#4898755
Following this build with much excitement, already have most of parts on hand or on order
I have couple of questions, since you mention led for nfilter for venting, can you include code for triggering a 5V relay to incorporate our Fincher Technologies ecig smoke kit to coincide with the overheat vent sound
Also is it possible to also add a pushbutton and LED to front ear to manually trigger vent
#4898756
I am LOVING this build; can't wait to see the final product. 3 questions, and please forgive me if these have already been asked!

-What do you think your final total cost will be, not counting the original cost of the 3D printer?
-What 3D printer do you have and do you recommend it?
-How much is the pack going to weigh? Are you adding weights?

Keep up the amazing work!

-TJ

Edit: Replaced a question after reading through the thread more closely!
#4898761
This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

jimfin wrote:Following this build with much excitement, already have most of parts on hand or on order
I have couple of questions, since you mention led for nfilter for venting, can you include code for triggering a 5V relay to incorporate our Fincher Technologies ecig smoke kit to coincide with the overheat vent sound
Also is it possible to also add a pushbutton and LED to front ear to manually trigger vent
It wouldn't be hard to add in the relay trigger. There is not much to triggering the relay.

http://www.circuitbasics.com/setting-up ... e-arduino/

The relays are quite cheap

https://www.amazon.com/DAOKI®-Arduino-I ... B00XT0OSUQ

Basically once the relay is connected to a pin you digitalwrite to it to open and then digitalwrite to close it when the venting is done. In my setup I have 1 pin left on the arduino nano so that pin could be be used to trigger the ecig.

On my sons pack I don't have enough room for the arduino mega but for a full pack build it would be a good option. With that you would have the extra pins to add the trigger lights and button for venting. Would not be hard at all. The current model for that part is not drilled out to support the light and button it but it would not be a ton of work to add that as a model option
1chapelcredit wrote:I am LOVING this build; can't wait to see the final product. 3 questions, and please forgive me if these have already been asked!

-What do you think your final total cost will be, not counting the original cost of the 3D printer?
-What 3D printer do you have and do you recommend it?
-How much is the pack going to weigh? Are you adding weights?

Keep up the amazing work!

-TJ

Edit: Replaced a question after reading through the thread more closely!
The electronics without the bargraph are around $80. You get a lot of extras with the parts list I've put up. When my spirit pack comes in I'll be building the lighting upgrade with the extras for instance. The bargraph adds about 15 bucks with shipping. The sx1509 is $5 on digikey and then add in the 2 bar graphs and the resistor networks. That puts the electronics around $100 for everything.

It's hard to say exactly how much filament I've used on the pack. I've printed a lot of extras and then redesigned pieces and printed them over and over again. My best guess is around 2 spools for my son's pack. I use the hatchbox filament at around $20 a spool.

Add in a few cans of filler primer/paint, some odds and ends for wire and stuff, and then the PVC/straps for the pack and I'm probably close to $200. Maybe $220 if I include the extra filament I spent on the prototypes and stuff.

I have 2 printers. The monoprice maker select v2.1 and the XYZ Davinci mini. The monoprice Maker select is nice printer and would be a great second printer. For a first printer I'd recommend the monoprice mini, while it has a small print bed, is probably a better first printer as it doesn't need as much upgrading. I do not recommend the Davinci mini. While it prints nice the filament is twice as expensive and there is 0 support from the company if something dies. Mine is 9 months old and it's near death. I'll replace it with the monoprice mini when it does kick it fully.

The pack is just under 6 pounds right now with the motherboard, pvc pack and straps. That is without the electronics or battery. It'll probably be closer to 7 after paint and everything is mounted. I'm trying to keep it as light as possible for my son. I won't be adding weight to this one.

I can't help it. Here's the pack after the first coat of filler primer. Next to sand and fill some of the larger cracks I see with bondo then the final hit with filler primer before painting.

Image
grogking liked this
#4898775
I'm starting to create the mounts for these led's. I'm close to putting all of this into the pack. I came up with this little mount for the individual neopixels and I've added it to the github repo. The idea is you glue the side of the tabs to where you mount it, slide the neopixel into the slot, and then add a dab of hot glue to secure it. This way you can easily remove the neopixel if you need to. It should also help with light bleed. Next up is the mount for the powercell

Image
#4898797
I have a question about lights and switches. I've been watching the clips from the movies and it's hard to tell what each light is supposed to do or represent. Shockingly, there are not a lot of good shots of the wand that I can find. Is there a consensus at all out there on what each switch "should" do and how each light should function based off what the switches do?

