User avatar
By Hijacker
#4903289
Behold! The build of my Throwing Chicken GB1 hero style trap! I didn't see a lot of build threads out there, so I though I'd post up some pictures of my build in hopes to help some other folks out when they open up the kit and it's mind boggling amount of pieces. I'm building this with minimal clean up involved. I want to show off just how well TC's casts are made. The only clean up I've done is when there was some overage that created install issues. Otherwise, there is no clean up whatsoever.

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-It seriously is a ton of stuff. Hats off to TC for making such a complete kit!

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-He even includes hardware to put it all together.

I made a couple deviations from the intended build. There are a bunch of phillips head tapping screws meant to hold most of the kit together. I have a phobia of using self tapping hardware on resin and had a bunch of #6 hardware I had set aside for my original trap build.

The first thing I did was start to install the base plates inside the trap body and on the bottom of the trap cartridge. The intended hardware and the #6 I used have flat heads intended for counter sinking. To do this, I grabbed my countersink bit and started opening the holes in the laser cut ABS. This allows the hardware to sit below the surface of the ABS and allow the cartridge to slide in and out of the body with little drag.

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-The counter sunk hole in the base plate of the cartridge.

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-I plan to replace the allen head screws with slotted screws as I BELIEVE the slotted screws are screen accurate. They are definitely screen accurate for the track inside the body.

Getting the countersink just right does take some test fitting. Counter sink bits can chew through the ABS plate pretty quickly and easily, so I was conservative by countersinking a bit more shallow and then making the countersink deeper as I test fitted everything.

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-Most of the hardware installed for the base plate and tracks. It's important for these to be flush with their ABS surfaces so the trap cart can slide easily.

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-I used a foster fitting from the GBFans shop, which uses a 1/8 NPT threading much like 99% of all the other fittings used on the proton pack and trap pedal. It's not possible to drill the hole and just secure the fitting from the inside. The resin is too thick. With pipe taps, the flaring is done that if you tap it too deep, then the threads can get loose. So, when I run NPT threads, I run the tap in a few turns and test my fitting until I get the depth of the fitting with the tightness on the threads I want.

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-Side plates are pretty straight forward. The trap body is already marked for where to make the holes, but they do seem to be off a hair to the laser cut ABS. I had to enlarge the holes a fair amount to get them to line up with the tapped holes. TC includes #8 button heads, but digging through some old threads here on GBFans, and doing some picture comparison. They appear to be #6 button heads. The nice part of using undersized hardware is that if I'm wrong and it's larger, I can just drill and tap it. If I used #8 and it was actually #6, there's no going back. The smaller plates are held in with #4 allen heads.

I didn't take any decent pictures of installing the wheels and axles, but it's fairly straight forward. Each wheel bearing is held in with one of the circular ABS cut pieces to hold the wheel to the axle. The axle is held in place with #6 allen heads. The trap body has holes already in place, so use #6 bolts long enough and secure with #6 nuts inside the body. One thing I noticed with mine is that there isn't a whole lot of clearance between the outside of the bearing and the side of the hole they sit in. My bearings were also super stiff, and I've been trying to loosen them up by running them with a drill. To do that, I've used a lego wheel attached to a drill. Spin the drill, then use the spinning lego rubber to spin the bearing. It loosens up the bearings if they're packed tight from the factory, but my wheels still seem REALLY tight. I may end up ordering new ones as replacements.

TC includes a vector plate with Cal-R as a cast in piece, but I've had some real vectors and Cal-R resistors sitting around for this build. So I went a bit above and beyond. if you use the cast piece, it's a matter of drilling for #4 hardware and then tapping.

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-My first step was to wrap the edge of the ABS plate. Then I made some lines at 5/8" from the edge. This is even spacing all the way around for the vector plate.

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-To set the vector plate in place, I took my digital micrometer and secured it at roughly 5/8" with the set screw and then double checked my vector plate was in place then taped it down.

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-I was going to mark the vector and then remove it to drill. Then I was like, nah. I drilled it while taped to the plate.

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-The holes were perfectly drilled in the channels. Then I just took a drill bit that was the right size of a #4 allen bolt head to counter sink. There is an up and down to the vector plate. There's a wide bar in between the two slot channels. It goes in the lower half like I have pictured here.

