View new posts | View your posts My Alkaline shell/first Proton Pack! MAJOR UPDATE 04/14

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Couple of things:

Do you recall which drill bits you used for the ion arm resistors and SMC elbows? I can't find that info for the life of me. Second, how did you modify Colin's booster tube to fit Alkaline's shell? I ended up destroying mine trying to seat it properly.

Josh: I ordered that shell from Alkaline. He's not producing shells right now, but you can give him your name to be on the wait list. Here's his sales thread:

viewtopic.php?f=31&t=17258

Kaga: I installed the ion arm resistors with 4-40 socket head cap screws, so I drilled and tapped using a 5/64" drill bit and, well, a 4-40 tap. For the big resistor, I drilled a hole that was almost 1/2" (I didn't have a drill bit that big, so I drilled a 3/8" hole and dremeled a bit) I then simply screwed it in without tapping (the soft resin allowed that)

I didn't use SMC elbows for my build (I've found some Legris elbows) but I believe that the thread is the same: 1/8-27. Tapping 1/8-27 threads is tricky, depending on the material anything between 11/32" and 3/8" might be necessary (what I mean is the harder the material, the bigger the hole should be)

As for the booster tube, well, therein lies a tale. When I got the tube I didn't had my shell yet, but I knew that John's shells were made with Stefan plans, and that the EPD slope was 50 degrees (or 130, depending on how you measure it) Problem is that Colin's booster tube was cut at 40 degrees (120) Since I don't have access to a circular saw or a band saw or anything that could help me recut it precisely, I measured the length necessary for both sides (if the angle is 50 degrees, the long side should be about 7 3/4", and the long side 9 3/4") Then I cut the tube with a hacksaw. Next I filed the damn thing until it was straight and even. Keep I mind that I did all this without my shell. Let's just say that when I received my shell the first thing I did was check out if my angle was right. And it was! But I'm with you 100%: it really was a long shot, and I was lucky NOT to destroy it utterly.

Fantastic information! This will be very useful when I try a new one.

One quick tip on the fittings. You need to look for "NPT" taps. They are slightly different and the standard for pipe threads.
In the one I use for the pack fittings, the numbers are: 1/8-27NPT And use a 21/64 drill bit.

Thanks for the info, Chris. I forgot to mention the "NPT" part. My tap is supposed to be a NPT, but I can't be sure because it was included in a big kit with a lot of taps. I'll have to check.

Small update for my build: since I got my injectors, I installed them yesterday and started putting on the tubing. My pack is on the home stretch now, I'm only waiting for my HGA and my GB1 ribbon cable.



The injectors, bolted on through the baseplate. They're way lighter than my first set of injectors, which were made from PVC with wood dowels inside. And they're way, way tougher.



The injector tubing, held in place at both ends with Clippard barbs. On the shell I used 10-32 brass inserts that Colin got me (pretty useful little piece of equipement) I then hid them with the boots. Tough as hell and accurate.



My almost completed pack! I'm glad to have installed the injectors, I couldn't help but think that it looked too thin without them.



Like I said, started to install the tubing. I plastic welded the 5/32" tubing in my elbows (since I have 1/4" Legris elbows) I started by sticking some 1/4" tubing in the elbow, cut it flush with its end, then glued the 5/32" tubing in the 1/4". The end in the Legris straight isn't glued however, because it goes straight through! I'll attach both of them together in the shell. Less permanent, more adjustable!



Last beauty shot of my pack. I wonder when I stopped calling it my shell and started calling it my pack?

Well that's impresive! Are the injectors metal too? Bet you're dying to wear it haha.

Both the injector tubes and the baseplate are aluminum, welded together by Chris. so if anyone tells me that my fake welding looks fake, joke's on them! Seriously, they're great, tough, and light. Love'em!

Yes I am, and I can't wait to bolt the shell on the motherboard, in my mind it's the exact moment when my pack will officially be "born". But I'll have to test my patience a little more, because there's a lot of work left... As you may have noticed, the thrower is strangely absent, and I still need to install the light kit. But the pack itself is almost done!

Thats really coming together nicely Filandrius! Color me green with envy!

Thanks for the kind words guys. At this point I can safely say that my build is a success, which was a big source or worry for me. After all a prop this complex and expensive isn't taken on lightly... My pack has been on my mind every day for at least the past 4 months, and it scared the hell out of me. I mean I won't yell "mission accomplished" just yet, but everything is going very well.

