#4865626
VS: just as I think epic is on its way out there you go bringing it back. Lol jk, thanks!

Richierich: thanks and know the feeling. I've spent many days on end gawking at builds. Not sad at all.

Galeap: A side goal is to cover as much as I can on my process so others who might be in the same spot can see how someone else tackled it. I'm also highlighting things I had difficulty researching thinking others may be having the same experience. There is pitting from glue and other things the camera isn't picking up, but that will get taken care of and documented too. Thank you and glad you and everyone else is enjoying it! Update to come soon for today's work. :)
Last edited by Batfly on September 16th, 2017, 8:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
#4865634
Batfly wrote:VS: just as I think epic is on its way out there you go bringing it back. Lol jk, thanks!
Hahaha you're welcome dude. What you're doing here really is epic
Batfly liked this
#4865657
Thanks Nick! Bumper isn't even finished yet. I want to lay in some apoxie sculpt to round out the inside side rails.

Here yesterday's progress.

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Started out with drilling holes in the gun track discs. I didn't measure anything for positions. I just eyeballed it from reference shots.

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I took the discs off and scored a center line on the bottom plate.

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I held on the rear cylinder to get the forward/back placement of the track. While putting a drill bit through the hole I slide the track around till the bit caught on the scored center line. I then just gave the bit a couple of twists to mark the spot.

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I drilled and tapped that hole then put the track on with a screw in place but not tightened down. Bit in hole, swung track till bit caught the score line, and twiddled the bit a bit. Removed track and drilled and tapped this send hole.

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I'm really impressed with how well 0.125" styrene threads and holds screws securely.

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While I had these in my hands I marked where the bottom plate alignment guides line up in relation to the plate screw holes I've yet to drill. I'm going to make posts with jb weld to drill and tap for the plate screws. These markings will help me keep the areas clear for the alignment guides.

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I used some brain muscles and figured my idea to run the switch ear wires internally just wasn't feasible. The switch is too big vertically, and getting the light and wires in at the same time and space is nearly impossible. Then to have to do this after it's glued onto the front handle pipe, no go. So I drilled out the hole for the switch and flipped it over.

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I drilled out a slightly larger hole in the bottom to insert the switch. Next to it I drilled out a hole just big enough to fit the hat light LED.

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Of course I had to wire it up...

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...and test it out. For science, of course! This shot with the light on looks cool, but looks even better in person as it's a nice even and somewhat bright glow. These gbfans hat lights are so cool.

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Glued the switch ear in place.

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Next I glued on the banjo ear. Then I noticed something...

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You see that scored ring by my thumb? That is to simulate the split between the handle nub and the handle pipe where the barrel lock goes (not doing a rotating handle). Yep! I glued the friggin ears on the wrong end! Had to rip them off, rub down the area, and glue them on the other end. In my angered ragey haste, I proceeded to attach them on the right end, but accidentally reversed the left/right positioning. Oh man I couldn't believe it! So, again, I ripped them off, cleaned the area, and glued them on a third bleeping time. Sheesh. Many deep breaths were utilized.

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I drilled out the grip screw hole in the barrel lock. Then I lined up the grip to the switch ear being real particular, and then lined up the barrel lock. I marked on both where they line up to the center pipe line for later ease. Then I did the drill bit marking technique and drilled the pilot hole into the grip.

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I then tapped the grip hole with the screw that'll be used. What a horrible sound this makes! Like a harpie guinea pig from hell (aka Hillary Clinton)!

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While the grip was held on I marked where the wire trough should be and connected a line between them. I used my metal file and started the 50 minute process of destroying my elbow. I also used a much smaller square file but didn't get shots.

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Came outt really nice. Lined it up again and put on the barrel lock to check clearance and realized the barrel lock covers the rear exit.

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So I looked at reference photos to see where exactly the wires exit. Using my drill press I milled out a side channel for the wires to follow.

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Works a charm!

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Mocked everything up and am super pleased with the results! I didn't glue down the barrel lock yet. I want to fill the area between the switch and the hat light in the ear with jb weld so I can run the grip screw through it and have it recessed.

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It looks so strange white, lol. Now I need to source some heat shrink tubing large enough to fit over the ear.

