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PostPosted: February 23rd, 2011, 7:46 pm 
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So, here I am pack #7 under my belt 2010. I see that people are printing Stefan's plans 1:1 scale using printer settings and voodoo magic to turn his dimensions into coherent measurements you can do with a tape measure in your back yard or dorm room. I'm unemployed and I need something to keep from going crazy, so I set off to do the same thing.
I had some really neat ideas to setting up how to make his crazy plans make sense after they were printed, but after tracing them for a third time, I set out to do them in AUTO CAD. why not? I was learning it at the time, probably the same as Stefan was when he made his own, and I'm really familiar with a proton pack so it seemed like a pretty good idea at the time. I have those plans, I won't be releasing them unless I'm absolutely begged because really, they're like Stefan's, you can tell they were made from someone fairly new to the program.

Life happened and I abandoned that project(another reason why I won't be releasing them). I got busy with school. FORTUNATELY I started a SOLIDWORKS class, which is a CAD program like AUTOCAD, but way cooler. In the mean time, creatively I was busy with my Rocketeer project(that's a link). I needed a helmet because my original bucket wasn't working. I had heard about this new type of prop making called Pepakura where you take a 3d model, transfer it into a Pepakura program(I'll link you, relax) and unfold it, THEN cut intricate shapes from pieces of paper, fold them intricately, glue tabs together, then resin and bondo and sand until it finally gets to your shape.

While I'm scaling and rescaling my Rocketeer helmet, which by the way for you who will be new to this whole Pepakura process I'll be walking you through, is something that is a major problem with me and the Pepakura modeling community(I can't understand why, since they're already MODELING SOMETHING why they just can't do it 1:1 scale, not to worry, my pep files and solid works file are indeed 1:1 you just click print or toss it into your CNC's programs). They do a really shitty job of scaling. sometimes it seems like modelers don't even bother with researching the actual piece they model, I found this thread by Nicholszz, who speaks in haiku
viewtopic.php?p=233349#p233349

It's a thread about making a Pepakura proton pack. That just blew my mind. The gun was wrong and after looking further into the Pepakura proton pack that existed at the time, I found that it's just an awful "shrugged off" made prop, like certain "budget" packs that cost more to repair than actually make that float around here. I also noticed the modeler made pipes and tubes, which will never come out right in the end, where the person using the paper files could have just used pipes instead.

So, now I knew it was possible to MAKE a Pepakura proton pack, just not HOW. After much pestering various Pepakura modelers, I learned you needed a 3d modeling program like RHINO 3d or 3d Studio Max. Honestly, that crap is way over my head. It took downloading Rhino 3d, for me to find out that I can unfold a .stl file in Pepakura designer, and you can save a 3d model in the drafting program I was kicking ass at called SOLID WORKS.

The great thing about SOLIDWORKS is you can transfer the file to AUTOCAD, throw it into CNC's, make a cake, it might even walk your dog. I have to warn you ahead of time, the SOLIDWORKS files I have, I didn't make them to print out and build from, as they stand now they're good to input in a CNC program, which is why everyone asks for AUTOCAD files. I can transfer them to a coherent build plan set later, but I am completely swamped with other things right now, badgering me to do it will only piss me off and prolong me not doing it. HOWEVER, you can print the Pepakura proton pack files out, without changing the scale, and clicking PRINT, and they're 1:1.

With THAT in mind, I thought "I want a game pack. I've made the same pack 7 different times, I'm getting sick of it using the same plans. I want another pack, I want it accurate, I don't have any money. My girlfriend wants one too. I don't want to do a strenuous amount of work. How can I make it?"

Now we're full circle, if you were keeping up. After a month of modeling a regular proton pack in SOLIDWORKS and PEPAKURA FILES, which I will be releasing, FOR FREE, WITH OUT ISSUE AT THE END OF THIS FIRST POST. It took a lot of sleepless nights, a lot of time in between classes, a lot of pestering a lot of the right people with "Does this look right?" "What's this measurement" "Is it ok if I add in those special measurements?" To you fellas, Thank you so much.

