User avatar
By legend642
#4841395
For the shell I used an old dark gray solvent paint jar, that my father kept in the corner of basement, seems still usable and I added a black concentrate dye, then I added an additive to roughen and applied to my shell with brush.
For all metal parts i used flat black paint.
User avatar
By legend642
#4841448
Today I noticed that ceramic sockets too wide in the upper part, 15 light bulbs do not get into power cell, can contain only 11 lightbulbs.
I tried to remove the excess of each sockets ... Fortunately it worked! :-D
Now get all light bulbs but only 13 will be visible from power cell lens.

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This is the the first part of the bracket for the electronics light board, the inside of the bracket will contain the battery.

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User avatar
By mburkit
#4841496
Oh man, your electronics are coming along great! I have plans to do something similar in my GB1 hero pack; I'm going to be wire-wrapping my own circuit to run incandescent lights. I just haven't gotten around to actually do it yet. Keep it going!
User avatar
By legend642
#4841600
Thanks,
I'm trying to replicate electronics hero proton pack at least in appearance.
Be very difficult to identify components since I saw only one photograph in low resolution.

I'm not an electrical engineer, I limited to use the same components of FC2 Electronics Effects Board and used a DIP switch bank to replace jumpers.
I ordered some parts that look similar to the original (old stock of Allen Bradley 22 Ohm 1/2 resistors).

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alphabeta001 liked this
By twmedford23
#4842992
I've been following your thread for ages - your pack is definitely the best when it comes to painting and weathering. What I'm wondering is, how did you paint your shell exactly? I believe you used a solvent and a dye, but which did you use exactly? I am about to try the dye method on my own shell and want to make sure I do it right. Did you also paint the various parts(ion arm, booster, HGA, etc) using the same method?
User avatar
By legend642
#4843008
I will try to explain that better.
My father before he died (2005), has left many expired paints in the
basement, some have thrown in the trash, but I found a jar dark
gray paint that seem still usable. Unfortunately paint jar was unlabeled,
but by smell I perceived to be a paint with nitro solvent, observing under
the light, I think certainly contains metallic pigments.
Added a concentrated black until color that would satisfy me, then added a little to rough additive, but additive have not worked good, I have obviated by
creating surface roughness dabbing paint with brush when have started to
dry.
But I must admit that if I had to redo the paint would more dark.

For metal parts (booster tube, HGA, ion arm, PPD ...) used to flat black.

For painting the shell and bumper I used a small soft paint bristle brush.
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Last edited by legend642 on July 2nd, 2019, 4:04 am, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
By pyhasanon
#4843370
I love how those resistors peek through the cyclotron lenses...
legend642 liked this
By twmedford23
#4843389
You mean THE most accurate? I know that's what you meant 8)
Lowberg wrote:I love this thread, from the hand painting, the incandescent bulbs, weathering, this has got to be one of the most accurate looking builds I've seen as far as having the feel of a real screen used pack. Loving it!!!
User avatar
By legend642
#4843405
Since I have never seen inside of Minnesota hero proton pack, I carefully observed photographs in reference section to see if through lenses cyclotron see hidden details, I may have seen something interesting... or maybe I'm hallucinating :vinzclortho:

In super hero proton pack the blue proto boards have a toggle switch on the upper right, while in Minnesota pack seems to be near the lower left bulb.


Sony lobby proton pack
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Minnesota proton pack
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