Tis all for now. Can't believe this was 7 hours of work. Today might be a break as the girlfriend and I have off together and it's memorial day. We shall see if anything gets tinkered with.
GohstTarp liked this
#4865829
Thanks Jay! I can't wait either!

So I did manage to get some work done yesterday. But first look what came in the mail today!

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Ooooooh yeeeaaaah. You like that, don't you? Super rare milky white hat light. I'm so honored, happy, appreciative, and geeked out by this awesome gift of karmic gesture. I did someone a free favor who reached out to me. Later I reached out to who I thought was a stranger, cause I'm horrible with names, and it turned out to be the same person who originally reached out to me. You know who you are, and I'm super grateful! Thank you!

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One more with no flash.


Ok, back to yesterday.

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Went to home depot with the girlfriend for some screws which I had got the wrong lengths for previously, some brass washers, an s hook I'm going to try bending slowly, and some heat shrink tubing for the switch ear. Also got some 2x4s to put legs on gf's green screen for season 2 of her YouTube channel.

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While poking around I picked a 1" PVC female/female coupler. I figured I could use it to aid in gluing in the front handle and keep it straight easier.

I got back home and placed the coupler inside the thrower. It just needed one side shaved down. This took 1 hour and 40 minutes! Sheesh PVC!

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Cut the excess side off the coupler.

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Then I made an entrance for wires. I wanted it to be serviceable but didn't want the hole as big as was needed for the connector. So I came up with a narrow slot. Just drilled a small hole and cut the sides to the edge with a hobby blade.

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The bottom plate closes the slot. I'll be using heat shrink tubing on the exposed wire section.

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Lastly, I glued in the the coupler.

I'm debating wether to make the front handle removable or not. If I make it removable, either the handle or the body will need to separate from the fake weld. It will also be ultimately held on with a screw through the coupler and handle tube. If I make it permanent, it'll be stronger and the final angle will be locked in by PVC glue, no possible shifting. I won't have to worry about separating welds. I just have to get it right quickly and in one try. Opinions?

That's it for yesterday. I'll be working till 11pm the next three days. I don't expect much will get done if at all the rest of the week. [emoji14]
#4865888
Very nice! That's the kind I have with the brass insert, I'm torn between that and the more accurate nickel insert (which I don't have), but the brass ones give off a nice reflective glow...
Batfly liked this
#4865904
Alan, yeah, I was thinking of even adding some jb weld around the coupler. Alright, so I'll perma-glue the sucker in.
#4865905
Pyhasanon, I'm nut sure it's brass. My camera made the base look much more yellow than it is. It really looks like a very dull copper in real life. The first picture up there is the closest but still not perfectly representative. Whether that is nickel or not, I don't know, but it's not brass.
#4865917
Good point, I'm personally not sure as well, but it is definitely not a "silvery" color as the screen used ones, but still looks great... I personally like them better, adds a uniqueness to them, especially since you can see it through the milky white...
Batfly liked this
#4867468
Haven't gotten any work done progress wise on the pack. I did finish the suit though, minus boots. You can check that out in my suit upgrade thread, link in signature.

I did, however, get in the mail my GBFans labels.

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My expensive GBFans labels. I got both the vinyl and metallic labels. I went back and forth weather I wanted to spend so much on these. I'm glad I did! The metal ones look like real BRUSHED aluminum. They are staggeringly good looking! The vinyl labels look amazing as well. I didn't think they'd be glossy. Super high print resolutions and pre cut! These are worth the price, I hate to say. Lol.

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As I showed in my uniform thread, we also got in shirts we ordered. We plan on matching with the Windy City Ghostbusters in the pride parade on the 26th if our work schedules permit. I'm really motivated for this as the Orlando Pulse shooting happened. I grew up in Orlando and moved out at age 30. I've been to Pulse multiple times. It's a wonderful place with amazing people and this news has hit me hard the last couple days! #OrlandoStrong I'll end with that. :*(
#4867606
I was out of work early yesterday and the girlfriend was still at work, so I tinkered a bit.

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I took one of these s hooks...

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...and put it into a vice.