TL ;DRHere is a picture of the 3d complete pack, and the gunbox assembly.
Image
Image

For the purposes of this thread, after the initial release of files, it will be a Pepakura Proton Pack Production thread.

FOR A PEPAKURA ANYTHING, YOU WILL NEED
Pepakura viewer http://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/d ... iewer.html
You need that to VIEW and print your .pdo pepakura files. Unlike damn near every other Pepakura file, the ones I'm giving you, you just click that print button, and it better be on cardstock.

THE CONTENTS OF THE FOLLOWING PHOTOS
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The photo above illustrates what you will need before you really start to get messy with Pepakura.
TOOLS;
Scissors
Xacto Knife
Utility Knife/Work Knife/Carpet Knife/ Box Cutter
SuperGlue - Get some good stuff. Not crap.
Ball Point Pen - You will use this for perforating mountain and valley folds, some people use two different colors, i use a dead one and just prefold all of them.
Ruler - This helps with folding and perforating lines, I use a Drafting Ruler because it gives me something to grab on when holding down, other people use a metal one for folding, but the drafting one works either way. you dont want to use a soft wood ruler, it needs to be sturdy.
CARDSTOCK. Let me say that again CARD STOCK. bold CARD STOCK. 110 lb, as thick as you possibly can get. If you use copy paper, you've just wasted a bunch of paper, and a bunch of time which defeats the purpose of this build entirely. You lose! Find a "budget pack" elsewhere! Seriously. My first mistake was using copy paper on an unrelated project that ended up in the garbage, I dont want all our hard work on this project for nothing kid. It's 5 bucks at walmart, splurge.
Aluminum Air Conditioning Duct Tape - This stuff is a GODSEND. Id attempted three different times with this project before I was comfortable enough to share it, my Proton Pack parts kept caving in when I painted on the resin, then DENTARTHURDENT told me about this stuff, and 15 bucks later? I'm sleeping better at night. Worth EVERY penny. BUY IT FROM HOME DEPOT and thank me later.

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING WHEN YOU START TO RESIN
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FIBERGLASS RESIN Just about any kind will do, I get this because it's 12 bucks at walmart and in the automotive department.
PAINT BRUSHES. - Not kidding, you are going to need alot. I get a bag of these chip brushes at homedepot for 10 bucks. For those of you new to the concept of Fiberglassing, you need paintbrushes to brush the resin onto the matting of your choice.
MAT - Get chop mat. I didnt get a picture of this, because its itchy and I didnt want it all over my bed. GET CHOP MAT. not fabric.
RUBBER/VINYL GLOVES - You dont want this crap on your hands. invest in a 10 dollar box at walmart, thank me later.
Bondo - 10 bucks. walmart. next to the resin. for filling you may be doing later. something good to invest in for other projects FOR SURE.
Shop towels - On the resin in the picture. 10 dollar box at harbor freight (keep in mind, I'm making this a fairly accessible project for you, I use these all the time. They're optional for this, but if you're always up to no good around tools, these are great.)
Mod Podge - I know I'll be using this to fill my mdf motherboard when I get around to it. I could probably use a thin coat of left over fiberglass resin, but where's the fun in that? its not neccessary, but it may come in handy for you.

Now, here's the ADD TL:DR short version of making a Pepakura prop.
I dont recommend you doing this fast at all, because it will look like garbage. An example of judging scope, after I finished getting the correct scale for my Rocketeer helmet, it took 2 months to get it ready to bondo. I'm 3 tries into this, with two packs the build I am sharing now, I've held my breath on every step.

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This picture shows that i have all of the Pepakura files printed and sorted.

Image
An idea how thick it will be after everything is printed. It's roughly 79 pages if my math is right, but dont let that discourage you, you were supposed to buy a REAM OF CARDSTOCK FOR 5 DOLLARS AT WALMART. Use what's left when you're absolutely finished with this project for printing resumes, assuming you're unemployed like I am.

Image
This picture illustrates all the pieces are cut and folded out for the PPDBOX1 file. Now, mind (pay attention) to every tab and every fold. It's detrimental to getting your piece to work correctly.

