User avatar
By askernas
#4888216
Hi all!

So, I've got a few items already in store, and lots more coming. Pics on that when they arrive, but for now: I thought I'd start off the thread with a quick retelling of the story when I modified my Clippard to act as a volume control.

Settle down, children... it all happened just like this:

One of the features on both the proton pack and the thrower (the "gun" if you will) on the Ghostbusters costume from 1984, is a Clippard Valve. It is apparently used for something in the real world. In the Ghostbusters world, it is a thing that looks cool.

A while back, I 3d printed a copy of a clippard to keep on my proton pack to keep the weight down, and sitting right next to the real deal, it looks pretty good!

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The twist knob still needs a little more work, but I've got a resin copy of that coming in, but what I'm devoting THIS post to, is modifying the original Clippard (The one that is supposed to go on the gun) to work as a volume controller for my proton pack.

After first opening the clippard and taking it apart, removing everything on the inside, I had to first saw off the round tab on the bottom and drill a hole, allowing the cable to run through.

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I also 3d designed a huge spacer/holder for the potentiometer that was to be placed inside the clippard.

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I needed to cut down the pins on the potentiometer in order to make it fit properly, and once it was cut down and the wires were soldered, this what I was left with.

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In the picture you can also see a spacer that I threaded and had screwed in place, and blue painters tape on the threads and rotary part of the potentiometer. You'll see why shortly...

To make sure I had enough room for the solder joints, I drilled out the top of the inside of the Clippard with a stepper drill, just to give some more space. The enclosure will be held in place 6 mm further down where the inside diameter will match the 3d printed enclosure perfectly.

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The potentiometer fit like a glove into my 3d printed enclosure.

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Pushed down into the Clippard with the cable going out through the hole I drilled in the bottom:

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When I started to put the clippard together, the thin axel of the potentiometer didn't exactly look like the original... so I had to do something here. I took the original threaded part that was hooked up to the clippard and the rotary knob, and put it in my power drill with a metal blade to cut off a small piece.

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It was still larger than the potentiometer on the inside, so a few turns with painters tape was just right to center the brass bit.

<a href="http://r2d2.askernas.com/wp-content/upl ... .jpg"><img class="alignnone size-large wp-image-2422" src="http://r2d2.askernas.com/wp-content/upl ... 15x820.jpg[/IMG]

Finally, attaching the knob at the top again, and I now have a potentiometer for the volume built into my Thrower Clippard!

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Can't wait to actually fit this on my pack in the (hopefully) near future.
User avatar
By askernas
#4888506
I've started to draw and print some of the things that go on the proton pack and gun... not to mention the fully 3d printed trap ...

On the proton pack, I am trying to save on weight but not on quality, so some of the parts I've decided to 3d print. One of the items I just started testing with is the Clippard.

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First print off the bed was not as smooth as I wanted, due to some of my export settings not being fine tuned enough for the circular top. I exported and printed a second one that was slightly smoother, but kept this for reference. It is a good reference of what a raw 3d print looks like, even when printed in good quality.

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What I don't get is this: Many people that 3d print parts for costumes or gadgets never put in enough work with sanding and polishing the 3d prints, making them looking not good enough!

This is not going to happen with my Clippard!

I started off by sanding off the biggest irregularities, getting it fairly smooth, then a coating of spray filler ... then sanding again to get it smooth.

A few places (most notably the top of the thumbscrew on the valve) was also hit with a few coats of Tamaiya Putty, to remove the print lines. Again, sanded away most of it, to get a smooth finish.

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Once sanding was done, I painted everything black. Two quick coats did the trick.

Although it is cold and freezing outside, I still painted them quickly and then used my fiancées hair drier to harden the paint just enough so I could bring them inside without smelling the place up.

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I then masked the top portion away and clear coated the majority of the body of the valve.

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My plan was to use Silver Leaf Rub and Buff for the metal part of the top of the valve, and as experience have shown me, this does not stick well on clear coated surfaces, but on raw painted surfaces, it fit just great! I also treated the top screw with Rub and Buff.

