By HalfShelter
#470612
Hey guys! Is anyone planning to do any mods to there Neutrino wand? I noticed the Banjos are going to need a coat of brass paint, and the window lights do not move up and down on there own. Maybe there is a way to fix this? What kind mods do you guys have planned? : D
User avatar
By Higgs1
#470614
Probably have to wait until people have these in their hands to really dig into any modding possibilities. I think some paint would definitely be in order, but the electronics I'm doubting we could get much done. I know people talked about the goggles and not much happened besides paint.

We will see soon enough I suppose!
By Gareee
#470680
I'm wondering if the rumble feature will cause failure over time? Typically anything mechanical wil eventually have issues. (Some people have seen trap mechanical issues already.)
By HalfShelter
#470719
thunderstruck507 wrote:I would like to see about running outputs from whatever speaker it uses to a small amp and/or bigger speaker in the pack if possible

I've been wondering this too. On the review they showed a plug in at the back handle. This could be an audio jack for the pack if they ever make one. Im going to try and plug it into a speaker.
By Krenzy
#470722
I honestly believe that it doesn't transmit audio, but rather the signal for the supposed future pack's lights, much like how the pedal for the trap doesn't light up unless it is connected...it even uses the same type of connector.
User avatar
By AJ Quick
#470740
I've already covered this numerous times.

The 1/8" audio jack does not transmit any audio. It is used to transmit a signal (and perhaps switching power) to signal that the wand has turned on. It works the exact same way as the Ghost Trap does.

If you plug it into the speaker, you will hear an audible click or pop when you flip the switch, nothing more.

Hook it up to a oscilloscope if you want to know what it is actually for.
SPJ, maranzintosh, J_Brickman and 1 others liked this
User avatar
By DekaPrime
#471199
took some pulling but I was able to get the rubbery green wire off the wand.sheered off one end but still it came out. The brass fittings from my other wand are a touch to small to fit. I think what I'm going to try to do is find a nut thats the same size as the whole left behind, superglue that in and then thread the fitting on top of that. Even with the real green cord sticky tacked in place it looks 100% better then it did. Mine got squished in the box so the stock wire was never going to be the right shape. Going to have my dad paint the banjoes on the end too.
Lastly I found that I've had the v-hook on my thrower backwards for years. once I reversed my hooks I was able to get the matty thrower to attach no problem. It sits a little low so I think I'll keep an eye out and see if MMM makes just a flat part that I can put on and have it sit a little higher.
Also looking out for someone to create a light kit that will plug in the gun and turn on with it so I can finally light my pack.
SPJ liked this
By Krenzy
#471204
It will never look "right" because there is no recessed area inside the gun handle for the hose to hide; even if you used a cork with an audio jack mounted at the very end of the hose, you will still have an awkward gap, and honestly it'll probably put a good amount of pressure on the output jack. It will work, but it won't look "right", IMHO.
By ecto88mph
#471205
I was thinking of doing a combination of the cork/jack idea but also see if I can find some PVC piping that is slightly larger then the handle that would fit snuggly over the end to help bridge the gap. Idk their has to be a way to do this.
User avatar
By Mr_Stay_Puft
#471273
I picked up my Mattel Neutrino Wands today and it did not take me too long to make a modification. I took some PVC and made a coupler for the end of the wand so that the hose can be attached.

I took a piece of 1 1/4" PVC and fit that around the end of the wand. I wrapped a piece of duct tape on the inside so that it fits snug. I then epoxied a piece if 1" PVC into the end of the 1 1/4" PVC. This allows the 3/4" split loom with some duct tape wrapped around the end to be attached to the end of the coupler. The best part is that it is removable and requires zero physical modifications to the wand itself. With some paint it should match quite well.

Here are some pictures.

Image

Image


Image
Demon Vice Commander, Kingpin, SPJ and 3 others liked this
By ecto88mph
#471278
Very nice! Yep this is what I'm doing. Also it makes the end look like a plug as if you could quick disconnect the hose to do maintenance or swap out throwers.

