[shodanmark]

After many months of hoarding parts from various sources; Irricanian, throwingchicken, uscm buzz, gbfans shop, etc. I've finally started work on the neutrona wand. Here I've just tacked on parts to see what the finished wand will look like.

There's a real R-701 and I'm still waiting on some other bits and pieces including the gun knobs Irricanian will be offering up. Eventually I'll put a light kit inside.

Comments/suggestions welcome!!

[nick-a-tron]

haha thats looking pretty nice already! with all those nice parts i think it's going to be hard to mess this one up anyplans on how your going to paint it? shiny and new or old and weathered?

[Andy_2_cool]

yay !
^_^
ready to bust ghosts now at the next con

[shodanmark]

Thanks for the comments guys!

I was thinking of weathering it for sure. I have some chrome spray paint which I'm going to use first, then paint it a flat black afterwards, sanding lightly at the edges and corners... hope that method works!!

Well hopefully as soon as I get a shell and mobo, the pack wont take too long to complete, so fingers crossed for the next con!

[Vinster]

Good for you man, that is looking really nice.

[irricanian]

Looking good Mark, thats a TC gunbox right?

[shodanmark]

Hi Colin, yes it's throwingchicken gun box. While the hole for the rear handle was already cut out, I had a job with the one for the barrel. I used a 35 spade, slipped and messed it up! But fortunately a bit of filler and sanding saved the day! It's all a new learning process for me!

[Luke R]

Looks like you have all the ingredients for a great thrower! My favourite part is the assembling and finishing, I'm lazy!

I too have bought many parts from the guys on these boards, I have about 90% of the parts for 3 full packs, 2 of which I'm heavily into building, but it's been difficult finding the time to complete them!

Had so little time for GB props the last 4 or 5 months, but I drop in here as much as I can to stay inspired.

[shodanmark]

Thanks Luke.

I managed to attach the trigger box today (I have a week off work - woohoo!). Hopefully I'll assemble it all properly this week, then give it a coat of primer.

What do people generally use for the bottom plate? I have a piece of 3x5" wood but it is way too thick. Also I think I may have to drill into the guntrack for the bolts as it seems there isn't a big enough gap between the box and track each side - see last two pics.

[Andy_2_cool]

I have my base plate fit inside the gun shell....rather than a lid (like urs atm) so that it doesnt stick out at all. Try that

[nick-a-tron]

yeah i think Andy is right, i think the lid bottom is supposed to go inside the gunbox, not ontop.

[shodanmark]

Yes, I think I'll cut it smaller and place it inside on top of some mounting pegs... however I still have the problem of the bolts fitting between the track and gun body. Will have to drill at the edges of the guntrack I think. Unless people out there offer guntracks slimmer than 2 1/4" ?

[Luke R]

How about putting a couple of magnet catch's inside the gun body?

That way it the base of the bun body can be mounted flush inside without need for screws or bolts?
Once in place you can use the gun track to lever it in and out for access to lights?

[StrayFelisCatus]

How about putting a couple of magnet catch's inside the gun body?

That way it the base of the bun body can be mounted flush inside without need for screws or bolts?
Once in place you can use the gun track to lever it in and out for access to lights?

That's actually a pretty good idea. I might try that when I build my gun.

[shodanmark]

I never thought of that... it would have to be pretty secure though. Is this what you have done?

[jettajeffro]

Here's a screen used wand pic



My old gun box has a wooden lid inside, which will probably work best for your set up as well, but you weren't wrong to have it on top either. The on top setup works best with an aluminum plate.

[SolidGoldCaddy]

How about putting a couple of magnet catch's inside the gun body?

That way it the base of the bun body can be mounted flush inside without need for screws or bolts?
Once in place you can use the gun track to lever it in and out for access to lights?

The only problem with that is that you will need super strong magnets. Otherwise when you go to remove the gun from the Vhook, you may take off the bottom of the box with it. And if you do use stong magnets, getting the box off when you need to could prove problematic. Just trying to save some headaches.

[shodanmark]

OK, so here's a quick update. I now have switches and buttons (purely for cosmetics... I'll be putting an exoray light kit inside when I can afford to.)

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I think I'll go with mounting the lid inside of the box using 10-32 threaded inserts. I found this on google. This guy GB John's method looks good. He's on here but I don't know his name. http://www.pokbooks.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=111



I ordered the inserts and bolts through eBay yesterday so until I get them I won't be doing anymore. I want to get the bottom plate complete before I start attaching the other parts permanently as I guess it will be easier to work with just a gun box than a completed thrower.

I may post pics of my completed pack parts over the next few days/week.

[shodanmark]

OK, so it's been a while so here's where I'm at:

I epoxyed in some pegs with 10-32 threaded inserts and it's worked a treat!


And I've finally fixed everything together. All I have to do now is paint it and add the switches, knobs etc. Which I won't be doing for a couple of weeks due to other commitments. So close, but yet so far!!







And here's my ALICE frame which I'm going to paint black:

[AJ Quick]

Good job with the bolts on the gun.

I've never liked seeing people use self tapping screws into the resin or tapping the resin.. it's gotta be something like this or it will fall apart.

[Lionbush]

Think I'll go down that road too. Where did you get the threaded inserts from?

[shodanmark]

This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

I got mine through ebay. Search for 10-32 threaded inserts. I got mine here, you'll need 2.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Great-Planes-BRASS- ... .m20.l1116

[loly2kn2]

Looks good so far Mark!!

When you plan on premièring it?

Lawrence

[Lionbush]

Thanks for the link. I take it you need to buy bolts then to screw into the inserts?

[shodanmark]

I'll be priming it in a couple of weeks as I have a busy weekend coming up. I have to do it outside and as the weather's pretty crap now I can only do it at weekends as it's pretty dark when I get home from work.

Lionbush, yes you'll need 1 inch long 10-32 allen screws. I got mine from Colin.

WARNING: If anyone does go down the same route I did, make sure when you drop the inserts into the pegs that no epoxy gets inside. I tried screwing in the bolts and on most of them, the damn things we're blocked by the tiniest amount. Meaning if you force it through, the things'll snap off. I'm having to remove them and start again At least I can do that indoors...

[Lionbush]

Cheers for that will have a look now.

By the way if you live in the UK youu can use No More Nails to fix the insterts inside the peg. It leaves less residue and is as strong as anything for bonding. It just takes a little longer to dry (1/2 hrs).

[shodanmark]

I have some! Why didn't I think of that? Thanks for tip I'll give it a go when I re-do them.

[Lionbush]

haha

I glued washers together with it whilst trying the washer ion knob method and they just won't shift!

[shodanmark]

PRIMED!


CHROMED!


BLACK!


VOILA!












Just waiting on some metal banjo's from namebrand and alu trigger tip/ring from exoray.

Now on to the pack...Stay tuned!

[loly2kn2]

Looks great Mark! Nice work!!

are those the PVJ and namebrand transfers? If so when did you get them?

Lawrence