#4858088
Today was spent (as VS predicted) sanding and repainting.

First coat after sanding:
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After that had dried I sanded some of the pieces again and gave it all a second coat
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The details on the resistors was a little blurred after painting, so I used a scalpel to cut out the indentations and ribs. That turned out great.

Had to work more, photograph less today. Taking a roadtrip tomorrow to see my hometown football team (or soccer if you're on the other side of the lake) play.

Will be back home and building again Sunday night.

Have a great weekend everyone
#4858281
Got in some work today after I got home. Gave the parts that needed it another coat of paint and tried to get some grooves on the screw heads for my booster frame


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The Norwegian screws have a smooth structure, so I put them in my vice and tightened it

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Did do much good, other than mess up the paint. On the screws for the bumper I'll try something else (not sure what right now though).

Continiued working on my thrower.
Sanded down the piece that goes next to the barrel...
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...and glued it on, using the Sony Lobby pack as referance once again
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I saw that there was a tiny gap in some places (didn't sand good enough in other words) so I used some clear filler to cover them. When painted it won't be noticable
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After priming and painting the rest of the parts for the thrower I made a tool to make the fake weld on the booster tube.

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Place a piece of thin wood in my vice...
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...drilled a hole (4mm) then cut of the top part of the hole with a saw.

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I then filed the hole and gave the sides an angle to make it fit around the booster tube.

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Atleast I can promise one thing, my next fake weld will look better. This was my first and I'll file it under the "still learning" section..
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Half way through I saw that my wooden weld-making tool (WWT) wouldn't fit right. The epoxy putty hardens fast, so I got the scissors and cut away a lot of my WWT. If you look closely at this photo you can see the small pieces of wood scattered all over..
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(The weld is just the lower part on the booster tube. The rest is from fixing my crooked cut from angeling the tube).

After that I cleaned up the insides a little more and added some clear, flexible coating to the holes in the cyclotron and other places where need be..
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Finished of todays build with a little cosmetic work and strengthening of the wand housing.
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The resin cast had a weak spot near the hat light. I noticed it when I tried the light with a LED bulb. Today I noticed a tiny crack
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So I got my epoxy putty out and used it on the inside.

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I tried to be as careful as possible, but I managed to crack it a little more.

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I've left it to harden and I'll give it 12 hours before I do any more work (sets in 20 minutes, but then I'm sure it won't crack any more.
#4858460
Venkman's Swagger wrote:You're knocking this thing out man. Your fake welds look far better than mine on my nickatron thrower. I really struggled to get mine right.
:) Building this is truly a learning experience!
#4858471
Some updates:
Strengthened the back where I'll screw in the gun mount
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I'll be adding that part ones it hardened for 24 hours.


Carved off the epoxy residue left after the plates fell off.
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That took a lot longer than I expected! Used a worker knife (probably called something else in English) and got it off.
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Epoxyed them on again, I rushed to this on account of a tight schedule yesterday (and that would come back and bite me in the bumper the next day, but more on that later).

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I marked out the hole for the power cell lights
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I took the outline of the blue lens from GBFans to make sure I don't cut it to large
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Then I took the board with the lights and did the same, to make sure I don't cut it to small.

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It looks like it will be about right :)
I'll cut it tonight.

Finally made the holes and attached the bumper. I have a volguus bumper from Nick-a-tron, and you can see where the washers and bellows was placed on the screen used bumper. I used that to my advantage. Found center of the shock mount, drilled through it, placed it on the bumper and drilled some more.
That way I could see if it lined up with the center I found on the cyclotron.
It did and I marked where I would drill the hole.
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When I attached it on the sides some of the plates fell off. This time it was all on me, I hadn't covered the back with enough epoxy [Facepalm]
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Happy with the result.
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The center screw is just a temporary one, the type I want to use I bought too short Image
I'll get the right length, add the spacer and secure it all with a washer and a locking nut inside the cyclotron.

'till all are one :)
Last edited by Morfeusoneiros on March 22nd, 2016, 9:33 am, edited 2 times in total.
#4858475
Venkman's Swagger wrote:Man I love the Volguus bumper. I have it on my Semi Hero. You did an awesome job on mounting it
Thanks :)
Attaching the bumper made it feel even more like a proton pack. I guess I'll be getting that feeling more and more as the build progresses :)
#4858515
twmedford23 wrote:Please dont cut your powercell window that large.
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Is this to large? I do want all the lights on the powercell to show though, but maybe it is to large for a SC Shell?

