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PostPosted: October 23rd, 2011, 5:15 pm 
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Very nice upgrades Mike, love the adhesive foam rubber you added.

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PostPosted: October 24th, 2011, 6:54 am 
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Thanks man. :) Now if I could only find a way to rough it up without destroying it. :P

Speaking of roughing it up, since the modifications are pretty much done, I started with the final weathering. I'm trying something new this time; since this is a GB2 pack, its current paint job is way too clean. Plus Krylon BBQ is a little too shiny (especially on the new parts) So I decided to go over the whole pack with different grades of steel wool (medium for scratches, fine and super fine for scuffing and dulling down the finish) I like the final result very much; it's subtle, but it definitively looks good (didn't want to go overboard with this) I managed to expose the aluminum on the metal parts, and the silver base coat on the shell and bumper did exactly what it was supposed to do (even though it's not accurate; but I didn't know that at the time :P) Check out the results.

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It's pretty much done at this point, the only remaining detail is another generous coat of fuller's earth; wiping the whole pack with steel wool pretty much removed it all. After that I'll only have to replace the bumper screws (still waiting for those) and reassemble the pack. Then it'll be done! I know, I don't quite believe it myself. :P


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PostPosted: October 25th, 2011, 11:58 am 
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How is the exoray bumper inaccurate?


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PostPosted: October 25th, 2011, 11:52 pm 
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Are you going to switch the Clippard back to a hex and move it from the ion cap to the arm, or just leave it as is?

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PostPosted: October 26th, 2011, 4:01 am 
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madmantrez wrote:
How is the exoray bumper inaccurate?


He means the bumper having exposed silver to represent metal isnt accurate, not the bumper itself.

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PostPosted: October 26th, 2011, 6:29 am 
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What he said. Also, the shape itself isn't quite right (it a little too rounded) Of course, I've sanded it waaay too much before painting it, so that's that. :)

KagaSakai wrote:
Are you going to switch the Clippard back to a hex and move it from the ion cap to the arm, or just leave it as is?
I'm going to leave it as is. Too much work, and I really look how it looks right now. Another inaccuracy compared to the Sony lobby! :P


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PostPosted: October 26th, 2011, 4:45 pm 
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This thread should be stickied so generations to come can learn and profit.


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PostPosted: October 27th, 2011, 1:34 pm 
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Filandrius wrote:
Sometime last year, I acquired an aluminum N-filter, custom made to fit on the Alkaline shell. The filter was made with the current accurate specs, 3" OD and all.

Could you share with us where/whom you got the aluminum N-Fiiter? I've been looking to do the same for my own Alkaline shell, mostly because the top of mine broke off while I was trying to thin the walls behind the holes. The aluminum version you got there looks perfect. The fact it fits over the left over end of the old one is even more perfect!


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PostPosted: October 28th, 2011, 7:37 am 
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Well it was made as a favor by a buddy of mine, who custom machined it from an Alkaline shell he had at the time. (it was made last winter) I'm not really sure he still has that shell, and he's not interested in making any more right now. Having know that there was interest, I should've suggested to him to make a bunch. ;)


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PostPosted: October 28th, 2011, 1:24 pm 
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Ah well, thanks for the info all the same. If he does ever show interest in whipping up another please keep me in mind! ;)


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PostPosted: October 29th, 2011, 6:45 am 
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Will do. :)

OK a last few things before it's done.

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First I removed the brass washers from the booster frame's bolts because, you guessed it, there wasn't any on the Sony lobby hero pack. I liked that detail a lot, but it doesn't fit with that particular pack somehow. Oh well! :P

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Then, like I mentioned earlier, I replaced the (inaccurate) 10/32 socket caps screws on the bumper for some 1/4-20 Philips screws. I know the placement isn't quite right, but I had to use the existing holes; I didn't want to remove patch the holes and re-paint the whole bumper. Still think it looks nice. :D

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I also replaced the 1/4-20 socket cap that hold the shell on the motherboard with the same Philips. I used 2 on top (one on each side) and 4 on the bottom (there's 2 on each side on the Sony lobby) I guess I forgot to take pics of those :P)

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As part of the final weathering, I followed the suggestion of my good friend Mark to rust out the screws. I used a solution of saturated salt water which I simply put on the bolts with a brush. By leaving it to dry, the next morning all the screws had rusted out. It's a little hard to see here, but you can tell that the ribbon cable clamp screws are rusted. :)

Speaking of weathering, the final touch is done (Fuller's earth) but that's for the next update. :) Stay tuned! This one is almost done! :P


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PostPosted: October 29th, 2011, 7:07 am 
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So when are you going to start your slime blower!