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Once that was finished, all that was left was to add a metal sticker on top of it, to create my finished valve. Please note that in the pic below are two different types of valves, so they should look slightly different. The one on the left was my 3d printed version.

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And ... as a final comparison, here are the final result compared to the 3d printed raw print. The knurling on the screw could be slightly better, but it is only really visible when being very close to the valve, and I am giving you the full horror here...

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Besides, I will be getting a resin version of this in the near future and will replace the 3d printed with a more accurate resin version,

All in all, I am happy with the results, and this baby weighs just a few grams as opposed to the original, which ways about 100 times more. Every gram counts when you wear it on your back!

More updates shortly!

Cheers,

Micke
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User avatar
By askernas
#4891548
So, a while back, I finally received my beautiful Nick-a-tron fiberglass proton pack hero kit.

At the core, the basic shell is what I'd use to work from, but even though it is amazing, there is still a lot of work to do on it!

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First off, I drilled out part of the holes used for the lights in the cyclotron. (it is these holes here thad I already had done a quick drill through with my step drill.)

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As you see, they are far from perfect, but I had planned to spend a little time with the shell and my trusty dremel!

Armed with a sanding drum, I went ahead and sanded those round.

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It is a pretty messy work, so it is definitely recommended to do this outside. Also recommended is to wear some sort of dust protector or rebreather. VERY recommended, in fact.

We had one of our first really sunny nice days outside in a long while, so it was perfect to spend a little time on the shell while my wife had a friend over and Emma played with her daughter in the mean time.

Once sanding was done, it was time to put on the cutting wheel and cut open the slot where the blue LED's are going to be in the future. A steady hand and going slow made for a pretty decent result.

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I also spent a little time removing some of the artefacts from the casting process to get my shell as good as can be. I will still need to bondo and sand parts of it more, but at least I have started.

During the evening, I also found a little time to plan for where I would place the N-filter... I think. I marked it out with a sharpie after gently scratching the outside of the N-filter into gel coat with a scalpel. If I end up moving it, a little bondo will cover these marks without issues before painting.

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I also ended up making a holder for the split loom (the hose going to the gun portion) that is not exactly 100% screen accurate, but it will hold the loom in place wonderfully. I 3d printed this out of reinforced PLA. (Normal PLA would do, but I had reinforced PLA loaded, so it will be nice and sturdy.)

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I designed this a while back before actually having the split loom in hand, so a few minor modifications was needed... and it ens up holding the loom perfectly.

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My plan is to to put threaded brass inserts into the bottom portion, allowing me to use M3 bolts to hold it together and have no fatigue in the plastic.

More to come another day! :D
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User avatar
By askernas
#4891869
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Earlier, I had marked where the round N-filter would go on my proton pack.

My first thought was to cut open the Fiberglass shell and insert the N-Filter inside, but for some reason, I decided to go down another path.

My thick, aluminium N-filter had to be ut to match the profile of my proton pack!

This is definitely a scary prospect as I don't have a proper metal workshop, and a failed result would be harder to patch up. Never the less, time to get cutting.

I started by making a paper profile by wrapping around the N-Filter and slid it off and cut where I had to cut the metal. Once I was happy with a good starting point, I taped this down firmly onto the N-Filter and made a few futile attempts to cut the thick metal with a small metal blade. I quickly decided that using my dremel was the way to go!

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The corners were done by drilling down with a step drill until I got close enough, and then filing down with a sharp file until I reached my cut outs.

I cut sparingly, making sure I had plenty of material left that needed filing and sanding down to make a perfect fit.

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Just to give you an idea of how thick the material is, check this out:

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Once the base cuts were made, I spent quite a lot of time by filing and testing, testing and filing. Repeat ad infinitum, it seemed. I made up a simple basic program to describe the process better:
Code: Select all
10 sand and file
20 test fit
30 goto 10
After a while, I came up with this:

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The more alert eyes see that the cut-out is not perfectly straight, but that was the result of test fitting, as the fiber glass proton pack is not 100% straight at times.