To help me wait for everything to arrive, here's a list of what I still need to do:

Replace some damaged labels, and install the missing ones
Install the HGA on the shell
Install the last Legris and Clippards elbows
Install the remaining red tubing and the beam line
Twist and install the ribbon cable
Put some white zip ties on the ribbon cable and the tubing
Install the crank knob (real or resin? Stay tuned! )

I also have to install the split loom which goes to the thrower. I already planned to use a 3/4" clear hose in the loom, which will be longer than the loom. I was thinking of screwing the hose on one of the motherboard L-brackets... It would be sturdy and the loom wouldn't move around too much. What do you guys think?

I like that the hose makes the loom seem less "floppy" but it somewhat limits the twisting factor of the hose. You have to make sure you secure it in the correct direction so it doesn't try to twist or kink when the gun is on the pack.

Looking sharp dude! Real nice stuff. I'm glad the injectors worked out so well for your pac... I mean baby. :3

Filandrius or CPU, maybe one of you two can help me from going insane - If I were to use PVC and wooden dowels to make my injectors, which size PVC should I use? I was originally told 1.25" which I made but are WAY too big. I've read of 1.00" but that looks too small. Any help would be WONDERFUL!

Actually, the Stephan's plans say that the injector tubes need to be 1.5 inch outer diameter. It might seem too large, but it really is the measurement that you need.
The pack here is using the 1.5 in injector tubes..
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_crvkdO4NxZ0/S ... G_4746.JPG

Sorry, even after so many years here, I still do not know how to post with pictures..

The closest PVC I could find with a 1.5" OD was 1.25" PVC which has a 1 5/8" OD. Here are my current raw injectors:

OK. Here's what I think. My old set of injectors were made from PVC too, probably the exact same size (1 5/8" OD) Then I ordered an aluminum base plate based on Stefan's plans. When I got it, I simply couldn't install the injectors on it properly, or at least how they're supposed to be installed on Stefan's plans; they were too big.

Then CPU made me some aluminum injectors, welded on the exact same base plate (for the record, it's 1/8" thick, 1 3/4" by 3 21/32") and... they were placed exactly like Stefan's plans. The size of the injectors? About 1 3/8" OD. That's probably much closer to the mark.

So yeah, there's a mistake on Stefan's plan. It wouldn't be the first, take for example the filler tubes (which according to his plans, are not the same length) Many people have updated measurements made from years of research which are, sadly, more accurate (take for example Namebrand, who came up with the measurement for the injectors baseplate that I mentioned earlier)

Oh and thanks for the compliment, Chris. My baby is in good hands with gifted propmakers such as you.

1" sch 40 PVC is about 1 3/8" OD if memory serves me correctly. I'll have to make a trip to Home Depot tomorrow. Good information, Filandrius.

I never measured that plate to any plans. I just eyeballed it while looking at the screen grabs from GB1 as reference, and made it the same size as I saw in the pictures :3
Stephan's plans has enough measurement mistakes that I felt more comfortable making it based on reference than from numbers.

My eyes are still pretty good ^_^

For your information Chris, I measured your injector baseplate and it's 1 3/4" by 3 11/16". You're off by a whole 1/32". And I installed it on my pack without checking. Damnation!

Seriously though, I'm impressed. You HAVE a good eye.

Hey guys! Well I've installed my split look on my pack yesterday, and I'd thought that I'd document my installation... Do a mini-tutorial of such. Let me know what you guys think!

What you need for the installation:
5' of 3/4" ID split loom
6' of 3/4" OD clear pvc tubing
2 short screws + nuts + washers (1/2" in length max)
Power drill with 5/32" and 17/64" drill bits
Motherboard with mounting brackets attached

OK! Let's do this, shall we?



First step: insert the PVC clear tubing in the split loom. It only needs to be sticking out of the loom for a couple of inches, a little more than the width of your mounting bracket.



I used some Philips head 8-32 screws that I had around. There's 2 of them, with nuts and washers.



Then you drill two holes on each side of the tapped hole on the right bottom mounting bracket. I drilled some 5/32" clearance holes for my 8-32 screws. The hole should be in approximate alignment with the central hole.



Then you drill the same holes in the short produting length of clear tubing. Don't forget the central hole! I drilled a 17/64" clearance hole for my 1/4-20 socket cap screw.



The result, ready to be installed on the bracket.



The modified PVC tubing, screwed on the bracket. As you can see the washers goes inside the tubing. That's where you understand how longer screws wouldn't work; you need to leave space for the shell!