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PostPosted: October 29th, 2011, 6:54 pm 
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I'm not really a blower guy. But never say never, as they say. ;)

OK so as I was saying last time, the last weathering touch (the fuller's earth) has been done, after the steel wool and the rust on the bolts. The dirt reacted very well to the wooled paint, adding a whole new layer of detail. It's really hard to appreciate unless you see it in person, but I took a bunch of pictures to try and show it all. Sorry for the sheer number, but it IS complete after all, and I want to get it out of my system. ;) So here goes!

FIrst some pics of the whole, complete and assembled pack.

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Some close-ups, to try and show the details.

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And the back, which I kinda forgot. I'm really glad of what I was able to do with the fuller's earth on the foam.

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And that's it! The pack is done. I know, it sounds like I'm trying to convince myself. But this time it feels complete. Maybe it's time for me to finally put it on. ;)

Thanks for watching!


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PostPosted: October 29th, 2011, 7:43 pm 
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Proton packs are never finished, they are only abandoned ;)

Its been a fun ride Mike! Thats one seriously awsome pack! Now I want you to just sit back and look at her for 30mins solid and just soak in the awsomeness. Doctors orders.

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PostPosted: October 29th, 2011, 9:40 pm 
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I thought I was the only one who did that. ;) Thanks for the nice words, man. :)


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PostPosted: October 29th, 2011, 11:18 pm 
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This build was clearly a labor of love! It finally inspired me to get my own going, and I'm sure many others can say the same. Thank you for sharing!

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PostPosted: October 30th, 2011, 8:54 am 
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Phenomenal work. I hope both of your hands are currently engaged with patting yourself on the back. :)

Whilst I'm not intent on making a screen accurate pack (were I a Ghostbuster I'd be OCD about ensuring my unlicensed nuclear accelerator was ALWAYS in utterly tip-top condition :D ) I really do appreciate the skill, research and perseverance that goes into making something so authentic.

Congratulations. :)


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PostPosted: February 14th, 2012, 8:23 pm 
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Yeeeah, I know. I lied. Again. What can I do? I'm addicted. :P

So! A few minor but very interesting upgrades this time around, which makes this thing quite a bit more accurate. At this point, it's all in the details, right? ;)

Image

First I upgraded the HGA label with one of JoeLuna's magnificent replicas (yeah, a replica. I've said it. It's NOT just a "label") Reeeally looks better than the old label-stuck-on-an-aluminum-plate thing. Really professional, too; looks exactly like the real thing.

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I also upgraded the one on the crank gen. Ever since it was discovered that this thing was metallic (i.e. a long time ago) that white label has been bugging me. So it had to go! Looove the new one. I even banged it up a little to weather it, but it's hard to see on that pic. :P

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Yes, I've replaced my 5/32" Legris elbows. No, those aren't genuine 4mm, and I know some of you won't believe me (that's a compliment for the guy who made them, really :lol:) Those are really Nick's new replicas, with real brass inserts. Yeah, they look just like the real things. So if any of you are on the fence about those, just buy some, you won't regret it. :D

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The one on the cyclotron. The cast is great, and the little tiny 4 is clearly visible. Heck before seeing those I had no idea that the 5/32" didn't even have the right shape. :shock:

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And the one on the ion arm. The greatest thing is that, when using genuine brass fittings, they screw in 1/8-27 NPT threads (like the one I had already tapped) and they accept 5/32" tubing, just like the real ones. Amazing bit of casting. Nick is an artist (but you all already knew that :P)

So that's it for now. Because yes, I still have stuff planned (why didn't you upgrade that bumper label, Mike? :lol:) Stay tuned!


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PostPosted: February 14th, 2012, 10:01 pm 
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Filandrius wrote:
Yeeeah, I know. I lied. Again. What can I do? I'm addicted. :P

So! A few minor but very interesting upgrades this time around, which makes this thing quite a bit more accurate. At this point, it's all in the details, right? ;)

Image

First I upgraded the HGA label with one of JoeLuna's magnificent replicas (yeah, a replica. I've said it. It's NOT just a "label") Reeeally looks better than the old label-stuck-on-an-aluminum-plate thing. Really professional, too; looks exactly like the real thing.

