#4803058
Let the updates flow through you...!

Mounted the ion rod. This was actually more difficult than it looks, just getting it lined up exactly and holding it in place. But, alas, holes marked and drilled.
Image

And tapped with 10x32 or 10x24...can't remember which.

Also added the correct screen accurate resistors. Got the no disc PH-25, and RH-50 with the logo. They were hard to find, but worth it! Those holes came pre-drilled and tapped from Chris, so it was just simple 4-40 screws to get them on.
Image
Image
Image
#4803099
Mounting bumper made me the most nervous, but was actually really easy to do. First step was to find the center of the inside of the bumper.

My bumper is from Nick a Tron by the way and is beautiful!

Image

Followed by getting the mounting holes. Basically just find your center on the outside, measure up 3/4" for the first hole and then 1" up from that for the second hole.
Image

Then, after pouring over hours of reference photos, I eyeballed a good location, using the inside center lines and mounting holes to determine where I would be drilling on the shell.

Sit the shell flat on the ground, sit the bumper over it, step back and observe, and adjust.
Image

Image

Image
Once you've picked a good location, I used a pen to mark through the bumper holes onto the shell.
#4803100
The left side of the bumper holes ended up lining up directly between the cosmetic plates. The right side was just barely higher above the seem between the plates. Mounted like this the bumper sits almost perfectly level on the pack when you have it on.
#4803104
Looks good! I've been meaning to look at where people tend to drill to mount the bumper since the halfway point of the synch gen is in between the cosmetic plates. Seeing that yours is pretty damned close to the midway mark makes me feel better.

Also, tapatalk drives me bonkers.
#4803105
Hijacker wrote:Looks good! I've been meaning to look at where people tend to drill to mount the bumper since the halfway point of the synch gen is in between the cosmetic plates. Seeing that yours is pretty damned close to the midway mark makes me feel better.

Also, tapatalk drives me bonkers.
The left side of the pack is directly between the plates, right down the seam. The right side is the picture I posted where it's offset. If you drill the right side directly on the seam, the bumper won't sit level.
#4803344
Hijacker wrote:Remember, the exact drilling points will change from shell maker to shell maker. I know my seams on my buck are on plane with each other, but I'll see how it looks after the mold's made.
This is true, and also true for the bumper locations from pack to pack in the films.

This is something however, that I have slaved over more than any other part of the pack as far as reference photos and build threads go, to try to get the bumper location just right and find that sweet spot in between pure screen accuracy, and aesthetic tastiness.

Am going to attempt some more updates today after I see how Tapatalk behaves.
#4803370
Here is what nice been doing. Type out my text on the computer and quickly hit edit on tapatalk and add in my photos. Worked yesterday with my hose update.
#4803374
PssdffJay wrote:Double post. Argh!
Ok. So...Tapatalk is being a total a-hole right now, and it looks like it's not just me. In an attempt to coerce Tapatalk into Tapacooperating with me, I have attempted the following:

1) Deleting and reinstalling the app.
2) Yelling at the app with various obscenities.
3) Apologizing for my yelling, and asking nicely instead.
4) Retracting said apology and waterboarding my iPhone.

So far my efforts have been for not.
Next I will attempt intimidation via 30,000 RPMs with the dremel. It has worked in the past with uncooperative pack parts.
#4803429
35FT_TWINKIE wrote: I just need some feedback from anyone willing to chime in on my PPD mounting....it's racking my nerves! :roll:
Sorry for being a little late to the game.
I went with both positions on my second pack. I put a toggle switch behind it so I could do the elevator scene from GB1. It is after all the primary power distributor. Though, after I finished I though of using a slider switch instead so as to keep my seams flush. Next pack. Though if the PPD does move, it would explain the different positions on movie packs
#4803449
35FT_TWINKIE wrote:
PssdffJay wrote:Double post. Argh!
Ok. So...Tapatalk is being a total a-hole right now, and it looks like it's not just me. In an attempt to coerce Tapatalk into Tapacooperating with me, I have attempted the following:

1) Deleting and reinstalling the app.
2) Yelling at the app with various obscenities.
3) Apologizing for my yelling, and asking nicely instead.
4) Retracting said apology and waterboarding my iPhone.

So far my efforts have been for not.
Next I will attempt intimidation via 30,000 RPMs with the dremel. It has worked in the past with uncooperative pack parts.
I second this course od action vigorously
#4803811
This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

Alright. So I'm going to be making a trip to the hardware store monday for a big purchase and need to know about some fiberglass in particular. There are a few spots on the gbfans shell that are kinda thin that I would like to beef up on the inside.

I've seen different opinions on whether to use the fiberglass mat or strands....?
I've seen some say you need to use a spray adhesive prior to laying it, while others have laid it directly into the shell....?

