- November 22nd, 2017, 9:59 am#4901204
Sunday, November 19th: Got Hosed
I had the day off so after a dog walk and breakfast, I got right to it.
Decided to start with getting the thinner hoses to stay in their fittings. I was originally going to use electrical tape to make the hose ends girthier but I lost my e-tape. I'm glad I had, because I came up with the idea of using heat shrink tubing. The legris elbows only needed one layer while the clippard straits needed two. Did the thin red tubing first, then the yellow guy on the ion arm. They are nice and snug now, but not too much so that they can't be removed with sufficient force.
Moved on to wrestle the gb1 ribbon cable. I traced the curve of a cable clamp plate onto the nicest end of the cable using a fine tip exploding sharpie. I used the bottom plate just in case I got any marks on it not knowing the pen was going to leak. Glad I did.
Used a pair of flush snips to cut the cable asking the mark wire by wire. This made quick work of it.
Traced out the clamp screw holes onto the cable and poked them through with a small screwdriver. Fed screws through the top clamp plate, then the cable, and lastly through the bottom plate.
Screwed clamp and cable onto the synchronous generator.
Let the wrestling begin! Using the Venkman/Murray pack as reference and the heat gun as my muscle, I coaxed the cable to wrap little by little with zip ties being applied as I went. The wrapping was easy. It was getting it to bend to go through the p-clamp while maintaing the twist that was a pain. I managed it though thanks to the ties.
Those zip ties are great cable wrestling fighters! Tie fighters zipping around. Lol, I had to!
Crap, I realized I neglected to cut all the way through the cosmetic plating layers. I only did the top layer previously. So I made a pilot hole from the front and cut it out with a hole saw from the back.
I tried feeding the cable in through the front but it just wasn't having any of it. So I put a pair of needle nose pliers up through the bottom. Daddy bird fed baby bird its worms. I used my right hand to grip and pull down on the cable. My left hand wrangled stray wire ends into the hole. Put on a third zip tie to keep it all together a little in front of the hole.
Flattened out and cut off the excess cable with the flush snips. Then drilled right through both the cable and bottom layer of the cosmetic spacer. Lifted the cable to tap the hole. Put a washer on the screw and passed the screw through the cable. Screwed it all to the styrene.
Cut the tie tails off and took a step back to witness the glory of a zip tied gb1 cable twisted arch.
Made sure the crank gen loom was pushed in all the way and drilled through the back of the crank gen pvc and into the loom and vinyl hose. Threaded the hole with a screw and tightened it in place. Now I can use the crank gen loom as a handle to lift the pack, but I won't.
The next task had ben looming over me for a while, but now was the time. I first ran some thick speaker wire through the vinyl hose and loom. This way I can attach the cables to it and pull it through.
Then I went to remove a connector off one end of the wand lights' ribbon cable so it'd fit in the vinyl hose. Marked where the red key wire was on both sides and which side the cut end goes on. I first attempted to release the connector by pushing down the push down tab thingies to no avail. So I just broke off the plastic in front that was keeping them on. This was only the strain relief piece so nothing absolutely critical.
Lastly for the cable prep, I wrapped the ribbon cable around the loose wires and their connectors like an electrical taco. Wrapped some masking tape around it all at each connector site. Finally, I taped the cable to the speaker wire that was coming out the thrower-handle-end of the loom.
Sitting with the loom in a big bend I had both ends facing me. Pulled on the pack-end of the speaker wire until the thrower wire assembly was entering the loom. Then I'd grab the ribbon cable around the loose wires like a tiny long taco and push an inch or so into the loom till it would bind up. Next, I'd pull an inch or so of speaker wire out the other loom end. Repeat ad nauseam. After 10 minutes of this horendous tedium I thought to straighten the loom and yank on the speaker wire.
So I put the thrower at the far side of the couch and held its loom end in between my feet. Then I held the pack end near my chin with one hand and pulled the speaker wire and cable assembly through in just a few big tugs with the other hand. This worked much faster! But I wasnt able to make sure the loose wires remained on one side/inside the taco as planned. Oh well.
Pushed the loom into the thrower handle while pulling on the speaker wire to take up slack inside the handle. Once I was sure it was past the rear screw of the handle, I tightened it down the screw. Held the thrower nervously in the air by the loom and shook it to test its retention. We're golden!