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-I debated how I was going to secure these. I decided to use #6 allen heads from inside the trap body. There are holes in the ABS that line up perfectly with the pre-marked holes on the bars. I drilled the holes through to pass the #6 screws, but needed to use a right angle attachment on my dremel with a router bit to make recesses for the bolts.

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-They're not 100% flush, but the only one that causes clearance issues was sanded down (my dremel broke during this stage, so I'll need to replace it if I want to finish countersinking)

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-The handle is pretty straight forward, too. It has 4 main components. The handle, the spring holder, the internal latch, and the cover. Here, I have the spring holder attached with two #4 screws. It overhangs a bit and requires some sanding to make flush with the handle.

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-Spring holder sanded flush.

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-The latch is held in place with a pivot screw. It needs to be countersunk with the countersink bit.

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-I also sanded down the other side of it to be flush. The latch itself is also a hair too thick for the handle, so it'll need shaved. Don't shave the side that will reduce the surface area for the nub to hold the spring.

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-The handle installed with the #10 screws and the T-nuts. I feel that the screws are a hair too long and will install smaller ones on final install. I plan on gluing the T-nuts in place and them glazing them over with putty to hide them. The included screws are too long and poke through the T-nut, which would cause problems with what I want to do.

The handle cover is glued in place, but I haven't done that on mine yet. It'll clip in place and hold there, but don't expect it to stay like that.

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-Like a dolt, I forgot to take pictures of the front indicator assembly install. It's straight forward, though. It's held in by two of the flare screws that will need a countersink, and from the inside, it uses two #6 screws. The front plate was held in with two #4 screws.

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-This guy installs with the front indicator assembly via the two interior screws. It's purpose is to support the servos for the door mechanism.

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-I taped the front bar graph bezel in place and then drilled a couple holes to hold it tight so I could drill the other two. TC uses some kind of drop in insert that's glued in place. It unfortunately is right in the way of the holes I had to drill and tap for the #4 screws. So just be careful when drilling and tapping here. Take drilling for the top two slow and steady as you could easily punch through the front of the indicator assembly.

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-Installed.

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-Everything installed up to this point. The rear battery box cover is held in with #6 button heads, and I went ahead and installed my linrose cover and lamp base. The cover does not stay on very well, so it'll get some glue in the future. I'm also thinking about changing the base into an LED holder instead of an incandescent holder.

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-The doors aren't installed yet, but there are holes already cast into them. I tapped one end for #6, and used the 1" long allen head screws There's a bit of overlapfor the doors with the marked positions on the ear tabs. So I'm still trying to line mine up. One of my doors also need some heat treatment to take out a curve.

Overall, I'm extremely pleased with the trap. The build is pretty much on rails, it just FEELS like a lot when you first get it. Hopefully, this build will help others who get their brains melted when they open the kit and get hardware overload.

I haven't decided how I want to attach the side and front knobs. I have a proper mil-spec pointer knob, but need a skirt for it. The fluted side knob is something I'm still trying to source out.

I'm also waiting on the ejection pins. There's a lot of pieces for the kit, and the pins were forgotten as were the 1/8" door hinge pins. Those are on the way, so I'll grab some install pics of those when they come in.
H2Ghost, Kingpin, Polly liked this
User avatar
By Hijacker
#4903309
I found a really good solution for the side knob install.

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-I found these at Lowes in the hardware aisle. You gotta look in the pull out bins. At my Lowes, they were near the furniture hardware bins.

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-I bought two because I plan on using the threaded insert part for my real deal knobs. The screw part is useful for the resin knobs. Just drill and tap the knob for a #8 screw.

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-I drilled the big side plate to have a hole the size of the flared part of the hardware. The shank of the threaded insert perfectly fits the laser cut hole of the smaller plate. I wasn't careful with this plate and accidentally broke it with the drill. Thankfully it snapped back in and a little super glue will keep it together. It's hidden under the small plate, so no one will ever see the damage.

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-The knob installed on the plate. The screw obviously secures it from behind. If it was the threaded insert, it just floats behind the plate.

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-Everything installed. It's a perfect fit IMO. And when I can finally find the real deal knob, it's just a matter of pulling the small plate, swapping over to the threaded insert and then securing the knob with it's set screw.

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-My real deal knob installed on the other side. I found a better solution for the flared skirt of the knob. I just need to order it.

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-I grabbed some better pictures of the motor mounts when it's installed.

