User avatar
By Curtis Hart
#332911
I'm using these awesome, let me say that again, AWESOME plans and some good old fashioned Elmer's project board to make my pack. So far, so good. Only slight tab cutting modifications. ProtonCharger, you are my new hero right now. Don't know if it can be said enough, thanks for this.
User avatar
By ProtonCharger
#333036
Let's get started, how about some cereal?




First and foremost
Download the new Bumper files from here.
There was a link to an updated file here, but it's been added to A NEW archived file in the first post of the thread, located at the bottom RIGHT HERE: http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtopic.php?p=305434


We'll be approaching this differently than we have the usual stuff, making it in three parts with different materials to make one complete component for your pack.

You're going to need:
Some thick cardboard, left over from the spacer build.
1/8" styrene or sintra, I've been saying for a while now you need to get some. This is NOT going to be the first and only time you deal with this stuff for this project. Quit playing games and get some.
Some sort of Spray glue or adhesive. and sticker paper if you dont already have it.

Now, open the files up and get a really good look at them I have notes scrawled in capital letters and red ink, this means "pay really close attention to what you're going to be doing."

like this:
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SEE? IT SAYS DONT DO THAT. SO DONT.

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this is there a few times in this build.

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all of that. ALL OF THAT. all of that.

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THIS IS MEANT TO BE PRINTED ON STICKER PAPER
PRINT TWO COPIES.
CUT OFF THE TABS FROM THE RIGHT SIDE TOP.
THEN APPLY TO 1/8" STYRENE.


I should have something there that looks like "NO EXCEPTIONS" because there arent any exceptions. There isnt a decent enough alternative that's 1/8" thick, easy to work with that I know of. You will be using it for other things in this project. Trust me.

So, now we're cutting stuff out. Open BUMPER CENTER
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Now, what i want you to do, us cut off every one of those tabs that make the face of this piece.

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So it looks like this when you're done cutting it out.

You'll notice I dont have the first page cut out or pictures of it applied to AACDT like I said to on the paper... because I said to on the paper. I probably shouldn't have to say by now that you have to prefold...because you have every other time. It's second nature to me now with this project. So much so, that I had to redo it once out of 4 times, BECAUSE I prefolded everything.

BUT THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT
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See how I drew one there? Sure it looks like crap, but all you need is to make enough paper for that piece it attaches to to put a small dab of superglue on. Otherwise you're giving yourself more work if you dont do it this way.


Now you want to open FIXED BUMPER MIDDLE USED IN THREAD because that's exactly what it is. I have some alternatives if this over simplification looks too easy for you, ranging from completely making a bumper(which is just asinine of me to even bother making it this way because of how stupid hard it is ) to different ways of making it in separate parts.

rant over. open it.

Now on the second page it gets cut out and spray glued to cardboard, but this particular piece needs some extra TLC.
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I tried my hardest to be as clear as I possibly could, but you want all of those lines that will create a curve to be perforated, and taped, because you will NOT be applying it to cardboard. Also, it is perfectly 100% acceptable for you to cut the tabs off of that end also. I did. You want to do this.

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I didnt think I remembered to take a picture of it with out the tabs. This is exactly what you want to be doing.

I didnt take a picture of the rest of the stuff you're cutting out of this page, because they're going to be applied to cardboard. There's no need to use the AACDT except where noted, but I made sure to separate them so you can do everything you need to do at once, for each type of adhesive dealy.

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Here's where we're at. Well, before I cut those tabs off that piece. and PREFOLDED EVERYTHING.

Now you want to break out that thick cardboard, in the mean time, here's BOOBerry.


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I made a mistake here, that one on the right, you want to put the whole piece on cardboard. Except for what will make the "end" of the side.

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It's this one.

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You can see where I folded up one end of the center piece, you dont want cardboard to attach to that end, because it wont bend correctly. The same thing for the piece above this one in this picture, the end on the left will want to be folded and not touching cardboard.

Now. GO OUTSIDE.

Reason being:

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The SPRAY ADHESIVE OF YOUR CHOICE This particular brand I got from a job I used to have, it's a no name brand. What you will be looking for is a spray adhesive in the paint dept at walmart for 5-7 bucks.

This stuff is messy. It gets everywhere. It'll get in your arm hair. It'll get in between your toes. It's a pain in the ass to clean, and if you have to clean it off of something it takes time that you dont want to spend removing a ridiculously annoying adhesive from something.

