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#318828
Introduction
I've been a huge fan of Valve ever since downloading Half-Life: Uplink from a game demos website back in 1999, then running out to purchase the full game after saving up enough nickles and dimes. Since the release of Half-Life 2, I have been eying the Gravity Gun, and though I have put a lot of research into it I still feel there is too big of a gap between the player-view and world-view models to truly decipher it into a real-world prop and give it the due I think it deserves. I could always compromise on both models in effort to reach the middle ground, but with the graphics in each episode getting better as time went on, I thought it best to wait. Episode 2 had just been released with the Orange Box, so operating under the presumption that Episode 3 would be along in another year, possibly with a newly updated model for the Gravity Gun, I halted the build and put my research aside for another day. That was four years ago, and not a word on Episode 3 or Half-Life 3 since. Fortunately, the Orange Box came packaged with a new obsession: Portal.

It is hard to ignore the similarities between the Aperture Science Hand-held Portal Device (AKA Portal Gun) and the Gravity Gun; if you like one it's likely you enjoy the other. With the world-view and player-view models showing quite a bit of consistency I knew it wouldn't be too difficult finding that middle ground without huge compromises. Volpin's brilliant build came onto the scene a couple of years ago to show us it could be done and it could look fantastic, and I was getting antsy waiting for Episode/Half-Life 3, so late last summer I decided that diving into the Portal Gun seemed like the next best thing.

Diving might be too strong of a word; I certainly took my time. I spent from October till January going through screen shots, ripping models, checking measurements, researching materials, creating sketches, blueprints and planing my attack before I started building. It was importaint to me that if I took on the build I didn't just copy how others did it in the past, but came up with my own method that would hopefully stand out on its own. At Aperture we do all of our science from scratch. No hand holding!
I am pleased with the progress thus far, and hopefully we will see the end of it in the next month.

Pre-production
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Over the months I accumulated a binder of sketches, screen shots, and measurements before combining it all into a set of blue prints I had printed out at 1:1 scale to aid with the build.

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Lasers Make it Better
Since the Portal Gun is such a precision instrument, I decided to have a lot of the parts laser cut... and because laser cutting is super awesome and makes my life easier. I designed the parts in such a way that they practically snap together tongue-n-grove style. It cost a little more, but the company was kind enough to find ways to offer me discounts.
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Chamber
Since most of how this goes together is in my head, there was room for human error, so some parts did require a little modification to make work in the real world. The center piece shown here had to be chopped down.
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Using a 4" OD tube split down the middle to close up the bottom side of the chamber:
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Chamber Rails
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Chamber Head
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Figuring out how to make the chamber head took a bit of thought. The multiple layers created a bit of a challenge.

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It started off simple enough with my 4" and 3.25" pipe and a couple of laser cut spacer rings.

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It was once I got to this part that I realized I wasn't sure where to go from here.

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I thought perhaps I could achieve the desired results by layering on thin sheets of styrene with the vent patterns pre cut into them. I went as far as to have my buddy Adam rebuild it in 3D so I we could convert it to a Pepakura file to be printed, but I had doubts over how well I could clean up the inside walls once in place.

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The exorcise was not for nothing, though, as the Pep file created will help me space the vents evenly and in the right angle. I had initially believed all the parallel lines were on a single point perspective and met somewhere in space, but closer inspection reveals the further to the sides they go they follow more of a downward slant.

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I went back to the drawing board to figure this out. I thought that if I filled in the entire bottom area with putty that perhaps I could get my machinist friend to carve in the grove as illustrated above, then I could add the walls and fill in the gaps, but there was some debate over the structural integrity of the piece, if the putty could indeed be lathed, and if the piece as a whole could survive the process. In the end we decided not to tempt it, so I went to the wood shop with an idea.

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I thought if I matched the angle of the chamber head on my bandsaw, and made some sort of circle cutting rig, then I could cut out the rings and recreate the image sketched out above.

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The rig itself is just a 1/8" thick sheet of styrene with a notch for the blade and a screw for a center post. I haven't bothered to see if someone already manufactures a circle cutting rig (I am actually kind of new to power tools like this), but this got the job done well enough. The trick is to drill a hole through your piece then stick it through the center post on the rig and slowly rotate it against the blade.

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Here you can see the rings cut out of styrene and wood. The center wood ring slants down to a smaller diameter than the clear pipe, so I had to cut a segment out of the pipe to make it all fit just right.

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I had to make a throw away mold for the wood ring. Using ply wasn't the best idea. Through the course of the day I guess the temperature would change enough to cause the layers to expand and contract at all different rates. No matter how smooth it was on one day, it was a wrinkled cracked mess the next.

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The last step to achieve my illustration was to add a slight slant towards the inside of the smallest ring, and to smooth it all out.

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To make the outer layer I decided to use putty pressed into the void. Release was used as a barrier.

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The Pep pattern was used to stencil in the notches on the chamber head.

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The putty was divided up on the band saw and glued back into place.

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And several rounds of filler primer + sanding later.

Union
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With the chamber head done I could now join it with the rest of the chamber.

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Chamber Vents
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The Claw
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Rear Body
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The shape is pretty simple. Once the frame was together it was wrapped with a layer of plastic sign.
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Once it was completely wrapped I slushed some resin around the inside for added strength and then I trimmed the edges.
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Testing the rear plate to make sure it all fit together as planned.
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I am using Magic Sculpt putty here. It takes longer to harden than Apoxie Sculpt, but I kind of like that since it gives me more time to work.
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Testing the rear access cover. I had holes laser-cut to match a both larger and smaller drawer pullers. The smaller one is actually more accurate to the game model but may be uncomfortable to many and more difficult to find at your local hardware store.
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Shelling
Pepakura maker DungBeetle was gracious enough to allow me to use his pep file for this project. If I had to do it all over again, I'd probably work from scratch, but that isn't due in fault to his work but rather my inability to glue paper together correctly and have it keep an even shape.