Image
This illustrates the Aluminum Air Conditioning Duct tape on the inside of the pieces for the PPDBOX1 file. Now, the easiest way to go about this, since you're already trailblazing through this like I told you not to, is prefold everything and apply the tape flat. Then REFOLD everything again. make sure NOT to cover your tabs, but leave them open. that way they bend easier to conform to the shape they're required to do.

Image
Image
These show it put together, waiting to be resined on the outside.

Image
This is what the IONARM and the PPDBOX2 look like after they have had all of the above steps done, and a layer of Resin on the outside. When you do this, you want a nice thin layer of resin on the outside, and then on the inside you want Resin, Mat, Resin, Mat, Resin. If you don't think that's enough, which you're right, do another couple more layers.

Also, looking at my files, you'll notice I didnt have pipes and tubes and round shaped objects you can fashion out of piping modeled. Google the outer diameters from Stefan's plans with the exception of the PPDBOX which is 2.75 for the pipes for you to purchase, and they will fit where they belong. Seriously, an afternoon with a hack saw or a pipe cutter and you're set.


"PEPAKURA PROTON PACK FILES"
http://www.4shared.com/rar/MhT5EYGx/PEPAKURA_PROTON_PACK.html

DONT FORGET, to read the Pepakura files, you need to download from here http://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/d ... iewer.html


Last edited by ProtonCharger on February 23rd, 2011, 9:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: February 23rd, 2011, 8:39 pm 
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The most vital information I can add to this post is this: You're going to get what you put in to it. If you don't take your time with the cuts, folds, even gluing then there's a good chance something is going to get mucked up along the way. And I don't suppose we'll be entertained by simple questions covered elsewhere.

With that said, I am in the process of a build thread that I was hoping to post alongside of ProtonCharger's files, but patience has persevered and I am taking my time getting it put together. I look forward to future builds!

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PostPosted: February 23rd, 2011, 8:40 pm 
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This is going to be a really neat build. Totally keeping an eye on this one.

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PostPosted: February 23rd, 2011, 10:18 pm 
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NIIIIIICE! I'd like to play around with this soon. Looking forward to more photography.

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PostPosted: February 23rd, 2011, 10:52 pm 
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FREAKING AWESOME!
:crunch:
Thanks for sending me the link!

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PostPosted: February 23rd, 2011, 10:58 pm 
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I think it would be awesome if I could get some card stock and throw this together using my vinyl cutter.

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PostPosted: February 23rd, 2011, 11:01 pm 
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You won't aj!

Actually, that is a very viable option to those with the resource. If you do do it aj please post pictures

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PostPosted: February 23rd, 2011, 11:32 pm 
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Wicked stuff Proton Charger. I still haven't started on my FIRST pack... (groans)... even though I have about 80% of the parts.

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PostPosted: February 23rd, 2011, 11:46 pm 
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AJ Quick wrote:
I think it would be awesome if I could get some card stock and throw this together using my vinyl cutter.


There are people that have some kind of printer that prints these types of files out that also perforates all the lines and cuts all the pieces out, but they are expensive. If its a vinyl cutter, awesome, they've never actually explained what kind of printer they're using.

Really getting ANY kind of information that makes sense you can use from Pepakura modelers, in my experience, is like pulling teeth while standing on a basketball. So, one goal with this thread is I'm going to walk through the process for EVERY PART in these files, from start to finish, and try to use tools that everyone has.

As for questions, up front; I would be more inclined to help with a question pertaining to the program ( I'm also learning the program and would also benefit from the answer if I cant answer it for you) or a way I approached a part being worked on using these files, or the files themselves. For every thing I find online for my pack, or whoever I purchase something from, it will be mentioned here, and contain the price (also, I will entertain better links from someone that found it more accurate or priced better). This will be a very extensive informative thread for a person new to prop making techniques, as well as a person new to Pepakura. Anything else, search function, I'm no stranger to it, neither should you( the reader).

I forgot to add this for MAC users that want to do this in Pepakura. Pepakura is a program not available to MAC users, but they can transfer them to a .pdf file to use with this software.

http://www.bullzip.com/products/pdf/info.php

Also, it's easier if you have this link written down, and the files on a disk for those of you that plan to take this to Kinkos to get printed.

