movie, or "flat" which could just be a modeling error. I hated to see that stepped look go, but greater good an all for "accuracy" sake I made it a flat piece. If you're REALLY ABSOLUTELY INTERESTED I'll show my comparison shots between the two later, though I've moved on and settled on it being this way and wont be changing it.

As it stands with my game pack files, I would like people to get a handle on the pepakura with the regular movie packs before I figure out how I'm going to release the pep files publicly.
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