#4857554
Spacer finally has all the plates:
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I had to get some more cutting plates to finish it. Used my hedge scissors to cut it this time. Worked brilliantly Image
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Used epoxy at got them on there
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Used the blueprints to make sure I left out the right plate
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Also wanted to reinforce the sides of the gun mount some more, but the last plate didn't fit right and came right of when I checked it. I'll need to fill it in with a little epoxy putty to make the glueing surfaces more even.
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I washed all the resin parts from Nick-a-tron (I'll post some pictures of the great details later) and shaped the bumper so that it sits snug on the SC Shell.
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It was a little bit to big and I would've had to force it to fit if I didn't shape it a little.

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Standing on the shoulders of giants (or in this case Riggs build) Put the bumper in hot water for about a minute, bent it into the shape I wanted and moved it to cold water to set. Worked like a charm [emoji106]
#4857620
I hope your plates hold better than mine, since we both used that kind of textured cutting board. We sanded them, cleaned them, and the epoxy weld held to the shell beautifully...just not so much the plates. They held better the second application with fresher epoxy, but the ones that ended up getting bolts through them (the bumper arms & mounting brackets) ended up coming off when we started drilling. Thank Gozer the bolts are holding them on tightly. I'm still kinda worried about the ones with nothing on or in them...

The bumper I got was KCGhostbuster's, and combined with the plates, we didn't actually need to bend it in at all. The spacing was really nice. To be honest, the prospect kinda scared me a little, lol. I'm glad yours went smoothly.

Looking great so far! Keep making updates!
#4857703
TENIME_art wrote:I hope your plates hold better than mine, since we both used that kind of textured cutting board. We sanded them, cleaned them, and the epoxy weld held to the shell beautifully...just not so much the plates. They held better the second application with fresher epoxy, but the ones that ended up getting bolts through them (the bumper arms & mounting brackets) ended up coming off when we started drilling. Thank Gozer the bolts are holding them on tightly. I'm still kinda worried about the ones with nothing on or in them...
Out of all the plates just five remains attached :(Image
I'll try to get a hold of some plastic-specific epoxy and try again...
TENIME_art wrote:
Looking great so far! Keep making updates!
Thanks. Right now it looks like a mess on account of the plates falling of, but I'll fix that tomorrow
#4857704
Last night I started on the middle box for the spacer
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Used a matchbox as a template and filled it with woodplates that I glued together
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Then I used gaffer tape to seal and cover it
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Checked that it would have a nice fit..
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...and covered it in epoxy putty
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After all the plates fell of I had to try attaching it to the shell to see if it sticks
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The sides and such will be sanded and covered ones it is dried

The plates falling off ruined my planned painting, but better they fall off now than after paint...
Spent the day sanding the epoxy putty on the shell
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Used sand paper, Dremel, vacuum cleaner and facemask as my main tools. Created a lot of dust!
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More to come. Thanks for checking my build out :)
#4857707
What epoxy did you use for your plates? We have a brand called Araldite over here in the UK that is fantastic. I've used it for numerous things and have never had in issue with it. Might be worth a look to see if its available where you are.
#4857708
Venkman's Swagger wrote:What epoxy did you use for your plates? We have a brand called Araldite over here in the UK that is fantastic. I've used it for numerous things and have never had in issue with it. Might be worth a look to see if its available where you are.
Now I used a locktite one, usually use araldite(!) Just picked up a new tube with the epoxy putty and those were both locktite. Rest of the shell is glued mostly with araldite (maybe some of the plates that stayed on as well) a little unsure as to when I switch between the two. Have done a lot of epoxying...

Will go out and get some araldite asap.
Thanks for the tip :)
#4857709
No problem man. I use rapid which is in a red syringe. It's sets in 20 mins and has a 5 minute work time. Always works well.

Good idea using the matchbox by the way. Clever
#4857710
Since I didn't get to do any painting I fiddled around with the foam on the Alice frame.

