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PostPosted: December 15th, 2011, 7:58 pm 
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No, no welding. Soldering.
Just like with copper pipes, its very easy to do. You don't even need a torch if you have a soldering iron with enough heat like a Weller gun.
Like this guys does.


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PostPosted: December 16th, 2011, 3:09 am 
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Bloody hell, that's awesome.

Gives me thoughts about the new Pack I'm planning on putting together next Summer.

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PostPosted: December 16th, 2011, 12:35 pm 
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Absolutely insane. The interior of that thrower looks like a clock, I'm not even kidding. Truly a fine-tuned instrument of precision. The original throwers don't hold a candle to yours.

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PostPosted: December 16th, 2011, 3:01 pm 
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Said by a master of perfectionism like you, it is a very great compliment. Thanks again to everybody for appreciation. :)

I'm now into electronics matter. I have to apologize with Crix for having bothered him with so many stupid questions without seeing all that I need already was in his thread...

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PostPosted: December 16th, 2011, 4:18 pm 
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AMAZING thrower!

That magnetic popping mechanism is genius.


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PostPosted: December 17th, 2011, 2:44 pm 
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i would LOVE to just sit back and watch as you guys figure out all the components, and fabricate everything.

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PostPosted: December 18th, 2011, 7:57 pm 
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Hey fago.

Just following along behind you....I tried that soldering technique that cris was talking about...

It works really well and it's quite easy.. you just need to buy yourself a few things...

a cheap mini soldering torch like the one plummers use. Mine was about $50 dollars...
some metal solder (for bonding metals) ( not the kind for electronics)
some flux
oh and the gas for your torch ;)



All these things were in the plumbing DIY section at my local store, they had many different types of solder and it was fairly easy to find the right sort. It cost me about $100 for the whole set up...but to be honest I think id use it all the time now :)


Cheers

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PostPosted: December 19th, 2011, 3:53 am 
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Very interesting, but I have to pass for now because my budget is exausted and I don't need it further for the gun, at least until the epoxy gluing will last (the piece survived to many intensive stress tests). Anyway a mini soldering torch was added to my wish list, along with a manual lathe machine...

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PostPosted: December 19th, 2011, 4:12 am 
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Awesome video! Thanks for posting. I get tickled inside wen I see it. I gotta get me an aluminum gun!

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PostPosted: December 21st, 2011, 4:59 am 
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Vincenzo330 wrote:
Unfortunately I don't have any pictures from better angles, but I've seen the hero thrower in person and I can confirm that they are indeed rivets that hold the rear grip on. If only this picture had been taken from just a little higher :(

Image

But you did it! Looking at your pictures very carefully I found this one:
Image

Here is the enhanced detail:
Image

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PostPosted: January 31st, 2012, 6:47 pm 
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Some progress:

From this...
Image

Through this...
Image

To this...
Image

Rear grip...
Image

Gun ear wiring...
Image
Image
Image

Front grip...
Image

I also fixed something inside...
Image

And of course I painted the whole thing satin black...

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PostPosted: January 31st, 2012, 7:33 pm 
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Awesome man!


I'm following along beside you and i'm not too far away. I basically had the same idea for the dpdt switch so I'll post mine soon and show you how I did mine...


fantastic job!

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PostPosted: January 31st, 2012, 10:13 pm 
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I have wand envy. T-T

For some reason, I've missed this thread until now. Excellent work!

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PostPosted: February 12th, 2012, 1:25 pm 
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I have a question-

It seems you'll be using the Jupiter wand light kit, as you posted here:

Image

My question is-- Does the tip extension linkage lever on "retracted" position clear the big diagonal board of the thrower kit that sticks out from the bargraph inside the gunbox? This is something I could see being a real issue. I've actually secretly wished that if Christian ever does a V.2 of his thrower kit, that he has the bargraph on a ribbon cable or something, so there's not this whole board sticking in the way.

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PostPosted: February 12th, 2012, 3:22 pm 
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Gorgeous build, fago!

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PostPosted: February 12th, 2012, 8:02 pm 
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FossilizedArt wrote:
I have a question-

It seems you'll be using the Jupiter wand light kit, as you posted here:

My question is-- Does the tip extension linkage lever on "retracted" position clear the big diagonal board of the thrower kit that sticks out from the bargraph inside the gunbox? This is something I could see being a real issue. I've actually secretly wished that if Christian ever does a V.2 of his thrower kit, that he has the bargraph on a ribbon cable or something, so there's not this whole board sticking in the way.

Yes, it is the Jupiter light kit, but I will use it only for the indicators and the bargraph, as I replaced the grill vent light with a 2,5v incandescent lamp and the barrel flickering led with a 15 leds lamp drived by a flashing circuit both running at 12v.

