[gregg.nowling]

Hello all!

Well I'm new here, but not new to the hobby....but I wanted to dive right in. I woke up one day last week with the desire to build the reboot pack, so here I am.

So far I have the plans for the motherboard off to the machine shop, and hopefully they will be done in the next week or two and I've started doing some of the 3d printed parts. Most of the 3d printed parts will eventually be molded and made out of fiberglass. My buddy and I are working on packs together, so there is no sense in cleaning up parts twice, not to mention they'll hold up longer if they are fiberglass.

The bowl inside of the syncrotron will be the only part that stays as a 3d printed piece. Since it will never really be seen, and it's an exceptionally complex piece, it just isn't worth molding.





I'm using TheLegendOfMart's beautiful thrower box that he's shared on Thingiverse. I'm probably going to make a few small upgrades to it to enhance the 3d printed details. I'm replacing the back plate with a laser cut piece I made, and I'm probably going to replace any screws with real ones in the final version. This will be fiberglass when it's done too.









I've got some parts on order while I wait on the motherboard to come in, and then I'll get into this a little more deeply.

Thanks for letting me play guys and girls!

Gregg

[gregg.nowling]

Not much new to report, but I've made progress on the synchrotron.



For the copper wire I ended up using a copper metallic needlepoint thread from JoAnns. It was about 1000 times easier to work with than real wire, and and looks the same...if not better.

For the coiling, I used a coffee deliming spring I found here:

http://www.webstaurantstore.com/coffee- ... oCFHTw_wcB

It's a little thinner than I'd like, but if I tried to use a screen door spring, but it ended up being too thick to use with the 3d printed file from Thingiverse, so I thought this was a good compromise. I still need to touch up the paint a bit, but I'm going to call this one done for the most part.

[TheLegendOfMart]

Looks great!

Once my trap is finished I am looking at going back doing a version 3 of the gun box. Do you have any suggestions?

[gregg.nowling]

I'll have to think about it. I think it's a great kit for being 3d printed. The only issue I've had on my end is that I will have to custom order tubing to come out of it, since there are no off the shelf parts from the DIY store that match up. Other than that it's about perfect.

Looks great!

Once my trap is finished I am looking at going back doing a version 3 of the gun box. Do you have any suggestions?

[TheLegendOfMart]

Yeah it's a difficult one because not everyone can get the same size of pipe. I used someone elses plans for the barrel and grip hence why they arent off the shelf.

[MightyAni]

For the copper wire I ended up using a copper metallic needlepoint thread from JoAnns. It was about 1000 times easier to work with than real wire, and and looks the same...if not better.

Smart. Damn smart!

[TheLegendOfMart]

For the copper wire I ended up using a copper metallic needlepoint thread from JoAnns. It was about 1000 times easier to work with than real wire, and and looks the same...if not better.

Smart. Damn smart!

Indeed, I stole the idea for my build when I do it

[vmax1974]

Will be watching this with interest looking forwrd to seeing how my mobo turns out

[gregg.nowling]

Will be watching this with interest looking forwrd to seeing how my mobo turns out

Me too!

[shoujoaifan]

Looks sweet!

[gregg.nowling]

I love 3D printing for what it is. It's a great way of prototyping parts, but I seldom ever think they should be the final part.

Looking on Thingiverse the other day I found a full wand available to print. Not wanting the entire thing because I want to have as much metal and fiberglass as possible, and I also have LegendofMart's box already printed, I cut out the grip section to add to my wand.

The Legend box is set to accept a piece of tubing with a 1.125" OD. This initial print had an area to receive tubing, but it was 1.25" diameter, so I'm scaling it down 10% to make it fit the tubing I'll need.

Once the print comes out the way I want it. I'll modify it, clean it up, soften all of the detailing, mold it, cast it in either fiberglass or resin, and get a couple of coats of Plastidip on it. I know it's probably a lot of work, but I think ultimately it's a good base to work from. Or I'm completely wrong.



I also ordered some 3D part coating from SmoothOn, which I'll be trying out this week. Hopefully that works as well as advertised.

Gregg

[TheLegendOfMart]

The reason the box only accepts smaller tube is because the barrel on the real thing is smaller going into the box which tapers out into 1.25" for the barrel that has all the holes in which also holds the grip.

[MightyAni]

Well done, Gregg!

One of the reasons I like 3D printing a lot of the parts for this is weight. As Danielle from the UK said in a Youtube video in which she talked about her packs, I'm not sure I'm going to be wanting to walk around a Con for 10 hours with 25+ pounds on my back.

I know it was said in the Parts Identification thread that a props person from the set said there were no 3D printed parts, it was all fabricated, but the gals were only wearing these packs when they were actively shooting scenes, right? So if the packs were heavy, at least they weren't wearing them that long. Think about Cons and Halloween and how much walking around you're going to be doing.

