User avatar
By | alkaline |
#215150
Hey Everyone,

Since completing my Proton Pack I figured its now time to make a trap. I will be meeting Dan Aykroyd on March 19th so I decided what better time. Right now there will be no working doors and lights but eventually there will be. This time around there will be less pictures as Im sure no one really need to see what gluing a part to another looks like. So here's the build:

Here are my materials for this build. The entire trap will be made out of 1/4" polycarbonate ( strong stuff) with the exception of the handle which will be aluminum. I ordered a crap load from MMM and some awesome parts from the gbfans.com store ( plug plug). This pic was taken with camera phone, apologies
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This is the main body and trap cartridge, say hello
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The trap pedal base plate with hammond boxes attached and painted. I found some really nice rubber feet at radio shack that will help the pedal from sliding around.
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More pedal shots with parts mocked up. I bought an 11 pin socket form the gbfans.com store (plug plug) but purchased an 8 pin relay ( whoops). No big deal. I trimmed all the leads on the relay but the first 2 and epoxied it to the socket. Crisis averted, problem solved.
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To attach the wheel bearings I cut some blocks, trapped the hole for bolts, then epoxied and socket screwed them into place. Also, its hard to see but I used a forstner bit and cut grooves on the bottom of the trap body to give the bearings clearance to roll properly.
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The I made what I like to call the trap bumper. It protects the wheels and also conceals them. Its socket screwed into place.
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Here are a few shots of the parts together so far.
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Test fit and mock up the doors and front display.
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Esplodeded
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Front display lights ready to be installed before gluing the front display into place. Makes things easier.
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My trap bellows bought on mcmastercarr.
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Still need to figure this one out, if anyone has an solutions, let me know. Seems the bolts from the vector plate hit the hinge and cause it to stop. OHHH NOS !
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Thats all for now. This build is gonna go really quick. If you don't stop to look around for awhile, you may miss it :)
Last edited by | alkaline | on March 12th, 2010, 2:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By DerGrundel
Supporting Member
#215334
As for the bolts interfering with the pedal's closure, I cut them off once they were past the hinge and descretely epoxied the dickens out of them to keep them in place. No bolt getting in the way of the hinge's movement, no need for the nut
User avatar
By | alkaline |
#215335
As for the bolts interfering with the pedal's closure, I cut them off once they were past the hinge and descretely epoxied the dickens out of them to keep them in place. No bolt getting in the way of the hinge's movement, no need for the nut
Yea that's what I did. Plus i found some screws that countersink lower into the part of the hinge that attaches to the pedal base. So with the bellows attached, the pedal works fine now. Thanks !
User avatar
By | alkaline |
#215396
ooOOOooo FARGE. Whelp, first flub of the build. Since I made the wheels low profile, attaching the belt clip to the bottom of the trap would now jack up the trap so the wheels don't touch the ground ( good job). Solution, Hunk out 1/4" from the underside. What I plan on doing now is creating a spring mechanism. So when the trap is off the belt the clip is retracted into the under side. When I want to put the trap on my belt I simply pull the clip out of its recess and clip to the belt. Extra work, not screen accurate by hey it works.
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More to come...
User avatar
By FeinDTacticS
#215500
I had the exact opposite problem... the vhook was not out far enough to catch the holster hehe...

its always something


btw : good work around
User avatar
By | alkaline |
#215916
Not a big update ( casue it took me 3 hrs to make Argh) But here's my trap arm. Much in the same sense I believe that MMMs mother board is the most important part of your pack build ( its the only thing keeping your $400.00+ pack attached to your your back and not on the floor) The trap handle is the most important part of the trap build. Its what people grab first and its what you move it around by. It should be sturdy.

With t hat being said I picked up some 1045 3/4"SQ steel bar and some water hardened 11/16" steel rod. I used a metal self lowering bandsaw and cut all the pieces to length. Then I drill all the holes I needed taped. Next, holes for countersunk socket heads. Lastly, I started with a 1/4" bit and worked my way up to an 11/16" hole for the bar. I took the piece back to the band saw and cut a half moon. When everything was cut I taped the hole in the top of the handle for a hex bolt and I was done. here's the results.
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Now if I could just degrease the damn thing so paint sticks. P.S. NO, I will not make you one. Doing this once was a big enough pain in the ass and a time consumer that I won't do it again....cheaply
User avatar
By mburkit
#215921
P.S. NO, I will not make you one. Doing this once was a big enough pain in the ass and a time consumer that I won't do it again....cheaply
I'll take 3! I'll send you my address via singing telegram.

. . . .


Looks good Alkaline, this trap is going to be a beast!
User avatar
By | alkaline |
#216712
Looking good, good solution to the clip problem. I need to find time to build another trap-mine is out on loan to the group--somewhere. Where are you meeting Dan?
He'll be in NJ this coming Friday. i was already heading home so it was perfect timing..
User avatar
By | alkaline |
#216972
great, can't wait to see pics of you with Dan : )

Im nervous, its like meeting Jesus in a way....
User avatar
By | alkaline |
#217261
OK, Lots done yesterday. Still not finished, but the light at the end of the tunnel is getting closer.

