View new posts | View your posts Rookie figure project

firehawc_69 · **Posted:** August 7th, 2012, 9:42 pm

Okay, this is kind of messed up: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GHOSTBUSTERS-MA ... 43b27d1872

CPU64 · **Posted:** August 7th, 2012, 9:56 pm

Wow, already?!?

Ashe_Darkthorne · **Posted:** August 7th, 2012, 10:13 pm

firehawc_69 wrote:

Okay, this is kind of messed up: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GHOSTBUSTERS-MA ... 43b27d1872

Yup have to agree but my question is why go into getting both items to turn around and sell them for less than what he/she paid? Anyway not my concern I can't wait for the tutorial so I can put the kit together. WAY TO GO CAPT!

joeghostbuster · **Posted:** August 7th, 2012, 10:24 pm

Wow. I can only assume it is someone who bought the Capts rookie kit, once they had it in their hands they saw how detailed it was and became overwhelmed before they even attempted it, so they decided to put it on ebay instead. because it doesnt make sense to buy a kit and immediately turn around and sell it, maybe they think that they are going to make a big profit - Capt prob has an idea of who it is, the auction says they are located in pennsylvania...

egie · **Posted:** August 7th, 2012, 10:45 pm

Thats just not right.

rahum · **Posted:** August 8th, 2012, 3:15 am

Very strange.
I mean, obviously they are allowed to do what they want with the kit, but, personally, I would want someone in OUR community to get the kit. Capt made these for us...

Just my opinion

CaptCyan · **Posted:** August 8th, 2012, 5:29 am

Hey Gang!

firehawc_69 wrote:

Okay, this is kind of messed up: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GHOSTBUSTERS-MA ... 43b27d1872

Yes it is, considering I'm not done making all of them yet.

Ashe_Darkthorne wrote:

Yup have to agree but my question is why go into getting both items to turn around and sell them for less than what he/she paid? Anyway not my concern I can't wait for the tutorial so I can put the kit together. WAY TO GO CAPT!

He'll have to break the $80.00 mark to see any profit. He would be better off building the Rook, then selling it.

joeghostbuster wrote:

Wow. I can only assume it is someone who bought the Capts rookie kit, once they had it in their hands they saw how detailed it was and became overwhelmed before they even attempted it, so they decided to put it on ebay instead. because it doesnt make sense to buy a kit and immediately turn around and sell it, maybe they think that they are going to make a big profit - Capt prob has an idea of who it is, the auction says they are located in pennsylvania...

If they were overwhelmed, they could have asked for a refund. I think it's more the "big profit". Anyway, we can all watch ebay and see what the "free market" is willing to pay for an unassembled Rookie figure. And yes I know exactly who it is, he doesn't post alot here but I know him from Matty.

egie wrote:

Thats just not right.

No it isn't, but the lesson here is: Every group has a Peck.

rahum wrote:

Very strange.
I mean, obviously they are allowed to do what they want with the kit, but, personally, I would want someone in OUR community to get the kit. Capt made these for us...

Just my opinion

My opinion too. Let's just drop this subject for now. You can keep an eye on the auction if you wish, but let's not bring it up on here, please.

AlTheRelic · **Posted:** August 8th, 2012, 9:48 am

Well, perhaps I am in rare company here but I don't see much wrong in the selling of the Rookie and the Proton pack upgrade kit. Again, this is just my thoughts on the matter.

EctoTrk · **Posted:** August 8th, 2012, 11:21 am

Just wanted to say that I just received my kit the other day and the work is nothing short of PERFECT/EXCELLENT and any other complementing term you can think of. Capt is also a superb seller with excellent and honest service. I am super happy I happened to get my hands on this kit. Looking forward to the tutorial!!!

joeghostbuster · **Posted:** August 8th, 2012, 12:53 pm

Ive been doing business with the Capt for several years, he is a gentleman and a scholar and Im proud to call him a friend

liverstealer82 · **Posted:** August 9th, 2012, 5:40 pm

I'm a lurker by nature. I never post. But while I respect everyone's right to do what they want with their own property, this just doesn't sit well with me.

Capt, much appreciation for all your work that went into these upgrade kits. I'm excited to put mine together! This kit and the ingenuity of others like you really make the Ghostbusters fan community all the more tight knit and fun to be a part of. I'm glad that this one blip on the radar of profiteering is the exception and not the norm.

Back underneath my rock.

Cheers to all!

joeghostbuster · **Posted:** August 9th, 2012, 7:23 pm

anyone have any progress pics? or is Capt going to start it off?

firehawc_69 · **Posted:** August 9th, 2012, 7:47 pm

I'm waiting for the tutorial.

egie · **Posted:** August 9th, 2012, 8:24 pm

firehawc_69 wrote:

I'm waiting for the tutorial.

