By thebigone2087
#4879581
Thats up to Countspatula - the creator of the trap files and the electronics guide. He is currently working on it so, hopefully soon.
#4885432
countspatula
I am a bit late to the party, but find this thread interesting.
I think if I were to build another Ghostbusters prop this would be the one.

I don't know if this thread is still active, but I have a question.
I see from the various videos I have watched of the traps, that there is a light in the foot pedal
that seems to be connected to the same circuit as the power light on the main trap body.
When the light flashes on the trap, so does the light on the foot pedal.
Is the light on your pedal wired directly to the main light on the trap itself?
If you are using only a 2 wire connection to the trap from the pedal to active the electronics,
how is the light able to be a separate circuit?
Also, is the relay on the foot pedal used at all in the circuit or just for looks to enhance the props
details?

Just wondering... :^)
User avatar
By WindDrake
#4885698
I'm actually in the middle of building my 3D Printed Trap. I'm using the Hyperdyne light/motion kit, and sadly the whole gear-drive arrangement doesn't work because the kit uses a wide ribbon cable for the bargraph LED's. Ah well. What is working nicely, however, is the wireless module I'm using for trap activation.
User avatar
By WindDrake
#4885701
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I really wish I would have taken more pics when I was building the trap, but here's the gist.

I bought this wireless module off eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291719407390?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

It's a real simple pair of relay contacts, and in the ~300mhz RF range, figure not much would interfere with it. I wasn't worried about the 12v requirement, as most electronics in this category are good with 8-14v.

Image

That's the electronics mounted in the trap. You can see the Hyperdyne pair of boards, along with the wireless module in the back.

Long story short: I soldered additional wires to the Hyperdyne trap trigger board at the 3.5mm jack used to hook up the pedal switch. It's only using 2 contacts in reality, so when you flip the board over it's pretty obvious which pins to use (test by shorting with tweezers/screwdriver/etc). These were run to the NO and COM screw terminals for Relay 1 (Button B). Now when you hit B on the remote, the trap acts like the pedal has been hit.

For power, you can solder to the terminals for the 7805 +5v regulator for +9vDC and GND (use INPUT + COMMON). This will make it so that the wireless module won't get power till you turn the trap on.

7805 Datasheet: https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Com ... LM7805.pdf

I've not tested it outside but across my house it works fine.
User avatar
By WindDrake
#4885705
Here's how I did the pedal.

Hardware Installed:
Image

How to cut the housing for the wires:
Image

Wiring:
Image

Wires on Board:
Image

Short version: Removed the red LED from the transmitter board, ran wires to the external LED. Used the testpoints/vias behind the "11" Switch (B Button) to run wires for the pedal microswitch.

Works like a champ.
By propmaster2000
#4885709
Hi WindDrake,
Where is the voltage to the transmitter in the foot peddle coming from?
Are you still using the battery?
Also in this set up, the power indicator LED (light) on the foot peddle won't blink with the trap LED (light) since they are not connected to each other, is this correct?

Just wondering, since the actual prop trap has a physical connection to the foot peddle by a 2 wire conductor cable, why are you going wireless?

.
Last edited by propmaster2000 on November 14th, 2016, 10:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By WindDrake
#4885721
Voltage in the transmitter comes from the A23 cell in the fob itself - still using that, as those kinds of remotes are dead until the switch is actually hit, so battery bleed-down isn't usually an issue.

In this config, the lamp on the pedal won't blink in time with the trap, no. I intend to go more GB:TVG with my trap (wireless activation), so the light running in time with the trap wasn't super important to me - it does at least activate when you hit the pedal, as I've grabbed the LED driver lines from the transmitter PCB.

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