#4898984
It is setup to source and it is intentional. I've verified the current draw per led is half that available. I did it this way because I am using the resistor networks. Shouldn't be a problem at all but you can wire it however you like. I'm using 330 ohm networks. Earlier in the thread xoff00 made a PC board for his sinking setup so it's easier to wire.
Last edited by CountDeMonet on October 1st, 2017, 6:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
#4898987
CountDeMonet wrote:It is setup to source and it is intentional. I've verified the current draw per led is half that available. I did it this way because I am using the resistor networks. Shouldn't be a problem at all but you can wire it however you like. I'm using 330 ohm networks. Earlier in the thread xoff00 made a PC board for his setup so it's easier to wire.
Hm... if that's so, why is the black wire at the bottom of the bargraph going over to the POWER rail on the arduino breadboard?

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If the SX1509 is sourcing current, that means that it's supplying 5v to the relevant LED pin when it's told to. But if the resistor is also connected to the 5v line, then no current will flow as it's not a valid circuit.
#4898991
GK45 wrote: Oh, you give up too easily. :p

Remember WindDrake? He remodeled a few of your parts.
Well, one of them was the very part you need.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2509040/

It has the molded in Hatlight and Button removed and replaced with nice holes for mounting the real thing. It's the part I've been using all along.
Not sure about sticking a neopixel next to it because I'm unsure on the size.

Running the wires might be tricky, there are two options that I see.
You can drill a hole through the piece so that wires can pass through or you can run them along the bottom, maybe cut in a little channel so they sit inside the piece.
Then, if drilling a hole through it you can run them directly into the pipe.
If you run them down the bottom of the piece another option would be to run them under the grip and into the pipe somewhere underneath.
I think the 2nd option fits the aesthetics of the Thrower better but it would mean the wires could get damaged.
Nice! WindDrake has really added to the items remodelled. It's been a while since I took a look. The ship has sailed for my son's pack. I'm in the painting phase and just need to get it done. We have parties he's going to around the 20th so it needs to be done. Big rush is on now...
#4899025
CountDeMonet wrote: Nice! WindDrake has really added to the items remodelled. It's been a while since I took a look. The ship has sailed for my son's pack. I'm in the painting phase and just need to get it done. We have parties he's going to around the 20th so it needs to be done. Big rush is on now...
Yeah, they've been busy.

3 weeks is plenty of time.
You just need a few days to finish painting and a day to install the electronics, a week at most.
Slow down and enjoy it coming together.
#4899132
Some quick pics this morning of the progress. I started painting the pack today and I need to find a good metallic paint for the silver parts. The two silver options I bought for my pke meter wings I'm not a big fan of. Also adding in a shot of the back side of the pack as that shows how it's all put together.

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#4899176
Starting to look like a thing. It's really hard to not get drips due to all of the hard to reach places on the pack. I managed to only get two and both should be hidden once all the parts are on. Pretty pleased with how the paint came out. I found a chrome that's not to bad. You have to be really careful handling it as it picks up fingerprints easily. Very shiny though. I have a few more parts to paint the silver like the top knob but it's coming along.

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#4899302
Thanks! It's really a mad rush at this point. Trying not to make too big of a mistake. I have to have the painting done today as it's going to be raining here for the next week.

I've been working on the tube connectors and starting to spray them metallic colors. Also playing with the decals and trying to get them the right size for this pack. I only have 2 more connectors to make. The female hose connector on the ion arm and the female connector on the cyclotron. The only decal firmly placed is the one on the clippard valve. I'm not real happy with how that one came out so will be printing another one when I have some time. It'll do for now. It's mounted with screws so easy to change out. I'm trying to use screws for as much of the pieces as I can.

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#4899329
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Attaching everything with screws is a great idea, especially on a pack that might get banged around. Makes for easy replacements.
Most things can even be screwed in from the inside of the pack which means you can't even see it's screwed in.


