View new posts | View your posts Nick-a-tron's slimeblower build. LOTS OF PHOTOS!

---

Ok it's about I tackled a slimeblower. Can't make packs all my life

Ok just really been collecting parts the last few weeks but today I managed to glue the tank parts to the project boxes and drill the LED holes inbetween casting orders.

Here's what I have so far....

Project boxes with tank parts glued on and holes drilled...



Vac formed domes for the 2 green tanks...


lamps and grip...


Watch this space

Oh my god, I'm gonna SO follow this thread! This will be a tutorial for meh!

Me too!

Very nice, Nick. You are just about where I am if I decided to put my box of parts together so far for a slimeblower. Just wait till you have to buy the quick connects for the hoses. . . that gets expensive quickly.

That's the part I'm dreading!

I managed to pick up 7 of them from various ebay auctions for around $10 each. 3 of them are slightly off but can be hidden and only 2 male sides so far. Not exactly cheap but cheaper than retail.

Is there a part no. for them and how many are needed for a blower?

3/4" brass quick connect, 6 female 3 male. Here's what I've gotten so far:



The ones on the right are incorrect but can be hidden in such a way that I don't care. The accurate ones are from a company named Parker. It's their ST series: http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.de7b26ee6a659c147cf26710237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=fcc9b5bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCRD&vgnextdiv=687539&vgnextcatid=2629945&vgnextcat=ST+SERIES+-+BRASS+-+NA&Wtky=&vgnextfmt=default but if you buy them direct they're $45 each.

Still need to figure out the right zinc/galvy nuts to connect the hose to the male side.

You need:

Quanity-5 of BST-6 , Female quick connect, female threads, three on pack two on gun.
Quanity-1 of BST-6M ,Female quick connect, male threads, one on back of gun.
Quanity-3 of ST-N6 ,Male quick connect, female threads, used on hoses.
Quanity-1 of 1/4DD44B Elbow used on ball
Quanity-1 of 1/4X3/8FF33B reducer used on elbow and ball.

Holy old school marine rhino!!!

Cool! Thanks for the info. Better start saving the pennies.

There are no zinc/galvy nuts, that's the ST-N6, it's a steel male quick connect with a large hex because of the female threads..

The BST-6 run around $20 not $45 from what I've seen.

So I saw from your post, hadn't gotten that far in actually looking at options yet.

Very interested to see how it turns out.

Hey Nick, those quick connects/brass fittings for the Slime Blower are going to cost a bomb! Have you got any yet? If you do I bet you'll make a packet casting them (hint, hint) lol.

I'm at the same point as you. I'm just slowly gathering the smaller components at the moment for my Blower. I probably won't start until I've got everything.

Ok I'm going to complain, again, for me I am only going to build one slimeblower so that means a one time investment in parts, while the fitting are a ball buster I chose to use real fitting over cast because of only having to buy them once.

My choice for other matierals was based on what was used on the original packs as well, seeing that I was only going to build one I used what I felt was used and what would hold up well. I had several people suggest that I use a sonotube for the main tank, a big chunk of cardboard that is hard to blend in with the domes and won't hold up at all. Not for me. As it turns out the ABS sheet wraped around wood rings works well and is pretty tuff. I would recommend the method to anyone over the cardboard tube anyday.

Look on e-bay or around the net for the fittings, I ended up getting the all the quick connects for under $100 .

I just want to encourage you build a better pack that you will enjoy more and will drive all the other people nuts.

True, it's all down to personal preference as to whether a person goes to the extra effort to include a full set of authentic items, but sometimes people prefer the resin alternatives.
For a brief time I had a set of real Clippard in my possession, as I'd bought them as a gift for a friend, and I can see the attraction of having real ones... but I personally wasn't keen on the weight, and with my Proton Gun being as heavy as it already is, I'm glad I opted for a resin Clippard.

I'm also glad I went with resin resistors on the Pack, as one got knocked off last year. I'd certainly feel less annoyed and upset over losing a resin greeblie, than a genuine one. There's the added attraction that if a resin greeblie were damaged, or lost, it's a lot easier to replace than vintage parts that are already getting scarce.

Resin or genuine, Nick will do wonders with whatever option he goes with.

UPDATES!!! I demand UPDATES!! lol

I will be watching this build very closely. Since your name is attached to it, I am expecting great things. No pressure Nick

Project on hold while I get my fiberglass shells and throwers made. Dont have much time for personal projects right now but im hoping to crack on with the blower once I have some free time over the summer.

Hey Nick, definitely understandable, just makes the wait to see what you come up with more unbearable!

Also, just curious, have you ever given thought to selling sets of those vacformed domes for the side tanks? Finding domes that need little modding (like tons of bondo work) seems to be a bit of an issue with some builds.

If I had a way of vac-forming Id sell domes for sure! I purchased these off ebay some time ago but sadly the seller seems to have closed shop.

Ok time to restart this project! Thanks to Colins amazing SB parts ive had a new found inspiration to continue my build.

Ok so next thing is to start on the gun. I recieved colins amazing kit yesterday and instantly began dry fitting parts. Today i started to mod the kit a little in order to make it as screen accurate as possible.

1st on the to-do list was cut 90mm from the rear of the gun. Colins kit is a tad too long and after scaling and measuring photos of the screen used props I came up with 90mm

1st half....


Both halves...


This meant that the hinge also had to be cut down...


A small slot also had to be made in the rear cap to allow the hinge to slip into. It just so happens that Colins cap has a hole in just the right spot. I cut a slot using this hole as a guide and slipped it over the hinge and main tube...



Next up was repositioning the handle. Colins mounting hole is a little far back and central. It should sit 39mm from the front edge of the main tube and over to the left a little. The old hole will be covered by the small black box.



Ok so here is how she sits now. Next up is mounting the smaller details and scratchbuilding the black boxes (yes i will be casting and selling copies).

Awesome work Nick!

And, the mods to the tube look fantastic. Looks like I have some cutting to do as well.

Goff

You guys really are doing a convincing job in making me want to build a Slime Blower (doesn't help I have the lights and sound kit, which really, I shouldn't have bought if I hadn't thought about doing it).

So many great Slime Blower builds going on at the moment.

Nice work Nick. I've also noticed the length and hole placements, but it's an easy fix as you have proved. Shame I'm so busy at the moment, I want to get this started!!!

Thanks guys! Yes Mark it's a real easy fix, Colin's kit is so well made altering it a little is a doddle

Ok last little update before bed, holes drilled and tapped for the nose cone and end cap.

looks awesome nick. keep up the great work

Thanks for the kind words!

Ok i got a little more done today inbetween casting orders....

Tapped and screwed in the P-clamps for the strap rings. Simple job. I also gave the end cap a coat of games workshops chaos black spray paint.



I then installed the large brass elbow.


And then I swapped out the undersized white grip in the handle for larger one bt this now looks too big IMO so ill have to buy some new PVC thats 1.25" diameter. I also dry fitted the valve handle but may change it's location.

Here's how she looks after todays work.


Tonight ill begin scratchbuilding the 2 black boxes.