User avatar
By Vincenzo330
#315369
I thought I would try to do something useful Today :) I'm going to compile a list of aluminum parts & suppliers if you'd like to try your hand at making your own proton pack parts.

I'm going to assume that you have access to the proper tools for this project, this is not really a tutorial as much as it's just to help you locate the accurate metal stock.

I'll be offering up some measurements that I know for a fact are screen accurate, any measurements that I cannot confirm will be marked with an asterisk (*).

So here goes...

Beam Line & Filler Tube
Image
They are cut from 1.25" (1-1/4) diameter aluminum tubes
They each measure 3.875" (3-7/8) tall.

This is the metal stock that you'll need
http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4571-837 ... minum.aspx

You'll want to order them cut to 3-3/4" lengths and you'll have to weld on 1/8" thick lids with a 1.1875" (1-3/16) diameter.

These will then need to be welded to 1.5" (1-1/2) x 1.5" squares (these were not perfect squares on the screen used packs).
The squares are 0.125" (1/8) thick.

EDA Disks
Image

The EDA disks are cut from 1.1875" rods.
http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-2447-836 ... ruded.aspx

They are approximately 0.25" (1/4)* tall (they were not cut perfectly even).


HGA
Image

Image

The HGA's tube measures:
A: 2.5" (2-1/2) Outer Diameter
B: 2.25" (2-1/4) Inner Diameter
B: 0.125" (1/8) Wall

It is cut to 2.375" (2-3/8) long.

The lid for the HGA has a 2.375" (2-3/8) Diameter and is 0.125" (1/8) thick.

Here is the correct stock
http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4596-837 ... minum.aspx

Image


Booster Tube
Image

The outer tube is made from the same stock as the HGA and the inner rod is made from the same stock as the Beam Line & Filler Tubes. Stefan's plans should be a fair reference for the lengths and angles of the Booster Tube.

The inner plate is 0.125" (1/8) thick and has a diameter of 2.25" (2-1/4).



N-Filter
Image

The N-Filter is made from 3" OD "thin wall" tube.
Dimensions:
A: 3" OD
B: 2.870" ID
C: 0.065" Wall

It should be cut to 3.5" (3-1/2) Tall and has a 3" diameter lid which is 0.125" (1/8) thick.

Here is the correct stock
http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4617-837 ... minum.aspx


PPD
Image

A: 1.25" (1-1/4) OD
B: 1.0" (1) ID
C: .125" (1/8) Wall (Thick Wall)

The total height of the PPD is approximately 3.1875" (3-3/16)*.
This part gets filled with resin and then chopped at a 135 (or 45) degree angle.

Vacuum Tube
Image

The Vacuum Tube is made from the same 1.25" OD Tubing as the PPD.
It is 2.5" (2-1/2)* tall and is welded to a flat aluminum disk.
The disk is 0.125" (1/8) thick and has a diameter of 2.25" (2-1/4).


Injector Tubes
Image

A: 1.5" (1-1/2) OD*
B: 1.370" ID*
C: .065" Wall*

The Injector tubes should be cut to 6.375" (6-3/8)
The lid is 0.125" (1/8) thick and has a 1.4375" (1-7/16)* Diameter
The tubes are welded to a 0.125" (1/8) thick plate which is approximately 3.25" (3-1/4) x 1.875" (1-7/8)

This is the stock that I'm assuming was used
http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4575-837 ... minum.aspx


Rear Handle
Image

The Rear Handle is made from "Thin Wall" Tubing
A: 1.25" (1-1/4) OD
B: 1.01" (1-1/10) ID
C: 0.12" (3/25) Wall

From the top of the handle where it meets the gun body (at the weld line) it measures 8.5" (8-1/2).

Metal stock
http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4573-837 ... minum.aspx



Mounting Brackets
Image
In GB2 they used angles with the dimensions:
A: 1/4"
B: 1"
C: 2"

The pieces were cut to 1" wide as seen below.

Image

In GB1 they were all cut to 2" wide which does not fit well on the bottom of the cyclotron.

My recommendation is to get them all cut to 1.5" Wide as it gives more room for error while installing the rivets and still fits well in the cyclotron area.

I couldn't find the correct stock at Speedy Metals but if you want to order everything from the same place then this is a good replacement.
http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-2197-834 ... ruded.aspx
Like my previous posts state I bought all the metal parts I needed for fairly cheap. So I was going to print out the template and take it to a machinist to have all the caps cut out for brazing. Well I started digging around online and found a company that sell the caps for each item. And figured I would post the links to each. So here you go.

http://handrail-fittings.sharpeproducts ... resortid=0

HGA 2.375 disk 1/8 thick Item # 9229
You would have to use the same size for the booster plug and grind it or file it because the next size down is 2 inches even which would be too small. You need one for HGA cap and 1 for booster plug. price is $2.99 a piece

Filler tubes/beam lines. 1.1875 1/8th thick. Item # 9206
This is 1.25 so again minor filing or grinding to make fit. You need 2 Price is $1.20 each


Injecter tubes. 1.4375 disk 1/8th thick Item Item # 9212
this is 1.5 inches so again you would have to grind or file down very little to have correct size. You need 2. Price is $1.28 a piece.