What are the lengths of pvc you cut
SPJ liked this
By JoeLuna33
#471284
AJ Quick wrote:Has anyone tried opening the gun up, and just removing the end plug?
I've taken apart a small amount of the Neutrino Wand. The end cap seems to be glued on. It also appears that the gun body, front handle, and rear handle are all independent assemblies that slot together.
SPJ liked this
By DefenderDarko
#471293
The jack is theoretically there to support a connection to a proton pack. If you think in toy prop standards, the hose would just have a blunt end with a stereo jack. I'm sure Mattel has tested it or they wouldn't have left the feature in.

I plan to create a hard end on the hose and epoxy a jack in it and see how sturdy it is. At the very least, if we can't get it to work, Mattel definitely can't either and just wasted a bunch of money installing a live jack in the handle.
User avatar
By DekaPrime
#471423
Mr Stay Pufft I love the idea, so I went out ,before hitting up the parents for Christmas dinner, and got to Lowes.
Now I found several pipe coupplers that fit the same size requirements that Mr.SP is talking about but most if not all of them would take some modification. That's when I found this
Image
This part is 1 1/4" in diameter and fits on the end of the gun very snug. I can't remember what it's called but total cost was $1.50
After some paint
Image
and attached to the hose.
Image
Now two things about my hose. 1. It's split so it doesn't really want to close. 2. it's a little long, so I cut off a small length and not quite wide enough, so I too some of the scrap and wrapped it on the other side to fill in the gap.
A clear rubber band from one of the 12" GB's and we get this
Image

And a little video to go along with the pics.
http://goo.gl/CniI22

It's really nice and snug and I have no worry that it'll come off. When I display my pack there isn't enough room in the case to hook the thrower on so I put it on the side, this make that much easier as I can just pop the hose off.
The rubber bands are a tamp measure, I intend to affix the hose much more permanently to the coupler soon.
You may also notice the missing green wire. I got some nuts that are just a touch to big so I'm going to sand down the sides a bit and put them in the holes left behind by the rubber green hose and then I can fit the clippard valves and the more accurate green hose on it. Lastly going to paint the banjos a nice brass with silver nuts and call it a Hero Gun.
One thing everyone has talked about is how light the gun as and frankly I am thankful. That resin gun I had was pretty heavy and weighed down the right side of the pack really bad. Now it's much more easy to put on and take off and the addiction of the throwers lights and sounds have improved my meager pack quite a bit.
Happy Bustin'
And I'll see you next mission.
Mr_Stay_Puft, SPJ, ringskirts and 3 others liked this
#471823
I use Testors brand model car enamel. Hobby Lobby is where I get mine. "Steel" is what I used on the above, it's kinda gray and dull and I'm kinda disappointed with the color. "Aluminum" is a better choice and what I used in the past. I used "Brass" on the banjo fittings and painted them normally, the wear spots are done as follows:

You want to get a small to mid size brush (not the tiny detail brush) and dip it in the paint and then I wipe the brush on newspaper just a little, I don't try to go for a "dry brush" so much as just make sure the paint isn't going to run, this makes a chipped or scraped look. The only time I drybrush is when I want to create a spot that looks more like rubbing wear than a scratch or chip. Just keep brushing the area with a nearly dry brush until it looks as worn as you want.

I usually hit sharp edges or places like screw heads to make detail stand out. Then I look for places where my fingers would rub and drybrush wear in those areas. I did some heavier chipping on the bottom gun track to simulate wear from trying to slide it onto the pack and missing.

Next step will be "blackwashing" the knurls in the knobs to make them look old and dirty, some ash residue look for the barrel tip, and I want to stain the white label on the left side of the gun box with used motor oil so it doesn't look new and clean. I also want to add some kind of numbering to the top knob to show whether it's on "high" or "low". Debating dry brushing the gun grips with some brown like the GB1 guns had. Also want to paint the black non functional light hat some color just not sure what yet.
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • 10

Using rip-stop cotton and custom dye for each char[…]

The journey from commonplace to Ecto-75.

Whole car is great but the pack trolly...how?

Proton Props???

If anyone here is still pondering ordering from th[…]

I haven't done the new update to the Spirits Unlea[…]