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I took pliers and SLOWLY bent the top hook 90°. If you decide to go this route, bend slowly and make sure to use stainless steel s hooks, you shouldn't have any issues with shearing. I used no heat.

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I took it out of the vice and put the nut I'm using as a spacer in the bottom hook. Then I bent it around the nut with the pliers.

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Not exactly the same as screen used, but it looks good, is secure, and will function as a hanging hook. I'm pleased :)

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I reinforced the front handle coupler heeding Alan's wise words (don't let it go to your head [emoji14] ). Used jb weld (every time I say jb weld I'm really using a generic product called quick plastic. I just grew up with the term jb weld.) Kept a channel clear for wire access. Also had to watch out for where the bottom plate alignment tabs I made go.

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Lastly, I made jb weld posts that I'll drill and tap for the bottom plate screws to secure to. Same thing making sure alignment tabs on the bottom plate have clearance. I roughed up and wiped all surfaces prior to application of any epoxie.

That's was all for yesterday.
#4867981
Got a little bit done yesterday.

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I drilled out holes into the epoxie blocks to be threaded. I did this with the bottom plate on so it all lines up.

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Tapped it with a 6-32 tap bit.

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Drilled out the bottom plate screw holes using a bit 2 sizes up (my bits increase by 64ths of an inch). Then I replaced the bottom plate and screwed in the screws.

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I love it when a plan comes together! Oops, wrong fandom. [emoji14]

That's it. The rest of the time I used removing black paint from boot zippers. You can catch that in my flight suit upgrade thread in my signature. But here's a quick before and after for gits and shiggles.

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#4868347
Got some work done Sunday, haven't had time till now to post about it.

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I put the uncut hat light in the ear to make a barrier and shoved some epoxie in between the light and switch. This is to be able to have material to hold and counter sink the cap head screw that holds the front of the grip in place. I used a small flat head screwdriver to push the epoxie around into corners and make clearance for the switch. Took out the hat light and set aside.

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I threaded the hole between the side discs and put in the screw to test fit.

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I replaced the front track disc screw with a shorter one. The old one couldn't be screwed in all the way before hitting the front handle coupler.

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Drilled and tapped the hole for the barrel lock set screw. This screw is purely cosmetic as I'm not making a rotating barrel.

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The tapping separated a spot that I missed with glue somehow. So added some glue, clamped, and put the set screw back in. Then I cleaned up the glue on the bottom some hours later.

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I went around our place looking for two perfectly perpendicular surfaces to use as guides for keeping the rear handle level while epoxie'ing it.

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I used these two pieces as spacers, one is a section of 1" pvc pipe, the other is some 0.125" styrene.

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I checked fit one last time before kneading up some epoxie.

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These holes are so I can push epoxie through them from the back, and then place some on top to make epoxie rivets of sorts.

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I applied the epoxie to the back and pushed it into the holes. Then also liberally put glue where ever there wasn't epoxie for added strength.

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Inserted the handle and pressed into place to set the epoxie.

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I placed my spacers and put the body and handle up again the wall and countertop. Then I realized the flaw in my plan. I would have to stand there for hours till the glue and epoxie set. That wasn't going to fly.

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So I quickly grabbed a spare wooden board and checked for level ness. Then I lined things up and clamped it all down.

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I put the top layer of epoxie on the "rivet" posts.

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I slathered glue on all the spots where the pipe met the plastic walls and set it aside to cure.

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About two weeks ago I cut out 0.06" and 0.04" (going to be doubled up for 0.08") thick discs with some hole saws. Didn't get around to putting them to use till Sunday.

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I put some glue on, spread it around with a screw driver, then placed it on the previous disc. Two large, one smaller, lather rinse and repeat till...

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...you have a bellows/ion knob/shock mount. I'll fill in the small gaps in the sides and rub down clean later.

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Looks the part!

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Then I took the thrower out of the clamps.

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Yes! Came out perfect! I threw on the front handle and held on the grips for some pics. Things are getting exciting!

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That's all for now.
#4869932
Happy 4th of July if you celebrate it! I got some work done Saturday and Sunday. Friday I had off with the lady, same as today, so those were break days. I'll do a separate post for each day.

Saturday I decided to affix the grips.

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I started with the front grips first. I lined them up to a mark I made previously and tapped thern in place.