It did, however fit quite well:

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The last step is of course to paint this and insert the mesh inside and finally bondo it to the fiberblass surface. I will need to drill a hole in the fiberglass shell where this sits at some point, in order to add smoke coming out of the filter, but that is another exercise for another day.
User avatar
By askernas
#4891878
What? Another update on the same evening? Yup!

When I was looking through the packages that had arrived the past week, I found that I had my B4m Switchcraft connectors that I had put to the side and almost forgot about.

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So, armed with those (got charging plugs and toggle switches on the way) I decided to start working on my charging plate for my Proton Pack.

I have already decided to go with the "Spengler version", so the Spengler charging plate it is!

I found a sales thread on the forum that had a pretty clear image of this, and knowing the size of the Switchcraft connector, I estimated the size of the plate itself to be 4 cm high by 10 cm long. In addition to this, there is also an angled plate that is riveted against the larger plate. Not having any proper metal working tools, I had no idea ho to do this one yet. More on that later.

So, I quickly drew something in my CAD program, exported to an image file and printed out the pattern on self-adhesing labels, and stuck these on some 0.8mm aluminium plate I had laying about from other projects.

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Cutting these out is easy. I simply use score and snap, but hen it comes to aluminium, I need to score a lot, deep and hard with my break blade knife. Once I can see a hint of the cut on the back side, I can simply push down on a flat surface at an angle, and the piece will bend right where I scored it. Bending back and forth a few times and I have a perfect cut! Works every time!

Next step is to use my metal awl punch and mark out those holes and start drilling. The Switchcraft connector needs about 20mm hole to fit through, the charging plug 8mm, and the switch that I plan on using, 6mm.

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So, the hole did not get 100% centered. I drilled it holding it in my hand with a step drill, so not very surprised. However, it is not as bad as it seems, and in the end, you won't be able to tell the difference anyway.

Once the holes were done (I had to make the large hole even larger when test fitting), off to wet sand both front and back side to make that nice, brushed aluminium look.

Compare this to the raw metal in the background!

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Next step was to make the small angled plate that would be riveted to this. Same procedure here. Cut with score and snap, then drill time.

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Once it was cut out and drilled, I had to make a 90 degree straight bend somehow. I ended up fixing the metal to a piece of wood with a teel ruler and clamped it down heavily. I then gently starting pushing down towards the wood in order to make the portruding part bend. Once I had a bend at a big angle enough, I simply put the piece of wood with the clamped down piece and pushed it straight down at a 90 degree angle. Worked like a charm!

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Next up: wet sanding...

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And then time for the final step: Riveting the plates together. I had not drilled the rivet holes in my bigger plate up until now just to make sure they'd align, but they aligned well, so I drilled and pop riveted them together and got this result:

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Now I'm just waiting for the final parts to arrive, and tomorrow I'll make another one for a friend.
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User avatar
By askernas
#4892062
Venkman's Swagger wrote:Nice updates mate. Coming along really well
Thank you! I hope to get some more work done this weekend, weather allowing.
I've placed an order for a CPU64 all metal thrower, and will try and fix the curved ridges on the shell... and more. I need to fix a new motherboard as the gbfans mobo I purchased is a tad too large and a tad too small at the same time.
User avatar
By askernas
#4892075
Just a quick update: I made a new charging plate and also picked up the DPDT switches from the local electronics store.

I am still waiting for the panel mount charging plugs, and as soon as those arrive, these two are fully finished! =)

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I quite enjoyed making these =)
#4892098
GohstTarp wrote:Those charging plates look great... and will look even better installed. Keep up the hard work!
askernas wrote:I've placed an order for a CPU64 all metal thrower
Excellent. You won't be disappointed with Chris' work. Top notch stuff.
Thank you. I've been looking at your build thread for inspiration =) .. where did you think I first saw the loom holder, that I made a 3d printed version of ? =) (mine is split into twp with a ridge inside, so just closing it will hold the loom)

Except for the thrower, I will attempt to make the other alu parts myself...

I've been drooling over Chris's alu thrower since day 1 and it wasn't until now I sort of decided to splurge.. ;)
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#4892410
The past couple of days have been slow work.