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-I also installed the D-sub connector, here's a picture from the inside. It uses the #4 flat head allen screws. I tapped the holding plate to accept the #4 screws, but you could also use the included #4 nuts to hold it as well, which I'll do as an added measure to ensure it doesn't rip out.

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-The last thing I did for the night was super glue the black circle onto the end of the handle.
Kingpin liked this
By johnminterc
#4903315
Keep posting! I want to see this build finished and thanks I’ve been wanting to get his kit and it looks amazing! Send me your address and I’ll send you a real GB1 side knob the color is a dark dark green looks black but you can always paint it. Let me know if you want one and I’ll send you one
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By Hijacker
#4903322
PM sent!

I definitely recommend TC’s kit. My first prop purchase was his neutrona wand kit. His stuff is great quality and pretty much all inclusive. There’s a few things I’ll change out for screen accuracy sake, but I want to get it together in its base form to give people an idea of what they get when they buy from him.
User avatar
By Hijacker
#4903354
I got a little more work done today. I swung by Fastenal after work to pick up some screws to swap out. I picked up some shorter #4 allen heads for the small plates. The provided ones stuck through just a hair too much, so shorter ones won't rub against the cartridge when it moves. I also picked up some extra #6 button heads to use for the front cover plate. The Sedgewick hero has button heads, and that's kind of the look I'm going for. While I was there, I also picked up some 1/8" dowels so I could finish installing the doors. TC includes those, but my kit was missing them. He's sending some, but I'm an impatient man sometimes.

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-I drilled the holes for the #6 door ear screws. Then I used a 1/4" bit to countersink the recess for the head. There's enough material there to thread for the #6 allen head. I used small 1/4" long #6 allen heads.

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-The shorter door that has the lower lip for the door overlap had a slight warp in it. That was fixed with a heat gun on low and some heavy 1" steel plates from my 12 ton press. I heated up the center of the door with the warp facing up. Then, when it was soft enough, I sandwiched the door between my plates and waited for it to cool. Came out straight and narrow. The slight gap between the doors now is because the upper door (furthest from the camera) has some excess that needs shaved.

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-I couldn't resist grabbing my pedal and snapping a few pics of them side by side. The pedal isn't quite done. I need to make a internal switch for the bellows still.

I think the way the trap sits is representative of what you get straight out of the box. TC outdid himself with this kit and it looks gorgeous before doing any form of cleanup on it. So I think I'll start cleaning up the casting flash, making some changes for screen accuracy sake, and begin the long wait for painting weather.
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User avatar
By Hijacker
#4903401
So, it was a rare 80 degree February day today in Virginia. I took advantage of the weather and got some base coats sprayed and started filling in trouble areas with some Bondo.

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-This is the worst area. There's not much you can do when you have a flat area and bubbles can collect. TC at least put it in a low visibility area.

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-But that's why we invented Bondo! Bubbles? What bubbles?

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-I only filled in the lower seam because with how I installed my meter bezel, it was partially exposed. The other seams are still hidden.

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-After gluing down the handle cover, the cover is a bit raised. I skimmed it with some bondo and then sanded the shit out of it.

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-Most of the bondo was sanded off, but it was really there as a buffer for the seams. Sanding down the ABS cover so it's flush with the resin of the handle is the most ideal. It'll need another pass during paint as a few sections of the seam are visible after the first base coat was sprayed on.

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-It's hard to see. My camera wanted to focus on anything but the handle. There are small seams near the circle at the top of the handle, and one near the bottom. Easy peasy fixes.

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-The last thing I did was fill in the T-nuts. I super glued them in place with the handle installed. After I had everything removed, I put in some small #10 bolts to block the threads and slopping in some bondo.

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-After some 80 grit on the palm sander and some 200 grit by hand, it came out looking nice. If I can still see anything after the base coats are sprayed on, I'll do another fill and sand.

I need to swing by Fastenal tomorrow so I can install some #4 flat heads where TC had cast some into the mold. It's a great touch, but I think having some real hardware will make it pop even more. I thought they were #6s (which I have plenty), but they measure just a hair under 0.250", which is roughly the size of a #4. The #6 is too large, and I'm afraid it'd be too wide and stick out over the edge of the body plate.
User avatar
By Hijacker
#4903435
I added the side screws today.