Now I could put the cable connector back on. I made sure the red wire and cut end were on the correct sides. Then aligned the connector prongs to thier original puncture marks on the cable. Put the connector and cable in a vice and cranked it down. Wanting to incorporate the strain relief, cause it is a good idea, I put a small dab of gorilla gel glue on both sides. Then I bent the cable over and put the strain reliever on and held for thirty seconds. After a few minutes I gave it a good pull and it held firm. Sweet!
I inserted the loose wire ends into the pack loom entry hole followed by the ribbon cable connector. Push them through all the way and inserted the loom and hose. Flipped the pack around to fold the sides of the loom and hose over the pvc loom coupler and screwed them to it one side at a time.
There was a lot of extra ribbon cable so I ran it under both board shelves, made a wide bend back to the sound board, and plugged it in.
I cut a scrap piece of styrene (hey, I haven't said that in a while, lol) for a relay retainer like the battery has. I drilled a hole in one end. Then drilled and tapped a hole in the upper center of the top shelf. Widened the retainer hole with a bigger bit and screwed it to the shelf. Switched back to the smaller bit and drilled through the retainer and shelf while holding it in place (one hand only in pic as I paused to take the shot, I'm sure that's obvious). Then removed the screw and widened the second retainer hole. Put both screws in the retainer and screwed it over the relay onto the shelf. Now it's a relay shelf! Yay for recycling failed ideas!
Threw two metallic stickers onto the thrower I had forgoten the other day. Then hung the thrower on the v-hook. Sometimes it's good to be hosed!
Figured next I'd install the reordered-and-actually-in-the-untempered-packaging-this-time 1/8" mini jack onto the motherboard. Drilled a 1/2" hole on the opposite side from the volume knob. Started with the bit in reverse to not mar the paint or surface. Then drilled forward all the way through. Inserted the jack and nutted it down. This is a TRRS, (tip ring ring sleeve) jack.
It refers to the sections separated by the black insulating layers on 1/16", 1/8", and 1/4" jacks and connectors.
I only needed to use the top three for a standard TRS 1/8" cable that'll plug into the headphone jack of my phone.
I cut off an end of a stereo 1/8" male to male mini cable I had and stripped its wiring. The copper shielding around the red and white wires are both grounds connected to the sleeve on the male jack. Since I have a TRRS female jack and two grounds on my TRS male jack, I'll use both grounds. One in the second ring terminal, the other in the sleeve terminal. That'll turn the female jack into TRS only.
I spent a few minutes researching which wire was the tip and which was the first ring just to find out it's different from manufacturer to manufacturer. I was about to get frustrated when it dawned on me that it gets turned from stereo into mono at the board. So it didn't matter what was tip or first ring/left or right. So I just screwed into the terminals red for tip/left, white for first ring/right, and both coppers for second ring and sleeve/ground and mic, turning them both into the same sleeve/ground effectively.
I wanted to test the motherboard fit. This time I hosed myself! The newly installed jack runs right into the loom coupler leaving a 1/2" gap. Doh! This seriously bummed me out. Sometimes it's bad to be hosed!
Kept my cool after a few expletives and feeling really dumb. I removed the jack and mixed up some apoxie sculpt real quick and filled the hole in the motherboard. The jack will have to get relocated. Good thing it happened when it did! I scheduled the next day for the n-filter respray, the last day of warmer weather for the foreseeable forecast. The motherboard be the n-filter's respray buddy.
Again, went to test fit the motherboard to the pack, and was getting caught up by about a 1/4" towards the center. I rocked the motherboard on what was hanging it up until I found the rocking fulcrum position. Put my finger at that spot and removed the motherboard. Wouldn't you know it, it was the bolt and nut for the half moon spacer to Alice frame. I then had a wave of dread hit me thinking it was hitting the gb1 cable excess or screw/washer.
So I put some masking tape on the end of the bolt, sticky side out. It stayed on long enough to put the motherboard back on the pack. Then I removed it and saw the tape worked to mark where the bolt was hitting. It was indeed clear of the cable and screw/washer. Whew, relief!
I trimmed a litte more off the corner of the cable near thr impact mark. Drilled out that area and now the motherboard fits perfectly!
Called it a day and hung out with the lady for the remainder of the night.
I had the day off so after a dog walk and breakfast, I got right to it.