What size (inches or cm) would you recommend?
Your input is much appreciated :)
#4858521
My local hardware store struck out on both the right screws and spacer for the bumper, so decided to make my own spacer. I based it on this screen-used bumper:
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While the bumper was still on the shell I marked where it entered the cyclotron with a silver sharpie, measured it and made it out of a discarded pen

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Placed it in my vice and used a small hacksaw
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Turned out as I wanted
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Had a quick test-fitting before I sanded it and primed it
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Also sanded and primed the volguus bumper. I don't want it all smooth, but show some of the same characteristics as the bumper on the Sony Lobby packs.

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Got a new chrome spray, not sure after first coat. Looks to much like silver and not chrome at all...
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Hoping it will be better once it's dried
Last edited by Morfeusoneiros on March 22nd, 2016, 4:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#4858622
Just went through this whole thread! Awesome job so far man. Hope the painting is going better this time around.
#4858625
Thank you all :)
The new paint don't seem to react in the same way. So "yeah" to that :)

Since it's easter break in Norway we started our vacation visiting the children's great grandmother. It's a long drive, so most of the day went before we got home. Since I was dead tired I probably should've left the shell alone, but the building itch just had to be scratched and I messed up the shell beneath the gun mount...

Started out okay with me checking the reference pics to find the best and accurate placement.
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Marked it with my sharpie and drilled the holes. Found a drillbit that fit the holes like a glove...
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...but the backpiece just wouldn't fit properly inside the shell. The screws that came with the part was to short to go through the ekstra plastic I added on the inside and none of my metric screws would fit.. Either to small or to large.
Ejgunth's parts is to great for me to mess up by drilling into it, so I decided to remove the plating. After a little job getting it of I soon found that it still wouldn't fit. Part of account of the rounded corners on the shell and the fiberglass I added. Didn't want the gun mount to fall of with my wand attached, so accuracy had to make way for a better and more secure fit.

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But in doing so I left my shell looking like a slice of Jarlsberg cheese and don't want the shell to crack either..
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Used epoxy putty to fix it..
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And when I used this torx screwdriver it sat firmly on the shell.
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End result okay, but a louzy prosess to get there... :)
Now I'm off to the Mountains for the rest of the week, so the putty will have time to set.

Have a nice easter all that celebrates it :)
#4858642
Don't sweat it man, most of that won't be seen. Once you've painted your shell and reattached the VHook just add a good amount of Araldite to the inner plate. That will keep everything nice and secure and will add extra strength.

Happy Easter to you too!
#4858645
Venkman's Swagger wrote:Don't sweat it man, most of that won't be seen. Once you've painted your shell and reattached the VHook just add a good amount of Araldite to the inner plate. That will keep everything nice and secure and will add extra strength.

Happy Easter to you too!
You're right and I agree to that. Have stocked up on Araldite for the rest of the build. Came upon a shop that still had some syringes in stock :)
Now I'm off to the mountains and will take a little break from building.. But will still be looking for the perfect Eda discs and some other tidbits to make the pack better. Never know what'll turn up at the cabin :)
#4859063
Found no treasures at the cabin this time, even the MDF-plate that my father said he had, turned out to be unusable (it had fake bathroom tiles on the back and was too thick).

Got home last night and got some painting done. The new paint is working out much better so far!
Most parts are painted, used today finishing the clippard for the gun and the shock mount.

Clippard valve started out as a nice resin piece from Nick-a-tron:
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Gave it two coats of chrome paint and three black coats. Made sure to keep the great details:
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Still needed to get the label. Haven't got much room left in my budget, so I got some cheap ones off of Ebay
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There's no label for the 331, just 501 and 701. Is the 501 used on any packs?