If you don't want to mess with the stickers I found a set on ebay that are sized for the SH Pack. Not sure how well that would match your pack.
They aren't cut, unfortunately or fortunately I guess, if you have to trim them down to fit better.
http://stores.ebay.com/T-J-Independent- ... =214898757
#4899333
That's interesting. It looks like the same original source I'm using for the stickers. I don't think the spirit ones would work for me though. Some of my parts are a bit smaller than 83% so I'm having to adjust them a bit. I've got some nice printers so not a huge deal. Thanks for the link though I will probably get the metallic version for my spirit pack :)
#4899369
CountDeMonet wrote:That's interesting. It looks like the same original source I'm using for the stickers. I don't think the spirit ones would work for me though. Some of my parts are a bit smaller than 83% so I'm having to adjust them a bit. I've got some nice printers so not a huge deal. Thanks for the link though I will probably get the metallic version for my spirit pack :)
Yeah, they look pretty good. Not sure I would put a $25 sticker set on a SH Pack though.
#4899370
Processor board complete. Now to add connectors to the wand parts and test it out. My main focus for the first part of the week will be finishing up the wand. I need to add the decals and then cover it with a clear coat. I also decided to try a new clear part for the end so picked up a glitter tube at michaels that Grogking recommended. I think it will look better than the test tube I had and it's not tapered which will make it easier to get straight. I've already updated the end piece and the connector to support it. Printing those parts out now. Once this board is tested and the clear coat is on I can start installing everything in the wand. How exciting :)

but now I have to remember how to use the connector crimping tool lol. I should have written down the steps...

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#4899386
Well.... my board works but there is a problem with the audio board communication I'm not so sure how to handle. It appears that the soundboard does not like to have long connections to the arduino. The cat5 is creating enough resistance to render the communication useless. Plus just reading the act in the main Loop() is causing a significant delay. If I take the sound board out of the code everything function normally. I may have to move the arduino into the pack. This definitely changes how I was thinking about things and probably means a wasted day. I wonder if this is a generic issue with the digitalread. If it is it could cause me issues putting the arduino in the pack and having the switches in the wand.
#4899389
The issue is the serial communication with the sound board. If I use a 5 inch cable I am able to list the tracks using the example from adafruit. If I hook it up with the 5 foot cat5 cable I get garbage back when I try to list the tracks. I've tried 2 different nanos from different manufacturers to make sure there isn't an issue there.
Code: Select all
Found 4 Files
0	name: ⸮⸮⸮
s 00020	size: 0
1	name: 
Adafruit F	size: 0
2	name: 
FAT 00007F	size: 0
3	name: Files 00020	size: 0
I'm going to try a larger cable to see if it's just the cat 5 it doesn't like. I think I'm going to have to scrap this processor board tho and start over with the arduino in the pack. First thing I'm going to test is the latency on the switches...

Moving the arduino to the pack doesn't change the connection diagrams. It just changes how I do the boards which is always a fun challenge. Glad I didn't get boards made by oshpark.
#4899395
More troubleshooting tonight as I try to decide on a way to go with this. Hopefully someone finds this interesting anyway.

I narrowed the issue down to the TX/RX wires. If I leave the ACT and RST wires and just replace them with the same length 24 gauge stranded speaker wire I can talk to the FX board without issue. Seems something with the solid core 24 gauge wire in the cat5 I have is an issue with the communication. Only problem is the cat5 is already a tight fit and I'm not sure I can piggy back 2 more wires through the handle area. I think I'm going to build out the connector board that only has the 2 neopixel outputs, 3 switch inputs, and the button input. We'll see how that does and if it has any latency issues. Then I'll decide on the board layout I'll try next or if I'll keep the existing one and try to cram 2 more wires in the conduit.
#4899402
That's what I'm guessing. It must be reaking havoc with the serial connection. For stability sake I'm thinking it might be better to have the Arduino closer to the FX board. I'm going to build the io board and test that theory. Looks like I could use the current setup and replace those two wires tho if I have to. Options are always good :)
#4899407
I don't think there is enough difference if any in resistance between the solid core and similar gauge stranded to make a difference. I have used both interchangeably but tend to like stranded better for flexibility. I have however encountered some differences with twisted pair and individual single wires and at times have had to run shielded cable to block interference from other signal wires
#4899428
I'm going to have to find a new tether cable. Cat5 just won't cut it. There is no latency with the buttons but the neopixels are not liking the cable either. They work but are showing some odd tendencies and are nowhere near as bright as they should
be. Now to find something else to use for the tether cable. The good news is I think either board will work with a different cable so I have viable options.

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