That said, you could also have some modularity to it, so that if you knew you were going to be on your feet, carrying a pack all day, you could swap out your fabricated metal parts for 3D printed ones. But if you're showing the pack off and people are going to be looking at it closely, you could put on your metals.

TL;DR: I am going for 3D printed parts first for Halloween and weight, but will replace with fabricated metal ones over time until I have all machined parts and I've built up my strength to carry 35+ lbs all day.

[gregg.nowling]

MightyAni... I probably won't honestly be wearing the pack very much, it'll primarily be a display piece. That being said, I think you are totally spot on about using 3d printing for the weight issue. It's a great alternative. I really want to have has screen accurate of a piece as possible that will look good hanging on the wall.

All of that being said...I am geeked about the idea of wearing it

Gregg

[gregg.nowling]

The reason the box only accepts smaller tube is because the barrel on the real thing is smaller going into the box which tapers out into 1.25" for the barrel that has all the holes in which also holds the grip.

It wasn't a complaint about your box. I think your box is spot on...I was saying the grip is wrong

I just ordered some 1.125" tubing so I'm anxious to make it all go together.

Gregg

[vmax1974]

Good find on the grips why not take a fibreglass mould then cast in soft polyurethane

Any chance you could email me the stl for those grips

[gregg.nowling]

Good find on the grips why not take a fibreglass mould then cast in soft polyurethane

Any chance you could email me the stl for those grips

Sure. Just message me your email addy.

Gregg

[TheLegendOfMart]

It wasn't a complaint about your box. I think your box is spot on...I was saying the grip is wrong

I just ordered some 1.125" tubing so I'm anxious to make it all go together.

Gregg

I'm planning on getting the smaller pipe and larger pipe and fitting one over another, I think I've sourced some Aluminium pipe in the UK then I'm going to 3D model the barrel end and slip it into the larger pipe.



Also I made the warning 'label' from the top of the box. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/386 ... arning.stl

I have no idea if it will print properly, I desperately need my own 3D printer so I can test things before releasing.

[MightyAni]

Goodness. If this is what you can do as an "amateur," then I can't wait to see the kinds of ass you'll kick at "expert!"

[gregg.nowling]

So the business end of the wand has been on my mind this last day or so.




I took this photo into Corel Draw to get some measurements off of them to extrapolate some things, and I keep coming up with the same conclusion...even though it feels wrong. I apologize if this has already been covered somewhere else.

If the smaller width of everything is 3.5" per the pictures, then that makes the tube with the holes 1.5". Assuming that all of the different sizes of metal tubing used to make this end have .125" wall thicknesses....that makes the smaller tube that plugs into the box 1.25" diameter.

I've drawn it up here, and it all fits together pretty well perfectly. I even tried drawing it up with a larger diameter tube because I feel it should be bigger, but it didn't look right.



I'm definitely open to opinions.

Gregg

[TheLegendOfMart]

Bugger, my box is 1.37". I really don't know where I got my dimensions from I cant find or remember :/

[gregg.nowling]

Bugger, mine is 1.37". I really don't know where I got my dimensions from I cant find or remember :/

For the small tube or the larger tube?

Gregg

[TheLegendOfMart]

I was wrong, the box you printed is 1.5" into the box. I could model a reducer from mine to 1.25" if you wanted?

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/386 ... educer.stl

[gregg.nowling]

I was wrong, the box you printed is 1.5" into the box. I could model a reducer from mine to 1.25" if you wanted?

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/386 ... educer.stl

I won't reprint the box for me personally, but if that ends up being the right size, then it'd be a good upgrade. I'm waiting to hear back from my machinist buddy to see if he'll do this for me, and if so I'll run a prototype and see how it all fits together.

Gregg

[TheLegendOfMart]

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38699145/barrel.zip

Made a barrel insert as well, 1.25" to 1.5".

[gregg.nowling]

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38699145/barrel.zip

Made a barrel insert as well, 1.25" to 1.5".

You rock.

[gregg.nowling]

I've been staring at this all day, and beginning to rethink things.

I'm looking at this picture, and thinking that maybe the large pipe is 1.75" and reduces down to 1.5"....just like Legend's box is set up for. Me always trying to reinvent the wheel.

[TheLegendOfMart]

Found that here in tommyb345 build thread. Not sure how accurate it is.

[gregg.nowling]

His blueprints look pretty well identical to my smaller set of measurements. The thing I'm going back and forth about is how big the bigger tube is. 1.5" looks so small...and while 2" looks right on the big tube, it skews everything else and won't fit on the box....and I feel very good with the measurements on the box.

So....I'm thinking I'll just do it with the smaller tube at 1.5" and the larger at 1.75".

Gregg

[TheLegendOfMart]

I think what is throwing it off is where the hose attaches to the handle its thinner then steps out to 1.25" for the main grip handle.

1.25" and 1.5" sound/look about right.




You can just about see where the grip is it steps down into a smaller diameter.