If you do get it on anything:
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This will fix that. Dont get nail polish remover. It's garbage for this. You want REAL ACETONE. Nail polish remover does contain acetone, but it does not remove this stuff like it should, infact, it smears it around and makes it worse. Just get Acetone, because it's handy to have around.

Arrange your cardboard some where you dont care is going to be hosed down with a spray adhesive that is hard to remove from what you'll be spraying on.
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Then give it a nice even coat. One will be fine.


Wait 5- 10 minutes and then apply your pieces to the cardboard
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Like this...also check out the top piece before I noticed I should have planned on it needing to be all cardboard except the end of that part of the Bumper.

NOTE: Most of these spray adhesives recommend you spray on both pieces you're adhering together. Before I indefinitely borrowed this from the last job we put it on both pieces. For the sake of this project, since it's just small snips of paper, you dont need to. In other projects down the line, especially those that include different types of cloth and other materials, you should apply to both surfaces. If you want to do that with this one? Go for it. It'll be good to get in the habit of using this properly before you start using it with discretion.

Give it some time to rest, like, over night.

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Then gently cut it out with a razor knife, utility knife, or xacto knife whatever, as straight up and down you can get the blade as possible because later you'll be using the edge of the cardboard to rest and glue pieces on, much like you did the Spacer.

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Flip them over, and find where they bend and curve and all that. Then GENTLY AND CALMLY cut to the face with out cutting through the face layer of cardboard so it bends and retains it's rigidity, like you did with the spacer. On the curved parts, you want to make sure all the cardboard is removed up to the face surface of the cardboard so it curves. Then refold everything so it does what it's supposed to do.

Also, after all the pieces were on cardboard, in retrospect, I AACDT taped the "ends" of each side of the bumper from these pieces after I did this. I could have done it sooner, but it really made no difference when i did it, just that i did it. Go ahead and do it.

Now we'll be getting into Assembly, so, while you're cutting out the rest of the pieces for the BUMPER CENTER and taping them off watch this nintendo commercial 1 UP.


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The black line through those tabs means you can cut them off. Just cut off every tab that meets that front face piece:

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This one.

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Just apply the pieces by supergluing the tape side of the piece on it's "face edge" the tip of my index finger is where you should glue this piece.

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So you can see, it's fairly easy to do when you get going. Just take your time.

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Done. Next part.


You'll excuse me, but if you havent caught on, this update is going to take forever. so play this instead of cereal commercials.

So that first page of FIXED BUMPER MIDDLE USED IN THREAD

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All the black marked lines mean, where I didnt need the tabs. So I didnt cut them out. The left over tabs were cut and folded like normal. They are important because that's where you'll be applying the "face" of the bumper sides that isnt a "shelf" created by cardboard.

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This is what you need for this side. I lined everything up where it'll go. Now it's just like every other time putting it together.

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Close up on where things will be going. Line up and glue the end of the bumper...

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and then follow along by gluing on that taped edge of where the piece will rest on the cardboard. Repeat.

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It was much easier to assemble the top and bottom to the cardboard piece first then attach the rest of the center of this part. Same goes for the other side of this project.

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See? Same thing.

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All done with that side too.

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I'm sure you've caught on some of these pictures are blurry. This is an example of why how something that's worked all along can be an asshole just for the sake of being an asshole. My regular camera doesnt take pictures near as well as my phone. ANYWAY. you SHOULD BE USING 1/8" STYRENE OF ANY COLOR that you printed 2 copies of the file BUMPER THIN TOPS on sticker paper and applied.

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Close up of one side.

SO the trick for this is. SLOWLY, CAUTIOUSLY, AND CAREFULLY score the sides of each of the sticker pieces with your blade straight up and down. You want to take your time with this. I mean, literally, each piece should take you a minimum 30 minutes to score to the point that it's ok to pop them out of that styrene. If you rush through this, your sides will be crap. repeat for every piece you need to cut out of the styrene for the Bumper.

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YAY BLUR. so you can tell that the bottom one, goes on the bottom, then there's the middle, and then the top.

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I'm pointing out, you want to make that edge, meet the inside edge of the bottom piece flush. Glue on the middle piece then flush the pieces.

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Repeat for the top.

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After you super glue all the seams, front and back, this side is all done! Now get started on the other one.

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Man, it doesnt fit at all. So, watch where im going to point out where to cut:

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Here on top and bottom

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Just like this. I had to cut it a couple more times when I was applying the top and bottom to make it flush.

Now just assemble this side like you did the other side above and super glue all the seams. If you didnt have to cut? Awesome, go you. I had to. Nothing's EVER just easy for me.


