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The cartridge is removable from the carrier and the doors and lights operate (thanks to the Hyperdyne servo / lights controller board!).
http://www.hyperdynelabs.com/products_elec_ghostTrapServo.php
I will post a link to a movie of the trap in action.
If you need help connecting the servo to the doors, drop me a line and I will be happy to help. I didn't think it was easy to work it out, but I am happy to share how to do it, now that I have figured it out, so no one else has to "re-invent the wheel." My method uses some radio control plane linkages and would not be hard to duplicate.
The wires coming out of the quick connect fitting are the trigger wires for the light and servo board. Eventually, these will be routed back inside and connected to a remote control relay so that the trap can be activated via a keychain-type remote in my pocket rather than trying to run wires from a switch in the pedal. This way, the loom running between the trap and the pedal can contain a cable for strength rather than the fragile trigger wires.
Now for the tips:
The trap was built of bass wood (with a hardwood handle) following Sean's awesome plans and using mostly Colin's parts (http://www.multimediamayhem.net/). The vector plates came from phantom50 (thanks!). I used Dr. Sparky's great vinyl stickers.
I did the weathering by painting the primed trap with Krylon chrome spray paint. Once dry I painted rubber cement on all the edges and other high wear areas. Then I sprayed on the black paint. Once it was dry, the rubber cement peels off by rubbing with your finger, exposing the chrome underneath. Everyone thinks this basswood trap is made of metal!
Woodland scenics makes red transfer letters that can be substituted for the original Letraset ones, which are nearly impossible to find. Tower Hobbies has them here:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVR71&P=7
The best "bellows" for under the trap pedal is "Mighty Flow!" brand 2 7/8" diameter automotive air intake hose, available at Advance Auto and made by MOTORMITE, #96060. It also carries this number: Dorman 708-025
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=DOR&MfrPartNumber=96060
I cut two plywood circles just the right size to fit inside the hose snugly (2 7/8") and glued one to the underside of the pedal and one to the top of the baseboard. I drilled 5/8" holes in these plywood circles and mounted short pieces of 5/8" dowel in the holes. The pedal return spring (Century C-756, available at most hardware stores, cut slightly shorter) slips over these dowels on each end. Then drill a few 1/8" holes through the spiral metal band of the intake hose and use them to screw the hose to the plywood disks using #4 x 5/8" black, pan head, self-tapping screws.
I hope this helps everyone with a couple of steps which aren't well documented anywhere else that I could find. I am happy to answer any questions anyone has if you are stuck at any point. This prop was a blast to build. Once i finish the pedal i am moving on to the PKE meter!
Steve Harris
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Here's champagne to my real friends and real pain to my sham friends! |