Yesterday, we had a terrorist attack in central Stockholm, and my fiancée and daughter were in town earlier that day at the hospital, and passed the area where the incident happened, but fortunately, that was some 30 minutes before the incident.

Had my fiancée decided to go shopping, something she considered, things might have been different.

But, I digress.

A while ago, I bought an acrylic tube for my proton gun online with the assumption that I could prepare and fix it myself. My theory was that I could easily sand off the tip myself, then mask off the areas on the tube that should be frosted, and work them over with sand paper.

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I also picked up a few plastic funnels from a car shop, and rolled up a paper, marking what stuck out of the funnel.

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Cut the area out from a piece of sand paper (by the way, a great way to sharpen your scissors!)...

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... add some spray photo mount on the back...

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Push a rod through to act as a guide for my power drill, and guide the acrylic tube...

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... and I thought everything would be fine.

It wasn't.

Turns out I can't even superglue the sand paper to the funnel. It is absolutely THE worst type of plastic to glue anything to. When I did manage to get it to stick somewhat, I ran into another error. The wooden stick I used to fasten the funnel in my power drill was not long enough to go all the way through, so it scraped the inside of the acrylic tube.

The idea here was that I'd hold on the to the acrylic, while spinning the funnel with my power drill, and gently pushing the acrylic towards it, sanding off the tip at 45 degrees. It kinda worked.... but it was a good thing my acrylic was a tad longer than I needed. Time to saw it off and try again!

One thing I felt a lot better on, was my continued work at prepping the shell.

Last week I straightened out the ribs where the V-hook will be mounted, using wooden sticks and two component epoxy putty, an idea I blatantly nicked from GohstTarp's build.

I didn't snap a good "before" picture, but... let's just say that I had a good 3 mm to fill in the middle, plus some air bubble towards the bottom of one fin, and a lot of sanding.

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This is the result after using wood sticks as guide to get a straight line, and I have just pushed the wood putty on to the crooked ribs.

Once dried, it was sanding galore. I brought out my small mouse sander and went crazy. This was the result:

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These ribs are really straight now! *yay*

You can see in the curvature how much it was crooked, and one of them had an air bubble that I later filled.

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Then up to today: I thought I'd run the shell over with some paint while I had the time. The proton pack should be black, as you know, and the fiber glass shell I have, was grey.

I had cut up a few holes needed, and also sanded off a few places on the shell, and really wanted to see how it looked when painted.

Having learned my lesson in the past when it comes to spray paint, the key is to build the paint up in thin layers that are set to dry in between.

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After going over it 3-4 times, I was left with this:

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I noted that the paint did the scratches made when positioning the N-filter became even more prominent, and some of the artefacts from the moulding was also more visible than I'd like. I know the proton pack surface (the base part) should have a bit of texture to it, but I have bought a special paint for that, to get it the hammered look.

Anyway, I decided more work was needed on this, so I went ahead and covered the proton pack again with some spray can body filler. Ironically, it is grey.. So i painted my grey pack black, so I could paint it grey again...

The only thing that stayed black for now was the N-filter.

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Here's the pack with my grey body filler in it:

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I spent about half an hour sanding on it in the late evening, but as the light was so bad, I couldn't get a good picture of it. I'll continue sanding tomorrow when some of the extra filler I added after another air bubble showed its face, and I'll go over the pack with a better grade sand paper. Maybe even wet sand it in the bath tub.
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#4892419
Continuing where I left off late yesterday evening, I put in a little of work this morning as it is going to be a really great first day of Spring, we are planning to have a family outing later on, so some things have to be done now!

First off, my fiancée caught me in the shower doing something I didn't want her to know I was doing..

NO! Not that! Shame on you!

I was wet sanding my proton pack!

After I left off yesterday evening, I had sprayed my proton pack with body filler and started to sand with 180 grit sandpaper and this morning, in the shower, I was wet sanding the entire pack with a much smoother 400 grit sand paper.