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Here, you want to line up everything so it sits flush to where it meets on the BUMPER CENTER. Both sides. I didnt take a picture of the other one. ANYWAY. You want to superglue the styrene and use it as a guide where you make it permanent, this goes with both sides.

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When you have the styrene glued down, you want to glue the middle from the back of the piece. This goes for both sides. If there are some gaps, use the superglue to fill them a little.

Check out my first one:
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Lookin good huh? This is the best bumper I've ever made. Ive ALWAYS hated this part. My first pack didnt have a bumper. my second? a crappy one. 3-7? shitty ones. this one?

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I was so stoked I had to make a second one for my girlfriend's pack.

It's ok they're upside down for the sake of showing off.


NEXT TIME!?

I start on the thrower body. Im getting excited how close we're getting to resin and bondo so I can finally get into teaching new materials for most of you.
User avatar
By ProtonCharger
#333190
Are you going to back fill that bumper(s)?
Yes. when it comes to the point where im bondo/resining the pack, i'll be filling it in with Rondo (bondo and resin mixed) then sanding it smooth.

BUT for your type of build, you could just print out an extra page of the centers and use that, since you're doing it with styrene. i may even have some other files in there that you might find useful.
User avatar
By ProtonCharger
#333796
While everyone's catching up with the bumper, I'll be putting together another belt gizmo and bleeding all over it.
Hopefully that shouldnt take so long and i dont lose too much blood, so I can get started on the thrower Ive been so eager to get started on.

ALSO

I found, THE BEST most hidden plastic piping for almost all of the pipe on the pack IF you arent concerned with making your pack with metal parts. When I found it, I was like


I mean, we're no where near that yet, but pay real close attention to this thread:
http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtop ... =2&t=25357

and toddle over to the plumbing department of homedepot where they hide the sink extensions. I'll give a run down of what I bought later on, because In some cases, I bought the pipe so I wouldnt be putting small pieces of pipe close to a saw (if i even go that route cutting it).

small warning i didnt figure out if pricewise it would equal out to be about the same as aluminum...
User avatar
By ProtonCharger
#334184
I decided not to bother with the gizmo today since Im a little behind where I want to be with this project, so I went to work on the Thrower.

This thing is fairly simple to put together. Go ahead and download(IF YOU HAVENT ALREADY), print on cardstock, cut out and apply aacdt to it.
There was a link to an updated file here, but it's been added to A NEW archived file in the first post of the thread, located at the bottom RIGHT HERE: http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtopic.php?p=305434

HOPEFULLY sometime this week I'll toss this sucker up here. I'm still looking for really good reasonably priced grips that dont have any bubbles or flashing, recommendations are welcome by pm only.

I'm looking at ewoki13's at the moment, does anyone have ewoki13's grips from ebay?
User avatar
By ProtonCharger
#334405
WOAH

I had one pm for grips, that helped me make up my mind.

Hopefully you all downloaded and printed the recent gunbox file. I have some things I need to mark that you dont need to cut out, so dont get too crazy cutting everything out, if you want to get on that.
Outside of that, there wont be many pictures of it before I start assembling, because you should be used to cutting things out and taping them by now.

I like to think about where things are going with this project at that "in between place" where you're sleeping and awake, when you wake up in the morning and realize you dont have a job or anything important to do and you're actually on a 2 year and counting depression because you're unemployed, so you're trying to fall back asleep and think about what should be the most mundane thing possible so it just so happens to be the one thing that if you think about it hard enough it keeps you from falling back asleep.

Anyway, I decided that the original gun bracket file I made wasnt good enough. MOSTLY because I wont be using it for my personal build, you know...because Im making a GAME PACK and it's gun bracket is A LOT different from the movie pack gun bracket. SO.

I made it easier for you to assemble yourself using ONE SHEET OF STICKER PAPER and 1/8" styrene (that i KEEP TELLING YOU TO BUY) and 1/4" styrene (THAT YOU SHOULD ALSO GET SOME OF)

Here's the file. Sorry in advance I wont be showing you how to work with it in this thread, but come on. If you can cut the bumper's parts from styrene using a sticker as a cutting pattern, you can do this with your eyes closed. You're a big kid, you can do this, I have faith in you.
There was a link to an updated file here, but it's been added to A NEW archived file in the first post of the thread, located at the bottom RIGHT HERE: http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtopic.php?p=305434
User avatar
By ProtonCharger
#336265
WILL YOU POST THE DAMN UPDATE ALREADY?!
Listen. It's not like Im putting off this very important update for a lot of you keeping up, even though I am. I've been busy working on other things and Im updating alot of my game pack models for my personal packs (it seems like I'll never actually ever be done modeling this thing).