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I made sure to leave a gap for the heat shrink tubing.

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For such an odd angle I used a power hand drill. I drilled through into the grip. I used a bit about 2 sizes down from the screw size. In the ear only, I used a size bigger bit to widen out the hole as the screw doesn't need to thread into it.

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From the bottom side, you can see I accidentally strayed from planned trajectory. It shouldn't be a problem. I can always put this screw in after the switch goes in if need be.

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And from the top, looks to be ok.

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I threaded the grip screw hole with the screw itself. Chirp chirp goes the resin.

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Next I made a counter sunk hole with a larger bit to recess the socket cap head of the screw.

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I lined up the grip and screwed in the screw. Looks good! I'm pleased.

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I rotated the barrel lock while it was screwed on and applied glue. Then I rotated it back and clamped in onto the barrel. Again, not making a rotating barrel.

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I drilled and tapped two set screws into the front barrel/handle coupler and pipe.

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No protrusion inside the pipe.

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I moved onto drilling two holes in the rear grip.

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I lined them up to a previously marked spot and taped them down onto the rear handle.

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I drilled both holes into the handle pipe.

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I counter sunk holes into the rear grip. I tapped and screwed the screws in all at once. They aren't exactly in center line with each other, but they give it some character and look good.

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The rear screw is extra long to hold in the ribbed tubing.

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Here's the thrower as of Saturday.

I didn't want to stop there so I decided to grab the plasma tube and tore it's housing apart with pliers.

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I also might have trimmed the white shrink tubing on the tip. I may have also installed it into the acrylic wand barrel tip.

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Continuing in this direction I put a drum sander bit in the hand drill. I grabbed the aluminum trigger tip and ground down the inside of the ring. Fit trigger tip to barrel tip, grind, repeat. Did this for nearly an hour until...

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...the trigger begrudgingly scoots onto the barrel tip and is snug enough to not move easily. I was afraid the tube would scratch, but I can't see anything of the sort. I like how busy it looks. It has a nice weight and feel to it that can't be explained in pictures. It feels expensive and technical lol. I can't wait to test out the plasma tube once done!

That was it for Saturday's progress. Stay tuned for Sunday's. Don't blow off your hand with fireworks!
#4870115
Here's Sundays progress.

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I started with smushing jb weld (actual brand this time) into the ends of the front and rear cylinders of the thrower. I also threw some into the ppd angled top. I didn't do the bottom yet. These will get cleaned up and then drilled and tapped.

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I made some jb weld nubs for attachment points on the hga. Set this aside to cure.

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I drilled out the hole for the milky white hat light.

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Had to test the fit, for science I assure you. The milky white science!

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Then I went on to correct something that is in Stephan's plans. He has both the filler and beam line tubes rising to the same heights. On the actual packs the tubes themselves are the same size and are offset by the step in the classic plating.

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So I scored a line an inch in from the bottom as a guide. Then I cut the end off.

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Scored and snapped out a new base square. Glued that on.

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Ah much better.

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I grabbed the hga and drilled out the top and side holes.

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Tapped and screwed in the lid screws. I still need to make the fake welds, on everything.

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Tapped the side npt threaded holes. Made sure to only tap up to half the bit as npt threading is tapered. Screwed in the fittings and they are nice and snug!

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Here's an inside shot and also shows I cleaned up the flat surface of the attachment nubs.

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I drilled, tapped, and screwed in the fitting on the beam line tube.

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I started with Stephan's plans placement for the hga. I raised it by only about a eighth inch to bring it closer to the top of the crank generator. I drew a circle with a compass the diameter of the hga. I marked the center points of the nubs and placed the hga on the circle. I continued the marks onto the circle.

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I marked a quarter inch in from the circumference at each marked point. I drilled a hole at each new mark.

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I lined up the hga back onto its circle and held it in place while I twirled a bit through the holes from the inside onto the nubs. This made a lined up pilot divot for each nub.

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I drilled out the nubs and tapped them with a screw.

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Lined up hga and screwed it on. Super secure! Very pleased.

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Getting parts attached both motivates and overwhelms me. Looks so good yet there so much more to do! It's all in the journey!