Image

I also upgraded the one on the crank gen. Ever since it was discovered that this thing was metallic (i.e. a long time ago) that white label has been bugging me. So it had to go! Looove the new one. I even banged it up a little to weather it, but it's hard to see on that pic. :P

Image

Yes, I've replaced my 5/32" Legris elbows. No, those aren't genuine 4mm, and I know some of you won't believe me (that's a compliment for the guy who made them, really :lol:) Those are really Nick's new replicas, with real brass inserts. Yeah, they look just like the real things. So if any of you are on the fence about those, just buy some, you won't regret it. :D

Image

The one on the cyclotron. The cast is great, and the little tiny 4 is clearly visible. Heck before seeing those I had no idea that the 5/32" didn't even have the right shape. :shock:

Image

And the one on the ion arm. The greatest thing is that, when using genuine brass fittings, they screw in 1/8-27 NPT threads (like the one I had already tapped) and they accept 5/32" tubing, just like the real ones. Amazing bit of casting. Nick is an artist (but you all already knew that :P)

So that's it for now. Because yes, I still have stuff planned (why didn't you upgrade that bumper label, Mike? :lol:) Stay tuned!

you never cease to amaze with this, I look forward to what you have planned for this beauty.


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PostPosted: February 14th, 2012, 10:08 pm 
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That ion arm is a thing of beauty. I think I may have referenced your build at least as often as the packs in the reference section while working on mine. Keep up the amazing work. I love this thing!

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PostPosted: February 16th, 2012, 7:21 pm 
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Thanks guys, the kind words are really appreciated. :)


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PostPosted: February 17th, 2012, 7:43 pm 
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The HGA looks fantastic with the new label on it. I am excited to paint mine and get it on there.

Are you planning to do a fake weld on the bottom of the booster tube? (maybe that's already been asked)


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PostPosted: February 17th, 2012, 9:11 pm 
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Nice job, Mike!

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PostPosted: February 17th, 2012, 9:17 pm 
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Well, the weld is more of a variation of pack thing, instead of a GB1 vs. GB2 thing. The Sony lobby hero pack, for example, has the weld. The Minnesota "Bill M." hero pack has not. Both were converted to GB2 at the same time, and personally I think that both had that detail beforehand.

As for mine, even if my pack is starting to look a lot like the Sony lobby hero, there's a few details here and there that I chose to ignore on purpose (mainly because reproducing them all would entail to start the build from scratch, pretty much) So, even if I like the weld, my pack won't have one.


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PostPosted: February 17th, 2012, 9:27 pm 
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Filandrius wrote:
Well, the weld is more of a variation of pack thing, instead of a GB1 vs. GB2 thing. The Sony lobby hero pack, for example, has the weld. The Minnesota "Bill M." hero pack has not. Both were converted to GB2 at the same time, and personally I think that both had that detail beforehand.

As for mine, even if my pack is starting to look a lot like the Sony lobby hero, there's a few details here and there that I chose to ignore on purpose (mainly because reproducing them all would entail to start the build from scratch, pretty much) So, even if I like the weld, my pack won't have one.



I am using your thread and Bigi's as my goto resource while building mine. I think I am going to do a "hybrid" as well, not replicating a certain pack.

It looks awesome, leep up the good work!


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PostPosted: February 17th, 2012, 9:37 pm 
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Other examples of weld discrepancy: the Omni cover GB1 hero pack doesn't have the booster weld. The Time Life GB1 hero has it. And the privately owned hero doesn't. So, GB1 or not, it's really a matter of WHICH pack you're replicating, not which movie. ;)


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PostPosted: February 17th, 2012, 9:42 pm 
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lannyjack wrote:
I am using your thread and Bigi's as my goto resource while building mine. I think I am going to do a "hybrid" as well, not replicating a certain pack.

It looks awesome, leep up the good work!
Building a hybrid is the best of both worlds, methinks. Like a detail? Include it! Don't like one? Scrap it! Pretty much all subtle details like these are present on some packs and absent on others. ;)


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PostPosted: April 14th, 2012, 1:46 pm 
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I think it's finally time to unveil what I was working on for the past few weeks (or months) I've been upgrading a LOT of details on my current pack, to make it as close and accurate as possible to the screen-used pack that was sold privately (or more simply the Ray GB2 pack) So here goes!