Another small note, those of you who have downloaded the Pepakura files and the viewer, you'll notice I have two folders. One folder has ribbed parts, another, contains the same parts without ribs, like the Crank Generator or the Powercell. When I unfolded them for Pepakura, they came out crazy, and its easier for you to make them out of styrene strips or balsa anyway (I didnt have any luck finding styrene, so I will be using balsa).

Also, MIND MY NOTES. I made notes on alot of these parts. I also say in some places to cut tabs, if you're getting ahead of me (Not recommended), a "tab" is where you match numbers and glue, but some places in these files dont have a tab, and you'll have to make one. If I do something different from my notes, assume that I've probably done it three times before posting to make the change so it works. PLEASE DO NOT get ahead of my build and ask me questions about a part I'm not on yet, its not a "Hey screw you pal" thing, it's a "I'm making this work for sure so you don't have any problems making your own, before I share it." thing.

To catch up, you can crank out the IONARM, the PPDBOX2, and get started on PPDBOX1. Next week, for sure, I will be putting resin on the PPDBOX2 and walk through a build from cut out to resin of the GUNBOXATTACHEDTRIGGERBOX.

PLEASE, I CANT STRESS ENOUGH, BE VERY VERY PATIENT WITH THIS PROJECT AND PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO YOUR FOLDS AND WHAT YOU CUT. It's so easy to make a simple mistake into a major one, throw it out, get discouraged and you're done with it. Just keep at it, you'll have something really awesome when you're done, and learned a few techniques for other props you want to make. My gateway prop was a Proton Pack, and I've made a crap ton of other props since then using what I learned from that, and as I kept making, I kept learning.


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PostPosted: February 24th, 2011, 12:55 am 
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This looks great. I've thought about doing this to create some USCM armour, but never got around to it.
Thanks for sharing. :cool:

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PostPosted: February 24th, 2011, 3:51 am 
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BUAHAAAA
Nice to see it the right way.
Quote:
I'm unemployed and I need something to keep from going crazy, so I set off to do the same thing.

^ Reason I started the one awhile ago. Mind you now I don't even have a BUCK to my name, so I can't even do this. I have just been watching my DVD collection.
ANYWAYS, ima be watching this, since I like pepakura, when I get more money, ima do up my Iron Man suit.My helmet got crushed in a move. :(
Shoulda fibreglassed it before I moved, instead of just the resin.

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PostPosted: February 24th, 2011, 11:38 am 
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ALSO something of note for people NOT wanting to go the pepakura route and absolutely must have some plans from these files, go ahead and follow through downloading the pepakura software or that transfer .PDF software and save the Pepakura files BECAUSE I tried to make it so you can trace these 1:1 scale and use THEM as your plans if all else failed.

I wont be making a walk through with that, because its tracing with judgment and PATIENCE. Remember, I cant stress that enough.

If you're going that route (tracing these files), I'd really like to see it and offer input where i can.


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PostPosted: February 24th, 2011, 1:18 pm 
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This really is an awesome idea. For a crusty old troll you're an ok guy Protoncharger ;)

I'd like to try to tackle one of these this summer just for fun!

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PostPosted: February 24th, 2011, 1:24 pm 
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I'm going to try my hand at this also. I saw this was getting pretty hot in the prop making sceen latley and thought it could be applied to a giga meter. This is even better plus I get some insight on how to apply this to a giga. Thank you for this man!

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PostPosted: February 24th, 2011, 2:58 pm 
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PostPosted: February 24th, 2011, 3:30 pm 
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no way in hell I'd have the patience for this. but good luck to those of you attempting it!

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PostPosted: February 24th, 2011, 8:36 pm 
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Can't wait for update on this. I'm so looking forward to it.


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PostPosted: February 24th, 2011, 10:21 pm 
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Looks like you're using cardstock about the size to fit through a regular desktop printer (81/2 by 11 or so), just wondering how the bigger pieces (like the cyclotron) work. Haven't downloaded the pattern yet, but might give it a go. Don't know if I have the patience for it though.