Another shot of the installed tubing... As you can see my tubing is slit down the side, it greatly eases the installation and allows for the electronics to be inserted later as well.



And the end result with the shell dry-fitted. It's a clean setup, without any glue or anything. And it's tough enough that I can drag my whole pack around by pulling the loom. Speaking of which, the loom itself isn't attached to the PVC tubing, but I plan to put a couple of white zip ties on each end. That'll be plenty, the loom doesn't move around on the tubing.

That's all! Your loom is attached to your pack!

Great idea! I put pvc tube inside my loom too and it really adds weight and makes the loom hang just like the movie packs.

I bought a Dremel grinding stone at Home Depot tonight and it worked great for the cyclotron lights (holy fiberglass dust!). I have to ask how you managed to grind out the power cell light. The sides are almost flush with the opening and it's looks like it might be a problem. Also, I noticed that the bottom of your N-filter (when your pack in upside down) is super clean and smooth. How did you manage that?

You're telling me that the "walls" of the power cell are thick enough to be almost flush with the opening of the lights window? Or maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're explaining to me...

As for the "bottom" of the N-filter, I had nothing to do with that, it came that way. John did this to drill the N-filter holes. The bottom was probably filled with excess fiberglass...

Yep. It's not a 90 degree angle by any means, but it's a pretty thick wall on the top side with almost no ledge.



And the bottom of my N-filter wasn't clean and smooth like yours is. It was and still is very uneven at the bottom and around some of the holes (even after I spent a good amount of time cleaning it out).



My shell was number seven on the final run. I can't blame John for wanting to get these things done with, but it kind of appears that the N-filters may have originally been cleaned out for people. Not a huge deal and I'll have to make it work.

It's obvious that if the lens doesn't fit in the hole as if, you're in for a whole lot of grinding. My lens did fit in the hole, it's just that the shell was too thick. I could've just drop the lens in and glue it, if I'd wanted to.

As for the N-Filter, the bottom was clean as a whistle. I suspect that the fiberglass was so thick that the holes couldn't be drilled; they wouldn't have gone through. So John had to clean the bottom. Yours doesn't look like it, it's hollow. So he left it as is.

Sorry for the lack of updates, boys and girls. It's the waiting game for the remaining parts of my build. And while I'm waiting for everything to arrive, I've resumed my research for more accurate and/or better parts.

As of this moment I've secured a genuine Raytheon crank knob, I've found some Legris 4mm straights to replace my 1/4" (still missing some 4mm elbows, folks! Help if you can ) and I've found some (pretty hard to find) 1/8-27 NPT nuts for the Legris fittings that are screwed onto the shell. Fiberglass being what it is, my tapped holes are flimsly at best, even with a ton of Teflon tape. So nuts on the inside will solve that particular problem! I'll post pictures when I get them.

Great job!!!

Pics of my completed GB1 Ion Arm, for shits and giggles. Forgot to post'em.





Did I mention that I have nothing to do while I'm waiting for my parts?

hmmm sweet sweet perfection

Darn it Nick, you're making me blush.

I need to upgrade to a real copper rod for my ion arm someday...

I don't know what's so attractive about copper. I love the stuff. I mean brass looks too plain, somehow. And it's accurate. Win-win!

Minor update: I've received my Bobamatt vinyls and genuine Legris straights (both courtesy of Nick-a-tron) and I've installed them. I originally bought them to complete the labels that I've originaly installed, but I was so flabbergasted by the quality that I've replaced them all. These things are worth their weight in gold (well they don't weight that much but... you know what I mean )

And you know what that means, don't you? Pictures!



My pack has finally a full set of GB1 accurate labels! Yippee!



Well except for the "Caution" foil label on the spacer. I like that thing, sue me.



Bobamatt's labels are so professional looking it's not even funny. They're thin yet strong, and there's not a single trace of pixelisation or printing pattern. Great stuff.



I also replaced the big "Danger" label on the motherboard, but you can't really see it. Oh well.



Some close-ups. It never gets old, taking pictures of the cyclotron. I think it's my favorite feature on the pack.



A different angle... I thought I'd show you the nice machined aluminum spacer that I've used beneath the bumper. Love those!



The top of the pack, showing Bobamatt's beautiful foil label.



Last but not least, my Legris 4mm straights. Thanks Nick!

That's it for now! I'm still waiting for a whole lot of stuff in the mail. Stay tuned!