Anyway
, the thrower, My second thrower's current state is:

Cut
Perforated
Prefolded
Taped.
Re-perforated.
Re-prefolded.

I got this idea in my head the other night to model the front handle assembly from TJ's new plans located here: http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtop ... =2&t=26375

because it would be beneficial for me, to figure out that, to transfer to use of the same pvc pipes i have situated for the packs.

THEN I THOUGHT
well, why dont i just go ahead and get the parts together and assemble the thrower's handles and sort out a way to make a rotating barrel? hell, while you're at it, how about you finish the trigger ears and do a trigger tip? you know, you could just hold off on that until you have everything situated and then do an all inclusive sexy thrower update.
So that's what I'm doing. everything's sorted, here's proof!
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I ran into a problem this afternoon when I was working with the mitersaw we have. NO straight cuts at all. I'm very po'd. What good is a chopsaw that doesnt give straight cuts? I'm going to be looking into bigger diameter pipe cutters this afternoon, maybe i'll use that, since that's what most of you can get at a reasonable price. Give me a couple days and I'll have the coolest update ever next to the Bumper, and it will include my updated trigger ears and tip file.


SMALL NOTE:
Those of you that have made the PPD box sleeve for the booster tube, turns out the two I made work with a 2" pvc pipe from home depot. it's od is 2.375, while not accurate at all, it's very close. so if you didnt WANT to make it in favor of a 2.5" aluminum pipe and covered it or didnt cut it out, you're fine. It sleeves wonderfully or...gripped like a warm friendly hand.

...

Also, could someone other than me post in this thread? I dont want to look like that crazy guy talking to himself.
User avatar
By sagedismal
#336774
I can't wait to see the resin, bondo, and fiberglass process. Hopefully we'll get to that soon. I've never worked with resin, bondo, or fiberglass before and I'm a bit nervous about using it.

I've been working on my pack for about a month now and I've just about caught up with you. I just have to do the Bumper and I'll be completely caught up. lol Also, I'm still taking pictures of the finished pieces and putting them on my group's blog if you guys want to take a look. http://dallastokuforce.wordpress.com/

Keep up the awesome work PC! ^_^ Can't wait to see your finished game pack! ^_^
User avatar
By ProtonCharger
#336815
I can't wait to see the resin, bondo, and fiberglass process. Hopefully we'll get to that soon. I've never worked with resin, bondo, or fiberglass before and I'm a bit nervous about using it.
It's not so bad. We're VERY close to it, I have some game stuff to finish off, and prepare for resin before I get into resin-ing my packs.
I've been working on my pack for about a month now and I've just about caught up with you.
I checked out your build, and noticed you're using the files with ribs. Are they any easier than the ones with out ribs?

FOR THOSE OF YOU FOLLOWING ALONG AND ARE WONDERING ABOUT RESIN

As it stands for a movie pack, if you WANTED to get ahead, you probably could, even though I totally dont recommend it. I mean, if you're familiar with resin and stuff like that, and Im just holding you up go for it BUT I wanted to do it and post about it with issues I run into that other people might, mix ratios (yeah right) and stuff like that.

I also have been getting together a file that will be "flat" type stuff (cyclotron rings, injector tube lids and plate, eda disks, thrower bar light frame) you'll have to print specifically on sticker paper for varying widths of styrene, I just cant make up my mind when would be appropriate to release them, being before or after resin.

Actually anyone's input on that would help, release before the resin or after?

Make up my mind. First three replies with one or the other, that's what I do.


UPDATE ON WHERE IM AT

FINALLY, I figured out a way to get straight cuts that took alot of finagling with my chopsaw and all my cutting for pipe is done. I also modeled new files for GUN EARS and a TRIGGER TIP (i havent released them before, they'll be entirely new). I hope to have them together, find some pvc pipe glue for part of my rotating barrel and some game stuff by this weekend. Pics of the thrower box are taken, when I get the rest of the stuff done I'll share my results.