Same here, no rush though Capt!

joeghostbuster · **Posted:** August 9th, 2012, 8:58 pm

oops. posted in the wrong thread.

CaptCyan · **Posted:** August 10th, 2012, 9:21 am

firehawc_69 wrote:

I'm waiting for the tutorial.

Me too!

The Tutorial will be in Green so you can pick it out from the rest of my babble. I'll try to be as complete as possible but that doesn't always happen, so please ask questions on any part that does not make sense.

I'm still making parts for the last few kits, but as there are only a few left to go, lets start!

First thing we will be doing is sanding. Let's gather together some stuff to get started. One item you will wish to have is some sort of shallow box. A Polish Beer Box works well, but a Shoe Box Lid would work better as it has sealed corners. The Box Lid is important because when sanding small pieces, they can sometimes slip away form you and dissapear on the floor (they bounce). The Lid will keep them contained and it will also save you from getting yelled at for spreading plastic dust all over the house.

Tools! Nothing fancy, everything here was purchased at the local Dollar Store. The 3-Way Nail Shining File (lower left) is the most important thing to have. If you can't find one at the Dollar Store, head out to your local Drug Store and spend the $3 or $4 dollars to get one.

As to the rest, a Snap Blade Knife (top), Straight Pin or a Wooden Tooth Pick and a cheap set of nail files (lower right). Different colors are different grits.

I suggest you do one bag at a time, keeping the parts with the bag so you don't get them mixed with the others. For the most part, the Cast Pieces were made in open back molds, some were filled better than others. The backs (shiney none detailed parts) that are poured Even or Concave should be fine as they are. Those with Bulging Backs need sanding.

Let's look at the Vacuum Trap Thing. While I've tried to keep the Flash (excess resin) to a minimum, some parts have more than others.

This one happend to have more than most. :shock:

You want to sand off all the Flash from the Cast Parts and make them as flat as possible. In this instance, a Course File would be the best choice.

Now you see why you want to use that stupid Box Lid. As you get down to where it should be, you may wish to change to a Lighter Grit File so you can better control how much you sand off.

Don't press down too hard, the Resin sands very easily. Rotate the part as you sand to avoid chewing off more from one side and making the back uneven. A few strokes back and forth, then turn and repeat.

Almost there, you want the backs to be as flat as possible, but stop sanding if you start to eat away at any of the sides. Do this to all the Cast Parts that need it.

All those Tube Parts will need some TLC too.

Use the Snap Blade to clean out the inside of the Tubes. Angle the Blade inside of the Tube and gently Rotate the Tube, knocking off all of the Burrs on the inside.

Big and Small, do them all. :lol:

Once the insides are clean, then it's the same thing as with the Cast Parts, sand for a stroke or 3 and then rotate the Tube to keep the ends as square as possible.

When doing the Small Tubes, you might wish to use the Toothpick (or Pin, but not as easy) to help with the sanding. It gives you more controll over the Small Tube and something to hold onto. The Toothpick is a much better choice as it sands away with the Tube, the Pin will hold it but you then have to sand around it.

The Tubes will be showing, for the most part, and you will want to make one end Super Smooth as it will be where either Wire or Tubing will be joined. So use that "Super Shining File" to smooth that end.

For those of you that want to take it to the next level, start sand ing the "super smooth end" at a 45 degree angle, rotating the Tube as you go. You can use the other tubes (or Toothpick) to help steady and hold it while you work.

The idea is to round off the outer edge and give them a sleeker, polished look where they join with the Wire/Tube. Again do this to only one end of the Tube as the other get glued into something and needs to .

How's that for a start?

GhstbstrLMLIII · **Posted:** August 10th, 2012, 9:30 am

Yay! Great start Capt. As someone who is new to this level of customization - the approach you've taken to the tutorial is much appreciated!! But as others have stated - no need to rush! While am excited to get this project underway - I know you've still got kits to finish up.

CaptCyan · **Posted:** August 10th, 2012, 10:21 am

Hey GhstbstrLMLIII!

I planned on starting 2 days ago, but that didn't happen. :lol:

As you are one of the self professed "newbies" to this kind O' stuff, I look to you for all things that need clarifying, so don't be afraid to ask questions.

brandanthecarpathian · **Posted:** August 10th, 2012, 4:28 pm

nice to see the tute getting underway now i know where a few hours of my weekend will be going.

