By RedVirtue
#360802
Hi guys. My Matty Traps came in the mail while I was on vacation. When I got home I wanted to figure out how to get it on my belt quickly and cost effectively without compromising the aesthetic of the trap.

I could have gone with one of those cool modified holsters members are selling but I didn't want to spend the money. I also didn't want to put a V-Hook in front of the Battery Pack. A. Because I don't want to block my access to the battery pack and B. Because I don't want to deal with tampering with the power source.

I decided to go with a discrete D-Ring. But in order to apply a D-Ring I had to open up the base of the trap to ensure I wouldn't be drilling into electronics beneath the shell.


I removed the six screws holding the base to the rest of the trap.
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The arrow indicates where I want to apply the D-Ring. You don't need to remove the screw on the battery door (unless you want to remove batteries that may already be inside).

Upon removing the base you'll find some good clean space to play with.
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Again, the green area is where I plan on drilling.
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You don't want to drill where the mini-jack sits (marked red). You may interfere with the structure that holds it in place. While the base is open you can easily slide the mini-jack in and out while drilling.

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Looking into the trap (no pun intended) you can see wires below. The screws you use can be about a half inch in length without worry of them reaching the wires. They can be a little longer then that (if that's all you have) and still not harm the wires. They will just be touching the wires at that point when you close the trap. If you start to get closer to a full inch into the trap you could risk pinching the wires though. That's a no no!

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You could easily go with a D-Ring that only requires one screw but then you risk it starting to slide around and get loose. I went with one that requires two screws so it sits securely. I bought a set of two at the Home Depot for $3.99. It comes with other junk too but all I needed were the D-Rings. I shaved it down with a dremel to get it to fit just right.

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Because the space is tight I had to face one screw in and one screw out in order to fit the nut on the second screw. The inner wall next to the second screw prevents space for the nut. As you can see there is still lots of space between the floor and the D-Ring. So it still rolls on the ground with ease. The Ring is stiff also so it doesn't rub on the floor when it's at rest.

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Tada! You're all finished. Go ahead and clip it to your belt!

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It rests nicely against your leg. and it actually sits in place pretty well for hanging on a Fob. It stay facing out pretty nicely. I was worried about it flailing around when I walked but that isn't the case.
Because it hangs a little below the belt (and not directly on the belt) you can actually sit down wearing the Trap comfortably. I know that when I'm in my gear I don't like having to go through the motions of removing every single gadget on my belt just to be comfortable when I sit. Wearing the Trap on a Key Fob saves me the hassle of having to remove one item from my belt just to have a seat.
Also because the Trap hangs below the belt you feel like you have a little more space directly on your belt of other things.

If you plan on doing this yourself, enjoy! If not I hope you enjoyed checking this out anyway!
Last edited by RedVirtue on December 19th, 2011, 8:33 pm, edited 2 times in total.
travisccook, EctoRalph liked this
By RedVirtue
#360829
xtrmn8r17 wrote:Interesting! does it feel heavy swinging from ur belt?
Not at all, dude! Odd thing is that the Trap feels heavier in your hand then on the belt. I don't feel its weight on the belt at all.

edit: Once I get a leather strap for the pedal I'm confident the trap will move around even less with the hose attached to it.
#360896
I've decided to modify my Matty ghost traps. I however don't have any Trap parts on hand so I'll have to wait till the parts come in from the gbfans shop I ordered today to really get the ball rollin'. But for now, we'll take baby steps. :cool:

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I removed the screws from the bottom of the pedal. There wasn't much too look at.

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Good news is that the plastic "ribbon cable" slides right out! I was actually worried about this being more difficult going in because I read someone saying they wanted to change the ribbon cable but would have to damage the plastic around it to remove it. That wasn't the case at all!

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If you happen to be a minimalist and just want to upgrade the ribbon. You can just feed it into the two slots.

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Now let's look into modifying this elbow (or banjo).

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When I removed the screws on the pedal I learned the elbow is what one of the screws holds onto to keep the pedal together. So I'm not going to throw this out. I drilled a screw into the top to get a sense of what it would look like. Looks like crap. :-P So I got to sand down that gold hump the screw is sitting on. I gave the tip of the elbow a lick of paint too.

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I dremeled away at the hump.

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Then I sanded and painted the elbow before adding the screw again.

That's it for now! I plan on switching out the D-Sub and Relay too. So we'll see how that goes once I get the parts in. :-D


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You know what would be pretty cool? If someone in our community made some metal rods that fit the Matty trap. Just sayin'. :wink:
#362313
Here's a picture of the upgraded Relay.

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When you put in the Relay there will be additional space left over from the Matty Relay. Fill it with a cylindar shaped spacer. PVC pipe works fine.

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Here is a pic of the new ribbon cable and D-Sub Connector.

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Here they are side by side so far.

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gold333 liked this
#363846
Awesome refit progress RedVirtue!
i ordered my trap from Matty over the Thanksgiving weekend and after the new year I plan to follow suit and mod mine too

Keep 'em coming
#364634
simply awesome. I knew some great modifications would come from you guys once the excitement of the trap release was over.. and i was dead right


great job
#366422
Lewis Tully wrote:Looks great! You should really change the title to: "How to Awesome-ize Your Matty Trap." :D
Done. :-D

Any of you want to really change your matty trap into a GB1 trap? Lets get to work!

First I wanted to remove the GB2 side-knob.

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GhostbusterPM had the cool idea to dremel the top of the knob to release the the knob from the trap. it actually worked. The Knob is hollow and there is a rod that is attached to the inside of the top of the knob... lol Hope that's understandable. Here is an illustration.