I'll even make a shopping list for the specific pipe fittings I'm using for my thrower handles and rotating barrel since I arranged this project for use of PVC pipe, with the exception of the 3" aluminum nfilter.
User avatar
By sagedismal
#336943
I checked out your build, and noticed you're using the files with ribs. Are they any easier than the ones with out ribs?
I wouldn't say easier, but i like the way they've turned out. The only problem piece I had to work with was the Gun Mount Box with Ribs. The bottom right corner was a complete pain to work with. Also there were some pretty large gaps that had to be filled with scrap card stock. I'm hoping that bondo will help smooth out those problem areas. If not, then I'll probably just go back and do the one without ribs on that piece. The Crank Generator and the Power Cell look really good though.
I also have been getting together a file that will be "flat" type stuff (cyclotron rings, injector tube lids and plate, eda disks, thrower bar light frame) you'll have to print specifically on sticker paper for varying widths of styrene, I just cant make up my mind when would be appropriate to release them, being before or after resin.

Actually anyone's input on that would help, release before the resin or after?

Make up my mind. First three replies with one or the other, that's what I do.
I think you should release them after resin. Those pieces will be attached after the rest is fully completed anyway, so why not wait until after everything is fully assembled and cured? They shouldn't be too difficult to cut out of styrene and attach.
User avatar
By gEkX
#336991
I think you should release them after resin. Those pieces will be attached after the rest is fully completed anyway, so why not wait until after everything is fully assembled and cured? They shouldn't be too difficult to cut out of styrene and attach.
+1
User avatar
By ProtonCharger
#337022
Welp, 2 out of three votes. I'll release them after resin. All I have left before this next update is the gun ears to assemble, so in the mean time:

HERE'S A PREVIEW OF THINGS TO COME!
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My thumb was too tired to be crooked in this shot.



There are a couple files I want to release before I resin though;


One is this little "block" that goes into that empty space on the bottom of the powercell model. I figure it'd be easier to do before resin, than after.

The other is that bottom middle plate of the spacer that's thicker than the rest of them.



I wont have any pictures of either of them, because they're just blocks, not really worth an indepth update. When I get around to assembling them I'll post them here.
Also...I cant WAIT to reorganize the files i have uploaded and put them all in one download instead of all over the damn place.
User avatar
By ProtonCharger
#337486
This is THE LONGEST UPDATE YET so... you GET THE LONGEST SONG EVER.



Here we go, fortunately for you, if you havent downloaded the new gun file or the new bracket file, I decided it would be easier to cram them with the gun ears in one file.

IN THIS FILE:
There was a link to an updated file here, but it's been added to A NEW archived file in the first post of the thread, located at the bottom RIGHT HERE: http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtopic.php?p=305434
YOU GET:

The Thrower body
2 ways to create the bracket and bottom plate
Trigger tip (with two ways to make it) and Gun Ears.


Open up your Thrower body file FIXED GUNBOX ATTACHED TRIGGERBOX. Take a real good look at every part.

PUT A BIG OLD X THROUGH THIS PART.
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Because you wont need it. I figured out one afternoon while assembling, that i can just make a whole file for you to print on sticker paper and apply it to different sized styrene and not need this part. This is one of them that will be in that file.

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You CAN cut these out, and use them as sleeves for your thrower handles, I didnt, because I thought it might be better with out them. Do what you like, they're there for you to play with.

The same goes for what would be the bottom piece to the thrower box. You dont HAVE to cut out the inside of it, making it so you dont have to cut out the piece that goes inside that either. In the long run, it might be easier on you if you didnt cut it out. I'll show you what it is later on in this build.

You can pretty much cut everything out now that you have a heads up about these two parts.

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This shows where that frame i told you not to worry about cutting out will go. For the sake of my thrower, I didnt cut any surface holes from the piece out, I'll be doing that after I resin it. I marked all of them ahead of time, by crossing them out, or paying real close attention.

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These top vents would be retarded to cut out right now. Resin would pour everywhere and they'd be disgusting looking. It's easier to make them solid, then dremel and drill them out later.

Anyway, prefold that sucker and throw some AACDT tape on it.

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Then glue it together! also, PUT ON THE OTHER SIDE!

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This is the Rear Instrument Bar prefolded and taped for your health!

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Easiest way to attach the RIB to this, is align it on the outside to the bottom of the side, and superglue on the inside.

SO FAR, SO GOOD!

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TRIGGER BOX!

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TRIGGER BOX PREFOLDED TAPED AND READY FOR SUPERGLUE!

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TRIGGER BOX SUPERGLUED AND ALIGNED TO THE RIB!

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Ok enough of that, take the trigger box and align it to the numbers on the outside and hold it's tabs on the inside of the rib. Then superglue the outside.

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Extra picture of where to superglue on the outside.

After the trigger box's superglue on the outside cures, superglue the crap out the inside where the tabs meet. Also, there's a little "nubby" tab for that back square, push that guy from the inside to flush with the rib, and superglue the heck out of it.

