So I can't let Julz have all the pchrisbosh1 shell fun around here, so I figured that it was time for an update as my progress continues. Lots of pics so here we go!
I wanted to first outline the electrical side of the pack. Since we know that the screen shells "floated" on the mobo, I used a bread board for the cyclo lights and scratch made a bracket to hold the power cell lights. This way, nothing is attached to the shell itself and it can be removed without having to worry about ripping out wires and the like. I used 1/4" x 4" carriage bolts and nuts to make a riser for the bread board. This way I could adjust the nuts on the fly to match the height that I needed to fit the shell. Worked like a charm.
I also wanted to match the interior of the screen shells as closely as possible. I used large flange rivets to hold all the parts except for beam line tube which is held in place with a hex bolt and washer to match the screen pack. Using a "one and done" method to attach the parts was a little unnerving because it meant that if something got jacked up or looked wrong, it would be a pain in the ass to fix. But in the spirit of building an accurate pack and trying to match the methods that the prop builders used (quick and sloppy), it was worth the risk.
Authentic ALICE LC-1 frame and straps and you can also see the foam padding at the top of the mobo. The foam is 1/2" thick to match what a few of us feel is the correct size.
And my take on the half-moon spacer. Everything is held in place with accurate 1/4" Phillips screws.
I happened upon some beefier 1/4" steel washers at ACE that I think are a much better look to the plain-jane 1/4" stainless washers I had before. These really look the part IMO.
When I last updated, I was still missing several key components. Everything is attached and in place, minus the filter, which I hope to have soon so I can finish this thing up. Here is how the pack currently looks.
Booster tube, frame, ribbon cable and accurate 1 1/8" UMPCO MS21919 DG-18 clamp.
I also replicated the glue holding the gear loom in place at the top and the bottom. The loom at the top is also held in place with a small piece of wooden dowel.
PPD with visible underside glue to match the Minnesota.
Sticking with the glue theme, I glued the injector boots in place as well. I was able to source a few pieces of accurate red Clippard 1/4" 3814-1 tubing. I'm simply thrilled to have this on my pack! It's the little details that make all the difference!
I've added a few upgrades to the thrower as well. This is the same thrower that I had during the back-end days of the Alkaline, but it has undergone a few changes. No IB door to match the GB1 hero throwers for one. Accurate Clippard 3814-1 as well, but I've had that for a long time already.
I also upgraded my 701 to an "new old stock" 701 with the accurate beveled cap. Again, it's all in the details!
Stainless female v-hook.
Accurate vintage Legris real-deal banjos with stainless screws.
I also added a AG-1B flash bulb for some detail. Unlike a few others out there, this doesn't actually flash, but it's a must have detail.
A few more glamor shots.
And last but not least, the biggest upgrade of them all. Very few packs have this feature, and in my opinion this is what makes or breaks a truly accurate pack, so it was worth the hassle. And that is a spring loaded front barrel.
Here's a quick video showing it in action.
http://s26.photobucket.com/user/Mark513 ... 0.mp4.html
Thanks for looking! Comments always welcome!
"Why worry? Each of us is wearing an unlicensed nuclear accelerator on his back."
"Its like they are hoping you die so they can keep your money."
"UPAS I DON'T KNOW WHAT UPAS MEANS."
My GB1 Pack! Mark's NEW Pack/Thrower Build! Round Two!