View new posts | View your posts Filandrius' Particle Thrower - MAJOR UPDATE 03/14

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I'm not really sure if the rivets were used in both movies or not. Maybe someone else knows? One thing to keep in mind though is that I'm pretty sure the rivets would have originally been painted black to blend in with the grip. The paint probably wore off during filming. To my knowledge that proton pack shot that I posted was taken after the movies were filmed so it would make sense that they're visible. What do you think?

It's a distinct possibility. They were really, really careful about the details and all that with the props before filming for GB1 began... Then came GB2 and they butchered the props, never really restoring the damage done while filming and modifying them beyond recognition. I can picture a prop maker being pressured by a suit to just "replace the rivets, don't bother painting them" or something like that. Money before art.

OK enough sentimental nonsense. I think I found alternative to the rivets (the thing I dislike the most about them is how permanent they are; I don't want to have to drill my rivets every time I remove the gun from the loom) So now my grips are installed (both of them) Don't worry folks, I didn't use tape. Here's how I did it:



First the front grip. What I did is follow Vince's suggestion and drill a small hole all the way through the ear, straight into the grip. Looks easy but it wasn't. Then I inserted a small black rod that I had around. On the picture it isn't inserted completely; I'll have to remove the grip when I get the lights and the popping mechanism.



The back of the front grip. As you can see the bolt goes straight into the grip. The hole is tapped and everything. With both the screw and the rod, that thing won't move a millimeter (I know, I tried)



Just for the heck of it, a picture with the same angle than the picture Vince posted. I like recreating reference photos.



Then came the rear grip. Since I was already using a 8-32 socket screw to secure the split loom, I chose to mount the grip with another 8-32 bolt. I drilled all the way through the grip at both spots, and drilled with a bigger bit to countersink the bolts' heads. That way it really looks like they're 2 painted rivets on there. Another advantage is the way I drilled the holes, I can remove the back screw without removing the grip. Easier to remove the split loom that way.

So here it is. Grips are installed, screen-accurately. What do you guys think?

Awesome!

dude, your thrower is insane in the membrane.

FLAWLESS VICTORY!!!

Very very nice! Chock full of win!

He he he... Thanks guys.

I kinda knew with Filandrius doing this assembly it would be awesome, but nothing prepared me for how truly stunning this is.

You, sir, are too nice. Please stop immediately.

Mike is a man's man! Did you know that they are going to replace the Brawny paper towel guy with a picture of Mike?

You know that I had to look that up? And now I know that you may be exaggerating.

Here's a pic of my 95% completed thrower hanging from my 95% completed pack (I like saying 95%)

Small update: partially inspired by Chris' pack, here's another unplanned upgrade.



I revised my gun track setup; I replaced the Phillips screws with the correct flat head hex screws, stripped the paint from the S-hook washer, and I corrected the S-hook position. Also, since the correct screws weren't sitting flush with Jason's V-hook, I had to modify the holes and the countersink. I hit a snag when the result weren't to my taste, so I had to do a little creative sculpting with my Dremel... I really like how it came out.

EDIT: Almost forgot; I also stripped the paint from the fourth gun knob (the one that holds the green lever) Looked wrong somehow. Nick was right!

Beautiful! Great work Mike!

Hey Mike, I like the modification. I could be wrong, but it looks like you used 8-32 flat socket caps on the v-hook, I believe the screen packs used 6-32 flat socket caps.

No, they're 6-32... It's the other two screws that are 8-32. I know, I know, they should be 10-32... Jason uses 8-32 on his gun track. For now they'll do.

And thanks for the kind words, guys.

No you are correct I meant the screws in the V-hook hard to tell in the angle, they looked like 8-32 flat hex screws but since they are 6-32 your good. Jason uses the correct size socket caps in the discs which are 8-32 so it looks like your good to go. The 6 bottom plate screws are 6-32 as well, for reference.

Okeydokey! I almost modified my gun track to install 10-32 screws, you minx. However, I can't do anything for the base plate screws... Everybody uses 10-32 screws, so that's what Chris used when he made my gun box. Unfortunately, it's possible to re-tap for bigger screws in metal, but not for smaller... It's an inaccuracy I'll have to live with. There's a few of them on my metal thrower, especially screws; like the 10-32 screws in the barrel knob, and the 8-32 in the barrel lock. I replaced all the inaccurate screws that I could, but for those I can't do anything... At least all the screws on my pack are accurate.

Now people (indirectly) tell me the base plate screws are 6-32?
Is there an updated list of the correct screws here?

That's exactly what I'm trying to find out. I didn't know before, or I would've told you.

So we know that the base plate screws are 6-32 (mine are 10-24) Also, the barrel lock is supposed to be a 6-32 (mine's a 8-32) and the screws with the brass washers are supposed to be 8-32 (mine are 10-32) Here's what I don't know or aren't sure: what are the screws on the trigger box? Mine are 4-40... And the screws on the rear instrument bar, are those supposed to be 8-32, like mine? Thanks!

I was told that the base screws were 10-32 as well. *cough*Mike*cough*

A guide would be MOST helpful!



I think my head is going to explode.......

Well that's what I was told! I will not be held responsible! I will not! I did not hit her! I did NOOOT.

Oh hai Mark!

Heres a breakdown if I missed anything someone please chime in

Baseplate 6-32-socket cap screws
Guntrack discs 8-32-socket cap screws
V-hook- 6-32-flat socket cap screws
Barrel lock 6-32-socket cap screw
The two GB1 style brass washer spacers- 6-32 socket cap screws
Rear instrument bar 6-32-socket cap screws
Top gun knob #4- socket cap screw

Sweet list Chris!

How about the back of the trigger box?

What about the trigger box access panel? And the screw between the two side knobs?

I'm 2 in 7. Not bad.

I have in my notes that the screw between the side discs is 6-32. These notes are from a few months ago and I can't recall where I found this information or if it's correct.

Not necessarily . . .


(sorry the picture sucks)

Just get the plumber's epoxy putty for metal. Fill in behind the wholes in the gun that are already there and tapped. Let the putty set, then redrill and tap the putty through the existing holes. That's what I did.

The screw inbetween the side knobs is 8-32, and to my knowledge the trigger boxes on the hero guns were not open on the back nor did they have a bottom plate but were hollow and were open on the side facing the green lever to allow electronics as you can see on this hero wand,

The wands that had bottom plates on the trigger boxes were the semi hero wands as seen here and I believe they had #4 or 6-32 button head socket cap screws to mount

Invaluable info, guys. Thanks a whole lot. I corrected the side screw (mine was 10-32) pretty easily, just added a nut. For the rest, well... Maybe I'll try Matt's method for the base plate's screws. And my trigger box has an access panel, so I'm stuck with it!

I am ok with the sizes for the screws but I'll have to insist in using 24 threads instead of 32. It would be much easier to strip a fine thread on thin aluminum. I can do 32, but the user would have to be very careful not to over tighten these screws.

That or I might have to bump up construction to a separate bottom "lip" made with 1/8" plate just for threads, and welded all the way around the gun box.
If only there was a way to see an open [hero] thrower. In the picture above, of the resin thrower, it does look like there's a separate plate welded at the corners. In between the box and the removable plate..
But its hard to get a good close up of the bottom of the metal gun.

Yeah, Chris has a good point (no, not Chris, Chris ) my gun box is made from 1/16" aluminum. Even if I patch the holes with plumber's putty, there's no way it'll hold a 6-32 thread. I think I'll keep my 10-24 bolts.