I didnt superglue these until I was finished with the body, so I could finagle them flush then i superglued them on the inside and the outside:

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This is the inside of the bottom of the thrower box:

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Looking back at it, you could go either way with this part too. It's not necessary to cut out, the inside of the bottom piece, but for some reason I did, and this is how it's assembled.

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Pay real close attention to how this piece works, because I actually had to redo it, because i folded it backwards.

Then align it on the inside of the flat part of the thrower bottom...this is the piece i said you dont need to cut out, because it will raise some problems if you accidentally rip that thinner part of it cutting it out or assembling the inside piece with it. Anyway, I lined everything up

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and flipped it over and superglued the inside

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i dont remember why i took that picture, but maybe you superglue over the tabs like we've done before on so many other things where we superlgue the inside of something.

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Gingerly slide it in to the bottom of the thrower body and superglue the tabs on the inside. Go at this any way you're comfortable with. I went elaborate and taped one side, and opened the other and glued tabs on the inside all the way around.

CALL THAT ONE DONE:
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TRIGGER EARS:
This is the left ear if you're holding the thrower, there's a strip of small tabs on small folds, it's easier to leave them solid while you're applying tape, then cut them.

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This is the right ear, you'll notice some slight curves on it, and no fold lines. I perforated lines there between the tabs so it made that curve, applied tape, then cut the tabs. easy.

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DONE.
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THE FRONT HANDLE

Here's all the parts:
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Thin wall 1" PVC pipe - I have to see if i have any left over of that particular size, what I have on my phone is:
20010 1" PVC 1120 SDR-21 PR 200 PSI (there's some other crap that goes here) D-224 at lowes

3 of these female adapters from the PVC pipe section at Home Depot:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R ... key=Search

1/2" pvc pipe - any sch will do. You want to have clearance inside for a screw(later), wires and your trigger mechanism for your clear acrylic tube(way later). You wont use a whole lot, so a 2' stick will be MORE than what you need. Frankly you just need to have enough to go inside 2 adapters.

#48U COMPRESSION SPRING 3 1/4" LENGTH X 3/4" DIAMETER .47 WIRE GAUGE
- ace 3 bucks? There was a similar one to that, if your ace hardware drawers are a mess and cant find them it was 182 or 187

You also want to take notice that Ive kind of laid out where everything goes.

So take this:

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and PVC glue it.

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Even glue around the inside of it.

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I cut the "front handle base" at 2" because i want mine to go inside my thrower box some. It will make it stronger of an attachment with resin on the inside and outside of it. Glue the inside of the handle base and push in the adapter until the nubbies are flush with the edge of the base.

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Then glue the inside like this:

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Then take another adapter that will be the one that goes inside the handle
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Pretend you're ignoring the screams of agony the adapter is screaming because it's being put in a vice

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Then route, dremel, drill or sand HALF of the threads out. if you drill all of them out, and it's flush, that will be the adapter that goes on the front of the handle.

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It should look like that^

Take that adapter with half of it's threads drilled out, the other one with the handle base and get a REEEEEEEEEEEALLY small screw(not literally, but small enough to be able to support someone tugging) and a drill bit that goes with it. Put them together and do this:

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You want that hole to be drilled at a good spot, roughly middle towards the threads of the adapter that goes inside the thrower handle all the way to the center of the 1/2" pvc pipe. Then take out the handle base w/ 1/2" pipe out of that adapter and get a drill bit the size of the head of the screw and drill out that hole you just made from the adapter:

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That^ then drill three more times in a row about 1/2" - 3/4" in length. It helps to reassemble the pieces for the rotating barrel assembly to make it work the length you want it to work.

Like this:

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And This:

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Mark your screw, with an arrow, transfer the arrow to the handle base, then start pushing your rotating assembly into the handle, this distance that's exposed of the back adapter is a nominal distance. I went with 1/4" because im going to need that space for my game thrower, that actually might be too much. Unfortunately, i dont know the space distance that's supposed to be there. "Nominal" doesnt quite cut it for me. Anyway:

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Like this:

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You'll notice you have to glue it, but it's ALLLLLL the way down that hole. I took a wire, dipped it in that pvc glue and wiped it around where it met the inside of the handle and the adapter. It was too dark in there to take a picture after it was glued, so here:

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Dont put the adapter that goes on the end in the pipe yet, you need to leave it open to get your spring for the pop out mechanism and your acrylic tube squared away before you close it off.


This is my spring set up so far:
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talk about no brainer.