It came out quite well. The irregularities I wanted to get rid of, were at least good enough. The ones that are left will be covered by the hammered texture paint, or behind things that are mounted on top of the shell

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Next up, drying the shell off and take it outside where I let it sit for a few minutes before it was time to spray it again.

The key to get a good coat is to build it up in small layers.

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After going over it a few times (still will go over some parts one more time), this is what I'm left with.

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It is hard to see the difference on the picture, but the shell is much smoother and some irregularities and blobs of resin and air bubbles have now been sorted. The shell is still a bit wonky though. Maybe I should do a Wonkman instead of Venkman pack... ;)

(The original packs were wonky as well)

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Lastly, I had my friend Tommi K. send me an outline of his motherboard for his Nick-a-tron shell, as the gbfans motherboard I bought did not fit.

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I come from the world of R2-D2 building where all measurements are agreed and therefor all parts fit everything. This is not the case here, but no biggie.

I took the outline, cut in 3 parts and scanned it with an A3 scanner at work, then worked with tracing the outline in my CAD program until I came up with this:

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I will print the outline of it and test fit a dummy mockup before I send this off to another friend with a CNC cutter to cut my own, perfectly fitting, motherboard.
User avatar
By askernas
#4892492
One of the ideas I've had is that the reference picture I've seen seemed to point to the shell being painted with a hammered look, and the things put on it, on a flat black.

I searched for a good colour that might have some texture or depth into it, and came across Hammerite, which is essentially used for painting steel.

I've primed my proton pack for painting over the weekend, and late last night I masked off the areas I wanted to be flat black and went over it with hammerite.

It is a bit shiny at the moment, but that will dull down slightly once I apply my non glossy clear coat.

For now, I'll leave you to bask in its glory:

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User avatar
By askernas
#4892603
A couple of minor updates within the last few days, that in itself were not big enough to warrant a blog post, but now..

First off, I took the daring step of drilling hole in my shell for the split loom. I had previously 3d printed a loom holder, and it was time to jump off the cliff..

I marked off where the loom would pass through the shell, and step drilled the hole up to 30mm, which was the diameter of my holder, then used my dremel to cut down from the half circle to the bottom of the shell.

A little sanding and filing, and it turned out pretty good.

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Can't wait for my proper motherboard to arrive so I can start mounting things. I did have to bondo and sand and repaint a bit around the hole, but that was fixed as well as the bondoed piece on the right.

In addition to this, I got a new shipment of fun pieces. Not all of these are accurate, but to my defense, I ordered some of these prior to finding the proper ones.

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Having almost all pieces in place, I decided it was time for my first pic with placement of most parts.

I still intend to replace most resin parts with aluminium, but until I have them, the resin parts will do.

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It was about here I found how wonky some parts of the shell is. The upper left corner where the ion arm is supposed to sit had a height difference of 3 mm from the corner to the inner corner of the ion arm placement. I had to balance the resin ion arm (that I had sanded flat) on an m3 nut on the inner corner for it to not fall down.

To fix this, I decided to mask off parts of that shell, sand down the highest points and add loctite putty to build up a base. It took me about 45 minutes to fix, but the result was pretty good.

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You can clearly see the bulk that was build up. Dry fitting with the ion arm leaves this:

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Nice and flat!

The shell went out on the balcony for a bit of touch up on the hammerite black paint, and once that's dry, most of the shell work should be done.

I also hot glued in my coloured lenses for the power bar and the cyclotron...

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... only to realize that I have RGB LED's in my light pack, and the program does four different colours, so I had to cut them off. Oh well :)

I also took out the metal parts and the black glossy plastic box of my 3d printed ghost trap, courtesy of countspatula and went over them with flat black before assembling again.

I have built in a remote control in my pedal to not have to use the hose for anything functional at all, and I decided to also wire up the LED on the remote to a small LED on the pedal. It is not very bright, but a nice little addition, I think.

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User avatar
By askernas
#4892623
Since I've got a keen interest in 3d design, and have 3d modelled a few things on my spare time, I've started modelling the proton pack.