From the early slimer scene in GB1 it's clear the activate switch should trigger the short powerup sound and light the wand vent light. The slowblo looks to be always illuminated as well as the yellow light behind the clippard valve. It appears there is a top light that looks like it could be flashing but in some scenes it looks to be solid. I can't tell if there is a reason why.

I currently have the sloblo always illuminated when the pack is booted, the rear light by the clippard is always illuminated, the wand vent light is illuminated while the activate switch is on, and the top light is only illuminated when the pack is in a warning state. Any thoughts on that?

Tonight I soldered up the nfilter neopixels for the venting effect. I've currently got 2 neopixels for this but I may add another one or two. The venting led only comes on when in the booted phase and the vent effect is triggered from the warning state once the fire button is released. The code is working well right now.

I also finished the initial sanding of the filler primer and I filled the large cracks with bondo. Then sanded that down. Tomorrow I should be ready for the final spray of filler primer and sanding.
#4898805
I've been looking into this as well. The short answer is...it depends.
viewtopic.php?t=19085
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18358

I like the order
1 - "Intensify"
2 - "Activate"
3 - Top switch
4 - Bottom switch
5 - red push button
So I'll use that.

The only button that I think we can definitively say did what is 1, it fired the lights in the tip.
5 seems to not have been used for anything in the movie so we can use it for whatever we want...but within the lore of the movie I would say it is most likely the "Capture Stream".
In most scenes where the wand is used 3 seems to be already flipped up so it is suspected that that button turned on the pack lights, Cyclotron and Power Cell. I think I will be wiring the "Pack boot up" to that button so that I don't have to stick one on the pack itself.

Now, this is where we get tricky.
It seems in the Roof top Battle that the Bargraph and White Hatlight are already running and then 4 is used to activate the Grill and the movie plays the charging sound.
The same can be said for the Hallway Slimer scene, Ray flips 4 and the Grill lights up and the charging sound plays, however in this case there doesn't seem to be any other lights on this Pack's Thrower.
I do not believe the Clear Acro light is blinking in either of those scenes and I can not see the SlowBlo.
I can't see 2 in either of those but 3 is flipped in the Rooftop scene so the Bargraph and front Hatlight must be controlled on that pack either by 2 or 3.

Now, I, along with everyone else naturaly thinks 2 activates the Thrower and at least the grill light so there must be scenes where it does that, though off the top of my head I can't think of a specific scene in GB1.
Then we have the Courtroom scene and in this scene 2 definitely activates all the lights in the Thrower.

Now, you can take the Mattel Wand into this if you want as well.
In the Mattel Wand we have 4 activating the "Pack" and Slowblo, 3 activates the BarGraph, Acro Light on steady and White Hatlight then 2 tuns on the Grill, plays the charging sound and starts the Acro to blink.
Going by what we see in the movie they have it backwards as 4 almost certainly turns on the Pack and for some may turn on some of the Thrower lights, unless they were tied into 2.


So if you want to go with Mattels setup but rearranged to line up with the movie...it would be.
1 - Fires
2 - Activates Grill, sets Acro to blink and plays the Charging sound.
3 - Activates the Pack Lights, Slowblo and plays the Pack Startup.
4- Turns on the Bargraph, White Hatlight and steady Acro.

Then for movie we can go a few ways.
1 - Fires, always and only. Easy
2 - Activate the grill, play the Charging sound and optionally set the Acro to blink. Or Activate All lights and Charging Sound.
3 - Activate Pack lights and play Pack Startup Sound. Optionally turn on Slowblow, Hatlight and/or Bargraph.
4 - Do nothing, switch functions with 2. If Switching with 2 then 2 can turn on the Slowblow, Hatlight and/or Bargraph.


Personally, I like this setup.
1 - Fires
2 - Activate All Thrower lights and Plays Charging Sound, power down whine. Minus the Slowblo, maybe.
3 - Activate Pack lights and play Pack Startup Sound, Shutdown. Optionally turn on Slowblow, maybe.
4 - Play the Music
5 - Alternate Capture Stream Lights and Sound or Manual Venting.
Oh, wait, both!
5 - Manual Venting.
1+5 - Alternate Capture Stream
#4898809
Thanks for that write up. It certainly seems the movies are a bit inconsistent and interpretations of how the pack work are all over the place if you look at youtube. I like the setup you suggest. The only difference from what I have programmed now is that I turn on the sloblo and light near the clippard with #3. Which light is the Acro?

