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View new posts | View your posts Proton Gun build from V3.0 kit.

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PostPosted: July 18th, 2012, 4:56 am 
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I did cut the knobs off using one of those very thin bladed pull saws. The body of the gun was not even scratched during the process. In fact the knobs came off so cleanly that I bundled them up with the resin knobs that came with the kit and sold the whole set on ebay. Just go very slowly and hold the saw flat against the body of the gun.


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PostPosted: July 18th, 2012, 6:20 am 
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Hi guys,

How thin a blade are we talking? I'm thinking of doing the same with all metal knobs and barrels! I have metal knobs on their way

Thx


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PostPosted: July 18th, 2012, 9:26 am 
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Deadmike wrote:
Hi guys,

How thin a blade are we talking? I'm thinking of doing the same with all metal knobs and barrels! I have metal knobs on their way

Thx


The saw is a flush-cut saw made by Irwin. The blade is very thin and the teeth do not project out from the sides at all, which is very important.


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PostPosted: July 28th, 2012, 9:11 pm 
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edit, I found the answer I was looking for please disregard this post.


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PostPosted: August 1st, 2012, 4:26 pm 
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I have a real Clippard valve that I intend to use with my V3 thrower but I, like an idiot, over drilled the holes for the mounting bolts. Now the screws have nothing to bite into. What's the best solution for securing the valve to the gun body with out using the screws?

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PostPosted: August 1st, 2012, 4:39 pm 
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Use a nut and a washer on the other side?

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PostPosted: August 1st, 2012, 5:08 pm 
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ThrowingChicken wrote:
Use a nut and a washer on the other side?

I can for the inboard side of the valve, but the outboard side is right up against the sidewall of the gun body and I cant get a nut on it.

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PostPosted: August 1st, 2012, 5:13 pm 
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Plumbers putty should do the trick.

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PostPosted: August 1st, 2012, 5:17 pm 
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I have to agree with TC, on my kit I had to use plumbers putty to reinforce the holes that hold the bottom plate on. It was nice and strong, showed no signs of coming loose or anything. It might help to put a little super glue on your valve too.

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PostPosted: August 1st, 2012, 5:18 pm 
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I was thinking that, just wanted to be sure, thanks TC. Awesome kit by the way, I'm having a lot of fun building it!

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PostPosted: August 2nd, 2012, 11:15 am 
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ThrowingChicken wrote:
The threaded posts I used were just bolts with the heads cut off. You can buy threaded rod at just about any hardware store. You can also use a set screw, which is like a threaded rod, but one end can be screwed in with an Allen wrench.

I used these #8-32x1" hangar bolts and they work great! To get them in just use two nuts tightened together on the fine threaded end. The coarse thread bites into the resin well. I believe the pilot holes I drilled were 9/64".
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PostPosted: August 4th, 2012, 4:42 pm 
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Did you ever get a barrel extension system working? Given the amount of room my own attempts have been pretty underwhelming.

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PostPosted: August 6th, 2012, 5:19 am 
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90 minutes to build up that finished product? TC, you're undercharging! I sold an older version of your kit last year, but this looks like something my kid is almost old enough to help build up - I may have to replace it!


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PostPosted: August 6th, 2012, 9:31 am 
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LOL, thanks! Haven't seen you around here in a while.

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PostPosted: August 23rd, 2012, 7:47 am 
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Has anyone installed a R2DEVO light kit in one of these? I was wondering how they handled the green lever and bar graph getting in the way of each other?


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PostPosted: August 26th, 2012, 8:58 am 
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Wallabe wrote:
Did you ever get a barrel extension system working? Given the amount of room my own attempts have been pretty underwhelming.


I second this. I would love to see some barrel extension stuff. I have not gotten my lights/sounds in yet. But I don't think there will be much room once I do :-)

Ideas welcome.


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PostPosted: October 7th, 2012, 6:42 pm 
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I'm finally concentrating on my thrower build and I've got a couple of questions TC (or anybody!).

Is the gun lock set screw really enough to hold it on? I guess I don't see an alternative, but I just wanted to make sure.

Any suggestions on running the ear button wires (not the hat light, I've got that inside the ear)? Maybe run them behind the ear into the same channel the hat light wires go?

Same question about the wires from the barrel lock area into the gun box? I'm just not sure of the best place to drill into the gun box.