I began running wires through holes in the base plate to the project boxes which will eventually be for a light and pedal switch ( to open doors). Also you can see a rather unorthodox method off attaching the ribbon cable. I fed it directly into the DIN hood rather than gluing a pin header to it. Looks better IMO.
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Green+Red is for LED and Yellow+Red for pedal switch ( more on that later)
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Here's my bellows. I had a a friend weld a bolt through a washer. The washer is the diameter of the tubing. Then I slipped the bellows over the washer and JB welded the top of the bolt head to the bottom of the vector plate.
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Once the JB weld dried i took another welded washer and wrapped the bottom of the bellows around it, passed it through the hole on the base plate, and secured it on the bottom by another washer and nut
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Hard to see but here's the result. Now on how my pedal switch will work. One wire will be soldered to the top washer and bolt inside the bellow and the other wire will be soldered to the bottom washer and bolt. When you step on the pedal, the top bolt will hit ti bottom bolt completing the circuit and registering a "pedal press". So my bellow becomes a functional button.
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Trap cartridge coming together.
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OK, now for fixing my mounting bracket flub.I cut, and threaded some brass rods. Then added a few springs, washers, and nuts. *** Fun Fact about this image*** I had to name it "FluffyBunny.jpg" so goddamn sonicwall would stop blocking it. Nothing like good old brass rod porn huh?
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Below is a picture of the bracket in the "IN" position or off the belt. Still need to trim the rods a bit.
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Here is how you attach it to the belt. Pull the clip to the "OUT" position, the springs engage and let the clip pull out. Once the trap is taken off the belt, the clip retracts by the decompression of the springs.
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Everything starting to come up milhouse....
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Here is a template I created to help me drill the holes and attach the plates. I spray mounted the paper to the plates. Once the hole were drilled I used lacquer thinner to remove the paper and glue.
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Attaching the plates.
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For the doors I found some awesome reflective tape at Do It Best ( Ace Hardware) that was perfect. PS you can also see my dirty ass miners hand.
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Result after attaching to the doors. I also hit it with some satin clear coat to help dull the reflectivity of the tape ( is that a word?)
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Thats it for now. I should be done tonight (rather I have to be). I will eventually weather the trap but prob wont be able to before I meet Dan on friday ( no sense rushing).

*** ALSO IF ANYONE CAN TELL ME HOW TO ATTACH THE BUTTON ON MMM'S TRAP HOLSTER STRAP WITHOUT A SPECIAL TOOL, ID APPRECIATE IT***
User avatar
By irricanian
#217265
If you're talking about attaching the loose end of the holster strap you can get the "kit" to install the strap at Walmart for $4 in the sewing section. It comes with the punch and the cup for setting the domed snap.

http://www.multimediamayhem.net/rivettutorials.htm

or you can just pop rivet it onto the bracket? or bolt it.

Trap looks great, I like the reflective tape for the stripes!
User avatar
By | alkaline |
#217270
If you're talking about attaching the loose end of the holster strap you can get the "kit" to install the strap at Walmart for $4 in the sewing section. It comes with the punch and the cup for setting the domed snap.

http://www.multimediamayhem.net/rivettutorials.htm

or you can just pop rivet it onto the bracket? or bolt it.

Trap looks great, I like the reflective tape for the stripes!
Thanks Irri. I meant to PM you about it but I was making this post and figured Id throw it in. Capped and bold the text so people would see it :D.
User avatar
By | alkaline |
#217276
Nice work man! I love the trap pedal, but the sub-D housing is on the wrong way. Is this intentional? I recall that the round hole should face backwards..

Yep, I wanted to feed the ribbon cable right into it to give it that sort of OBD-II look. Like if you need to run diagnostics on the trap, You would plug a computer into the D-Sub which then routes the signal to the relay box. Cant tell but I added a female 15 pin Dsub connector to the hood as well.
User avatar
By | alkaline |
#217481
Well aside form some knobs, weathering, and lights, Im pretty much done.

Today I began by making the top metal part on the back of the trap. I made a template ( I like templates, can you tell?) and spray mounted it to a piece of light gauge steel. Cut it out and here's what I got.
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Here's the part attached to the rear of the trap.
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I was pretty much done with fabrication. All I had left to do was attach parts here and there. The next few photos are of me putting it all together.
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GHOST GOES INTO THE TRAP.....
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Here's a shot of me mounting it to the MMM trap holster.
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Thats it for now. Pretty much done for Dan Aykroyd day so Im happy. I need to order up some parts from nick and this thing will pretty much be done. Stay tuned for final pics.
alphabeta001 liked this
User avatar
By BSjohnson
#217560
That's a beautiful trap you've got there, John! Ace job!
By chibigear
#217569
Yep, I wanted to feed the ribbon cable right into it to give it that sort of OBD-II look. Like if you need to run diagnostics on the trap, You would plug a computer into the D-Sub which then routes the signal to the relay box. Cant tell but I added a female 15 pin Dsub connector to the hood as well.
I love this idea! Although I'm going for the movie accuracy as much as possible, these ideas are just too great! And I LOVE the trap doors, so so shiny..
User avatar
By | alkaline |
#218915
well that's pretty much perfect! Sure Dan will love it :)

It should turn out pretty nice once those sweet knobs get here :)

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