If anyone would be interested in sending detailed pics of screen accurate packs, preferably with a ruler against them ;) I'd be happy to model the entire pack and put up on github. Resurrect the old thread, sort of.

Did this tonight. Took about an hour in total, due to me having to stop for breaks with my daughter climbing on me ;)

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#4893166
There comes a time in a build project where you just have to commit. To me, that day was today.

I had previously cut up the aluminium N-filter to match the curvature of the shell (fairly well), and today was the day when I decided to really fix it in to place.

I had decided, however, to add a smoke machine and some lightning inside this part, so I needed to make it accessible. The only way of doing this, would be to either have it bolted on somehow, or cut open the shell. I opted for the second option.

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I marked the outline of the n-filter with a marker (on to painters tape, as I had already painted the bulk of the shell, I then went on with drawing a line offset 5-6 mm inside the outline, and used this as an outline for the hole I was going to cut up.
I didn't want to just start cutting with my dremel as I have had "accidents" with the cutting wheel before, so I opted for something more safe. Drilling holes. A lot of them

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Once I had drilled holes all around, and in some places, used my power drill as a mill, this is what I was left with. A big gaping ugly hole. It did however proved ample access from the inside:

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In comes the rotary tool with a sanding extension to clean the jagged edges up nicely. I did touch up some of the cutouts on my N-filter as well, as I had moved it slightly from the originally planed position.

In order to fasten the metal N-filter to the fibre glass shell, I used a two-component epoxy putty. The drawback of this, is that it is fairly fast curing, so I didn't have time to pause for pictures while doing this.

I first rolled a long snake of the putty once I've worked the hardener into the material, and pushed right inside the outline of where the N-filter would go, and then pushed the N-filter (hard) in to place, squishing the putty down. I then removed excess material, and worked up a new bunch of epoxy putty, making snakes again, and this time pushed in the material in the joint between the fibre glass shell and the aluminium filter. Using the wooden end of a fine paintbrush, rubber gloves and pure isopropanol, I smoothed the edges out and cleaned off excess material.

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The isopropanol I have in my workspace is fairly strong, 99.5%, so in addition to the gently rubbing to smooth the putty out, I removed some paint at the same time.

After I was happy with the putty (it took me 3 rounds of adding and smoothing), I let it sit for 10 minutes (I did say it was fast curing) and then gently painted over the joint with normal black paint.

I figured that if the filter was attached to the cyclotron, which was texturized, and welded in place, the paint which was added would not have been texturized. It turned out just great.

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Here's a picture from the inside:
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I have since reinforced the joint slightly from the inside, and removed excess putty with an exacto knife. Next session, I will grind the opening inside to perfectly match the N-filter, then reinforce some more, and start working on the drop-in insert that I am building for the light and smoke machine.

As a final teaser, here are some of the things that dropped in the past week:

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The crank knob is the real thing. Just the wrong colour. Will need to trade or paint it. We'll see.
Last edited by askernas on May 2nd, 2017, 1:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
#4893168
I've also made a new version of the motherboard. I had a friend trace the outlines of his Nick-a-tron motherboard, then scanned it, traced it in my CAD program, printed out a paper copy, compared to my shell, made some adjustments, printed another paper copy again, and made some more minor adjustments.

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I am pretty happy with the outcome, so I made a drill pattern for my speakers as well. This baby will be cut this week. I've got a friend who runs a metal workshop and they have a large metal punch....
twmedford23 liked this
#4893706
Things have been a bit slow on this project for some time. Main reason is that I've been waiting for some key parts that prevents me from going further.

Last week, One of those items arrived.

The all aluminium proton gun by CPU64, and it is a beauty!

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For some reason, I just had to start assembling it, filed the opening for the bar graph just large enough for it to fit, added some switches and buttons and the Clippard valve..

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I lacked a tap for 1/8 inch imperial holes, so I could not finish the top button that should be there.

Also, I have only marked the location for the side knob and the heatsink. Still need to figure out the position of the gun rack to go below.

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Hat light extends a fair bit below the wing, need to check out ref pics for these if I should cut it shorter or not. Most likely not.

