[GBDRE760]

Hey guys, I am wrapping up a proton gun build and I got the wand light kit from the shop. I am just curious because everything is pretty much put together and painted....... How should I go about routing the wiring from the right trigger ear that has the red button and the orange hat light? I kinda thought about angling a drill bit in that ear and drilling a hole big enough to pass the wires through into the barrel and back into the box. I would like to be able to rout them in a way that does not require me to cut the wires and put them back together. I also know the silver tip that the acrylic tube sits in still needs to be able to slide in right there slightly about be epoxied in place. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Ecto39]

I’m in the same boat using a throwing chickens resin thrower. I am also building my own extension mechanism.

Are you wanting to be screen accurate? If so, the wires were not ran through the ear but instead out the bottom of the switch then down the tube under the grip.

Since my kit is all resin and the front grip is completely cast as a single piece I may try to drill down the grip then fill the holes. I’ll likely have to cut the wire so the holes are not so big.

[GBDRE760]

I’m in the same boat using a throwing chickens resin thrower. I am also building my own extension mechanism.

Are you wanting to be screen accurate? If so, the wires were not ran through the ear but instead out the bottom of the switch then down the tube under the grip.

Since my kit is all resin and the front grip is completely cast as a single piece I may try to drill down the grip then fill the holes. I’ll likely have to cut the wire so the holes are not so big.

I was kinda thinking I may have to cut in order to drill a SMALL hole from the inside of the ear and into the tube, then rout the wires down the tube back into the box and put them back together so that they can go into the light kit's board. I hate thinking that that's what I may have to do. The connector for the light kit is a little big to be drilling a hole that large into the ear. It can work but I am worried if it will affect how well the ear holds on to the barrel. It shouldn't be too bad of an issue I guess because the epoxy is a strong one made for plastics so if I'm lucky it should hold. I went the 3D printer rout on this one but I have heard a few days ago that some people have had some problems with epoxy and 3D prints. That could be just total garbage though considering the fact that Smooth-On (the company that makes dragon skin silicone rubber and a lot of great stuff for creating molds and casting stuff from resin) just released a epoxy-based product to brush onto 3D prints and smooth them out.

[CountDeMonet]

What glue you use depends a lot on the material you prrint witb. With pla I use 5 minute epoxy and gorrilla glue. Bondo glazing putty to fill large holes and Rust-Oleum auto filler primer work great for finishing. Just don't let the filler primer cure in the sun or parts will warping.

For abs prints I've read that creating an acitone slury and fusing parts is the best way to go.

Petg is different still. Weld-on #4 is recommend but epoxy and resin can work. I'm about to try some petg so will get some first hand experience with that.

[GBDRE760]

What glue you use depends a lot on the material you prrint witb. With pla I use 5 minute epoxy and gorrilla glue. Bondo glazing putty to fill large holes and Rust-Oleum auto filler primer work great for finishing. Just don't let the filler primer cure in the sun or parts will warping.

For abs prints I've read that creating an acitone slury and fusing parts is the best way to go.

Petg is different still. Weld-on #4 is recommend but epoxy and resin can work. I'm about to try some petg so will get some first hand experience with that.

Thanks. I printed them with PETG hoping it will make the parts more durable