First I moved the straps from over the bar, to just under (like on Sony Lobby packs).
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Then I tried with the foam over the top bar
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Added some strips to hold it in place, then electrical tape
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It goes all the way around except where the straps come out. Added a little extra where the strips made a dent in the foam

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It's not quite accurate, but I hope it'll work for a pack made to fit somewhere between GB1 and GB2 :)
#4857713
Venkman's Swagger wrote:No problem man. I use rapid which is in a red syringe. It's sets in 20 mins and has a 5 minute work time. Always works well.
That's the one, so atleast some of my pack won't fall apart, hehe :)
Venkman's Swagger wrote: Good idea using the matchbox by the way. Clever
Thanks :)
#4857730
Obviously, it's too late for those of us who've gone as far as we have, but I wonder if Studio Creations would take (polite) feedback about molding the plates & boxes onto the shell like everyone else does?

The spaces between the plates is more distance than the spacing between some of the upper box ribs (like the bottom of the crank gen), so that shouldn't be an issue.

Not only would it save time, but also aggravation.

I'm already dreading having someone come up to me with a fallen plate, or even worse, getting back to the hotel room and finding some missing. *sigh*
#4857732
TENIME_art wrote:Obviously, it's too late for those of us who've gone as far as we have, but I wonder if Studio Creations would take (polite) feedback about molding the plates & boxes onto the shell like everyone else does?

The spaces between the plates is more distance than the spacing between some of the upper box ribs (like the bottom of the crank gen), so that shouldn't be an issue.

Not only would it save time, but also aggravation.

I'm already dreading having someone come up to me with a fallen plate, or even worse, getting back to the hotel room and finding some missing. *sigh*
I couldn't agree more. That would've saved a lot of time doing a SC build.
Wonder why they haven't added them.
They used to make a mold with the N-filter and they have taken feedback into account before, so I'll send them a little note when I'm done with the pack and ask about the plates being added.

The last plates of mine fell of with the slightest of pulls.. Only two remain (used araldite on those I guess). Now I suddenly have some epoxy residue to remove before I can add the plates again... I'll be getting araldite for that job for sure.

Hope yours stay on!
#4857782
Looking fantastic, man! If you ever get the chance/funds for it, pick up an aluminum HGA and an aluminum ion arm assembly, they're lighter than the resin variety, as they are hollow...
#4857784
Got the right epoxy for the plates and figured why I didn't buy it in the first place. They don't sell the syringe version at the moment, just this:
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A little feed-up with the plates so decided to go ahead with the painting I planned yesterday.

Will be using this to be able to apply weathering later:
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Image The primer is black, a little sceptical to that but I'll se tomorrow how it worked out. The parts must wait 24 hours before the chrome spray can be applied.

The screws and ion arm top got a coat of normal black paint. Those will be dry in a couple of hours.

Added all the different elbows to the pack and parts
Used a 10mm drillbit that made a hole that fit like a glove. Could even screw in the clippard elbows and they sat flush. But I'll probably add some adhesive when assembling it all.

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Got these for our franchise yesterday. Just a small run this time with 10, but if the quality is ok we'll do a larger run and hand them out at cons etc

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Now I must remove some of the ornaments on my Lego calendar because my son wants to play some Lego dimensions Ghostbusters with the new Stay Puft figurine. Couldn't just use the disc, he insisted on having the figurine as well [GHOST]

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May you all have a nice day and remember: Report all ghosts!
rayp_Stantz liked this
#4857788
pyhasanon wrote:Looking fantastic, man! If you ever get the chance/funds for it, pick up an aluminum HGA and an aluminum ion arm assembly, they're lighter than the resin variety, as they are hollow...
Thanks, both for the compliment and the tip about the aluminium. The pack is a little top-heavy right now, but I'm hoping it will be a little better when I get the electronics and battery at the bottom.