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PostPosted: February 24th, 2011, 10:43 pm 
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I'll fill this question: The only pieces that require a little extra work are the spacer (syncgen) and the mobo. Which case, the program pepakura prints out with alignment lines, which will match up each piece. You will have to cut out two sides ( I use the left and top sides as a rule, just so I dont accidentally cut the wrong side) so that each piece fits with the alignment marks nicely. Once that is done, glue them together and then you have a full size sheet ready to be cut out.

That was probably a more of a long winded explanation, but honestly it should make sense once you print the paper out. I believe that PC is working on a further explanation to release to you guys, and in my build thread I will touch on it a little bit.

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PostPosted: February 24th, 2011, 11:11 pm 
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Wombatneil wrote:
Looks like you're using cardstock about the size to fit through a regular desktop printer (81/2 by 11 or so), just wondering how the bigger pieces (like the cyclotron) work. Haven't downloaded the pattern yet, but might give it a go. Don't know if I have the patience for it though.


Like Dent said, the pages for bigger things have alignment lines. Download them, Download the software, and look them over before you think you may not have the patience. Im very impatient, but I also know that if i dont slow down and take my time, it will look like shit and I'll have to start over again, wasting lots of material, time, and money I dont have.

Check out the IONARM and PPDBOX2, but before you assemble anything, make SURE you have that Aluminum Air Conditioning Duct Tape if you dont, everything will cave in when you resin. I have construction notes in files that aren't self explanatory, but I want to make sure I elaborate more on them so the parts work properly. That's why I asked NOT to get ahead of me and it falls into me stressing over and over again, patience is an incredible virtue with this project.

I have some ideas to make things like the cyclotron, synchgen/spacer and mobo work, but I wont get to them until I am happy with the top part of the pack. I will not entertain questions to things I haven't built yet unless its a file related issue, because I'm focusing on this project part by part and each will take alot of time to do properly. Think of it as "a Group Project" or a class where everyone is sculpting the same thing, it'll be much better on you to slow down and fall behind, than to speed up and have a ton of questions that don't have any answers gumming up progress for everyone else.


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PostPosted: February 25th, 2011, 12:14 am 
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and yes, the files are in "Letter Format" which is 8.5 X11 Sheets of CARDSTOCK paper. The only issue i can see with that are the overseas members because they have an "A4 Format" for their printers.

I may be misinformed about that, being that its another vague bit of information I pulled from Pepakura modelers.


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PostPosted: February 25th, 2011, 12:44 am 
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Awesome!

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PostPosted: February 25th, 2011, 4:42 am 
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You have a lot of free time on your hands =]

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PostPosted: February 25th, 2011, 10:22 pm 
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Quick explanation why you'll see certain things one way, and done differently on another. I'm making two Proton Packs using my method. Originally the plan was to have my girlfriend build her own alongside me, so I could even better illustrate how simple Pepakura as a medium is easy to learn, and how accessible I made these for someone to build, but I was too anxious to get these files out to you. Not that I made any deadlines, but I know around Halloween there's more traffic...

Anyway, sorry the first post is picking up sort of in the middle of a piece, when two of the easiest pieces are already finished.

I keep saying IONARM and PPDBOX2. I arranged these by their part name, and when I refer to the part...I'll call it by it's file name. Anyway, open up and print ION ARM and PPDBOX2 on CARDSTOCK. You'll notice they're all block shapes with no special detail. Just Perforate their tabs, fold the tabs under, Aluminum Air Conditioning Duct Tape them, and assemble with superglue. Don't get the tape on the tabs, because they wont fold properly, which, I may have made this mistake on purpose in this update so i can illustrate how to fix it if you do. Dont worry about Resin yet, I'm going to complete the top half of the pack before I get into that.

Perforating, BEFORE you add tape is ESSENTIAL because it helps you refold the piece after tape is applied. I will have better pictures of this on the next pack component.

So for today's physical update:
I'll be working with this mess from the ADD TL:DR short version of making a Pepakura prop.?
Image
It's from the file called PPDBOX1
The first thing you should notice, is there's a piece with out tape applied. I didnt apply it to that piece, because it's a "tube" shaped piece and i wanted it to bend properly so, when assembled and resined, it's the female end for a Booster Tube. The second should be the tab error in the top left where that tapeless piece attaches.