Cut out the label and wanted to laminate it before putting it on my valve
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First round with tape left it with a lot of airbubbles...
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Used an ice-scraper when applied the tape so couldn't really understand why it was so many bubbles, but the cheap tape held the answer
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Put it around my original clippard 331 to get the right shape
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Left it there for a couple of hours before I attached it to my painted resin cast
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Wanted the middle part to be like the original (brass, not silver) so I sanded down the top and gave it a coat of brass ImageImage
Epoxyed (Araldite!) the top piece and let it set for some hours (Image).
Final result:
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The shock mount first got a round with stealwool grade 0000 to get some of the brass powder in the resin to shine a little
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The top got a coat of silver chrome
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Then the sides got a brass coat and the base a thin coat of black
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Broke off a small piece when attaching it to the bumper earlier, so it joined the 701 to set
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Final result:
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#4859109
He's back!! Welcome back buddy. Good to see some more updates. I'm pretty sure there hasn't ever been a 501 Clippard used on any pack, certainly not from the research I've done. Good job on the bellows and Clippard, came out great!!
#4859140
rayp_Stantz wrote:Great progress man!

About powercell. Mine is as huge as yours. I would recommend to make it a bit thinner linke already said above.

Greets
Thanks. Yeah, I'll cut it thinner. The lines on my shell is the outer limits (beware the sandkings!).
Great with the feedback on my build, so I don't mess up to much along the way :)
Haven't started cutting yet. The shell felt a little unsturdy when I was about to cut, so now I'm strengthening the lower side with some cutting plate parts.
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Measured and made sure that I still could fit the powercell lense latter, before I epoxyed:
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More updates later tonight ;)
#4859141
Venkman's Swagger wrote:He's back!! Welcome back buddy. Good to see some more updates. I'm pretty sure there hasn't ever been a 501 Clippard used on any pack, certainly not from the research I've done. Good job on the bellows and Clippard, came out great!!
Thanks :)
Good to be back.
I've never seen or heard of a 501 either. Guess that's what you get when you go for a cheaper option. The rest looks okay, but I'll double-check them if I need to use any of them later on (might end up on my sons pack when I finish that one..)
My dad actually got hold of some materials for my motherboard through a friend, so hopefully that will be done this weekend. Crossing my fingers on those materials being usable :)
#4859160
Got a package from the GBFans store today with some more parts and started attaching the booster plug.
The screws from attaching the booster tube made the plug stick out to far:

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So took a spacer, same as the ones inside the booster tube, and used it to mark the area I needed to remove:
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Put it in my vice and cut it with a hacksaw:
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Then I used a mallet, a chisel and a file to get most of it removed.
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I chose to do it this way to reduse the amount of dust when using the Dremel for all of it, but I did finish it with it
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And after a quick wash it fit perfectly:

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Also got some straight fittings and as always I started with staring at the reference photos and the blueprints.
Saw that the lower fitting was centered on the EDA discs. Started there and marked the center. Then I put the PPD and vacuum line on the pack to get the right placement for both fittings:

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Got out my 10mm drillbit and made the holes:

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As the last time I could screw them in :)

Did some minor work on the pack and I
attached the missing part on the gearbox:
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Used wood this time, as the cutting board was to thick:
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Marked the cutting lines and used the vice and a hacksaw:
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Sanded it with a slight curve. Since the shell has curved edges I placed it at the end of the curve, I'll fill it in later:
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Held it in place using the rest of the wooden piece
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I'll use this to fill it in and make it even:
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Final piece of work today was placing the clippard 701 on the gun:
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(Happy with the paint on the part next to it also BTW). Also got the Cliplites, but those I'll add later.

Been kept a close eye on all day by my supervisor and now he says I'll have to call it a day, heh heh :)

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#4859252
Today life got in the way of building (but great day with my sons football(soccer) practice as a fun highlight).

Decided to finish as much as possible on my thrower this weekend so the little I did today was on it:

Got the cliplites on the housing and instrument panel.
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Used a 6,5mm drillbit to drill the holes.
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Wanted to attach the instrument panel aswell, but was a little unsure about how to place it.


Either centered on the gun track:
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Which leaves a little on top...
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...or the other way round
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And get a little room underneath
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After seeing that some guns have the extra room underneath I've decided to do that and add a little epoxy putty or something similar at the bottom. That is at the top of my to do list for tomorrow.

Only other work I got done was preping the triggertip.

The trigger wouldn't fit all the way through Image
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Placed it in the vice and drilled a bigger hole
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Drilled all the way through, didn't want to drill from the other side and nick the edge of the resin part.
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I'll remove the bottom washer and just use the nut to make it stay in place. I'll paint it black to make it a little less noticable
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Thanks for looking :)
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