Thanks!


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PostPosted: November 21st, 2012, 9:33 am 
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You make it look so easy. I think the biggest problem I will have is gonna be the rear instrument bar. Everything else looks pretty easy. Thanks for this tutorial, I shouldnt have too much trouble. :)


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PostPosted: November 21st, 2012, 10:50 am 
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Just drill as straight as you can and it should be pretty easy.

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PostPosted: January 28th, 2013, 3:04 pm 
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[quote=
Image
To attach the Trigger Box, take a couple of threaded rods or long set screws and imbed them into Rear Instrument Bar as pictured above. My rods screwed in tightly, but I added a drop of super glue into each hole before screwing them in just for added grip. You will want them to stick out about 1/4".

Image
Next, take your handle and put it over the peg. Take a set screw and tighten it down through the hole you drilled in the step above. Do not tighten to the point that you strip the threads you are making, but just tight enough that it starts to make a slight mark on the peg.

[/quote]

TC which size and length set screw would you recommend to attach the trigger box6-32 or 8-32? for odd reasons the HD close to me doesn't have either of those longer than1/2in. Same thing for the barrel......still not sure if I want to have a stationary barrel or set it up for rotation once i find a tutorial for it. thoughts?


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PostPosted: January 28th, 2013, 3:09 pm 
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Try an ACE Hardware.

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PostPosted: January 29th, 2013, 5:00 pm 
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Im deffinately will be ordering one of these after taxes. Hopefully you still have them.


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PostPosted: February 9th, 2013, 5:52 pm 
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Wow, thank you for this! I have one of your kits and this helps a lot! Whoop! Whoop! I had a question Justin, what size aluminum pipe did you use for your handle in this? ID & OD plus length?

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PostPosted: February 10th, 2013, 7:47 pm 
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(OD = 1.25", ID = 1.125") its in the thread...just have to read it all the way through. I think the question that should be asked is ..what is the wall thickness of the tubing you used? I placed an order from speedy metals around the time I ordered your kit TC and the only option I saw with the OD and ID you stated had a wall thickness that was a little thick and certainly not the tubing depicted in your build thread. What I got from speedy metals would probably work for the rear handle but no way it could go for the front handle.

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PostPosted: February 11th, 2013, 1:49 am 
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lunchbox739 wrote:
(OD = 1.25", ID = 1.125") its in the thread...just have to read it all the way through. I think the question that should be asked is ..what is the wall thickness of the tubing you used? I placed an order from speedy metals around the time I ordered your kit TC and the only option I saw with the OD and ID you stated had a wall thickness that was a little thick and certainly not the tubing depicted in your build thread. What I got from speedy metals would probably work for the rear handle but no way it could go for the front handle.


I did read it through, guessing I should have been more specific on this Lunchbox. I already have those dimensions for my front aluminum pipe handle. It looks like the same dimensions will fit the rear handle but TC gives no mention in his thread about the rear pipe dimensions. I just wanted a verification if he used the same pipe on the front as well as the rear.

Measuring the pipe I have now on the front handle with some digital calipers it is very close to this on the Speedy Metals website:

http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4571-837 ... minum.aspx

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PostPosted: February 11th, 2013, 7:45 am 
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you were as clear as you could be sir...I actually in my quick glance missed the very clearly typed "length" after ID & OD.

IF TC doesnt answer this Vincenzo330's DIY Aluminum parts thread can probably help you.

http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25357 <-----------

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PostPosted: February 11th, 2013, 1:16 pm 
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This should fit just fine for the front tube - http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4571-837 ... minum.aspx

It might be a tight fit, but that isn't necessarily a bad thing.

On the flip side there is this tube which would be a little more loose fitting over the peg - https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.c ... top_cat=60

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PostPosted: February 11th, 2013, 1:51 pm 
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Ordered a length of the .065 wall tube this morning....

Cant wait to get this pack together...its been a long time coming

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PostPosted: February 11th, 2013, 7:24 pm 
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Thank you Lunchbox, very helpful thread. Plus I can vouch for that pipe size TC since that is what I currently have on mines. It's your your V3.0 with out the one piece pipe. So I have it replaced with a aluminum pipe in front. LOL, actually the line you posted is the same link I left in my post based off of my measurement I took of it. So it fits just fine.

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