I can easily move the yellow light to the activate switch and that makes a lot of sense I think. The sloblo is a conundrum as well as that top light. Right now I only have the top hat light lighting when the pack is in a warning state. That may be what I go with for my son's pack as I'm guessing that light would be annoying to him if it's blinking or anything.

Of course there is also the hidden switch somewhere on the pack that Egon flips on Ray's pack in the elevator. I'll ignore that for this :)

I'd love to do the venting and capture stream but that will have to wait until I do a full size pack next year. I think I've probably made this pack more advanced than a 7 year old will ever be able to use lol.
#4898812
The clear light to the right of the Grill, above the Hatlight. The one that blinks.
I think the Slowblo going on with the pack works but for me personally, I like everything else on the Thrower tied to the Activation, alla the Courtroom.
As we've already covered I also don't like the constant blinking Acro, so we are in agreement to moving that into the overheat sequence, though I'll switch mine to flash red.


Decided to watch GB2 this morning so here are the lights during each scene, unfortunately there aren't any scenes on my version that are clear enough to see the switch positions.
Around 1:33 when Peter is putting the baby on the ground is probably the best point for someone with a blueray copy to grab a shot of the switches.

Breaking it down, there seem to be a few different setups.
The Courtroom, which turns everything on with 2.
The rest of the movie, has the Grill light tied into 2 with the rest of the Thrower and Pack lights seemingly tied into a single button as both seem to be on when the other is.
There also seems to be a 3rd and that is when Louis fires at the wall, he doesn't seem to have any lights aside from the barrel but his Orange Hatlight is definitely lit up when he presses the fire button.


In the Courtroom 2 turns on all Thrower Lights and Powers Up, we can't see the Pack but it is presumed that they also turned on the Cyclotron and Power Cell.

In the Museum, the Throwers are stored but the Bargraph, SlowBlo, Hat Light, Blinking Acro, Cyclotron and Power Cell are all on.
Can't see the switches clearly enough to tell which are on but I think 3 is on.

Outside the Museum, I can't tell but I think they hit 4 to turn on the Throwers. Kind of irrelevant though as I don't see any lights go on.

Breaking down the Museum finale we start with the hatlight and blinking Acro visible after repelling, can't see the rest but the grill is definitely not on.
After they slime you can see the Bargraph and SlowBlo are on and when Peter is putting Oscar on the ground we can see that the Cylcotron and Power Cell are going as well.
The grill is never lit during this scene.

Moving on to Luise shooting the slime, can't see a damn thing but his Orange Hatlight is certainly lit when he pushes the button to fire.

EDIT: I've been looking around for HD clips on YouTube and found the 1st Museum scene, looks like 2 is flipped on for Winston's Pack. https://i.imgur.com/R4x0R5o.png
It's possible they had everything hooked into 2 as the Grill light isn't used again in the movie as far as I can tell.
It's also possible that whatever they were using for the Grill just isn't bright enough to be seen and is also always on or that it broke and they couldn't get a replacement.
#4898831
Cool, Based off all of this I've made some changes to the code. I took a liberty with the top light and using it for the pre warning and warning flash. Otherwise it is off. I am not planning on having a light in mine in the top front spot. It'll only be that little hat light thing.

There are 3 options that can be set now for different effects. If you had some open pins it would not be difficult to put these on switches and toggle them that way. I don't so it's a compile time setting. I like the yellow flashing boot/vent for the cyclotron but the fade in is nice as well. I know I've seen that elsewhere so added it as an option.
Code: Select all
const bool useGameCyclotronEffect = true;   // fading previous cyclotron light in the idle sequence
const bool useCyclotronFadeInEffect = true;  //  boot/vent this fades the cyclotron in from off to red instead of yellow flash
const bool useDialogTracks = true;          // set to true if you want the dialog tracks to play after firing for 5 seconds
One thing I had to do, and I'm not sure why this is an issue, is reduce the number of dialog tracks by 2. If I increase it from 8 to 9 when it goes in to get the track the arduino hangs. I've rewritten the sorting code and checked everything over and I can't for the life of me figure out why.

I've added the vent leds for the nfilter. I'll have to wait until this is all in the pack to see how it looks. I'm sure I'll be tweaking timing and everything else once I see it in the pack. Luckily I think I'm really close to installing all of this.

grogking liked this
#4898836
Looking good. Why did you go with the staggered fade in with the Cyclotron?
Good idea with the Optionals, I never even thought of that honestly.

