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I recently bought and am awaiting on the arrival of a thrower kit from TC to go with a pack I just bought. The guy I bought the pack from also threw in Jupiter light kits for both the pack and thrower, will the light kit work with TC's thrower?

I got my TC thrower kit and went out and got a tap and die set so I can tap the holes and get it built, so can someone please tell me what size tap is the right size tap to use on the holes?

6-10 screws for the posts.

I'm fairly new to this experience (the building, having to tap holes, everything) so I'm sorry for the new questions, but the set I got has 6-32 NC 8-32 NC 10-24 NC and 10-32 NF, which one of these would be the right one?

The difference between NC and NF is corse and fine tread.

Thanks, I just noticed it says that on the packaging the set came in too< but I honestly don't know what that means.

Sorry, I was on my mobile when I sent off the message above, I meant 6-32.

Thanks TC!! Is that for all the holes that need to be tapped (bottom of the gun box, the trigger box, knobs, Clipard, etc.) or certain ones in particular?

I never tap holes, but if you are going that route you'd want to tap the 6 on the bottom using the 6-32 bit, and the rear cylinder with the 10-32 bit. I *think* the hose barbs and Clippard Valve screws are 10-32, but you should double check on those.

ThrowingChicken wrote:I never tap holes

Oh, other guys made it seem like that was the way it was suppose to be done earlier in this thread, so I assumed that's how you meant for it to be done as it is your kit being discussed.

ThrowingChicken wrote:but if you are going that route you'd want to tap the 6 on the bottom using the 6-32 bit, and the rear cylinder with the 10-32 bit. I *think* the hose barbs and Clippard Valve screws are 10-32, but you should double check on those.

Hopefully one of the other guys who've tapped the holes can chime in and confirm or not if it is correct. But again, thanks TC!

The clippard screws are 10-32, the hose barbs are 10-24, because why not be different!

Thanks Kredal

How big is the brass rod that goes in-between the gun body and trigger box suppose to be?

1/8th inch diameter. I just eyeballed the length on mine, it's somewhere around 2 inches long from where it comes out of the hole, and then the part that goes through the body is just long enough to poke out the other side and be captured by the small silver knob.

Thanks again Kredal!

Started my thrower on Monday. I'm waiting for my rear handle that should arrive tomorrow. The only issue I have so far is the barrel is a little loose. I have it set at a 9 and 12 o'clock when it rotates. The barrel is a little wobbly. I think I might have filed too much off in the slit. I'm thinking I might need to redo the tube in the front handle. It's going so well. Not sure if it's something I can fix or if I have to just adjust the tube and redo the holes. Also I drilled one hole and used a sharpie to draw a line then tried to drill holes along the line. I think I should of just used the top tube and rotated the barrel and drilled more hole using the top as a template. I don't know this is the first thing I ever built like this. Any thoughts?

Hey tc you said in your post the rear handle should be 9". Is that once it's mounted in the body and the exposed part should be 9" from the top of the handle that's exposed?

How wobbly is wobbly?

I go 9-9.5" total.

It doesn't like bend in the opposite direction. It's just a little loose. I don't want to be anal retentive I just want to make sure it's okay

If the tube is loose then maybe put a piece of tape on it to take up the slack.

Ah okay will try it. Thanks. By the way NO complaints at all. If there's a problem it's one I created. I couldn't be happier with it.

Looking good so far tc. I will post some pics soon. I wanted to ask though what colors in the hobby paints do you use? Like a brass or gold and metallic gray or silver or something else? I know it seems trivial I just want to get as close to yours as possible.

This kit is absolutely amazing. I only need a few parts to complete it. Even without those parts it's still fun to play with. I really cannot recommend this kit enough!

I know this is an old thread but it has a lot of great info. I just purchased a thrower from TC and a light kit from GBFans. Has any had any success installing the button and LED into the wand ears?

I saw on this thread that you can drill down the long end of the ear into the tube. I can do that. My concern is that the button switch looks too thick for the molded ear.

Any help would be much appreciated.

I bent the prongs to fit the switch completely inside, however it sticks out the bottom in the movie.

Thanks TC. I don’t mind it sticking out the bottom If that’s how it is in the movie. Are there any pics to show what that looks like?

Oh yes, check the thrower referenced in this album - http://www.gbfans.com/equipment/reference/33/40/

They have covered the opening with heat shrink tubing, but you can still see the prongs and wires sticking out.

I'm wracking my brain trying to figure out how to feed the trigger tip connector/wire for the momentary switch through the forward handle.

Since the kit has the grip molded to the front tube, I can't simply feed the wire between the tube and grip. I am considering drilling at an angle into the corner under the momentary switch so I can feed the connector into the tube.

I'd love to know how everyone else has managed this.

I usually drill a hole down the length of the ear, then put putty over the end to seal it up.

Thread necromancy!

Does anyone have tips for mounting the grips to the new set up? I just purchased my first kit and noticed that the front grip is no longer molded to the front tube and the tube itself has a raised channel for what I assume is running wires from the ear at the front to the main body. The problem is that it prevents the grip from sitting flush so there's lots of empty space and it wobbles a bit.

The back grip no longer has holes to mount it to the rear tube, should I just drill through it into the tube?