It's been awhile. I know you want them. Get ready for...

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...MONEY SHOTS! Yeah baby. Got a little thrower action in there too.
#4870177
Thank guys! Unzbert: she knew you were a ghosthead before she said yes, correct? Lol
Unzbert liked this
#4875151
Been working crazy hours (12 hour days) and have a cold, so forgive me for not posting progress from last Thursday, July 28th until now. Finally have down time to post.

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First off, got these parts in from Freeky Geeky on July 11th, didn't want to make a post for just these arriving. He is awesome and you can shoot him an email for out of stock stuff and even custom machined parts. Super easy guy to work with!

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Got a metal female vhook. Going to make the male part out of styrene. Was going to make it all out of styrene, but wasn't sure it'd be strong enough over time. This is cheap peace of mind right here!

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Decided on getting a metal reducer collar as I searched multiple hardware stores in all departments for something suitable. Came across nothing. I have o-rings I'll put in the grooves to make it nice and snug.

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Pretty self explanatory. The tip lever and retention disc and small knob. Tiny alan set screws for the win.

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I'm really happy about this piece as it's not on his website. Glad I asked! Custom knurled, beveled, and threaded ion arm rod. I wanted just the rod as I'm making the block out of styrene. This will look so good painted and weathered!

Ok, onto Thursday's progress!

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I cleaned up these guys from when I filled them with jb weld for mounting material and set them aside for later.

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I measured the gun track section width the vhook attaches to and scored a halfway mark. I went over this with pencil.

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Lined up the vhook, held it in place, and marked the center of the holes for drilling. Set it aside for later.

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I gazed at reference photos for a good 15 minutes before placing and tracing the front and rear cylinders.

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With my guides traced out, I started on material removal. I made two holes for the front cylinder attachment screws.

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I lined up and clamped on the front cylinder. I took the bit I made the holes with and twirled it to make a pilot mark.

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I drill out and tapped the hole for 6-32 threading. I'm happy to be using all extra screws for attaching these parts.

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I widened the body hole and screwed on the front cylinder with only one screw so I could securely mark the pilot for the next hole with the same twirly bit method. I want these to sit and line up exactly where I want them. I'm taking the extra effort to not slip and possibly botch alignment.

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Drilled and tapped the second front cylinder hole.

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Widened second body hole and screwed on funny cylinder. It came out grrrrrrreat!

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Did the same for the rear cylinder, except I am only using one hole and screw. The instrument bar will keep it from rotating.

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Drilled, tapped with the actual screw since I don't have an 8-32 tap bit in my kit, and attached the rear cylinder.

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With the base plate and gun track on. Loving it!

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I drilled out the holes for the vhook.

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I used the screws to tap the vhook holes for maximum bitey tightness. This was a very chirpy/screechy process. Trick is go sloooow. The screws got mega hot from friction.

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Made counter sunk divots for the back of the vhook. This is simply done with a larger bit. Just have to be careful to not go too deep.

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Vhook attached! Looking good!

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I guesstimated on the placement for the tip extension lever. I started on the small disc side. Shouldn't have guessed! From the outside it'd work, but there is not enough clearance inside for the inner retention disc, let alone any kind of mechanism attachment. Glad I checked placement before making a second hole on the trigger bar side.

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So I filled in the hole with jb weld and spread the excess onto gaps, pits, scratches and such. This will need to be cleaned up later and the holes for the tip extension lever redone.

That's were I'm at with it. I have two days off starting today, but it's our 3 year relationship anniversary and we gotta celebrate! <3 :) Stay tuned!
#4875396
Thanks VS and 001! Took her to Blue Man Group and low and behold, they pick her to do a bit on stage with them! Couldn't have planned it better myself! We went to Le Creperie before that. Ever heard of a curry crepe? Me neither, but it was delicious!

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#4878253
Unzbert wrote:Quick question, apologies if you have answered this earlier on, but what are you planning to use for a motherboard? Are you gong to use aluminium or styrene?
That's a very good question that I still ask myself. I think it's going to depend upon availability. I want aluminum, but I have to source a sheet of it. I read someone used plexiglass. If I used styrene I'd put supports on it like i-beams. So yeah, still undecided.
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