You keep talking about using the Top Hatlight, is that just personal preference?
It was never lit in the movies to my knowledge, the Blinking light is the clear one above the Hatlight.
As long as you are setting optionals, might be a good idea to have one for the movie version that blinks after you flip 2.
I won't use it, but I'm sure most people looking at this would.

As to tweaking the Vent light.
Set a tiny delay from the start of the "Venting Track" so that it comes on after the initial mechanical movement is heard and then end it in time with the following mechanical movement.
You know, like the sound is a cover on the vent opening and closing. Optionally set it to fade in and out in time with that sound.
In the game, that sound is the Nfilter flipping down and Cyclotron popping up but I don't think anyone has the time to replicate that...or even wants to.


I've been looking into the manual vent but I really think it is far beyond me.
My personal preference would be that the code follow as you have it set up until the button is released except that the blinking light only start with the alarm, preferably blinking at the same pace as the alarm.
Where I would change it is that instead of automatically going into the Vent Sequence after releasing the button I would have the Alarm and Flashing Light continue instead, then have the Venting attached to a button.
Should probably only loop a few times after releasing the button. I thought about at least having the LED loop infinitely until the Vent Button is pressed but there shouldn't be much delay between releasing the button and hitting the Vent and if there is then the illusion has probably been broken anyway and it might be nice to be able to just skip the venting in those situations.


On a personal note, it's always bugged me that the soundboards use the shutdown whine for the end of the stream.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHBmNE-G2E4
They only use the Shutdown Whine once to end the stream and that is the scene where Gozer vanishes.
You can hear the proper sound for ending the stream during these scenes in the Hotel.
Shooting the Maid Cart scene, Ray in the Hallway Slimer scene, just barely and Egon in the, "Nice Shootin, Tex" scene.
In GB2 they have a different sound, it's something a mix between the Whine and the GB1 finish, you can only hear it when they are outside the Museum shooting at the Slime Wall.

The rest of the time they just don't bother with a sound, probably because it would or did get lost in the other sounds.
#4898837
I think those sounds are coming from the video game. Not entirely sure. I'm all for more realistic sounds it's just finding the sound isolated is not too easy.

Here's what I'm talking about. We may have terminology confused

Image

I just realized that my powercell will only show 14 of the 16 led's in the window so I updated the code to support and offset index for the start of the powercell led's. Now I can have the middle 14 led's on the stick light for my powercell. I also fixed a bug in the powercell startup animation.

Good idea on the light. I'll have to see how hard it would be to add a delay there. If I had an extra button for the nose I would add that vent button there. For this pack I don't so that will need to be a feature I add when I do my full pack :) We'll just call the current code the "video game" mode where it vents automatically
#4898838
I can help you out with the sounds. I have a bunch, I think some are from the movie, some from the game, I just need to sort through the...something like 3 or 4 zips I have.
In the Videogame I think they used the GB2 style stream finish so I can at least give you that. There are also multiple vent effects with and without the mechanical sound that I can give you.
Not just the Pack sounds btw, I've got most of the effects from the Game, Ecto-1, Trap, PKE, Ghost sounds.
Give me about 10 minutes to find out where I've stuck them and sort through, then I'll send them your way.

Yeah, different terms indeed. That's the front not rear. :P
The "Rear yellow light", the orange cap on the tip of the gun and the Larger hole next to the vent, which I've been referring to as Grill to hopefully avoid confusion with the Venting function are the Hat Lights.
http://www.gbfans.com/equipment/proton-pack/hat-lights/
The top light and Slowblo were Arcoelectric Lights/Indicators. I've been using Acro...because honestly I'm never going to remember Arcoelectric.
http://www.gbfans.com/wiki/Arcoelectric_Lights
#4898901
Today was spent sanding the pack as much as I possibly could. I found a few more spots that I needed to fill so I cleaned those up with Bondo. I then took a crack at gmy first weld lines. I have a stick of epoxy putty and I made a quick tool to make the weld lines. Unfortunately after a lot of practice I was not able to get what I was looking for. It's not so hard when you do it in a straight line but when you try to do the weld lines around curves and other things with the tool it was not possible. So I went to the next best thing. The good old hot glue gun came to the rescue again. It may not look exactly like I want but it will fill in the area and I won't have a problem with it. I've decided to keep the weld lines to a minimum for this pack as it's really small. It'll probably be limited to the n filter and the wand handle.