N-filter 3.0 disk. 1/8 thick Item # 9244 You need 1. Price $5.37 each


Now for the plates that you attach the tubing to you need to go to a diffrent web site. This is the link.
https://www.metalbytheinch.com/t0/c135/ ... sheet.html

For the squares for the filler tubes/beam line you need to select .125 fot thickness, they do not go by 1/8th. Than you pick 1 and 1 1/2 by 1 1/2. Like VinC said the ones on the screen used pack are not an even square so you can play with that if you want. You will need 2. Price is $ 0.53 a piece.

For the rectangle that the injecter tubes go on you need .125 width and it will be cut to 3 1/4 by 1 7/8. You only need one.
Price for these are $0.82

They are also expensive with shipping it is $16.01 to NH. thats 4 6 squares and 3 rectangles. It may be cheaper to go to HD and find some 1/8 thick 2 x 36 inch flat bar http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R ... ogId=10053 .

Again Thank You VinC for getting all the tubing and 1/8 cap and plate info. I hope this helps you guys.

For the plate that the injecter tubes attach to you need a 3 1/4
ProtonCharger, Jin, mykumn and 1 others liked this
User avatar
By Vincenzo330
#315431
I need to confirm the length first which, I'll be working on today. The other problem is, I've been able to tell, from various sources the thickness of all the other tubes. With the Injectors I can only imagine that it's thin wall tube, though I have no proof.

This is the stock that I have in mind
A: 1-1/2" OD
B: 1.370" ID
C: .065" Wall


http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4575-837 ... minum.aspx
User avatar
By parksdesign
#315435
I need to confirm the length first which, I'll be working on today. The other problem is, I've been able to tell, from various sources the thickness of all the other tubes. With the Injectors I can only imagine that it's thin wall tube, though I have no proof.

This is the stock that I have in mind
A: 1-1/2" OD
B: 1.370" ID
C: .065" Wall


http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4575-837 ... minum.aspx

Are we sure about the OD as well? I read in another thread—I think it was Filandrius' pack build—they they thought it was 1-3/8 OD on the injector tubes. Something about calculations from Namebrand on the tube baseplate.

This is the reason I asked. I'm a little confused about the diameter now.
User avatar
By parksdesign
#315437
I'll be confirming today, that's why I haven't posted anything final yet. I lean more towards 1.5" OD just by having a good idea of the sizes of other parts but I'll post after I'm sure.
Cool. Thanks for doing this.

Just a suggestion, but maybe you could post the dimensions and stock for the injector tube base plate as well?
User avatar
By Tyrael
#315444
I'll be confirming today, that's why I haven't posted anything final yet. I lean more towards 1.5" OD just by having a good idea of the sizes of other parts but I'll post after I'm sure.
Stefan's plans agree with the 1.5" OD measurement.

The site also has sections of square 6061 1/8" thick aluminum for those squares/caps are made from
https://www.speedymetals.com/p-2406-18- ... plate.aspx
Looks like you can either call them for custom sizing or just order the 12"x12" plate and cut it yourself.

Vince, you are a god among men for this post. I'm thinking I'll be ordering plate and tube parts for my belt gizmo thanks to the awesome prices of this site.
User avatar
By Vincenzo330
#315445
Awesome.

And you used the pictures I made... plus some new ones... sweet. :D
Ah, so that's where they came from :) Thanks for doing those, I saw them in the new wiki's that Jack has been playing with and I added a few that I couldn't find yet. This is going to be a great year for GBFans!
Cool. Thanks for doing this.

Just a suggestion, but maybe you could post the dimensions and stock for the injector tube base plate as well?
That was the plan ;)
This info couldn't have come at a better time! Thanks so much Vince! :crunch:
Thanks Nick, You're someone who's opinion I greatly value so if you have anything at all to add or if you see any discrepancies please do let me know.
User avatar
By Vincenzo330
#315446
Stefan's plans agree with the 1.5" OD measurement.

The site also has sections of square 6061 1/8" thick aluminum for those squares/caps are made from
https://www.speedymetals.com/p-2406-18- ... plate.aspx
Looks like you can either call them for custom sizing or just order the 12"x12" plate and cut it yourself.

