All of my kits thus far have the same switch and power connector setup.

They can be wired to work a couple different ways.

If you just have one kit or the other it should be pretty easy to figure out, but here's a crude diagram



If you have both kits and would like to run them off of one switch, here's how:



If you want the switch on your pack board instead, just pretend the labels are swapped in that diagram, it will work the same way.


v5 Wand Lights


When plugging in the barrel and orange lights, they can be plugged in two ways but they will only work one way. If it doesn't work, just flip it around. The orientation of the switches do not matter.

NOTES:

When inserting and screwing down wire, place the exposed (stripped) wire in the center and make sure the metal contact is pressing against it firmly.

When running a long wire from your gun to the pack, stranded wire is recommended (opposed to solid) but it not completely necessary.


Upgrade Version Mods

Click here for the online instructions and help file.

Feel free to PM me with questions.

Do you like to do it yourself?
If so, welcome to the fantastical world of microcontrollers!

Here is my little tutorial on how to make some decent proton pack lights. I have no formal training on this stuff, I just happened to have a PIC programmer from flashing mod chips. So I learned a little assembly and, after many frustrating hours, here is the result.

Might seem daunting to the electrical newcomer, but it can be done, just check out GBFans member AlmightyCornDogg's lights turned out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKvT2pCJFHs

And here's a link to what mine look like: http://www.gbfans.com/fans/videos/0uDjf5zMAuI/

This only covers the blue power cell lights and and red cyclotron lights. They are actually independent chips so you can use one or both.

What you need:
1) PIC programmer. I bought serial JDM programmer on eBay.
mine looks like this:
2) PIC 12F509 (cyclotron)
3) PIC 16F628A (power cell)
Note: you can also use 12C509, but beware those are not rewritable.

4) 12 blue LEDs (got mine on eBay)
5) 4 red LEDs (eBay again)
6) appropriate resistors for each LED (a very wide range of resistor values will work, I usually use 220ohm)
7) a breadboard is nice when working this stuff out
8) free flashing software. I like PICPgm for the 16F628a and PICProg4U for the 12F509.

Download the HEX file, source code, the bottom side of the main PCB, and a crude pinout HERE

I used the laser toner and hot iron method to make my prototype. Go to Instructables.com and run a quick search for "etch pcb" and you will find many methods of etching a circuit board.

I don't have a single sided PCB PDF for the power cell mounting, I made mine on some perf board. It is very crude.
For each pin on the PIC that will control an LED, the wiring goes like this:

PIC pin > resistor > +LED- > negative PIC pin.

Powering the project
These PICs like 5 volts, so shoot for that. I first used 4.5V (3xAA) and that worked just fine. However I have now switched over to a regulated 5V supply. Here's a nice one: [urlhttp://www.tkk.fi/Misc/Electronics/circuits/psu_5v.html[/url]

If you have questions, feel free to ask them in the comments.

Prices include basic USPS shipping (3-5 day). I will combine shipping when I can.

Spectra Strip rainbow ribbon cable, the stuff used in GBII, 3 left
- 2.5 feet for $13

3/4" Splitless loom - All gone for now
- 6 feet for $13
- add 2 feet of 1/4" split loom for $1

Pack light kit
small run coming soon


Payment options
PayPal only.

Ordering
PM with items, quantities, and your e-mail address and I will send a PayPal invoice.
I can also do custom lengths.


Thanks for taking a look and good luck with your builds.

Devin