I'm pretty happy with how the electronics have come out. There is one thing I'm going to change after looking at things bit. I don't think that two of the neopixels will be enough for the n filter. I'm going to make a small array to attach to the inside base of the n filter that will hold at least four or five neopixel that can light up and make a nice bright light out of it. I also completed the mount for the power cell. As I said before it'll only be able to use 14 LEDs and not the full 16 I have available to me. But it still looks pretty good and the code is working very well. Being able to set the offsets and maximum size of the power cell LED chain was a good change.

I hope to be painting the pack black this weekend along with the wand. And then the exciting part. Installing the electronics. I may just finish this pack in time
grogking liked this
#4898919
Decided to go with 4 neopixels for the n-filter venting. Came up with this nifty little mount. It'll glue to the top of the n-filter on the inside.

Image

It wasn't too hard to wire up the neopixels. The pads are small so you have to take your time. I think it took about 20 minutes to undo the old 2 neopixel setup and wire this up

Image

And here it is in action. This is with the brightness set to 20%. It should be quite impressive once in the pack. You can also see the mount I made for the powercell lights. It holds the neopixel sticks really nicely.

Image
#4898930
I think some of you have been waiting for something like this. I decided to give fritzing a try as I was trying to draw it by hand and was not doing a good job of it. I need the diagram as I'm about to take this all apart and start soldering boards. Here is the high level fritzing diagram. I have not taken the time to clean up the schematic yet.

Image

This does not include the bargraph. When I get a chance I'll do that one.
grogking, Styrofoam_Guy liked this
#4898944
As I've been pondering some of the questions and looking over the design above I could save one more pin by connection the wand lights to the nose strobe and then there would be 2 pins left over. One pin could be used at the nose of the wand to trigger the vent effect and the last pin could be used to trigger the relay for the ecig if anyone wanted to do that. Then just a little code to put the pack into a disabled state after the warning trigger requiring the use of the nose vent button to clear it.

I'll also put together the fritzing for the spirit pack electronics I'll do (if mine ever comes in) as well as the bar graph. Add on.

On a high note I finished sanding the pack last night with the 400 grit and it looks good. I think I'll start the painting today :)
grogking liked this
#4898956
I've updated the code some. cleaned up the main loop a bit. There were some unnecessary if statements so consolidated them. Also removed the dialog randomizer. For some reason the arduino is unstable doing that and I can't figure out why. It wasn't ending up so random anyway so just took it out. Stability is more important.

I've added the circuit diagrams to github as well. I'll add the one with the bargraph soon. Here is what you could do for a really cheap pack light upgrade for the spirit halloween pack. If mine comes in this is what I will put in it as I have it all sitting here at the house already. The code has the original and the video game cyclotron light options. It only does the idle state.

https://github.com/CountDeMonet/Arduino ... itMinimial

Image
grogking liked this
#4898958
ok last one I promise. I'm on a role so wanted to get my thoughts down. Up until this point the diagrams match the code. Now we are getting into the hypothetical for 2 new features and I have not written this code. It would not be much work to do so but here is a diagram to prove it is possible.

This diagram moves the nose strobe neopixel jewel to the end of the wand light chain to free up 2 pins. It moved pin 4 from the neopixel to a new button that is used to vent the pack if in the warning or to do a capture stream or something when not in the warning phase. Pin 9, which was already open, is now used to control a 5v relay which can switch the ecig on/off for the venting effect.

At this point we would be completely out of pins on the arduino but I believe it covers most of the features people would want. Next year when I do the full pack I'll play with the relay and ecig stuff . No room in my sons pack for that.

Note: in all of these diagrams with the lipo imagine it is an 11.1v 3 cell lipo. I couldn't find that in the fritzing library. Only the single cell version.

Image
Last edited by CountDeMonet on October 1st, 2017, 7:39 am, edited 1 time in total.
grogking liked this
#4898959
1chapelcredit wrote:Thanks for the 3D printer advice! Could the neutrino wand be built with the monoprice mini? I'm leaning toward that one on your recommendation!
I just went thru the files and I think the main gun box would be an issue as well on the mini. The length is 5.13 inches and the mini has a max size of 4.7" square. You could print a 90% scale version of it on the mini. Splitting that model would not be a great idea though to print full size.
#4898961
CountDeMonet wrote:
1chapelcredit wrote:Thanks for the 3D printer advice! Could the neutrino wand be built with the monoprice mini? I'm leaning toward that one on your recommendation!
I just went thru the files and I think the main gun box would be an issue as well on the mini. The length is 5.13 inches and the mini has a max size of 4.7" square. You could print a 90% scale version of it on the mini. Splitting that model would not be a great idea though to print full size.
Thanks so much! I can't remember if you specified, but since this is for your 7 year old is this model scaled down from the original?
#4898971
Sorry to hear the quotes weren't working out for you.
I think I came across some stuff while "trying" to understand the Arduino that stated it simply didn't like doing too many things at once, especially randomized things.
Gets confused or something. *shrug*

Good to see you are throwing in the Nose Button. I like when other people like my ideas. :p
A thought towards functionality while you work on it.

