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By barison82
#4865868
So with a week to go before my GB1 Custom Hero Pack build starts (I am due to sent out all the parts to a propmaker; I have spent nearly a year collecting these parts, in order to achieve the highest quality custom build I possibly could) I have also decided to start paving the way for an all-metal GB1 Ghost Trap build; which I'll attempt myself...I thought this project might be small enough to manage in our apartment, although I will definitely need to go outside to do the spraying of the main parts when that becomes necessary, otherwise I'm in big trouble from the missus :-P

I am at the first stage of gathering all the right bits, and being based in the UK, it has, as with the pack build, been a very expensive exercise (customs charges, postage...all adds up).

I'm going to list in detail each part I've found, all the information needed to find these has of course come from the GBFans site and the research threads here, amongst which are the discovery of the 'difficult' knobs for the GB1 Trap; I have ordered a lot of items from electronic part suppliers in the US, as well as at the shop here on GBFans, and other prop suppliers.

I've bookmarked many awesome Trap Build threads on here, these will be the guideing light when construction actually begins!

Here's what I have so far:

Hammond Project Box 1590ABK (I got the 1590A box first, which is unpainted, then realised that they come in black)
Arcolectric Red Indicator light
Red & Yellow LEDs - for front panel & rear box
Red Light Lense cover
Lens Socket Base
Ghost Trap Hose - made with all-authentic parts: approx. 10' long high quality 1/4" split loom with super flexible hose, red tape and correct movie accurate Female Foster Quick Disconnects (2022) attached
Grey Ribbon Cable - approx. 7" length of 20-pin 28AWG cable
Cable Ties - 100mm x 2.5mm
5/32" OD Red & Yellow Tubing - approx. 6" each in length
Nycoil nut & bolt
Legris Straight - GBFans replica; can source original but not worth it I think, as these are excellent. Not sure if needed though!
Pedal Bellows - approx. 2" length, OD - 2", ID - 1.75", rigid hose with internal metal coil
Wire Mesh - for trap opening
Intense Pink Lighting Gel - to match effects from movie if lights are used (for trap opening)
Metal Wheel Bearings - x4, precision, rolls smooth!
Metal Handle - designed so screw can be recessed or stick out on top
Toggle Switch - movie accurate
Nut, Centre Rod & Ring Terminals - to convert Foster connector into a 2-contact conductor for electrical hook-ups
CAL-R MC 250 Resistor
ITT Relay RM 833212 - with movie accurate 11-pin Octal Socket
Microswitch & mounting screws - for installing in bellows so pedal can trigger trap
Rubber Feet - x4 round, black rubber feet for pedal base
Pedal Hinge & mounting screws
Trap Door Axles - with set screws so that they can be opened/closed
Neodymium Magnet - high strength, for removable rear panel
Over 100 screws for assembly - includes socket head, button head, flat & set screws, with spares in case any are dropped and lost (very likely!)
Hex Keys - including x2 precision drivers. Sizes: .050", 1/16", 3/32", 7/64", 9/64"
Phenolic Knobs - Davies Molding Co., part no. 1200-W. Specifications: 1/2" x 1/4" x 5/8"; 6-32 thread
Heath Kit Knob - from SB/HW series transmitters, original vintage. Minus skirt. Approx. 12mm width, 18mm height (to base), with 1/4" shaft
Tear Drop Pointer Knob - part no. MS91528 - 1K2B, Skirter Pointer Knob, 1/4" in round, black. I have 2 more variants of this knob on the way: MS91528 - 1UU4B (skirted) & MS91528 - 1T1B (minus skirt), both have the white indicator line printed on the seam at the top
Knob Skirt - Part no. KNB-Z31. These are the separate black plastic skirts for the base of the Tear Drop Pointer Knob.