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Right now, a lot of wires just shaking lose inside, connected to nothing. I also need to make sure that the wires are not in the way for the pop out mechanism Chris (CPU64) has made. Another thing I need to figure out is how to attach the acrylic tip to the metal tube inside. I am thinking E-6000 or possibly hot glue.

As soon as I get the tap, I can finish off 99% of my proton gun. There is still some work to do, but mainly mounting electronics and rumble pack. I might 3d print some holders for things inside, or use the wall where the heat sink should be placed for getting a few screws for mounting things inside the gun itself.

Another thing I have been waiting for just got picked up by a friend of mine and is being delivered on Monday: Behold! My laser cut motherboard, complete with speaker holes!

This one is a bit scary as it was drawn and designed purely in CAD and should fit my Nick-a-tron shell, in theory, but I won't know until I've actually tried.

I chose not to add any holes for rivets at this point, for obvious reasons ;)

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(I just love how the mother board is first: upside down, and on the wrong side up. It's almost difficult to place it more wrong =)
rayp_Stantz liked this
#4893716
They make a lawnmower fuel filter that is the same exact shape and size as the N-filter that goes on the top of the pack and the one that goes on the bottom of the cyclotron. I didn't know if one had a different name than the one on top of the pack but it's made of high grade metal I think I'm going to paint one and try it out for mine. I'm starting a scratch build proton pack tomorrow but I'll probably piece out most of the pack because I want it as replica as possible. Anyway sick pack man nice work I bet it feels awesome to have a proton pack !
#4893717
Jurassic Paul wrote:Looking great so far. I started to build my Nickatron pack too but have no motherboard. Could you possibly share the cad file of the Mobo you made? as that would be a great help as I have access to a laser cutter and can make my own :)

Paul
Absolutely. I made two version. One with speaker grills and one without.
I got this pic from my supplier on Friday afternoon and the mobo will be in my hands on Monday. Talk about itchy fingers.

Monday is when I can do the final fitting to make 100% sure everything fits. If so, I'll absolutely share both versions of the file, but I want to test fit first, so I don't release a file that doesn't fit properly =)

I'll also send this file to Nick so he can send it to his customers.
#4893721
GohstTarp wrote:Your wand and motherboard are looking great. Laser-cutting those speaker grilles was a very smart thing to do. Nice job.
Thank you! The wand I take no responsibility for. It is all CPU64's doing! =)

The motherboard I can take responsibility for. I had a friend with a Nick-a-tron kit who traced around his motherboard. I checked around my shell and it fit well (just in case), and then I cut that up and scanned the pieces and assembled them in my CAD program.. then printed it on paper in pieces, taped together, tested around the shell, changed a few measurements, rinse and repeat again until I came up with a nice, smooth shell that I then made the grille pattern on =)
#4893722
johnminterc wrote:They make a lawnmower fuel filter that is the same exact shape and size as the N-filter that goes on the top of the pack and the one that goes on the bottom of the cyclotron. I didn't know if one had a different name than the one on top of the pack but it's made of high grade metal I think I'm going to paint one and try it out for mine. I'm starting a scratch build proton pack tomorrow but I'll probably piece out most of the pack because I want it as replica as possible. Anyway sick pack man nice work I bet it feels awesome to have a proton pack !
Thank you. I have one that I traded my old Stormtrooper armor for, all made in mdf. It is good, but not the same thing as building one yourself. I prefer building, actually =) It will mean a lot more when it is finished. =)
#4893723
Jurassic Paul wrote:Awesome. My convention is on Friday but I'm leaving Thursday. I can laser cut it Monday before work, gonna be close ;)

Also I'm happier for the one without the speaker Grilles, as my sound is playing through a Bluetooth speaker on my belt :)

Paul
I PM:ed you with a link for the .stp file for the "light" version without the grille. It is not matched up with the shell for the final test since I won't receive it for another 28 hours, but since your time is right, I'm sending it to you anyway.

The rest of you will have to wait until Monday evening before I release the file for the Nick-a-tron shell :D
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