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Shave away at the top and you'll eventually reach the rod holding the knob to the trap.

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Once you dremel the top of the knob you'll reveal the rod it's attached to. The rod is also sticking out of a lip at the base. I shaved the rod into a flat "reed" shape. I'll explain why soon.

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Here's a couple GB1 side-knobs. I'm going to use the one on the left. As you can see I shaved down the lip on the knob to compensate for the already existing lip on the matty trap.

Shaving the rod into a reed shape allows the rod to fit into the knob.
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I also painter the lip on the trap black.

BAM! Epoxy that sucka and you're good to go!
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The rod can be pushed into the trap so be careful if you're doing this. It wont push back far enough to fall into the trap but if the rod is pushed in enough when you epoxy the knob it will no longer have that "matty snapping sound" when you turn it. It will also lose that friction and feel loose.

Making sure you don't push in the rod when you apply the knob will preserve how the knob was meant to operate!
User avatar
By Kingpin
#367746
CPU64 wrote:Very nice, Only thing I'd change is using more "correct" screws for the d-ring.
And actually remove the trap battery light cover from the pedal, as the real pedal had what appears to be a Arcolectric indicator, so in that regard the Matty replica was correct.
By RedVirtue
#367893
Kingpin wrote:
CPU64 wrote:Very nice, Only thing I'd change is using more "correct" screws for the d-ring.
And actually remove the trap battery light cover from the pedal, as the real pedal had what appears to be a Arcolectric indicator, so in that regard the Matty replica was correct.
Yeah total brain fart. The battery light cover was only sitting on the light for the picture. It wasn't attached thank goodness.
By RedVirtue
#372941
Applying the trap light cover:
If you just try to stick the accurate light cover over the matty lens it wont sit flush.

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So shave the matty lens giving it a rounded edge.

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It now sits flush boys & girls. Glue it and call it a day.

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By Massacci
#373743
RedVirtue wrote:Applying the trap light cover:
If you just try to stick the accurate light cover over the matty lens it wont sit flush.

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So shave the matty lens giving it a rounded edge.

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It now sits flush boys & girls. Glue it and call it a day.

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Could you elaborate on what tool(s) you used to shave the Matty lense, and what method you used to avoid damaging the trap? Also what glue works best to securely fasten the new lense cover in place?
By RedVirtue
#373854
Massacci wrote:Could you elaborate on what tool(s) you used to shave the Matty lense, and what method you used to avoid damaging the trap? Also what glue works best to securely fasten the new lense cover in place?
Sure can! Short answer:
1. Dremel
2. Epoxy

Long answer:
I used a dremel. I have a pretty steady hand so I felt confident doing it without removing the lens from the trap. If you don't feel as confident and don't mind removing the bottom plate (shown below) gp for it. It's easy.

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After removing this plate you'll have two screws holding the lens in place. It's pretty safe and easy to remove. Then you can shave it and put it back without accidentially slipping with the dremel on the top of your trap (which would suck). I didn't think of this till now but you could also place tape down around the lens before you dremel for a little bit of protection for aslightslip.

I then used a little bit of epoxy to glue the accurate lens in place over the original. Some that haven't opened their Matty trap may wonder why someone would shave the lens instead of removing it all together. With the way Mattel made the trap the rest of the lens underneath the exterior supports the structural integrity of the trap. Think of the portion of the lens you see as the tip of an ice-berg. The rest of the ice-berg underneath is part of the trap's structural support. So removing the lens itself would just leave you with more work to replace the support.

The accurate lenses are now available at the gbfans shop.
#375423
RedVirtue wrote: The rod can be pushed into the trap so be careful if you're doing this. It wont push back far enough to fall into the trap but if the rod is pushed in enough when you epoxy the knob it will no longer have that "matty snapping sound" when you turn it. It will also lose that friction and feel loose.

Making sure you don't push in the rod when you apply the knob will preserve how the knob was meant to operate!
Unfortunately, that's what happened with mine when I tried this mod - the rod is now pretty loose set in the trap body, and it's tricky getting it to sit out enough to get the new knob to fit. I don't see any way to be able to get inside of that thin wall there to get at the insides to fix it.

I'm thinking I'll just be losing the clicky sound, which isn't a big deal, unless anyone has any experience getting into that part of the toy?
#375471
Carpeteria wrote:
RedVirtue wrote: The rod can be pushed into the trap so be careful if you're doing this. It wont push back far enough to fall into the trap but if the rod is pushed in enough when you epoxy the knob it will no longer have that "matty snapping sound" when you turn it. It will also lose that friction and feel loose.

Making sure you don't push in the rod when you apply the knob will preserve how the knob was meant to operate!
Unfortunately, that's what happened with mine when I tried this mod - the rod is now pretty loose set in the trap body, and it's tricky getting it to sit out enough to get the new knob to fit. I don't see any way to be able to get inside of that thin wall there to get at the insides to fix it.

I'm thinking I'll just be losing the clicky sound, which isn't a big deal, unless anyone has any experience getting into that part of the toy?
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You can hold the rod in place. By applying pressure to it from the side using something VERY thin, like a safety pin needle. Applying pressure to the rod from the side will keep it from being pushed in while you're applying the new knob. Once you have the knob as far in as possible remove the pressure from the saftey pin and slide the safety pin out. Then push the knob in to fill in that very minute space. You'll still have the "clicking" sound.

Try a dry run first. Once you try it and it works do it again with glue.
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