ROOKIEgarcia22 · **Posted:** August 10th, 2012, 6:41 pm

Great to see the start of the tutorial i cant wait to start building! :-D

(But take your time i know you probably have alot of kits to finish. :lol:

) Also i had a question on the paint. I noticed that gamesworkshop no longer has the original line of paint. Is there other suitible paints we can use? Or do i just get the paint off of ebay.... cuz ive looked and havent had great luck. :sigh:

joeghostbuster · **Posted:** August 10th, 2012, 6:46 pm

you can find Citadel in comic book stores etc, that's what I use. they arent transparent jars with black tops anymore. its white plastic with a white plastic cap with the color on top.

ROOKIEgarcia22 · **Posted:** August 10th, 2012, 7:27 pm

Yeah i know what it looks like from searching it, but i thought it was all clear? I looked it up and found both the white topped bottles and the all clear bottles. But thanks for telling me where i can also get them. But sadly my local comic book store doesnt sell any paints and neither does my local hobby stores. Does your comic book store have a web site? If anyone else knows where else i can gets some citadel paints or any other suitable/similar paints online other than ebay let me know.

firehawc_69 · **Posted:** August 10th, 2012, 7:36 pm

ROOKIEgarcia22 wrote:

Great to see the start of the tutorial i cant wait to start building! :-D

(But take your time i know you probably have alot of kits to finish. :lol:

) Also i had a question on the paint. I noticed that gamesworkshop no longer has the original line of paint. Is there other suitible paints we can use? Or do i just get the paint off of ebay.... cuz ive looked and havent had great luck. :sigh:

This is a cross reference page for the old names to the new names, and even for other companies: http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint ... lity_Chart

ROOKIEgarcia22 · **Posted:** August 10th, 2012, 8:02 pm

Awesome!!

Thank you!! :-D

Thats just want i needed. Now its time to spend some money :roll:

CaptCyan · **Posted:** August 11th, 2012, 8:35 am

ROOKIEgarcia22 wrote:

Great to see the start of the tutorial i cant wait to start building! :-D

(But take your time i know you probably have alot of kits to finish. :lol:

) Also i had a question on the paint. I noticed that gamesworkshop no longer has the original line of paint. Is there other suitible paints we can use? Or do i just get the paint off of ebay.... cuz ive looked and havent had great luck. :sigh:

Hey Rook!

Guess it's been awhile since I've had to buy new paint. :shock:

According to a friend of mine, Citadel revamped their Painting System about 3 months ago. While they do have their own conversion chart from old to new, Firehawc's chart covers other Paint Makers as well. :nicejobyoudid:

I've used both Reaper and P3 Paints along with my first and fave, Citadel. All do a great job.

Unless you get a realy real good price on eBay, I'd still look around the local Game and Hobby Stores or order online:
http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catal ... ints-tools

Here are my "old" colors converted to "New"

For the Wires, I'm using your basic Blue, Yellow, Red and Green (Regal,Sunburst, Blood and Snot ).
Kantor Blue, Flash Gitz Yellow, Evil Sunz Scarlet and Warpstone Glow

For the Stand I'll use White, Black and Dark Red along with Red (Skull, Chaos and Scab).
White Scar, Abaddon Black and Khorne Red

For the Flashlight and the Rookie's Goggles I've picked an Olive Drab Green (Catachen). Yellow and black will be used for the Lifegard.
Castellan Green

As for the Thrower, Couplings and other Metal Parts I'm using any Metalic colors I happen to have. Silvers, Copper, Golds etc.
Leadbelcher, Ironbreaker, Runefang Steel (Silvers) Hashut Copper, Gehennen’s Gold

With their revamp, Citadel has added some interesting "technical paints" to their roster. The one I find most intriguing is the "filler paint".

Liquid Green Stuff is the ideal tool for filling in small gaps on a miniature. Because it is water soluble you can use a normal Citadel Paint Brush to apply it (just make sure you wash the brush afterwards). The Liquid Green Stuff will then set in place, filling the gap neatly and efficiently. It can also be filed using the Citadel Emery Boards for an even smoother finish.

Usually I use Zap-A-Gap hobby glue, not only to put stuff together, but as a filler. The Liquid Green Stuff sounds like it would do the same and being Green, as opposed to clear, it should be easier to see if the gaps were filled in or need more coats.

If my local Shop has it, I'll give it a try and maybe put it on the "needs" list

egie · **Posted:** August 11th, 2012, 2:32 pm

Im ready to start this upgrade, you guys can expect a start of a upgrade thread today!

CaptCyan · **Posted:** August 11th, 2012, 3:37 pm

You go Eeegs! Just be very careful with this next section.

