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I'm starting in on the n-filter danger label.

HPProps has the smaller, incorrect labels as white with black border. From the few screen caps, it is either grey or foil backed.

What color would everyone like it?

This might save you some trouble.

mburkit wrote:

This might save you some trouble.

Indeedy. Thanks!

Also, I plan on putting crop marks around the decals to make cutting easier.

• Needs Addressing
• Clippard R-331 valve label - done
• N-Filter Danger Label - done
• Winston's GB "Hero" thrower toggle decals
• Enlarge small red danger labels
• Shrink bumper decal and add rounded corners
• Guntrack labels
• No black outline on HGA label

Ok, just got done with the resized n-filter label. Stephan's plans have the n-filter at 2.75 inches. I know many people like including weld lines around the outer edge, so I've sized the DANGER label to be 2.375 inches across, which seems like it should be a good fit from what I can see in the screen caps.

jackdoud wrote:

kevinj319 wrote:That thrower is definitely unique, and I'm pretty sure it's the only time it's seen on screen. In the gozer encounter, all four guys have packs but none of them have that thrower attached. It might have been made specifically for that close-up shot. I also think it's the only thrower with a working bar graph. I noticed that this shot is the only time we see the bar graph move up and down, in all other shots where we can see the throwers turned on, the bar graph is solid orange.

That's because that's the hero thrower which is intended only for close up glamour shots. It's the only one with fully functional lights and it is attached to the hero pack. The only "functional" lights the other throwers had were the white blinker by the vents, the switched vent lights and the orange hat that indicated to the production team when the flash bulbs in the ends of the tubes were spent and needed to be replaced before the next take. All other lights were full-on and static.

All four hero packs had working bargraphs, why not? And yes it is attached to a pack, why not? And it turns out that it did and still does have the labels attached, they are just painted black.

• Needs Addressing
• Clippard R-331 valve label - done
• N-Filter Danger Label - done
• Winston's GB "Hero" thrower toggle decals - done
• Enlarge small red danger labels
• Shrink bumper decal and add rounded corners - done
• Guntrack labels
• No black outline on HGA label

Just got done tracing the MOTOR-SYNCHRONOUS label straight off of a reference pic. Using Stephan's plans of a 1.5" bumper and the ref pic, Scalled correctly in photoshop shows 1/8" above and below the decal... so I've sized the decal to be 1.25" tall with rounded corners.

I've decided to abandon the idea of crop marks simply due to the fact that they are taking up way too much space. I'd like to keep this to a single page. Instead of crop marks, on labels with white borders I'll use a hair thin (.5 point) gray line to show the edge.

Just finished off the HGA label.

I wasn't entirely sure how I wanted to handle the dot for the screw in the middle. In the end, I decided to shrink it down fairly small so that it would help people center the decal. In this size, you won't run the risk of having part of the black circle peeking out from around your screw.

However, depending on how you cut out your sticker, this could potentially make it tricky to leave a clean cut edge around the screw.

I see risks on both sides of this issue.



Does this work for everyone? (Not to scale!)

Does anyone know the exact measurement of the head of the screw that goes in the center? If so, I can simply make the circle exactly that size if that's what people want,

Let me know what to do!

valentino_42 wrote: you won't run the risk of having part of the black circle peeking out from around your screw.

What screw?

Cyland Props wrote:What screw?

There's a flat hex screw in the center of the HGA

As to the Hero pack lights, they all had fully-lit bargraphs but only one had one that moved.

There actually was no screw at the centre of the HGA, it's just a divot from a centredrill or the like.

Also make sure the HGA sticker is 1.25" OD. I think on the prop pdf, its too big.

namebrand wrote:There actually was no screw at the centre of the HGA, it's just a divot from a centredrill or the like.

I dunno. The reference photos look like a screw. It makes sense that there would be some sort of adjustment-type thing there, given the label.

Looks good so far.