Decided to start with getting the thinner hoses to stay in their fittings. I was originally going to use electrical tape to make the hose ends girthier but I lost my e-tape. I'm glad I had, because I came up with the idea of using heat shrink tubing. The legris elbows only needed one layer while the clippard straits needed two. Did the thin red tubing first, then the yellow guy on the ion arm. They are nice and snug now, but not too much so that they can't be removed with sufficient force.
Moved on to wrestle the gb1 ribbon cable. I traced the curve of a cable clamp plate onto the nicest end of the cable using a fine tip exploding sharpie. I used the bottom plate just in case I got any marks on it not knowing the pen was going to leak. Glad I did.
Used a pair of flush snips to cut the cable asking the mark wire by wire. This made quick work of it.
Traced out the clamp screw holes onto the cable and poked them through with a small screwdriver. Fed screws through the top clamp plate, then the cable, and lastly through the bottom plate.
Screwed clamp and cable onto the synchronous generator.
Let the wrestling begin! Using the Venkman/Murray pack as reference and the heat gun as my muscle, I coaxed the cable to wrap little by little with zip ties being applied as I went. The wrapping was easy. It was getting it to bend to go through the p-clamp while maintaing the twist that was a pain. I managed it though thanks to the ties.
Those zip ties are great cable wrestling fighters! Tie fighters zipping around. Lol, I had to!
Crap, I realized I neglected to cut all the way through the cosmetic plating layers. I only did the top layer previously. So I made a pilot hole from the front and cut it out with a hole saw from the back.
I tried feeding the cable in through the front but it just wasn't having any of it. So I put a pair of needle nose pliers up through the bottom. Daddy bird fed baby bird its worms. I used my right hand to grip and pull down on the cable. My left hand wrangled stray wire ends into the hole. Put on a third zip tie to keep it all together a little in front of the hole.
Flattened out and cut off the excess cable with the flush snips. Then drilled right through both the cable and bottom layer of the cosmetic spacer. Lifted the cable to tap the hole. Put a washer on the screw and passed the screw through the cable. Screwed it all to the styrene.
Cut the tie tails off and took a step back to witness the glory of a zip tied gb1 cable twisted arch.
Made sure the crank gen loom was pushed in all the way and drilled through the back of the crank gen pvc and into the loom and vinyl hose. Threaded the hole with a screw and tightened it in place. Now I can use the crank gen loom as a handle to lift the pack, but I won't.
The next task had ben looming over me for a while, but now was the time. I first ran some thick speaker wire through the vinyl hose and loom. This way I can attach the cables to it and pull it through.
Then I went to remove a connector off one end of the wand lights' ribbon cable so it'd fit in the vinyl hose. Marked where the red key wire was on both sides and which side the cut end goes on. I first attempted to release the connector by pushing down the push down tab thingies to no avail. So I just broke off the plastic in front that was keeping them on. This was only the strain relief piece so nothing absolutely critical.
Lastly for the cable prep, I wrapped the ribbon cable around the loose wires and their connectors like an electrical taco. Wrapped some masking tape around it all at each connector site. Finally, I taped the cable to the speaker wire that was coming out the thrower-handle-end of the loom.
Sitting with the loom in a big bend I had both ends facing me. Pulled on the pack-end of the speaker wire until the thrower wire assembly was entering the loom. Then I'd grab the ribbon cable around the loose wires like a tiny long taco and push an inch or so into the loom till it would bind up. Next, I'd pull an inch or so of speaker wire out the other loom end. Repeat ad nauseam. After 10 minutes of this horendous tedium I thought to straighten the loom and yank on the speaker wire.
So I put the thrower at the far side of the couch and held its loom end in between my feet. Then I held the pack end near my chin with one hand and pulled the speaker wire and cable assembly through in just a few big tugs with the other hand. This worked much faster! But I wasnt able to make sure the loose wires remained on one side/inside the taco as planned. Oh well.
Pushed the loom into the thrower handle while pulling on the speaker wire to take up slack inside the handle. Once I was sure it was past the rear screw of the handle, I tightened it down the screw. Held the thrower nervously in the air by the loom and shook it to test its retention. We're golden!
Now I could put the cable connector back on. I made sure the red wire and cut end were on the correct sides. Then aligned the connector prongs to thier original puncture marks on the cable. Put the connector and cable in a vice and cranked it down. Wanting to incorporate the strain relief, cause it is a good idea, I put a small dab of gorilla gel glue on both sides. Then I bent the cable over and put the strain reliever on and held for thirty seconds. After a few minutes I gave it a good pull and it held firm. Sweet!