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On this first pic you see that I've switched the (incorrect) red tubing that I had under the HGA loom for blue. Well you don't see it, but it's there. I also used a longer length to better replicate that detail on the GB2 Ray. I also removed the paint from the V-hook spacer (that detail was unique to the Minnesota PH hero pack)

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Over here you see that I did the (fake) weld between the ion arm and the booster tube, using a plastic 1/2" rod instead of an aluminum rod (my booster is ABS, can't really weld that) I also switched the blue Nycoil tubing between the resistor and the PPD with a lighter shade. That one is longer too, to go over the ribbon cable instead of under. You can also see that I modified the split loom boots to match the ring counts on the real pack.

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Speaking of ribbon cable, I replaced the 1 1/8" ID P-clamp (which was used on the Minnesota PH hero and on the Sony lobby hero) with a 7/8" ID. IMHO I think that this particular size of clamp was used on the GB2 Ray and on the semi-hero packs. I also re-twisted my Spectra strip to better match the screen-used one. Last detail: I modified the installation of the PPD; now it faces straight back (instead of being at an angle, like on the Minnesota PH)

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Up here I added an extra Philips screw on the top motherboard mounting point (a detail unique to the Ray GB2 as far as I know) and replaced the Sage resistor with a Pacific. I've kept the "GB1" setup for the ion arm cap/Clippard fitting combo because the GB2 Ray still has his (square fitting on the ion arm cap instead of an hex fitting on the ion arm itself)

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Not much to see here, except to note that I left all the GB1 labels on the cyclotron and the N-filter. Also I made sure to use the correct screws for the ribbon cable clamp and the Clippard valve (6-32 and 8-32, respectively) Oh and if you find a cat in that pic there's a no-price attached to that.

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Major update (for me) and one that really makes the GB2 pack: I've finally added the correct 1/4-20 slotted button screw to the shock mount. I even matched the angle of the screw to the GB2 Ray.

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While the Philips screws that hold the shell are unpainted (at least on the pack I'm replicating) the bumper ones are painted black. So I painted them and distressed the paint to match the weathering (I also dulled the finish on the unpainted ones, even if it's hard to see)

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Now that has to be my favorite update. As far as I know no one ever put this on their pack, so I had to. :) I don't really care which letter Ray's pack had in the court scene, I just like this too much not to use it. :)

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Now for the back of the pack. I had added an extra coat of foam on the ALICE frame padding, because I thought that all the converted hero packs had it. Well I was wrong. The GB2 Ray doesn't, so it had to go. I took this opportunity to re-do the padding entirely, adding the white color in the inside, and using genuine gaffer's tape this time. Looks good, methinks.

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In this pic I'm trying to show my ALICE frame setup. I used 3 Philips 1/4-20 screw to replace my (incorrect) 3/8-16 carriage bolts (at least for a GB2 hero pack) I sandwiched the frame between washers, used thin 1" long anodized aluminum spacers, and screwed the screws real tight. Not sure if the GB2 Ray is exactly like this, but both the Sony lobby hero and the Minnesota PH are like this, so there.

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I also removed the round rubber spacer which I used for the top mounting point. This was removed for the GB2 pack for some reason.

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I replaced the LC-2 shoulder straps with padded LC-1 straps, just like the 3 hero packs. I couldn't pad the LC-2 because they were only used on the semi-hero packs. So that's a complete GB2 hero setup: padded LC-1 shoulder straps and LC-2 waist pad, on an ALICE LC-1 frame (semi-hero packs used a painted LC-2)

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And here's an ensemble shot of the back of the pack. You may notice that instead of a fuse label there's a big gray square; while the gray square is accurate to the Sony lobby hero pack, the GB2 Ray still has his fuse label. Only waiting for Joe's label for that. (Can't wait for that one)

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And a few beauty shots of the front. Left side...

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Straight on...

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And that shot right there, that I've been waiting to post for a long time now. That's the money shot, because it's the same angle as that pic of the GB2 Ray. Here it is for comparison:

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So please me know what you guys think. And thanks for watching!


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PostPosted: April 14th, 2012, 2:08 pm 
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You know your a addict right? 16 pages and you still wont tap out. I think you might hold the record for most pages on a pack build :-). Your pack looks great man now leave it alone and move on to the next one :cool: .

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PostPosted: April 14th, 2012, 2:11 pm 
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Exactly what I'm planning to do. Thanks for the advice. ;)


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