Phew! Quite a list...and this is just the start. I have a whole load of other bits coming, more details and pics to follow :) This will be probably be a slow burn of a project, but I'm at least getting the hard part of obtaining the difficult, small fidgety parts out of the way first! Thanks for looking.
Last edited by barison82 on June 1st, 2016, 6:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
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By barison82
#4865869
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Last edited by barison82 on June 30th, 2017, 7:36 am, edited 2 times in total.
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By barison82
#4865870
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Last edited by barison82 on June 30th, 2017, 7:37 am, edited 2 times in total.
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By barison82
#4865871
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Last edited by barison82 on June 30th, 2017, 7:38 am, edited 2 times in total.
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By barison82
#4865872
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Last edited by barison82 on June 30th, 2017, 7:39 am, edited 2 times in total.
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By barison82
#4865873
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Last edited by barison82 on June 30th, 2017, 7:40 am, edited 2 times in total.
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By barison82
#4865874
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Last edited by barison82 on June 30th, 2017, 7:40 am, edited 2 times in total.
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By barison82
#4865876
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Last edited by barison82 on June 30th, 2017, 7:41 am, edited 2 times in total.
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By barison82
#4865877
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Last edited by barison82 on June 30th, 2017, 7:42 am, edited 2 times in total.
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By barison82
#4865878
An extremely rare and hard to find original part: an ITT Relay.

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Last edited by barison82 on June 30th, 2017, 7:43 am, edited 2 times in total.
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By barison82
#4865879
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Last edited by barison82 on June 30th, 2017, 7:45 am, edited 3 times in total.
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By barison82
#4865880
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Last edited by barison82 on June 30th, 2017, 7:45 am, edited 2 times in total.
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By barison82
#4865881
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Last edited by barison82 on June 30th, 2017, 7:46 am, edited 2 times in total.
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By barison82
#4865882
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Last edited by barison82 on June 30th, 2017, 7:47 am, edited 2 times in total.
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By barison82
#4865983
Nice to see another UK trap build getting underway :) Which trap kit are you building? I couldn't see it mentioned in your posts, Judging by the parts its looks like you're doing the 3D printed version, am I right?
Hi! Thanks Image Lol I don't have the kit yet...I'm not sure where I'm getting that from - I'm wanting to do an all-aluminium build but I could use 3D printing if this option is not possible...I have the files for that.
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By barison82
#4866019
Those are some great parts you've collected! Looking forward to seeing this come together :cool:
Thanks very much for the encouragement. It has taken a lot of effort to get them; I thought it wouldn't be possible at all with some of those parts! After the next set of components arrive I'll have to start thinking about the main trap body; I would like to go the all-metal route so I need to look into what the options are for doing that; I could have the alumium parts cut using the appropriate specs I guess. Otherwise 3D printing or a resin kit, depending on what's available :)
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By GohstTarp
Supporting Member
#4866023
It has taken a lot of effort to get them; I thought it wouldn't be possible at all with some of those parts!
I hear that... I've been collecting trap parts very casually for the past two years. Thanks to the the clues in your photos, I was able to order a Red Light Lens Cover!
I would like to go the all-metal route so I need to look into what the options are for doing that; I could have the alumium parts cut using the appropriate specs I guess. Otherwise 3D printing or a resin kit, depending on what's available :)
I'm leaning toward going the 3D printed route because of convenience and the light weight. My only con with the current 3D printed option is that the trap cartridge is not removable.
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By barison82
#4866027
I hear that... I've been collecting trap parts very casually for the past two years. Thanks to the the clues in your photos, I was able to order a Red Light Lens Cover!
Wow, that's a long time...but that's awesome, so glad the info helped! Always feel free to ask if you need any help :)
I'm leaning toward going the 3D printed route because of convenience and the light weight. My only con with the current 3D printed option is that the trap cartridge is not removable.
Yeah I'm thinking along those lines myself - weight is the main the concern I have for practical reasons; I'd love to hook this up and carry it around instead of the Mattel one, which I'm too afraid to take outdoors. The non-removable cartridge going the 3D route is a big drawback; it's an awesome feature to have and just gets it to that fully-functional level. As I've got the necessary parts to allow the pedal to operate the trap doors, I feel that the removable cartridge should be part of this build as well, as I've gone that far already with all the details for accuracy...tricky one.
By damster117
#4866051
If weight is a consideration and you're thinking of carrying it I think I'd avoid an all metal build if I were you! I've upgraded my GB1 trap build with aluminium tracks and a number of other metal parts and it's getting quite heavy now even tho it's based on a Nick-a-tron resin kit. It's not just the aluminium parts themselves , but the steel fixings holding it all together making up the extra weight.
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By barison82
#4866157
If weight is a consideration and you're thinking of carrying it I think I'd avoid an all metal build if I were you! I've upgraded my GB1 trap build with aluminium tracks and a number of other metal parts and it's getting quite heavy now even tho it's based on a Nick-a-tron resin kit. It's not just the aluminium parts themselves , but the steel fixings holding it all together making up the extra weight.
Hi! Lol this is helpful advice, thanks! I think I was attracted to the fact that it would truly be a bit of 'hardware' if made entirely out of metal, but as you say, it would be just to damned heavy, and I can imagine the utility belt sagging all the way down under the weight! I might actually go for Nick-a-tron's resin kit, and as he is based in the UK, it would be very handy post/cost wise as well.
By damster117
#4866248
Hi! Lol this is helpful advice, thanks! I think I was attracted to the fact that it would truly be a bit of 'hardware' if made entirely out of metal, but as you say, it would be just to damned heavy, and I can imagine the utility belt sagging all the way down under the weight! I might actually go for Nick-a-tron's resin kit, and as he is based in the UK, it would be very handy post/cost wise as well.
You're welcome :) I think I'd be sagging under the weight of all-metal trap, let alone the belt! I think you can get the "feel" of a more real trap by changing a few key parts to metal. Things like a metal handle add to the sense of realism- just being cold to the touch makes it feel more like a real bit of kit than a prop, and it already feels hefty enough to be a working trap!

