User avatar
By Chairman Kaga
#415751
First I want to point people to Venkman71's great plans. I followed those plans mostly and the work of Jamie Young's eva foam builds were very influential.

I'm going the same eva foam route and it's been pretty straightforward. PVC for the handle and a wood rod for the post gorilla glued together. A mix of eva floor mat foam from Harbor Freight and some of the thicker variety of Foamies from Michaels/Joann's. Some weldwood contact cement and you get this:

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The doors and spacer for the doors as well as the front display housing are all made from the thicker foamies. Since this is a belt hanger I am not bothering to make the doors able to open.
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The battery compartment on the back is made up of a combo of the eva foam for supports and the thick foamies for the walls. I left a space under the switch and light in the back in case I want to incoporate some means of getting the light to blink.
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Since the battery compartment fits in snuglley I left the one side unglued to access the area.
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Next up is the cosmetic plates. Since so much of this is already foam I decided to stick with that instead of using styrene or something rigid. I'm going to use the thinner foamies sheets for the aluminum plates n the side and a mix of various foams for the knobs, front doodads etc.

I also picked up a strobe device from Ace Hardware (like this one) I believe is designed for bike riders to clip onto their clothes at night. It has a button on one end that selects between two strobe speeds, full on or off. I thought the circuit board with the LEDs would fit inside the front display but it was too large so I ended up cutting a hole in the front of the cartridge, I left the bottom hollow, and I faced the strobe toward the inside of the display housing. I then lined the inside with a bit of aluminum tape to help reflect the light. The neat thing is due to the placement I can choose the strobe setting by squeezing the end of the trap. Here is a vid to show what I mean.
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More pics tomorrow once most of the painting is done.
Last edited by Chairman Kaga on October 7th, 2012, 10:12 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Jairus liked this
User avatar
By Chairman Kaga
#415938
Some more pics. I forgot to mention yesterday that this is my first trap in general not just my first foam trap.

For the rods that go along the one side I used an old plastic coat hanger. Cut out some sections and shaped them by cutting with a utility knife and sanding. I plan on spray painting these.
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I painted the other detail parts: side plates, knobs, those front switches doodads etc
Instead of spray painting I decided to hand paint everything with some of that cheapo Michaels latex acrylic. I think it fits the foam "stunt" trap aesthetic more. Along those lines though I grabbed a dial from Radio Shack I actually painted over it to make it look less professional. See below for what I mean.
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These are just layed out to get a sense of postioning there aren't glued yet. The gold resistor is a few pieces of foam glued and painted. The ribbed plate below it is the paper insert included in a box of Old El Paso Stand and Stuff taco shells. To keep the ribs from collapsing I slid toothpicks inside them. It give that heatsink appearance at the nice price point of junk I already had.
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That Raytheon knob I made from scratch using a few thicknesses of foamies based on the measurements in Venkman71's plans.
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The rectangular doodads are just some small chunks of the floor mat foam topped with the very thin foamies, glued and painted. The round ones are some more plastic coat hanger rod with thin foamie pieces around the outside yada yada.
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Here's the trap with a few coats of paint and the plate around the front display applied. More thin foamie and silver paint.
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The front plate also thin foamie and silver paint. Note the solid doors on top are not yet painted.
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Closeup of the plate on the forward display. I used a hole punch to cut out some foam "dots" and press an allen key into them and then super glue them on for the faux bolt heads. I plan on using this same approach for the side panels.
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Oh in case anyone is curious with the batteries for the front display it clocks in at about 8oz.
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User avatar
By Chairman Kaga
#416091
Let me try to estimate.
-Foam Mat from Harbor Freight goes for $10 for a 4 pack though they are on sale quite often for less. (I ended up using only about half of one sheet.)
-The 1/2" pvc pipe was one of those precut 2' foot ones for $1.09
-The square dowel $1.77.
-The knob I bought from Radio Shack comes in a pack of 4 for $3.49
-Small jar of Weldwood contact cement $5
-Mini toggle switch $4
- The safety flashing light I want to say was around $4 or so. It was one of those impulse items by the register in Ace Hardware.

That is about $29 for stuff I bought recently.

The foamies sheets are pretty cheap at or less than $1 per (I think closer to $ .50). Those cheap paints from Michaels run about $1-2 per bottle. I used a small amount of Gorilla glue and Super Glue but I already had that as well as the lamp assembly. I bought some more replacement blades for my utility knife so that was a $4 or so. All in all probably about $40.
User avatar
By Chairman Kaga
#416424
Weathered everything and only have to apply the side plates labels and little bits.
Too bad I just realized the plate around the forward display window should be black while I made is metallic. Oh well.

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I masked off the stripes on the doors with 3/4 wide tape. I had been messing around for the last few days trying to find a way to paint the yellow stripes as saturated as I could. I used some cadmium yellow Windsor Newton paint I had but the black of the door would show through requiring too many coats. I finally settled on using some white ceiling paint I had left over from ...painting a ceiling. For those who don't know ceiling paint is usually just latex paint but it's thicker than normal so when you roll it on above your head it will prevent it dripping. The thickness of that paint and the bright white helped to pop the stripes when I put the yellow over it.

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And the last one with the display bit lit up.
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User avatar
By Gareee
#416645
Great job! I've actually been considering building an eva foam trap for our new neighbors. They had seen us do a few appearances at the local corn maze for halloween the past few years, and moved into a new home they had put in in th elast two months.

When hey saw our halloween decorations up, and realized who we were, their son decided on Ghostbusters this halloween, and they picked up the kid's halloween costume, and the inflatable stay puft costume for dad.

I know the inflatable packs suck, and don;t really have time to suprise him with a better pack, but I've got 4 packs of eva foam here (we picked up tons when I was making my wife's eva foam Mass Effect armor) and I was just thinking of doing a trap for him yesterday.

If you want to pick up a cheap flashing light for your trap, dollar general has a "strobing" led pumpkin light. (it actually has 3 leds that flash in succession) You could add wires to the leds, and run two to the front display, and one to the back "full" light housing.

I picked a few up, since it would be perffect cheap lighting for a RGB pack cyclotron.
User avatar
By Alex Newborn
#425314
I love how this looks! I just bought a trap holster but haven't brought myself to modifying my Matty trap yet, so this project looks like it might be a good solution. Plus, I already have some of the knobs and vector plate-with-resistor that I bought just for s&g.

Alex
User avatar
By Gareee
#428027
Harbor Freight had those floor mats on sale for 50% off.. I'm not sure if the sale is still going on, but $5 is a steal for them, and that eva foam comes in handy for lots of prop building.
Chairman Kaga liked this
User avatar
By Matt Campbell
#4799319
Chairman Kaga I'm looking to build a trap of my own to wear with my uniform so something light weight like this would be ideal, so I'm wondering since it's been roughly a year and a half since you posted this build how your trap has stood the test of time?

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