During the overheat sequence it can be locked to the venting.
During the stream effect, so while 1 is held down, it can be locked to do a capture stream.
You could also have it cycle to the next song while your song switch is thrown, though might need a larger soundboard for multiple songs.
Then, when not in either it can be qued to another function. I can think of a few, would be personal to each builder I'm sure.

First thing that comes to mind for me is just a manual vent, especially if you have an ecig setup.
There's always the obvious, Mode Switch. In this case, Game sounds, Slimer sounds or a "Music Mode".

Now, for you though.
Why not give a shot at sticking the Randomized Movie Quotes to it? It might work better as it's own function.
You already have the code so it shouldn't be too hard. Worth a shot at least.
#4898972
I won't be able to get to the nose button this go around but will take a stab at it next year when I build my pack. I'll need to redo some parts to get that button to fit. Probably want to stick another neopixel next to it while I'm at it as well. For my son's pack I'll be sticking to the current design I posted in the first diagram. I really wanna play with the ecig stuff next year tho. :)
#4898974
Late, on a saturday night, here I was reflecting on all the work I've done for the last 6 months on this project. Until tonight my son had not seen the original Ghostbusters movie. He saw the new one about 7 months ago and loved it and that is what started this whole thing. I didn't like the design of the new movie proton packs so when he locked in his halloween costume selection for GB I crossed my fingers and hoped he would like the original movie as I was doing an original pack. Thankfully he absolutely loved the movie tonight (who wouldn't) and watching his face as he was hearing the sound clips I've added and the PKE meter. It was something else. I know I'm doing something for him he will never forget and he will always have to remember me by.
Last edited by CountDeMonet on October 1st, 2017, 5:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
#4898981
CountDeMonet wrote:I won't be able to get to the nose button this go around but will take a stab at it next year when I build my pack. I'll need to redo some parts to get that button to fit. Probably want to stick another neopixel next to it while I'm at it as well. For my son's pack I'll be sticking to the current design I posted in the first diagram. I really wanna play with the ecig stuff next year tho. :)
Oh, you give up too easily. :p

Remember WindDrake? He remodeled a few of your parts.
Well, one of them was the very part you need.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2509040/

It has the molded in Hatlight and Button removed and replaced with nice holes for mounting the real thing. It's the part I've been using all along.
Not sure about sticking a neopixel next to it because I'm unsure on the size.

Running the wires might be tricky, there are two options that I see.
You can drill a hole through the piece so that wires can pass through or you can run them along the bottom, maybe cut in a little channel so they sit inside the piece.
Then, if drilling a hole through it you can run them directly into the pipe.
If you run them down the bottom of the piece another option would be to run them under the grip and into the pipe somewhere underneath.
I think the 2nd option fits the aesthetics of the Thrower better but it would mean the wires could get damaged.
Last edited by GK45 on October 1st, 2017, 1:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
#4898982
CountDeMonet wrote:And here is the full pack with bargraph.

Image
According to that image you've got the SX1509 I/O expander SOURCING current instead of SINKING it. This isn't that great, as like I mentioned before, the limit for sourcing (i.e. driving an LED) is much lower per pin than for sinking (behaving as a ground). Basically it's much easier to overtax and burn out the I/O expander in the current configuration than it would be in the inverse configuration.

That said, it shouldn't be too hard to change. Make the ground wire going to the resistors the power wire instead, make the wires going from the bargraph to the I/O expanders the grounds, and invert the logic (so whatever is currently set to switch high, change it to low in the code, and vice-versa).

-edit-

Actually I mighta misread that. You've got a black wire going to the resistors and green wires going from the bargraphs to the expander, but said black wire appears to be connected to the power rail of the breadboard the arduino is sitting on.

So... I think maybe you've already got it set to sink current and I'm just a dumbass? :P
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I'd really like to see the new t-shirt unlocks t[…]

Hey and welcome

My Little Pony/Ghostbusters crossover done by my d[…]

Great work identifying the RS Temperature Control […]