Having metal sides etc isn't that noticeable once they're painted black anyway as the side plates cover them. Take a look at Bromies GB1 trap build to see how realistic Nicks kit can look once all the proper parts are fitted to it. You wouldn't really know it was resin just by looking at it. It was his build that helped me decide on Nick's kit as well as obviously the advantages of Nick being in the UK.
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By barison82
#4866396
Thanks lol yeah I probably would be too! I see; well I'll have lots of metal bits going on it; the vector plates and the handle will be metal; and the pedal will be virtually all-metal as well actually. So yeah, the realism is there anyway really. You're right.

Resin is also a very tough material actually. And really good points! I'll check out Bromies thread with interest! Looks like I'll be heading toward a Nick-a-tron kit myself then Definitely a nice advantage being in the UK; it'll give me a much needed break from postage/import charges lol
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By barison82
#4866400
Another parts update: the 2 other Mil-Spec Tear Drop knobs arrived; in two variants:

MS-91528 1UU4B - with white pointer and skirt at bottom, 1/4" thread:

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(I think these knobs are designed to be used without the separate dial skirt on the bottom)

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MS-91528 1T1B - with white pointer and minus skirt at bottom, 4-42 thread:

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After some experimentation, I've found the 1T1B variant to be the best fit for the separate knob skirts that I have, and it makes more sense rather than having the knob with the extra skirt on the bottom, as well as the additional dial skirt underneath it. The 1T1B is a perfect fit:

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Last edited by barison82 on June 30th, 2017, 8:15 am, edited 5 times in total.
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By barison82
#4866521
Those knobs look spot on! May I ask where you got the knobs and skirts from? I'm finding it very difficult to source real knobs from our side of the pond. All the ones I have got hold of for my build are resin copies thus far and it'd be nice to have the real thing!
You certainly can. The 1T1B Pointer Knobs are available here: https://www.tedss.com/2051000492. I'm certain that these are the correct ones to use. You won't find these in the UK - believe me, I've tried!

The KNB-Z31 Knob skirts can be found here: http://www.surplussales.com/ShaftHardware/Knobs-10.html (scroll down a little)

There is nothing like having the real thing! I have to warn you though, the postage cost is not cheap. I do have some spare knob skirts available though so PM me if interested!
#4866937
Truly impressive with the knob acquisitions! Those side knobs are super hard to find. I just started the 3D printed trap and I cannot recommend it enough!
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By barison82
#4867253
Truly impressive with the knob acquisitions! Those side knobs are super hard to find. I just started the 3D printed trap and I cannot recommend it enough!
Thanks a lot - it took a lot of looking around, and there are quite a few variants out there, which really made it confusing. Yeah still like the 3D method too; I'm still deciding at the moment. Do you have a build thread going?

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