[Ecto751]

Ok, so I got a TC 3.0 wand kit and I'm working on fitting up the Jupiter light kit that I have. I'm looking to try to make this wand as close to screen accurate as possible,so here is my question. If a bar graph frame is not accurate then what is the best way to replicate whats seen on film? I have read in the forums about people using the side of a cd case but it doesn't seem large enough to create the look of a "frame" around the bar graph window. I would be great to see how others have done this. Thanks

[drjameshouse]

From what I have seen people have gone 2 routes....a frame (like from R2DEVO) or using the CD case. You are correct that there wasn't a frame, so neither are technically screen accurate. As far seeing what others have done, your best bet is to just look through every build thread.

Maybe someone has a different method and will post it here, but those are the 2 I have seen the most.

[Vincenzo330]

The real part was a VFD. Unless you have one of those you can pretty much do whatever you want for that part, as no one method is more accurate than another.

[ChapterMasterTu'Shan]

On the film throwers, it's an incandescent indicator that's seated 1/16-1/8 inches proud of the surface. The rim is pretty much just black plastic, so if you were to use an R2DEVO frame, trimmed it a little thinner around the outside and painted black, it should have an okay look. The ziptie/jewel case is more to give the illusion of more segments than are actually there.