#4899890
Hey guys, do you think it is possible to swap out the wand tip on the spirit pack with a clear acrylic tube but still keep the original ring and banjo tip on the gun that came stock? I know there is a light in the tip but I also realize they made the entire tip white. The bigger part of the tip that comes from the gun is supposed to be silver. The other part is supposed to be clear. I'm thinking if it is possible I will open the gun one more time and cut the part of the tip that is supposed to be clear completely off, then paint the remainder of the tip silver, then bore it out a tad if it needs it, then insert an acrylic tube and fit it to still slide through the ring that holds the banjo tip, that way its more accurate, better looking, Etc. but that's only if I can find one that will allow me to reuse the ring and banjo tip that is already there. (I can't wait to get my 3d printer, lol, but until then I have to fabricate the best that I can).
Last edited by GBDRE760 on October 19th, 2017, 2:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
#4899893
Kingpin wrote:I think it should be possible, utilising a full thrower deconstruction and the sawing/cutting that you mentioned.
Now I have to figure out who has the acrylic tubes near me. Unfortunately we don't have the type of hobby stores that carry EVERYTHING. I still wish one of them sold styrene so that I can do some scratch building.
The closest places around are: Michael's, Hobby Lobby, Lowes, Wal-Mart, and Home Depot.
#4899916
It's a quarter inch water hose picked up at any hardware store... It's flexible and can be cut with any thing...

At the connecting end; I had to separate the frosted Spirit tip into two parts and the glue the tubs to the light bulb tip... Then the outter ring on top of the tube and light bulb housing...

After that the other ring at the end was cored out because of glue and frosted spirit tubing residue...

But in the end it looks and the light flashing results are fantastic!!!

Good luck...
#4900074
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I hope this helps, When I got my pack I felt the wand was super lightweight and I hated how the tip looked and I wanted to do a few mods to it so I worked out a way to change the tip and add a functional switch rather than the push button on the top. As for the tip I opened the wand up got some 5/8ths OUTER diameter PVC and cut it to fit the length of the inside of the grip and used a connector that has the same 5/8ths outer diameter on the other side. I then ordered some 5/8ths outer acrylic tube from a shop on ebay (12inches for $6 us) The pic below is how it was set up before I got the acrylic so pardon the placeholder PVC and copper cap. Also with the original cap you can get the plastic ring off with a little bit of force and it too is 5/8th outer diameter and will slide right over the acrylic

https://imgur.com/a/HtdUd <---work in

By doing this you make your wand way more rigid and adds some much needed weight, I also just 3d printed the Bracket,spacer and V-hook for the wand that I saw on another topic here and that will give it some much needed size.

Here is where I got the acrylic https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-PC-5-8-DIAME ... 2749.l2649
#4900143
Im installing the acrylic and the wand is in parts at the moment, Ive got it wired up to a toggle switch I got at home depot. The original tiny button has 2 leads on the other side covered in hot glue, I removed the glue and soldered the toggle switch to the button and I placed the switch where it would of/should of been. one flick of the switch and the pack lights up (I removed the speaker and re-soldered the power cell battery wire to the main power lead and it makes the blue LED stay on rather than flash)
#4900148
Mine dose the same thing. I have a 2 stage switch (on and off) and no matter how I wired it it would switch on in the "ON" position and I have to flick it down and back to turn it of(however i can put it back to the off position after its off and it wont turn back on untill flipped again) These packs are super neat for the price but its cheaply made both physically and electrical. This just may be an issue with these packs unless you wanna run a lead wire from the battery box to the switch. The electrics are not done well in my opinion but in all honesty its a $65 pack and you cant ask for too much for that price when $300+ is a starting price for some kits
#4900154
The problem you are having is very simple.
The button for the Pack electronics is a Momentary switch, meaning that you push it down, it makes contact and then when you release the button it breaks contact.
The toggle switch is a Latching switch, meaning when you push it down or in this case flip it "on", it makes contact and the switch locks, now when you release the button it stays in the on position maintaining contact, when you press the button again or in this case, flip it to the off position it releases and breaks contact.

The Pack electronics are designed to Activate and Deactivate when the switch makes contact.
The Toggle Switch makes contact in the On position and breaks Contact in the Off Position.
As a result, the pack reads switching to the Off position as you just letting go of the button and that it should continue to play the effect until it concludes or until you "Press the button again".


There is a way around this... I believe.
The switch you have would be a SPST "Single Pole Single Throw" To be honest I'm not into electronics enough to properly explain but it means it has 1 On Position and 1 Off Position.
A SPDT "Single Pole Dual Throw" Switch has 2 Separate "on" connections. A SPDT can come in 2 position or 3, On/On or On/Off/On.
Wiring both "on" Positions to the Pack electronics would allow you to activate and deactivate the effect by flipping in either direction.
This would allow the switch to "connect" in either position but I am unsure if using a 2 position SPDT would cause damage to the electronics due to always being "on".

There are also DP "Dual Pole" versions but I don't believe they are relevant to this and I'm honestly not entirely sure how they work.
#4901800
I ordered 5/8 OD acrylic tube from CA in a 6' length and had it cut into 6" lengths. I got a 3/4"female to 1/2" male pvc elbow and cut off the 1/2" male elbow and its the perfect size to replace the outer ring over the Acrylic tube. I did have to take a file and make the inner tube of the 3/4" pvc a bit bigger but it is pretty exact. The hardest part was drilling the 2 holes in the acrylic tube, the bigger hole I know is a 5/16ths bit off the top of my head, but the smaller one I don't remember. I did the smaller diameter 1st straight through both sides of the tube very slowly with a milwaulkee 18volt. Then I had to slowly increase the size of the bit to get the big hole to 5/16ths because I learned the hard way that the acrylic tube does not easily accept cutting and pressure from larger drill bits. If I had to do it again I might just use a counter sink bit on the bigger diameter hole and slowly make it bigger until it fit. Took three tries due to breakage and the two holes not lining up properly creating a crooked wand tip.

I have yet to remove the banjo ring from the spirit wand, but when I do it will probably need to be enlarged with a file slightly as well.
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