Also, anybody have an opinion on the bondo-glass or bondo hair? One is short strand, the other long strand, but I have never worked with either.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CINDQ ... SY200_QL40
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000VKZ3J ... SY200_QL40
#4803819
35FT_TWINKIE wrote:
PssdffJay wrote:Double post. Argh!
Ok. So...Tapatalk is being a total a-hole right now, and it looks like it's not just me. In an attempt to coerce Tapatalk into Tapacooperating with me, I have attempted the following:

1) Deleting and reinstalling the app.
2) Yelling at the app with various obscenities.
3) Apologizing for my yelling, and asking nicely instead.
4) Retracting said apology and waterboarding my iPhone.

So far my efforts have been for not.
Next I will attempt intimidation via 30,000 RPMs with the dremel. It has worked in the past with uncooperative pack parts.
Reminds me of the time I murdered a laptop; blunt trauma causes them to explode apparently. :mrgreen:
#4803828
35FT_TWINKIE wrote:Alright. So I'm going to be making a trip to the hardware store monday for a big purchase and need to know about some fiberglass in particular. There are a few spots on the gbfans shell that are kinda thin that I would like to beef up on the inside.
I may not be of help but how large are these areas? For the thin spots on my shell, I beefed up the inside with Milliput. Easy to work with. Bonds well. Strong as crap. But I'd limit it it areas about the size of a silver dollar. I need to post an update in my build thread showing where I did this.
#4803843
This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

Unless you are trying to cover a large area the long strand bondo should be all you need.
for surface prep you just need to rough up the surface and wipe it with some lacquer thinner, just don't
get any on the outside or it will etch the gloss coat.

35FT_TWINKIE wrote:Alright. So I'm going to be making a trip to the hardware store monday for a big purchase and need to know about some fiberglass in particular. There are a few spots on the gbfans shell that are kinda thin that I would like to beef up on the inside.

I've seen different opinions on whether to use the fiberglass mat or strands....?
I've seen some say you need to use a spray adhesive prior to laying it, while others have laid it directly into the shell....?

Also, anybody have an opinion on the bondo-glass or bondo hair? One is short strand, the other long strand, but I have never worked with either.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CINDQ ... SY200_QL40
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000VKZ3J ... SY200_QL40
35FT_TWINKIE liked this
#4803933
Use mesh, the messy one. It's really easy, cut the piece to size. If area is larger than about 6-7 inches, section it into smaller pieces..
The mesh fibers actually separate a bit with the resin so it takes on just about any shape.
With cloth, you have to really plan for going over curved areas.
35FT_TWINKIE liked this
#4804073
CPU64 wrote:Use mesh, the messy one. It's really easy, cut the piece to size. If area is larger than about 6-7 inches, section it into smaller pieces..
The mesh fibers actually separate a bit with the resin so it takes on just about any shape.
With cloth, you have to really plan for going over curved areas.
This was my thinking as well. I really want the strength of the real fiberglass over the reinforced bondo products.

I called my auto body guy...he did the tail lights on my ford from page 1...the bed being composed entirely of fiberglass. He also built me my custom fiberglass center console that houses my speakers and amps. He knows fiberglass like nobody else. From what he told me, the fiberglass is the only thing that's gonna add the structural integrity I want.

The bondo glass and bondo hair are really nice for finishing work, when you want a little stronger top coat, but won't sand as smoothly as non-reinforced bondo.

I'm still debating on whether I want to redo my N Filter with an aluminum one, but if I do, I'll need the fiberglass for that too.
#4804140
We patched in one of my N-filters on a buddy's pack a few weeks back. We cut a piece of ss (22ga) and bent it to have the curve of the filter, and it had remaining tabs to attach to the shell. We pre-drilled 2 holes in the ss sheet so it'd be easier to drill clearance holes for the 1/4-20 screws. We then used fg resin and mat, and it turned out beautifully. Solid as sears with the ss sheet under the fg.
#4804143
I replaced my N-filter with one of Eric's as well and, while tedious, was pretty simple. I just used a dremel, epoxy putty, and a lot of epoxy and its solid as a rock. Very happy with how it turned out!
#4804404
Eric, that is awesome! That's exactly what I was planning to do...it helps out a lot having something to visualize in front of me though. Any particular reason for using stainless though? I have a bunch of aluminum sheet I was planning on using.
#4804412
Ejgunth87 wrote:Its the same stuff I use for my female v-hooks. I'm sure the aluminum sheet will be ok too.
That's what I thought. Originally i was going to use some type of card stock, like in drjameshouse's build. But, I have a bunch of 20-24 gauge aluminum sheet I'll be using to build electronics shelves. Seems like I found another use for it.
#4829828
Hey Patrick!

Yes. That is the ion rod from the GBFans shop. It is top notch.



And to everybody else, no, I am not dead! I have been absent these last few months. I apologize for my disappearance. As many of you may know, I moved into an apartment complex and work was slow and difficult. Well slow and difficult turned into non-existent due to circumstances outside of my control. Alas, I will be able to resume work and posting pictures within a week.

So progress?

Yes, have some.
Positron Props GB1 Pack Build

Awesome!! Good luck on your build! Tom's shell i[…]

Trailer posted for release for the Frozen Empire u[…]

Trivia, callbacks etc I noticed so far *Cover A *[…]

Matty Trap - Replace Pedal?

Has anyone successfully transferred the pedal elec[…]