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PostPosted: February 13th, 2012, 2:37 pm 
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Hello all!

I'm currently in process of scratchbuilding my first pack and started of using styrene, which is also the first time I've ever used it. I've learned alot with trial and error and am on a pretty decent pace, until i ran out of plastic.

After looking up other's styrene scratch builds (of which I am completely blown away and using methods from several of you - thanks in advance!) it was recommended I pick up some polystyrene. I did and got a pretty decent size for about 1/3 the cost of sheets from my local hobby shop.

With the new plastic i did run into a problem tho: I'm using testors 3502 and 3501 cements but the test pieces don't seem to have the same holding power as the modeling styrene and come apart at the glue seams.

Is there a different cement I should be using?

thanks again for any advice

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PostPosted: February 13th, 2012, 4:25 pm 
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All styrene should be the same. My guess is that testors is inconsistent in its formula. I typically use Krazy Glue to actually glue the parts together then back the inside edges with testors 3501 cement to weld it together for strength. I've never had much luck with the testors brush on stuff.

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PostPosted: February 13th, 2012, 5:05 pm 
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You are probably going to need a lot of this stuff:
Image


That is the CA glue I used. I am still on the second bottle.

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PostPosted: February 15th, 2012, 11:58 am 
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CA's and Epoxies huh? that's what I was afraid of - BUT we do what we have to, right fellas?!

Went out and picked up some of the loctite stuff and going to test it tonight.
Image

I'll get to test it out tonight

thanks again for the input

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PostPosted: February 15th, 2012, 11:25 pm 
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Any 2-part epoxy will give you an overall better hold than modeling cement like Testors. Your best bet will probably be using something like Krazy Glue, then applying a solid bead of 2-part epoxy on the inside of the connection.
Something like this:
|<--styrene plate A
|
|o<--bead of epoxy
Styrene plate B-^

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PostPosted: March 1st, 2012, 11:53 am 
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So Krazy glue or any other type of CA then back that up with an epoxy? check!

wm6929 : are you using the brush to apply the epoxy? and briliant idea about the 1oz cups!

Tryael: what character is your avatar. Looks familiar but I'm having trouble placing it

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PostPosted: March 1st, 2012, 4:47 pm 
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It's just a piece of artwork a friend of mine found on the internet. Said he kept looking for character art for himself but could only find characters that reminded him of me, instead.
IIRC, the character's some narcoleptic vampire or somesuch. I just colored it and used it for many online boards since then. If you've ever been on the Belegarth forums, I use it there, too.

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Last edited by Tyrael on March 4th, 2012, 3:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: March 2nd, 2012, 11:38 pm 
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I've had good luck with Ambroid ProWeld.


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PostPosted: March 2nd, 2012, 11:44 pm 
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The plastic cement works pretty well for me. But it takes forever to set.. which is why I can see Jack recommending the super glue as well.

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PostPosted: March 2nd, 2012, 11:56 pm 
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Jc3394 wrote:
wm6929 : are you using the brush to apply the epoxy? and briliant idea about the 1oz cups!



Si.
I would use the CA to glue the boxes together. I would use the brushes to work the epoxy glue into the joints and corners. In some cases, I would glue balsa wood 1/4 x 1/4 rods on the inside for more strength.

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PostPosted: March 2nd, 2012, 11:58 pm 
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wm6929 wrote:
Jc3394 wrote:
wm6929 : are you using the brush to apply the epoxy? and briliant idea about the 1oz cups!



Si.
I would use the CA to glue the boxes together. I would use the brushes to work the epoxy glue into the joints and corners. In some cases, I would glue balsa wood 1/4 x 1/4 rods on the inside for more strength.


If you look in the plastic section at the hardware store, they make square plastic and L plastic that would be a good thing to use instead of balsa (which is very weak).

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PostPosted: March 3rd, 2012, 12:21 am 
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Sorry. I meant brasswood. I used it more as a gusset/frame/skeleton. I only used it inside the EDA and some parts of my spacer.
But AJ is correct.
If I had known earlier, the L plastic would have been a better way to go.

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PostPosted: April 19th, 2012, 2:28 pm 
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weldon works good for styrene. alot of guys on the r2 builders forum use it, i use it on almost everything styrene. it bonds pretty quickly, and you can put styrene scraps in a jar with it to make a paste, and fill seams. super strong when its cured and sands easily, most plastic suppliers sell it. just make sure you use it in a well ventilated area


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PostPosted: August 20th, 2012, 12:55 am 
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Absolutely number 16 weld on. Its thicker than the watery stuff so your seems dont have to be perfect. It actually fuses the plastics together and dries in minutes.

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