HERE'S WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE RIGHT NOW:
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I THINK WE'RE READY FOR RESIN.

While you all keeping up are probably ready for it...IM NOT I have a whole mess of stuff to make for my packs before they're ready. So, I'll be putting this build on a slight repose until Im situated with my build for resin. If you would LIKE to know all i need to do:

Figure out:
Brackets the slime thrower attaches to on the front handle of the thrower

Assemble:
Meson Collider upgrade thrower body
Meson Collider upgrade thrower bracket
Slime PDS upgrade thrower body
Slime PDS upgrade thrower bracket
Slime thrower cap
1 slime tank heat sink bodies
2 slime tank heat sinks
2 crank box vents

Bondo:
Slime tanks
Slime thrower (when cap is assembled and resined)

Sand:
1 slime tank heat sink body.



HOPEFULLY I'll have that stuff started tomorrow.




During my pause, if you're using pvc pipe for your pack, you might want to start looking in the drain section of home depot and get:

2" pvc pipe for your booster and your hga (unless you want to use a coupling for that cut to size)

2 of these for your injector tubes
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R ... ogId=10053

I didnt count how many you'll need for one, but plan it out before you go for everything else.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R ... key=Search

The only exception is the nfilter which we will be using aluminum for.



That's it for now, If there are any questions about everything up to this point, dont hesitate to ask!
User avatar
By ProtonCharger
#337881
EH, SCREW IT.

I decided to release all the extra files before resin, because if I didnt, Id have more separate files all over the place and Im trying not to have a cluttered mess of files. I wont have any walk through for these, because they're either simple boxes or printing on styrene and cutting it out.

THE LAST FILE THAT I KNOW OF
There was a link to an updated file here, but it's been added to A NEW archived file in the first post of the thread, located at the bottom RIGHT HERE: http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtopic.php?p=305434
IN THIS NEW ARCHIVE YOU WILL BE GETTING:

POWERCELL UNDERPLATE
- this will go into that "cavity" in the powercell pep box, it's easier to put this together, and put it in that slot before you resin, than the other way around. This is the #1 reason why I went ahead and released these final files all at once.

BOTTOM SPACER PACK REST - it's that rectangular shaped cosmetic plate slightly shorter but thicker than the rest of the spacer's plates. You can do this after resin, or before, but either way, this MUST be filled totally with bondo, so it's a solid rock hard block (so you may rest your pack on it.)

INJECTOR TUBE RECEIVING MODULE - The injector tubes wires plug into this thing. It rests on top of a cosmetic plate on the spacer. Might as well plan ahead to make this a solid block too, because it may be easier to screw it from the inside of the spacer to the spacer plate.

FILE OF PARTS TO MAKE FROM STYRENE
- this consists of cyclotron rings, eda/ppd disks, the plate the injector tubes are "welded" to, injector tube lids, the thrower bar graph frame, the thrower rear instrument bar plate, and the circle plates that go on top of the spacer. YOU MUST GET 1/8", 1/16", and 1/4" styrene for this file to be any kind of use to you.

REAR CYLINDER
- It's modeled for a 1 1/4" pipe (drain pipe is what im using, linked in last update). Print this on regular printer paper, wrap it tightly around a bondo filled pipe cut to size and dremel out the shape. It's what I did, and it came out really good.

SPACER COSMETIC PLATES - I know this is a pdf, but, it should be 1:1. Print it on sticker paper, then adhere to 1/8" styrene and go to town.

LIFEGARD2
- Just in case you missed the post I made in a Lifegard 2 thread. The only difference is I remembered to put my name on it this time.

THAT'S IT.

We should be all up to date on the pepakura files, and the pack. Like I said in the last update, when Im set up with my game pack stuff to resin, I'll get more in depth with resin for the project. I finished a game thrower bracket last night, in really good time, I just have to wait until the weekend for some of the pages i gave my girlfriend to cut out for me.

Seriously...the game thrower isnt NEAR as big as some of those other people= made theirs.
By Filandrius
#337888
Also, could someone other than me post in this thread? I dont want to look like that crazy guy talking to himself.
Well, when I watch a really compelling TV show, I don't talk with the TV.

Seriously, keep up the good work. Can't wait to see that thing finished.
User avatar
By zakuz
#338360
Wow this is turning out amazing, i may have to use the pep files to make a new thrower, great work man!
User avatar
By ProtonCharger
#341066
WE'RE ALMOST READY FOR RESIN

I have just a few more things to assemble, and they should be done in time for next weekend to start applying resin to the face of everything.