The funds I have now will go finish the pack, but the lighter parts is definitivly on my wish list :)
#4857799
Not all aluminum is lighter... I'm putting together a lightweight pack for my wife, and it's definitely a balance between aluminum and resin... Some parts are heavier as aluminum, some are lighter as aluminum...
#4857807
pyhasanon wrote:Not all aluminum is lighter... I'm putting together a lightweight pack for my wife, and it's definitely a balance between aluminum and resin... Some parts are heavier as aluminum, some are lighter as aluminum...
Yeah, was thinking about the HGA and Ion arm.
No build tread for your wife's pack? Would be cool to follow that aswell :)
#4857819
Not yet, haven't had the time... Busy with work, moving and travel... 14+ hour workdays and 2-3 hours of sleep for the past 3 weeks... Good times...
#4857875
TENIME_art wrote:
Morfeusoneiros wrote:Better to build than write about it when time is limited.
This is exactly why my progress pics lessened, lol.
Yeah. Tonight I did a lot more than I got pictures of, but here's what I captured on tape.
The shell and I decided to take some time apart. We had a bit of falling out over falling plates, so today it was wand time

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Lovely details in Nick-a-tron's parts
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I will have to treat that cast gently to do it justice when I turn it into a clippard 701.

Opened up the vents Image

Drilled and tapped for the hose connectors.
4,2 mm drillbit M5 tap tread. Fit ok, but the tension in the hose made them move a little. I'll epoxy them in when the time comes.

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There's more than enough tubing in Nick-a-tron's gun kit

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Did the same for the bottom of the main body and the screws for the lid.
Messed it up at first and had to redo all the holes, but turned out great in the end. The lid I'll do tomorrow.
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My alarm clock rings in about six hours so good night to all :)
#4857938
Looking great so far! Can't wait to see the final result!

Did I start the cutting board technique for the plates? That might make me a little giddy. My biggest contribution to this community would be using cheap dollar store cutting board to make cyclotron plates. That's great.

If you don't like the result for the larger plate at the bottom and the large angled plate where the wires from the injectors attach to, you can allow try my technique of gluing cutting board plates together, then using bondo paste to fill the gaps, and sanding. For the angle, I made each plate just a little bit shorter than the next to create the angle, then filled with bondo paste too.

Good luck!
#4857978
PHRiSCo wrote:Looking great so far! Can't wait to see the final result! Did I start the cutting board technique for the plates? That might make me a little giddy. My biggest contribution to this community would be using cheap dollar store cutting board to make cyclotron plates. That's great.
Thanks, it really is fun to do this build. And yes, I got the idea with the cheap cutting plates from your build, so thank my sir :) I've been using your build as inspiration as well, so happy to give you credit :)
PHRiSCo wrote: If you don't like the result for the larger plate at the bottom and the large angled plate where the wires from the injectors attach to, you can allow try my technique of gluing cutting board plates together, then using bondo paste to fill the gaps, and sanding. For the angle, I made each plate just a little bit shorter than the next to create the angle, then filled with bondo paste too.

Good luck!
I'll see how the epoxy putty looks when sanded down, if it fails I'll give your suggestion a try. Great tip :)
#4857984
Busy day today with a job meeting at City Hall and my mother- and father-in-law dropping by for a visit after dinner, so a little slow building wise. Here's what I got done.

Attached the cover on the instrument bar:
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Opened up the vent lights

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Drilled out all the holes for the lights and switches (and realized that I don't have any covers for the LEDs that isn't under the hatlights)...

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Had to drill it at an angle, so that it doesn't hit the screw from the lid on the instrument bar. (I'll bend it into place when I have the LED Cliplite on there).
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Drilled the hole for the electronics that goes into the wand tip
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First time I held the wand and flicked that switch, oh man, what a rush =D
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Went to check on the parts I've painted.
The black primer looked good on the second group of parts I used them on
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But the parts with the first coating of the crome... Oh the horror! The crome looks like it have reacted with the resin or something because they looked awful
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Only one way to handle this....

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...since it's Paddie's day after all
Happy St. Patrick's day
#4858026
Man that's a crazy paint reaction. Bit of sanding will sort that out so don't get too down about it. Nick's thrower is a beast and you're doing it justice. Keep it up
#4858087
Venkman's Swagger wrote: Man that's a crazy paint reaction. Bit of sanding will sort that out so don't get too down about it.
Yeah, never had that happen with paint before. Unsure if I'll use the same type on the shell. Will do another round with some parts to see if it happens again.
Venkman's Swagger wrote: Nick's thrower is a beast and you're doing it justice. Keep it up
Nick's parts are great and that first time you drill or cut into them is a little bit intimidating. Don't want to mess up a great cast, so thanks for the kind words.
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