AND USING THESE TOOLS
Sharp objects are redundant, but helpful. The Magic Skewer agrees.

Image


NOW TO THE ASSEMBLY!

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To get this picture, I went through THREE CAMERAS because I wanted the ABSOLUTE BEST SHOT of everything im trying to tell you. Those little triangles, dont be discouraged by the amount and size, illustrate what you need to be mindful of when you pep. You need to glue those, and match the numbers to them on a piece that has those numbers. The other thing in this picture, is if you look at the top and left, you see a dark line. This is where what should be my dead ball point pen perforated the lines, but it decided to kick itself back to life briefly. There is no tape on them, and they fold easily. The Magic Skewer is showing you what kind of tab that is perfectly ok to send to "Tab Heaven" if you believe things like that have a place like that to go when they die.

Mine just go to the vacuum cleaner. See how thin that tab is? It's gotta meet it's maker or the hoover.

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That handsome thumb is showing you exactly what you need to do. I KNOW gluing tabs isnt rocket science, but the #1 tab was matched to the #1 face and glued on the tab and held to back of the #1 face. You also see my tabs perforated and anxiously awaiting to meet their mates. ALSO, tab/face #1 in this picture was held flat, but because I perforated ahead of time, and minded where I applied the tape, they folded perfectly like they were supposed to.

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This shows you where I put a sliver of masking tape to hold them together. It's not necessary, but helpful. I'll show you later in this build where it is. Masking tape, is your friend.

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Now we'll be putting together that complicated curve on the left of the PPDBOX1. This part of it is cake. Just be very careful to match the numbers up properly, and if you perforated your fold lines like I told you to, it should curve, and take that sharp bend at the top.

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The Magic Skewer and his mirror friends are showing you where I'm going to dump a few drops of superglue to make that attachment there better. I'm not comfortable with it being so thin a piece, and not having a lot keeping it together.

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Look at THAT JERK just laugh at me. Sitting there, so small of a piece, so difficult to glue and maybe he wont hold together. I'll show him! AFTER I showed it who's boss and glued it together, I assembled the rest of that side. I didnt even bat an eye to those two tabs that it was holding on with a thread taunting me, I RIPPED THOSE BUTTHEADS RIGHT OFF.

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This shows that side attached to the bottom of that curved piece, and The Magic Skewer (fondly referred to in the future as "TMS") is showing you where an obvious gap is formed because of an error in the unfolding. There are a few of these floating around in this project, and I want to address how to fix them before someone barreling through with out looking where they're going gets stuck and gums up the works. To fix this particular one, I took some small cuts of that Aluminum Air Conditioning Duct Tape, and taped over that edge/fold/corner/curve on the inside of the part until I was satisfied it was sealed.

After I did all the steps above for the "square" shaped pieces, this is where we're at. so take a moment to breathe and take it all in.

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Now, TO FIX MY BOO BOO

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Here is the part in question, where I made two mistakes you will probably make at some point. It's an honest mistake, and it just says you need to slow down and take your time. First was, I didnt cut my tabs. Second, I applied tape over that mistake. That meant i had to do the following;

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TMS is pointing at the tabs covered in tape from the back. i have to remove the tape carefully. If you make this mistake, DO NOT cut the tabs then remove the tape just cut the tabs and fold it as best as you absolutely possibly can. if you HAVENT you can salvage it, but it's nerve wracking

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TMS is showing you where I CAREFULLY removed the tape with a guestimation of where the fold of the tab is. The tape will pull up some paper, so you have to be EXTRA careful at this part, because when you cut the tab, you may rip off more than just a single tab, and a tear in a pep is a fix, though simple, a fix you dont want to waste time and materials on. I just continued until i had all the tape taken off the tabs, and flipped it over to cut them CAREFULLY.

ANYWAY. BECAUSE I TOOK THE TAPE OFF THE BACK IT WAS THIN HERE. so I couldnt just hack these tabs out. I needed to hold my breath while I did it, so I didnt shake and cut more off than i needed. That's a good thing to remember, very very fine detail work, hold your breath, it was a tip I learned from a professional miniature painter when I was younger and it's never failed me.