My list of assembly stuff:
Assemble:
Meson Collider upgrade thrower body - DONE
Meson Collider upgrade thrower bracket - DONE
Slime PDS upgrade thrower body- DONE
Slime PDS upgrade thrower bracket- DONE
Slime thrower cap X 2 - DONE
2 slime tank heat sink bodies - DONE
2 slime tank heat sinks- DONE
2 crank box vents- DONE

I'm going ahead and assemble these now and resin them at the same time I resin the pack(you probably should do this too, even though we all think it's best to do it later, you'll see why when I get down to resin):

2 Powercell underplates - DONE - I finished this one first, and already attached it to the bottom of the powercell in that space, because it would be easier to resin, and attach before resin.

These two dont HAVE to be done before resin, but it would be easier to do all the resin at once.
2 Bottom Spacer Pack Rests - WE'LL BE PLAYING WITH RONDO! THIS IS WHY!
2 Injector tube Receiving modules - WE'LL BE PLAYING WITH RONDO! THIS IS WHY!

Bondo:
Slime thrower assemblies (when cap is assembled and resined)

Sand:
Slime tanks
2 slime tank heat sink bodies.
2 slime tank heat sinks (vents are cut out. now i have to figure out how to make them smoother on the sides and back.)

Here's where Im at right now with MY two packs (since making a separate build thread may not be the greatest idea even though my packs are game packs, but this is a "How to Make a Pepakura Proton Pack" thread): dont get anxious because, you've known all along Ive been working on a game pack, I just want to show off my progress.

The two slime tanks are on the bench right now, with gaps filled with bondo waiting to be sanded. The heat sinks at the top are waiting to be filled and re-sanded (they've been quite the pair of assholes), and I have their vents that need to be dremeled out....you can also see in this picture what I have so far of the game pack vent.
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The game pack vent has been the most infuriating part of the scratch building game stuff. When I get everything to make it, I find out Ive been looking at it wrong. I THINK I have it figured out now.

Booster Tube Collars for the Slime upgrade finished:
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Here's the Meson thrower for my pack:
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Here's the Slime upgrade thrower for my girlfriend's pack:
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Here's our packs where they stand (and hopefully yours with out the game upgrade cosmetic plates):
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Like I said, very soon we'll be ready for resin, then I'll have a fairly in depth update with that one. From final assembly to atleast a layer or two on the inside.
By pchrisbosh1
#341116
I have to say PC your doing a bang up job on this. The work your doing looks very meticulous you must have a lot of patience. Get any paper cuts yet? It's amazing some of the things I've seen built up with pep files some of my favs being a 1:1 ED-209 and a Terminator rifle but that's another topic. I could tell this build is going to come out mighty fine, look forward to the finished deal.
User avatar
By XxEctOxX
#341152
this is nuts man, i really have to hand it to you. cause i would have gave up a long time ago
User avatar
By ProtonCharger
#341286
You said you won't be releasing the game files freely. Does that mean you won't release them at all?
I'm still trying to figure that out. IF I do, the pepakura files probably will not be free. There are alot of pepakura modelers that sell their files, considering the work I put into these:

modeled and unfolded a regular pack
remodeled and re-unfolded if something needed to be changed or doesnt work right - almost never happens from the original modeler
made a thread to show how to build from them - almost never happens ever from the original modeler
modeled and unfolded game upgrades using those files and months of drawing and redrawing something that defies all laws of physics

I can see why they would be so inclined to sell their files. I gave away the regular movie pack, it would be totally dickish of me to not do that because everything I used for that was free and I want people's budget packs to not have electrical or pencil boxes. Drafting and Design is what Im trying to get gainful employment doing, not hobbyist prop replicating stuff. It would be my best interest to sell them, at most to get my name out there.

While I dont think that selling them go over so well, it's not meant for people that wouldnt like the idea of paying for them anyway. That's why Im on the fence, either they'll be released for sale for 20 - 40 bucks (depending on upgrade and X$10 for the CAD file; for many reasons I wont dive into to derail my thread), or not at all. Most likely, not at all.

Sorry, all that to come to the conclusion that Im undecided if they'd released be for sale or most likely not released at all. It is what it it is.


AS FOR AN UPDATE


Today Im focusing all my energy on making this stupid vent work(lots of soldering and filing solder). Then tomorrow I'll cut out, tape, and assemble the remaining stuff I need to do. My plan this weekend with out fail is to at least have the packs assembled into one piece ready to be resined, though Id LOVE to have the resin started this weekend.
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