I built the barrel extension mechanism after installing the kit, so there is no way that the board can interfere with the linkage, although at some points they are just a few millimeters away. I also grinded some corners of the board for a better fit.

Anyway I would have preferred a ribbon cable too. Actually I would have preferred an Exoray's kit.

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PostPosted: February 12th, 2012, 8:52 pm 
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c.fago wrote:
Actually I would have preferred an Exoray's kit.


You'd have had a lot less room with Exoray's kit in there.

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PostPosted: February 12th, 2012, 9:03 pm 
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Wow... O_o........ This makes me want to build a new Thrower

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PostPosted: February 13th, 2012, 5:14 am 
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Kingpin wrote:
c.fago wrote:
Actually I would have preferred an Exoray's kit.


You'd have had a lot less room with Exoray's kit in there.

You're right about his standard kit, but - just before Exoray had problems - I was going to buy the "deluxe in pack version" of his kit with almost all the electronics placed outside the wand. Also, it features an integrated sound board that would have saved me a lot of time, work and troubles.

Anyway I think I'll be proud of the end result of my efforts...

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PostPosted: February 13th, 2012, 9:39 am 
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c.fago wrote:
and the barrel flickering led with a 15 leds lamp drived by a flashing circuit both running at 12v.


15 LED's in the barrel? I WANNA SEE PICS OF THAT SHIT. :cool:


c.fago wrote:
I was going to buy the "deluxe in pack version" of his kit with almost all the electronics placed outside the wand. Also, it features an integrated sound board that would have saved me a lot of time, work and troubles.


Whoa, whoa, are you saying that once upon a time, there actually WAS a single kit with light and sound all on one board? (Sorry to momentarily hijack the thread, this is just kind of something I've been saying needs to happen for a long time, rather than needing 4 or 5 modules)

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PostPosted: February 13th, 2012, 10:47 am 
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I'll post some pics of the barrel lamp soon.

About Exoray's kit, actually I don't know if it features just one or two separate boards for light and sound, as it is irrelevant since they are external (and in the pack there is so much room). For integrated I mean they are built to work togheter, coming prewired and ready to install, without having to replace the switches.

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PostPosted: February 13th, 2012, 11:36 am 
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FossilizedArt wrote:
15 LED's in the barrel? I WANNA SEE PICS OF THAT SHIT.



Seconded! I'd also love to see the wiring/plans for how you got that going, if at all possible!

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PostPosted: February 13th, 2012, 1:21 pm 
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Sorry to disappoint you, I was misunderstood.

I haven't put 15 LEDs into the barrel, I have put just one lamp with 15 LEDs. It's far different of course. I wanted to replicate the brightness of the original prop, without any rainbow stream effect, only powerful white flickering light, as well to compensate for the lack of a functional flashbulb, as mine will have only aesthetical purposes. The led in the Jupiter kit was too weak, outdoor under indirect sunlight or in a well-lit room it was barely visible.

This is the type of LED lamp I used:
Image

Once installed in my barrel assembly:
Image
Image
Image

Light on:

I can assure you that live is awesome. It's so bright that it looks like there's a big continuous spark, almost a blaze, inside the barrel.

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PostPosted: February 13th, 2012, 8:07 pm 
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Wow amazing did you have to change anything on the circuit or did you just cut and splice the led?


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PostPosted: February 13th, 2012, 8:27 pm 
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It's a 12v lamp, so you cannot use the Jupiter kit to drive this. I used a 12v RGB LEDs strip controller to get the flashing effect. It also means that you need a 3pdt push button switch to activate the barrel light, the bargraph display and the stream sound at the same time.

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PostPosted: February 13th, 2012, 9:19 pm 
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WOAH :shock: Okay....now I want that in my barrel too.

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PostPosted: February 13th, 2012, 9:38 pm 
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That is the most amazing barrel effect I've ever seen!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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PostPosted: February 13th, 2012, 10:05 pm 
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freaking awesome!!


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PostPosted: February 13th, 2012, 10:07 pm 
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c.fago wrote:
It's a 12v lamp, so you cannot use the Jupiter kit to drive this. I used a 12v RGB LEDs strip controller to get the flashing effect. It also means that you need a 3pdt push button switch to activate the barrel light, the bargraph display and the stream sound at the same time.

Hate to be a copy cat but that barrel flash is amazing. You are an innovator in every sense. Im at home now working with a top mount external flash from my old nikkon ,but i think what you did is easier ,can I get to to give up the bulb model no and flasher circuit your using, where they came from . And good job you did.sir.

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PostPosted: February 13th, 2012, 10:18 pm 
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c.fago wrote:
This is the type of LED lamp I used:
Image

Once installed in my barrel assembly:
Image
Image
Image

Light on:

I can assure you that live is awesome. It's so bright that it looks like there's a big continuous spark, almost a blaze, inside the barrel.


:shock:
Gamechanger

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