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TMS is showing you where I purposely didnt cut until that piece's tabs were cut, lines were perforated and folded. Had I cut that piece there, it would have been weak and fallen off when I was perforating it. When I was finished perforating I cut that piece. DO NOT PUT ALUMINUM AIR CONDITIONING DUCTTAPE ON THIS PIECE.

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This shows that whole goofy piece together. The best way to do this, is to put it together, and as you put it together, you tape the bottom to the sides. Then super glue ON THE INSIDE. Later on in this build I plan on hacking the bottom off anyway, its really there so the Booster Tube can rest on the inside walls of it, and have something to mount to. I never liked eyeballing a cut to that angle, and you'll be putting a fake weld over that later anyway. You're welcome for keeping your fingers.

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This picture shows that sleeve for the Booster Tube, being attached to the piece I had to cut the tabs out of because of my error. Remember earlier how I said "Masking tape is your friend"? I used it to line up my numbers and tabs from both of these pieces, made them as flat as I could make them, and then put a sliver of tape to keep them attached. I DIDNT GLUE ANYTHING YET.

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Here, TMS is showing you where I AM GOING TO GLUE. The thing is, about pepakura, is you're not limited to every tab and every face. But, I cant stress enough, that you MUST BE VERY MINDFUL OF THEM. TMS is pointing where I am gluing. and I did fold up some tabs to glue over. This may or may not make a better hold, but I've never had any issue when I deviate from tabs a little. Just hold the flat piece down flat, and glue until you're completely around the piece with out tape, that you shouldnt have put tape on like I said not to do earlier.



Now, after all has been said and done with the PPDBOX1 file, this is all she wrote
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More on those black circles later!


way later.


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PostPosted: February 25th, 2011, 11:17 pm 
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I actually had the idea for a paper proton pack for a while, but I didn't make mine using peparkura. No one was really intresteded, it wasn't as detailed but then again, I hate cutting all those little tabs lol.

http://80sguy.deviantart.com/gallery/?q ... k#/d2l3y8f


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PostPosted: February 25th, 2011, 11:25 pm 
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80sguy wrote:
. No one was really intresteded


It was also just an RGB toy pack.....

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You tell 'em I'm postin'! And Hell's postin' with me!


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PostPosted: February 25th, 2011, 11:52 pm 
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Boomerjinks wrote:
80sguy wrote:
. No one was really intresteded


It was also just an RGB toy pack.....


The design was based on the movie, and there are packs people have made that aren't 1/1 sized..... :sigh:


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PostPosted: February 26th, 2011, 12:14 am 
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80sguy wrote:
Boomerjinks wrote:

It was also just an RGB toy pack.....


The design was based on the movie, and there are packs people have made that aren't 1/1 sized..... :sigh:


There's a fundamental and obvious difference between our packs, and "papercraft" and "pepakura". I would appreciate you didnt respond about yours in my thread anymore.

Mine is 1:1 scale and accurate using recent prop plans and some new measurements not on Stefan's plans from some respected members of the community that had some time with a screen used Proton Pack, 3 minutes looking into yours, yields another inaccurate pack that happens to be made out of paper(and not even card stock paper). I've already reported your first response and asked for it to be removed. Please show me some courtesy, and others following this build using my files and keep with the topic of this build.

No offense intended, though I am that you popped in with yours and took 4 posts from a progressing build discussion, and being that mine require moderator approval, but it makes all too much sense why there wasnt much interest in yours. It is in no way shape or form accurate, or in scale.

Whoever modeled the other pepakura proton pack has a apple in this basket, not you.


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PostPosted: February 26th, 2011, 9:39 am 
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ProtonCharger, I thank you for all your hard work and dedication to this project. I am going to be using this method to build my first pack!


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PostPosted: February 26th, 2011, 10:26 am 
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Mythic Prime wrote:
ProtonCharger, I thank you for all your hard work and dedication to this project. I am going to be using this method to build my first pack!


Awesome! Keep up with the build, and you'll do a wonderful job!


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