Slice and dice time! But first, this message:

Blade Safety Tip! Always cut away from your body parts, never towards! One slip of the Blade and you’re spurting Blood all over your Custom Figure and writing back to me using nine and a half fingers typing, “You didn’t tell me I could cut myself”.

Some parts need to be removed from the Rookie, starting with the Crank Knob. I’m using the Large Snap Blade Knife here, but you may be better off with the Thinner Blade variety which would be easier to maneuver. Like in the picture, place the Blade as level as possible to the surface of the Crank Generator. The Blades are thin and do have some flex to them so it’s not as hard as it sounds.

Gently rock the Blade up and down in a seesaw motion to cut through the Crank Knob. It’s a Rubbery Plastic so it doesn’t need a lot of force to cut through. Don’t use a pulling or sawing motion as you will slice through too fast and not be able to control what you’re cutting. If you don’t get it in one slice, rotate the figure and try from a different angle. If some bits are left, go back and trim them. Better to slice away small sections than gouge out the Knob in one go.

Ion Arm is next. You want to take off just the End Plate with the 2 Bolts sticking out. Again, a seesaw motion, nice and slow. To level and smooth out your cut, you can sand it down with an emery board.

Or, if you feel twitchy about using the Snap Blade, in this instance you can sand down the End Plate.

When you’re done, it should look something like this.

The next slice is optional. If you like the Original PKE, then skip on ahead, otherwise let’s flip the Rookie over and cut the face off the PKE Meter. As you can see, my first slice didn’t get everything. I’ll rotate the figure and give it another go until it’s as flat as I can get it…

… then I’ll sand it down the rest of the way. Or, skip the Blade and you can sand the whole face off.

Now we move on to the Thrower. The tip gets cut off just below the Banjo Fitting. Keep this part for later as an option for use on the Thrower.

Then we remove the Adjuster Knob from the Clippard.

Next is the Heat Sink and Everything else on the right side to make room for the Extension Box.

Sand it flat so it looks like this.

Speaking of the Extension Box, this next bit is optional. Do it only if you intend to put the Gauge Decal inside the Ring on the Extension Box.

Cut the Ring off the Extension Box. Happens the same way as the Soft Plastic, nice and easy with a seesaw motion.

I think I did it in two cuts. As you see, there is a faint outline where the ring was. This is fine as it will aid in the placing of the Gauge Decal.

When done, you should have a small pile of bits, seen here on top of the Stand.

You could toss them...or hang onto them to add to some other figure, 'cause you never know when you could use a good Heat Sink.

joeghostbuster · **Posted:** August 11th, 2012, 5:11 pm

I have a big fat ziplock baggie of little pieces like that and from other various toys and figures. not sure what Im going to do with them though

egie · **Posted:** August 11th, 2012, 5:29 pm

Just finished all of this, about to start the thread.

Sent from my SGH-T759 using Ghostbusters Fans on Android

CaptCyan · **Posted:** August 12th, 2012, 3:11 pm

egie wrote:

Just finished all of this, about to start the thread.

And a good start it is! For those who don't know, my friend Eeegs here does not have the years of experience most of us have put into this hobby. He has graciously offered to make a thread of his handy work to show everyone how easy, or hard, this Rookie Kit is to build.

viewtopic.php?f=90&t=30894

I’m watching his thread to see what needs more explanation on my part. I’m hoping you will watch his thread as well and cheer him on. Maybe ask a question or two as he has “fresh eyes” on this whole customizing thing.

And you thought you were done with all the sanding? Let’s do a quick review. These are the Cast Parts that should have Flat Backs . They might already be flat or even concave, but if they bulge out a little, they need to be sanded flat.

Now these Cast Parts may have some Flash where the seam to the mold is. That seam needs to be sanded as smooth as possible to match the part’s curve.

The Thrower Grip and Gear Box Cover need even a little more special attention, the backs to these are grooved and may need to be opened a bit to fit properly.

You would do this by running the edge of the Emery Board all around the inside of the groove.

It should not take a lot of work to open them up, so sand a little and then check the piece to see if it fits. The Crank Box Cover will go here.

The Thrower Grip goes on the Rear Handle covering the existing one.

The last bit of sanding for this portion is the Tube on a Wire.

The ends of the Tube need to be rounded off, so start sanding at a 45 degree angle, rotating the Tube as you go. As the curve starts to take shape, increase the angle of the Emery Board to round off the end.

After you have the end roughed into shape, go over it a few times with the 3 in one Nail Board to give it a smooth finish.

Flip the Tube over and do the same to the other side. It should look like this when you are done.

All this boring prep work needs to be done to insure that the actual building of the figure will go as smooth as possible. The next few steps will be a bit more interesting as we get into some painting and decals.

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