Hard to tell about the screw:





That could be a flat hex screw or a smudge in the center of the hole. There's a cast pack with the same smudge though which complicates things:



so either it's a screw, the one pack with a smudge was the one cast, or a similar smudge was made on a second pack.

Started a new thread to keep from futher hijacking of this one:

http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtop ... =2&t=22698

Ok, we've debated WHAT is in the center of the HGA, but I'd really like some feedback on what size dot people would like on the decal to aid in cutting/placing the sticker.

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

mburkit wrote:Also make sure the HGA sticker is 1.25" OD. I think on the prop pdf, its too big.

Done and done! Thanks!

I haven't seen this picture before... Knowing the diameter of the HGA label, I cropped this image down to the raised section the sticker goes on and gave it a height of 1.25. Then, I used the measure tool to check the little divot in the center, and it is nearly .25" on the nose.

I came up with this graphic to give the best of both worlds approach to this particular sticker:


A larger .25" inch dot in a slightly darker red than the rest of the sticker with a small .0625" black dot for centering.

Thoughts?

Looks good to me, I think you're doing an outstanding job. Can't wait to see the final result.

BTW, you make it look so easy...

-KCG

I would love to see the HGA label look like a doughnut ( hole in the center) when you peel it off the sheet. That way when you place it on the HGA and add a hex head to the center ( or what have you), you'll have a nice clean finish around the inner perimeter. If you make it solid and the user has to punch through the center of the label with the screw/bolt, it may create some rips.

| alkaline | wrote:I would love to see the HGA label look like a doughnut ( hole in the center) when you peel it off the sheet. That way when you place it on the HGA and add a hex head to the center ( or what have you), you'll have a nice clean finish around the inner perimeter. If you make it solid and the user has to punch through the center of the label with the screw/bolt, it may create some rips.

I like the thought of this, but it adds whole new layers of complexity to this process.

Having it so that it was "ready to peel" from the sheet would require having additional shape layers (probably done in Photoshop) that would denote where to die cut the labels AND all of the labels would need to have "bleeds" so that there's additional color outside of the die cut area. Bleeds would be needed because the die may or may not fall exactly where you want it to, so you need some "wiggle room". Having these would require professional printing, and that's just not something I'm able to deal with at the moment.

Since this will be an unlocked PDF, people can freely make the modifications I mentioned, and I will encourage it!

Ah OK,

I assumed you were having them printed professionally. I admit I didnt read the whole thing I just kinda jumped in. Well maybe that's something you can work on for version 2 . I think all you would really need to do is, like you said, create a vector layer for the cutter to follow, then create a little bleed room.

| alkaline | wrote:Ah OK,

I assumed you were having them printed professionally. I admit I didnt read the whole thing I just kinda jumped in. Well maybe that's something you can work on for version 2 . I think all you would really need to do is, like you said, create a vector layer for the cutter to follow, then create a little bleed room.

Not a problem.

Yeah, once the dust has settled on these, I may approach them again and do just that.

Just wanted to mention that after looking at the reference photos compared to the HPProps decal sheet, there's quite a difference in size and proportion. Not to mention typos...



HPProps on the left and mine on the right.

Your efforts are appreciated man! Thanks for doing this

I'm working on the label for the top of the EDA-box.

Anyone have an idea on what this typeface is? There's a few sort of similar ones on my work pc, but just not close enough.

I may have something close on my home computer, but I won't be able to look until later tonight.

Any help would be great!

Looks like Microgramma or Eurostile (both from the same designers, both vintage fonts) to me.

WeeMadHamish wrote:Looks like Microgramma or Eurostile (both from the same designers, both vintage fonts) to me.

That did the trick!

I noticed more innacuracies with the HPProps labels after comparing them with the reference images. Compare it (left) with mine (right)

I also think the top foil label, positioned near the booster tube needs to be resized. Wait till I get home and check my notes on the subject.

wow I really love how much clearer yours are coming out.. gonna need to print off some to replace mine as soon as you're done the PDF!