I inserted the loose wire ends into the pack loom entry hole followed by the ribbon cable connector. Push them through all the way and inserted the loom and hose. Flipped the pack around to fold the sides of the loom and hose over the pvc loom coupler and screwed them to it one side at a time.
There was a lot of extra ribbon cable so I ran it under both board shelves, made a wide bend back to the sound board, and plugged it in.
I cut a scrap piece of styrene (hey, I haven't said that in a while, lol) for a relay retainer like the battery has. I drilled a hole in one end. Then drilled and tapped a hole in the upper center of the top shelf. Widened the retainer hole with a bigger bit and screwed it to the shelf. Switched back to the smaller bit and drilled through the retainer and shelf while holding it in place (one hand only in pic as I paused to take the shot, I'm sure that's obvious). Then removed the screw and widened the second retainer hole. Put both screws in the retainer and screwed it over the relay onto the shelf. Now it's a relay shelf! Yay for recycling failed ideas!
Threw two metallic stickers onto the thrower I had forgoten the other day. Then hung the thrower on the v-hook. Sometimes it's good to be hosed!
Figured next I'd install the reordered-and-actually-in-the-untempered-packaging-this-time 1/8" mini jack onto the motherboard. Drilled a 1/2" hole on the opposite side from the volume knob. Started with the bit in reverse to not mar the paint or surface. Then drilled forward all the way through. Inserted the jack and nutted it down. This is a TRRS, (tip ring ring sleeve) jack.
It refers to the sections separated by the black insulating layers on 1/16", 1/8", and 1/4" jacks and connectors.
I only needed to use the top three for a standard TRS 1/8" cable that'll plug into the headphone jack of my phone.
I cut off an end of a stereo 1/8" male to male mini cable I had and stripped its wiring. The copper shielding around the red and white wires are both grounds connected to the sleeve on the male jack. Since I have a TRRS female jack and two grounds on my TRS male jack, I'll use both grounds. One in the second ring terminal, the other in the sleeve terminal. That'll turn the female jack into TRS only.
I spent a few minutes researching which wire was the tip and which was the first ring just to find out it's different from manufacturer to manufacturer. I was about to get frustrated when it dawned on me that it gets turned from stereo into mono at the board. So it didn't matter what was tip or first ring/left or right. So I just screwed into the terminals red for tip/left, white for first ring/right, and both coppers for second ring and sleeve/ground and mic, turning them both into the same sleeve/ground effectively.
I wanted to test the motherboard fit. This time I hosed myself! The newly installed jack runs right into the loom coupler leaving a 1/2" gap. Doh! This seriously bummed me out. Sometimes it's bad to be hosed!
Kept my cool after a few expletives and feeling really dumb. I removed the jack and mixed up some apoxie sculpt real quick and filled the hole in the motherboard. The jack will have to get relocated. Good thing it happened when it did! I scheduled the next day for the n-filter respray, the last day of warmer weather for the foreseeable forecast. The motherboard be the n-filter's respray buddy.
Again, went to test fit the motherboard to the pack, and was getting caught up by about a 1/4" towards the center. I rocked the motherboard on what was hanging it up until I found the rocking fulcrum position. Put my finger at that spot and removed the motherboard. Wouldn't you know it, it was the bolt and nut for the half moon spacer to Alice frame. I then had a wave of dread hit me thinking it was hitting the gb1 cable excess or screw/washer.
So I put some masking tape on the end of the bolt, sticky side out. It stayed on long enough to put the motherboard back on the pack. Then I removed it and saw the tape worked to mark where the bolt was hitting. It was indeed clear of the cable and screw/washer. Whew, relief!
I trimmed a litte more off the corner of the cable near thr impact mark. Drilled out that area and now the motherboard fits perfectly!
Called it a day and hung out with the lady for the remainder of the night.
"Don't be a crazy!" - Alan Hawkins
"Let's just not get bogged down in print tolerances, as spending six years cutting a perfect pack is all blown away once the thickness of the PAINT is introduced! hahaha" - johnnyace_pi
0.125" Styrene Proton Pack Scatch Build Thread
Rothco to Nomex Uniform Upgrade Thread
"Let's just not get bogged down in print tolerances, as spending six years cutting a perfect pack is all blown away once the thickness of the PAINT is introduced! hahaha" - johnnyace_pi
0.125" Styrene Proton Pack Scatch Build Thread
Rothco to Nomex Uniform Upgrade Thread