I had to make braces in effort to even out the paper shells before filling the insides with resin.
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I will un-ugly this duckling, I swear!
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Braces were also built to hold the shells in the correct position relative to the rest of the device. This allowed me to fill in the areas between the shell and the device with putty to create a contour so that when casts are made the two pieces would slip right into place without having to fudge around with positioning.
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Machined
Jimbo7 from gbfans.com was kind enough to machine up these parts. Big thanks to him!
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At this point I had to focus on another project for a few weeks. I had planned to have the prototype completely built by the Portal 2 launch date, but unfortunately I could not make it.
#318834
Looking phenomenal!

The white 'shells' are the parts keeping me scared from really trying to build one of these for myself, so I'm very glad that you are tackling this properly.

Also, like the broken record that I am:

IN FOR ONE!
#321056
Truly remarkable craftsmanship!
#322214
The changes won't look like much, but boy was it time consuming.

First off, I added the notches on the back of the prong tips and then popped them into place.

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Ignore the clay, I just needed something temporary to hold everything in place.
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I then spent a great deal of time working on the rear shell. After adding the notch down the center I could tell the left side (from the player view) needed a little bulking up. It is likely you will not notice much of a difference from the previous photos, but it is there. Much more even now. You may notice I also added the slope inside of the light hole.

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Additionally, a bit of time was spent cleaning up the inside. You may notice the depth of thickness sharply changes towards the rear. This little slope is where the back of the rear body bumps up. It all fits like a glove.

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I just need to add the shapes towards the front where the hoses for the prongs exit from, then I'll be about done with the rear body. After that it's mostly just clean up work before molding, with the exception of something to go inside of the barrel when viewed from the front. Even in Portal 2 (at least for the Xbox), they haven't added anything for when a player looks up the barrel... I have an idea for that, something that I think will make fans of the game grin when they see it.

Also, I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas for the light on the top.
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It's roughly 5/8th inch in diameter, slightly bigger maybe, with a parallel pattern of lines running across the top. It would need to be clear so it could be lit with both colors. Any suggestions?
#322308
Could you use a bearing (like AJ's showed), with a cut of plexiglass or acrylic rod scored with the grooves? You can score plexiglass, and if its rough at all just hit it for a second or two with a heat gun to melt and smooth the scored out some.

I think this is one of the most amazing scratch built items I've ever seen. Why toys of the robots or toy/reproduction props were not made based off the game is beyond me. Neca seems big about aquiring licenses and doing figures and other items.. maybe show them what you are working on? They might be able to pay you for prototype developement, and sell a prop version. I know a lot of guys here would probably love thier own version of this!
#322464
TC, wonderful work as always. Prop makers like you make me want to learn more.
#323207
Holy shit ... how did I miss this? TC this has got to be the most amazing thing I've seen in a long while! Seriously fantastic work, man!
#326529
A few friends and myself set up a sci-fi themed First Friday art show coming up in a couple of days, so I decided to use that as my deadline to have everything built and molded, and the first one cast and together. I ended up having to make a few one-ups to get by, so I will have to go back and redo things properly at a later date. Being so occupied with finishing this, updates have been non-existent, but now that things are about done I've got little time to share, so onto the photos...

Molding
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I added a funnel to act as my pour spout for casting, and the peg lets out air flow as resin comes into the mold.

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Bondo/fiberglass resin mixture.

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Laying in the fiberglass.

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I am more proud of these mother molds than I am of anything else I have ever done. My past experiences with fiberglass had been of nightmares, but it just worked this time, something clicked. I feel accomplished.

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Cast
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The first raw cast of the front shell. I still haven't worked out the best processes completely yet, but for this cast I brushed on some resin, put the halves together and did a few layers of slush casting before filling the void with expanding foam. It is light and feels pretty strong.

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I placed the seam lines for the barrel mold in such a place that even if you half-assed cleaning them up they would still be obstructed from view by the front shell.

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For the finish I put in a few layers of satin black before wet sanding, then a few layers of matte clear coat and another round of wet sanding. For future builds I am going to attempt to get a hold of some really dark grey paint, which I think will be a better match to the game than straight black.

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Same process for the shells, just replace the black with white and gloss everything + wax.

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I hit up Dollar Tree to see if I could find some things for the detailing. The cooking rack and sunglasses will be used for the claws, the tube for the nail file will be used to glow the chamber, and the paint caps from the boat bank are for the lens on top of the Portal gun.

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Maybe I can find a jeweler or someone to help make these better for future builds.

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The cables have these plugs where they meet the claws. I made a few one-ups by putting nylon spacers on my drill bit and using it like a mini lathe.

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I initially planed to use the paint caps alone to make the top light, but I didn't like the little indention in the middle. I had some pieces left over from laser cutting so I recycled one of the light and used the caps as a bezel.

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A transparency was used to make the pattern.

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High-grit sandpaper on the nail file holder to make it cloudy.

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Barrel View
I didn't have time to do the inside of the barrel the way I really wanted to, this is sort of a quick and dirty representation of the direction I was going.
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Look familiar?

Once I get my switch for the lights done I will take photos of the finished piece.

Yep, and nightmare on elm street dream warriors.

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