By Battle Lion
#4902489
BoK trap kit
Lights from Jupiter electronics
Servo doors open via pedal
Smoke and air pump are triggered via radio, independently

here's the video of it in action
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mEVj3S8FduZFsRWF2


Still needs some tweaking to increase amount of smoke. Bench testing yielded significantly more smoke, but tube diameter was changed and a directional exhaust tube was added that could be a restriction.
Last edited by Battle Lion on January 23rd, 2018, 2:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
doctorevil30564 liked this
By Battle Lion
#4902496
Thanks man, it was a budget build. tried to show you dont have to be a genius or spend a lot to get a trap with decent features.

the servos i got on ebay, standard 5g ones. cheap. 3 wires.

i'm not a programming guy and i figured most anything you want to do has already been built onto a board of some kind so i went looking for off the shelf solutions.

SparkFun makes a $17 servo control board. you can daisy chain the two servos onto one board. runs on 5v. it has 3 potentiometers on it. one sets start position, the next sets end position (i set these to 0 and 90 degrees) and the third does speed. i set that to full. really easy to use and solder and now any trap can have opening doors for under $50

whats great about that board is that it allows you to control the servo operation via a SPST switch which i built into my pedal. its part number on sparkfun's website is 13118.

in order to get the switch to talk to the board, i needed two wires. rather than use air hose and make it hold 2 wires, i just used coax cable with quick disconnect adapters to replicate the foster quick disconnects. coax gives you two wires, the alumnium mesh that wraps around the shielded copper core gives you your second wire. pretty neat idea and saved a lot of time and money. you cant solder the copper wires to the aluminum mesh though, so i stripped a long length of wire and channelled my inner boy scout and actually LASHED the copper wire to the aluminum mesh, then soldered down the lashing. i might be the first person to ever lash signal wires together haha but my voltmeter says it has negligible resistance and it works perfectly.

theres only one battery inside the trap: a 12v NiMH rechargeable with 2200mAh. i think it was $25. i used a 12v->5v regulator to get the power the servo board needs.

i used a 12v->9v regulator to get the light kit to work. regulators were only a couple bucks each on ebay.

i ordered the cheapo light kit from jupiter and soldered off its 10 led bar graph because it wasnt long enough or the right color. i ordered a 10 and a 5 in a color i liked and glued them together. then i took the 10 wires coming off the light board and doubled up a few of the LED leads to the wires so it will still chase and be the right size. it was about $30 i think

pain in the neck. do not recommend. just get the better light kit they sell.

the air pump is actually a water pump for a fish tank, i found one that ran on 12v directly so it hooks right to the battery. it moves a lot more air than the other pumps i tested which is useful for getting more smoke. i have mine actually sucking the smoke instead of blowing on the ecig. it was about $5

the ecig i used is a 100w tesli cigs stealth with a sub ohm tank. very low profile and just barely fits. about $30. im using non nicotein juice with a high VG to get the most smoke.

i found on ebay an $8 2 channel remote relay that i wired the ecig and pump to. eight bucks!! works great. i have a little key fob with 2 buttons. theyre momentay but they can be set up as latching as well.

theres a master kill switch for the servo board to keep the servos quiet when its just hanging on the belt. i hid it as one of the switches on the back plate.

the pedal (not seen) has a small LED light that comes on when the pedal is pressed as well.

the inside is a mess of wires but i'll upload some pics of it too at some point.
Glenn Frederick liked this
By Battle Lion
#4902544
the battery, pump vape and circuit boards i put in mine just BARELY all fit, and only with fairly extreme modification to the trap itself via a dremel and lots of plastic removed.

its not enough to have a good, low profile vape in there, it needs to have a decent sized tank too so you dont have to refill it often, and it needs to have a simple switch instead of the ones with complicated control panels so you can solder wires on and trigger it remotely.

i ended up using the Teslacigs Stealth. its a 100w vape with a simple push button. i got the Tobecco super mini tank. which is low profile and doesnt sit up much higher than the top of the vape.

this is a $30 sub ohm entry level "cloudchasing" vape that can actually make really decent smoke. i'm actually disappointed with my trap because i was making a LOT more smoke before i changed the intake tube diameter and added an exhaust tube.

The vape itself has a .75"x .5" circuit board on it with a soldered on micro momentary switch that controls it. i broke my first vape trying to solder off this tiny switch. it is so freaking small.

then i had to solder on a wire to the contact pad the switch used to bridge. this contact pad was about the size of a top of a pin and it was really tough to get a good connection. i soldered the ground directly onto the USB charge port because i knew it was a good ground and it was a snap to solder to. after that, i epoxied a big glob onto my positive wire so it will never come off, then glued down the wire to the vape itself to act as stress relief even further.

The vape itself though is only half of the solution. the vape needs air movement in order to work, so the pump you get needs to move about as much air as human lungs do in a deep breath, taken over about 7 or 8 seconds. i wouldnt want to run the ecig much longer than that in fear of burning it out.

my water pump claims its 1000 liters per hour i think thats about point 6 CFM. needless to say youre going to need 12v 1A to run that pump. it does a great job if you dont restrict it like i did for the sake of space.

I was an idiot and didnt measure ANYTHING when i was picking out internals, but the stars aligned and i was able to get everything to fit, but it took a week to find the right way and order to put in all the components. they are NOT coming back out haha.

the relay i used is as 2 channel remote relay from ebay. super cheap. AND it runs on 12v so you dont need a regulator.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-2-Chann ... Sw4kVZuI~8

this is a great relay and im going to buy more of them for all kinds of projects. cant beat the price either!

i set the relay up as momentary, not latching, each channel controls one device. i did it this way so i can get the pump running first, then the ecig, then turn off the ecig, and finally turn off the pump. this replicates how you would use the ecig IRL and keeps the wick from burning out a little longer.
i also like that since its not latching, i cant trigger it accidentally and just have it running when i dont know.

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