View new posts | View your posts Sound Board DIY (GBFans Chip, Replica Props, Crix, etc)

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Why not just order this one
http://www.canakit.com/5w-audio-amplifi ... uk153.html

Ah, thank Christ for Canada. Thanks heaps Rob.

Same place I did on the last two packs One under the booster tube (Shallowest part being 2.5"), and then the second in the cyclotron (deeper than in the flat part under the booster tube). In addition, I also enclose the battery in the shell itself. I'd much rather have it there than outside of the shell as some others tend to place it. This also means that the deepest part of the shell also has the battery, and requires the placement of the speaker just above the cyclotron.

The part under the booster tube is 3" thick, but the internal depth is 2.5" in that region. I just took the ruler out to measure it again.

Alternatively, I could place it under the crank knob where the shell is at minimum 3" deep, but I would like the sound between the packs to remain relatively the same.

Can someone walk me through the Exoray Deluxe Light Kit mod for the RP sound kit? I don't want to F this up! Thanks!

The biggest question is which switch for lights are you going to use to activate the sound? This will determine if you need a DPDT or 3PDT switch.

Here's an alternate set of speakers that Matt recently found

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-st ... HM//1.html

Thanks Vince.

So what I am gathering from this is any place you intend to have sound linked to a switch that also activates lights (on an Exo kit) you will need to run a 3 pole rather than a dual? I am about to tackle this project as well and electronics are NOT my area of expertise.

That depends on which switch, the bottom or top one on the thrower. The top one (that turns on the pack lights) requires a 3PDT, the bottom that turns on the gun lights requires at DPDT if using that, it's up to the user. I think I am going to wire my Exoray kit using the bottom switch (the startup sound is honestly a user preference when it turns on).




That was my post in an earlier thread. I had contacted Exoray myself last year on this matter (without having one of his kits to look at since his website was confusing on what did what) and looking at my Exoray kit now I see one of the switches is already DPDT that's why you need 3PDT if you use that switch.

I should have my Exoray kit wired up this weekend with the 4M chip (I wanted the theme song).

Basically, any switch you need to replace, you up the number of poles by 1. So if its a SPDT switch, you upgrade to DPDT. If its already ad DPDT switch on your light kit (i.e. like on an Exoray light kit) then you upgrade to 3PDT switch.

It makes complete sense now guys. Thank you much.

I could still use this diagram if I am not having lights attached to the sounds?

You are referring to the diagram that comes with the sound board from me? Of course. The only thing that changes is the switches going from single pole to dual pole, the wiring of everything is the same, and if you go with dual pole switches then the lights can still be added later. with out having to change anything.

Thanks Rob!! I appreciate all the help!!

Update:

Rob, your sound chip is easy to hook up. Took me about a half hour to get it working. Was wondering if I should have bought DPDT Toggle Switch - Center Off instead. What is your advice Rob?

Oh and my friend gave me his old Kenwood Power Amplifier from his car. Can I use this? If so, it is 80w x2 or 180w bridged. There is ground, battery, and P. Con clamps. There is an Input Intensity Knob going from Min 1, 0.5, 0.3, Max.

Operation slide switch from Stereo to Mono. There is also 2 sets of screws labeled Mono and GND. It only weighs about 5-7 lbs. Any advice you can give would be appreciated. I want this to be kinda loud. He he.

Mad kudos to the quality of your chip, Very easy to get working!!

Why would you want a center off for the pack start? (I'm assuming that's what it is for). Considering the switch is either flipped up or down in all light kits.

As for the amp, does it accept powered sources? The sound chip outputs 0.5W. Matt tried larger amp than the 7A, and it didn't work well at all. That's why we've been using the 7A for this kit.

Ya, I would stick with the 7w amp, it weighs less that a few ounces and everyone has been having good results. The on-off-on style switch will just give you a extra step, stick with the on-on switch since the lower throw is not used on the lights

Coolio. Will do. Thanks guys.

http://www.amazon.com/Velleman-Mono-Aud ... B0002Z82YY

Just ordered it from Amazon. Will this one work? It'll be here by next Friday. Assembled, took the other one back to Fry's

You can try it. The one Matt lists in his original post works fine with the sound module.


I'm just waiting to re-assemble my pack now after spending some time last night and today wiring up the sound kit.

My pack as the Exoray Pack and Gun kits. For some reason, his switches use around a 26 to 28 gauge stranded wire, quite annoying to work with. I am glad I did the bottom gun switch versus the top which also turns on the pack lights, 4 of the wires were bad enough to work with, 6 would've drove me nuts.

However, the Replica Props chip is working great for me with an Exoray light kit! It takes time to wire in, solder and everything, but I couldn't wait on Exoray to get his out. I might replace the Replica Props with his if his still has customizable sounds, not sure though, may save that for pack #2.

I am going to cancel the Amp I ordered off Amazon and purchase the one Rob recommended.

They're around the same price so might as well use the one in the original post.

Yea, I went ahead and sent a cancel request for the 1st amp and ordered the one Rob recommended. Should be here by Friday.

I am just curious, do you not have lights or rather the sound be completely separate from the lights? It's interesting to see everyone's setup.

My lights are Walmart Halloween lights, they flash, but do not cycle like the movie, The Powercell lights are a flashing jogging stick. Not accurate, but cool enough. The sound will not be connected to the lights this year. Got laid off, so I am doing this as cheaply as I can.

And this is with an Exoray light kit!

Finally got my sound to work..I'm a complete dumbA** I was trying to to do without turning on my pack..anyways Got that amp and connected an old stereo speaker to it flicked the switch, and scared the crap out of my two German shepherds and damn near fell out of the chair that little amp cranks!! gotta take apart the pacxk tomorrow and set it up

Martog, nice video! And cowbybill, glad you figure it out.

Okay, I think I've got this pretty much figured out, I just have a few questions.

1. I'm using the 4m board with the theme on it, but I'm sorta stumped on how to wire the switch for it. I'm using a SPST right now and I was going to put on the back of the pack so I can activate the sound without having to un-holster my thrower. When I flip the switch up, the theme starts. When I flip it down, the sound keeps playing.
I assume I'm going to have to replace the SPST with a DPST, but where do I wire the "down" position of the switch? One of the empty pegs with nothing programed onto it? I've never done this type of thing so any info would be awesome.

2. What is the best way to wire two speakers up to the amp? Again, I've never done anything like this before and I wasn't sure if the way I was thinking of doing it was "safe". Do I just run wire from the amp to speaker #1 and then from speaker #1 to speaker #2? I'm not sure if this will result in any signal loss from the amp is why I'm asking.

Again, any info would be greatly appreciated!

In order to stop the song from playing another sound needs to play. The best way to do it is to run it to a dpdt and put the second throw on a different sound. You could put it on one of the alternate shut down or on sounds. If that bothers you and you want the song to stop playing when the switch is released, then send me back the chip and Ill reprogram the song to stop playing when the switch is released. That what you dont have to activate another sound, you just flip the switch off.

To answer your question about using 2 speakers here is an answer from another post I made.

Since the requirement is 8ohm you need to look at the chart
Image


If you wire 2 8ohm speakers in Series you end up with 16ohm
If you wire 2 8ohm speakers in parallel you end up with 4ohm

So using 2 speakers with the sound module you either want to
1. wire 2 4ohm speakers in series to get to 8ohm
or
2. wire 2 16ohm speakers in parallel to get to 8ohm

here is a good read on this subject http://www.aqdi.com/speakerz.htm