[csullivan1980]

Five hours of work.

[NickoRay]

Awesome shell and build so far!

Gotta love the GB2 packs. Currently inquiring with Vincenzo about one! I don't know if it's iust me, but I feel like there's not much love for GB2 packs as everyone makes GB1 packs. Black crank knob, "fruit loop" colored ribbon cable (not to mention just very casually tied), and black ion cap ftw!

Another cool build subbed.

[CPU64]

Try to get those wires soldered to the switch.

[Grimmy GB]

NickoRay...I'd say there are just as many GB2 packs; as they are easier and cheaper to build.

[csullivan1980]

NickoRay...I'd say there are just as many GB2 packs; as they are easier and cheaper to build.

Yup, when I started this build I thought it would be a mix of the best of both gb1 and gb2. But as more parts come it definitely is more gb 2 which I'm cool with. I always preferred the gb2 ribbon cable to the gb1 for example.

[NickoRay]

NickoRay...I'd say there are just as many GB2 packs; as they are easier and cheaper to build.

Yup, when I started this build I thought it would be a mix of the best of both gb1 and gb2. But as more parts come it definitely is more gb 2 which I'm cool with. I always preferred the gb2 ribbon cable to the gb1 for example.

Hm I see. I am new to these forums haha. It's just when I search for hero packs or builds on this forum, I mostly see GB1 packs. But I'll take your word.

I don't know what it is about the GB2 I like. Like you, it's maybe the ribbon cable. Overall I think the vibrancy of the pack in GB2 is toned down which I enjoy.

[JaysOccult]

Same here... But in reverse. I started out thinking I would do a semi hero lobby pack, but the more parts I collected, I've been leaning towards a GB1. May have to compromise and do one of each

[Grimmy GB]

Same here... But in reverse. I started out thinking I would do a semi hero lobby pack, but the more parts I collected, I've been leaning towards a GB1. May have to compromise and do one of each

That's also been my plan The one I'm working on right now is a GB Hero. I almost have everything for a SemiHero also. That will be my GB2 pack.

[csullivan1980]

One of the things I like about this project is know I'm not alone. It's awesome sharing my experience with you guys and getting great constructive criticism and feedback.

Also knowing I'm the only one is my friend who'll be able to say I have a proton pack whether it's gb1, gb2 or a hybrids.

[csullivan1980]

Mounted the pchrisbosh1 mobo to the Rothco alice frame today. Got some great telescopic spacers from Demon and they are PERFECT!!! I had to enlarge the pre-drilled holes a small bit, change a few small washers but the final product speaks for itself.

The top bolt will have to be cut down because I notice when I lean over it digs into my back.

[csullivan1980]

Another view with the shell resting on top of the frame.

[NickoRay]

Lookin' great! Also, I had that same Ikea rug at one point :]

[bishopdonmiguel]

The top bolt will have to be cut down because I notice when I lean over it digs into my back.

I think you mounted those backwards. The nut should be on the inside of the shell.

Also, take this opportunity to replace the flimsy vertical bar with a more substantial support. Odds are good that stress point will flex and become weak.

[csullivan1980]

The top bolt will have to be cut down because I notice when I lean over it digs into my back.

I think you mounted those backwards. The nut should be on the inside of the shell.

Also, take this opportunity to replace the flimsy vertical bar with a more substantial support. Odds are good that stress point will flex and become weak.

I did flip the bolts but they are too long for the lower part of the frame. I'd either have to hack them shorter or find shorter bolts.

Yes, I was talking to a guy who had his frame break in the vertical bar due to stress over time. I'm seeing if I can find a way to reinforce it before I run into that problem myself. He too mention that it broke because he picked up the pack by the frame.

[bishopdonmiguel]

You could try sandwiching the strut between additional supports and riveting. But honestly, the effort to replace isn't that much. Check out Mat's build.

[Riggs45]

My oh my, shes looking sturdy! And may I add beautiful! Clean work Sullivan!

[Venkman's Swagger]

I did flip the bolts but they are too long for the lower part of the frame. I'd either have to hack them shorter or find shorter bolts.

If you flipped the bolts then length shouldn't be an issue. The bottom end of the bolt should be inside the shell so you should have only the bolt head and spacer visible on the outside

[Venkman's Swagger]

I've just threw my temporary spacers on before I have to start work, hopefully it'll highlight what me and Bish are saying. The pics aren't the clearest because I'm in a rush but I hope you find them helpful

Vertical Bar outside of shell



Vertical Bar side view



Bottom of Mobo/ALICE Frame



Outside of Mobo/ALICE Frame




Notice that all bolt heads are on the outside of the shell and all excess bolt length is hidden inside the shell. The bolts I am using are 40mm in length. I hope this helps

[csullivan1980]

Getting the bolt head on the outside of the mobo isn't a problem it's the ones on the lower part of the frame that is. It's going to require me finding bolts that are a bit longer than an inch or hacking them down. But it might not solve that problem because I'm going off of the pre-drilled holes from the pchrisbosh1 mobo.

I hope my new pics help illustrate my problem.

Uh oh:


Uh-oh again:


Top is Cool:

[Grimmy GB]

On the older LC-1 frames (I'm assuming various manufacturers), there are about 1" slide holes on the bottom already. That's why you can't fit the bolts in there like we "think" you can. Look at some reference photos, dude

[bishopdonmiguel]

Open up those lower holes a bit and then insert the bolt at and angle that is parallel with the V strut until it passes through. After that, slide on the spacer then attach the mobo.

[csullivan1980]

Open up those lower holes a bit and then insert the bolt at and angle that is parallel with the V strut until it passes through. After that, slide on the spacer then attach the mobo.

Okay, I'll give that a shot, thanks for the feedback

[Grimmy GB]

This picture references what the pre-drilled holes at the bottom look like. You can see how much sliding (adjustment) we have. Opening your holes up would be more accurate actually ^^

[csullivan1980]

There a good tool to pull that off? I'm working with drill bits mostly

[bishopdonmiguel]

There a good tool to pull that off? I'm working with drill bits mostly

A Dremel might work but unless you are very careful, it will not turn out well. Suggest you start by making them slightly larger and see how that goes before you attempt to create slots. After you widen the hole, angle the bit back-and-forth parallel with the bar and the hole is a bit oval in shape. Careful that you don't bind the bit warp/bend the support.

[Grimmy GB]

Agreed. Bish is a smart man! ^^

[Venkman's Swagger]

Bish has you covered!! Another way would be to drill a hole either side of your centre hole and then file out the metal in between the holes until you have something that resembles the authentic ALICE frames

[csullivan1980]

L brackets arrives today!!!

Looking forward to getting this thing mounted hopefully by next week! But looks like I'll have to move the hose clamp closer up towards the bumper when I position it. You can see where the bracket and clamp overlay.

[bishopdonmiguel]

Recommend you dado the hose clamp to overlap. You'll want the bracket and hose clamp in their proper places (flush and centered within the squares on the Cyclotron). Check out GohstTarp's build.

[csullivan1980]

What's good about a sick day? More time to work on the Proton Pack!!!

Today I lined up the "L" brackets and marked their placement on the mobo numbering them 1-4. Taking bishopdonmiguel's advice looking at GohstTarp's thread about the clamp placement in relation to the #1 "L" bracket, looks good! Thanks!



Also took some screenshots from GB1 for reference on proper placement of the #4 bracket so it doesn't conflict with the v-hook.