Vince, you are a god among men for this post. I'm thinking I'll be ordering plate and tube parts for my belt gizmo thanks to the awesome prices of this site.
Just trying to do my part until TJ's new plans are finally finished (which should be pretty soon I hear)

I'm also going to release a template which has all the flat pieces accounted for so that you can take it to a laser or water jet cutting place. You may have seen the one's I added to my Motherboard template but I have since realized that they need some minor tweaks.

Image

The Booster Tube & EDA Disks need some minor adjustments. I'll also be removing the Beam Line/Filler Tube Lids (since they are solid stock) and replacing them with the Injector Tube Lids & Mounting Plate.
By Cyland Props
#315449
Beam Line & Filler Tube
Image
They are cut from 1.1875" (1-3/16) diameter solid aluminum rods.
They each measure 3.875" (3-7/8) tall.

These were the most difficult stock to track down but I've located a part number of 6061-7651 QQ A-225/8 and they are available at Speedy Metals.com
http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-2447-836 ... ruded.aspx

These will need to be welded to 1.5" (1-1/2) x 1.5" squares (these were not perfect squares on the screen used packs).
The squares are 0.125" (1/8) thick.

Image

I'm fairly sure that those pieces were tubes with caps welded on. They turned them down on a lathe to remove the weld bead. The lumpy nature of the edges suggests that either they did that or had one heck of a poorly tuned bandsaw.
User avatar
By ProtonCharger
#315471

N-Filter
Image

The N-Filter is made from 3" OD "thin wall" tube.
Dimensions:
A: 3" OD
B: 2.870" ID
C: 0.065" Wall

It has a 3" diameter lid which 0.125" (1/8) thick.

Here is the correct stock
http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4617-837 ... minum.aspx


LOOKS LIKE I'LL BE FIXING MY FILES. :/
User avatar
By Vincenzo330
#315563
Beam Line & Filler Tube
Image
They are cut from 1.1875" (1-3/16) diameter solid aluminum rods.
They each measure 3.875" (3-7/8) tall.

These were the most difficult stock to track down but I've located a part number of 6061-7651 QQ A-225/8 and they are available at Speedy Metals.com
http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-2447-836 ... ruded.aspx

These will need to be welded to 1.5" (1-1/2) x 1.5" squares (these were not perfect squares on the screen used packs).
The squares are 0.125" (1/8) thick.

Image

I'm fairly sure that those pieces were tubes with caps welded on. They turned them down on a lathe to remove the weld bead. The lumpy nature of the edges suggests that either they did that or had one heck of a poorly tuned bandsaw.
I'm not completely discounting that theory but there are "streaks" on the tops of those bars which are exactly like the streaks where the PPD was cut. If they had used caps the tops would be smooth and not have cut marks. It looks to me that all of those parts were cut by a water jet.

Image
By Cyland Props
#315781
[I'm not completely discounting that theory but there are "streaks" on the tops of those bars which are exactly like the streaks where the PPD was cut. If they had used caps the tops would be smooth and not have cut marks. It looks to me that all of those parts were cut by a water jet.

Image
Sander marks. Besides all of the packs have the chunks out of the "beam line" , it just speaks to me of clean up of welding beads. They probably started out as 1 1/4" and were ground down to what you believe is 1 3/16"
By Cyland Props
#316075
Ok I thought of a major game changer for the beam line, why it's hollow. Remember that these are held on with pop-rivets, pop-rivets need a void on the other side for the rivet to squish into to hold it on. A solid walled hole gives no area for the rivit to grab to.
User avatar
By Vincenzo330
#316084
That's all making sense and is very probable it's also possible that they drilled out a space for the rivet head to reside in before they welded on the bottom plate although that's probably less likely.

So the question is, if using hollow tubes do we go with 1-1/4" or try to find 1-3/16"? I know the lid measures 1-3/16" and visually that's probably the way to go. The other thing is, solid stock will be easier to work with for a lot of people and even though the original GB1 pack parts were attached with rivets, I personally prefer jpa35's method of hex bolts. With solid stock there will be a lot more surface to screw into for some extra grip. Just some stuff for you all to consider when purchasing your metals.
By BobStantz
#318510
I'm not completely discounting that theory but there are "streaks" on the tops of those bars which are exactly like the streaks where the PPD was cut. If they had used caps the tops would be smooth and not have cut marks. It looks to me that all of those parts were cut by a water jet.
For what it's worth, I was cutting some aluminum stock for the beam and filler tubes today with a horizontal bandsaw, and the cut marks are exactly like those pictured. For the PPD, I didnt want to order resin, so I just got a length of 1.25 round bar from the local metal shop, drilled a deep hole on one end for the hose, then chopped it at 45 degrees in the bandsaw.

If anyone here is in the East L.A./San Gabriel Valley area, Industrial Pipe and Steel in South El Monte had all the material listed here in stock. http://www.ipstool.com/

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