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-This will make the screws stand out a bit more than with the cast in imprints. I couldn't find any 4-40 flat heads, but I did find some M3x0.5, which has the same dimensions for the flat head. My metric tap is for M3x0.6, so instead of of drilling and tapping, I just oversized the hole a bit and glued the screws in place.

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-They peak out just perfectly.

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-I also started preparing the handle for adding fake welds to mimic how the handle on the original was mounted.

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-A little plumbers putty was added

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-Not the best I've done, but it gets the point across. The original welds looked like a hot mess anyways, so I'm not too terribly worried about making them look perfect. LOL
User avatar
By Hijacker
#4903482
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-My pins finally came in. I thought it was going to be some milled pins with channels for the e-clips. But it's just some 1/4" aluminum bar stock cut to length. I cleaned them up and gave them a bevel on the end like the screen used props.

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-I put the pins in and set my micrometer to 5/8" and then positioned the pins so they stuck out 5/8" past the divider wall. I marked the pins where the passed the divider wall from the inside.

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-I grabbed my hacksaw and gave each pin a slight channel so the e-clips could sit in them. The e-clips will act like a stop preventing the pins from passing through the divider as well as giving the springs a surface to push against.

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-I had trouble getting the supplied springs in place, so I grabbed some springs from my stock that fit and were strong. The pins will travel in the channel and an ABS plate holds everything place. The bevel on the end is visible in these pictures.

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-The bevel on the pins is noticeable in the GBFans reference pictures. I'm still debating on how I'm going to handle the D-sub connector. In these reference shots, there's nothing, but there's no way to get power to the inside of the cartridge otherwise.

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-The ABS plate is held down by some #8 button heads.
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By Hijacker
#4905420
I know it's been a while, but life has been busy.

Anyways, I had disassembled the trap and began painting it a while ago. I did my usual, primer, 2-3 layers of silver, 3 layers of clear, and then 3 layers of satin black.

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-I rarely spray anything fully assembled, but all of my slotted screws for the track system needed to be spray painted black. So, I popped them in some cardboard and gave them a couple coats of satin black.

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-The end result

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-I had some extra vinyl labels from my proton pack that have been sitting around for about four years waiting on this build. I cut up the fuse label for the top of the EDA and applied the smaller part of it to the top of the battery box cover.

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-The rest of the label. I'll need to make a V-hook receiver once I get a belt holster for the trap.

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-The screen used hero trap on prop bay clearly shows tape used for the stripes. It looks like yellow tape with black gaffers tape (maybe). I decided to just use yellow tape. The tape used on the screen used has ribbing that looks like colored duct tape, so I ran out and picked up some yellow duct tape.

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-The tape is 3/4" wide, so I had to cut down the duct tape. To get a perfect edge, I took some extra aluminum stock I had lying around that was cut to 3/4" wide. I cut it with a razor blade and then placed the stripes over the doors while installed. The last bit was to cut the tape at the edge of the doors and down the middle. If it turns out I chose wrong and should have used a different tape, it's an easy fix at least.

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-I'm still trying to source out the correct heathkit knob for the side, but in the meantime, I spray painted the resin cast one with plastidip as well as the front slider knobs. I noticed after I installed the slider knobs that the front plate is cut mirrored. It was probably in the laser cutter upside down and wasn't noticed because it's covered in masking tape to cut down on the burn marks.

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-So far, so good! I swear this kit feels like cheating. It looks too good.

So, the last few things I need to get are a toggle switch and figure out how I'm going to handle the mounting nut. I also need to order 3" aluminum plates for the side. The ABS plates are nice, but I dislike that it's only a surface treatment. I can't bevel the plates properly, and there's visible black showing. I also need to get a better pointer knob skirt. The one I cut just doesn't look right and doesn't mate up properly to the knob.

I still need to figure out exactly what I want to do for the front knobs. There isn't a lot of consensus on them from what I've read.

I also want to find out the exact foster connector used. The ones we've been using are too long and brass. The ones on the prop bay trap are nickel and shorter.

I'll need to swap at least the top rail on the trap body. The amount of pressure the pins place on the bottom of the trap put a lot of torque on the rails, and they visibly bow and flex when the cartridge is installed. So I'll need to go source some aluminum strips to go in there.

I also want to swap out the bearings. The ones TC included are really tight. I've tried to loose them up, but they refuse to roll freely. I have some skate bearings from when I first started hoarding parts, but they're too small.

So, ironically, after I was done doing a bunch of guessing and testing on assembly, I realized TC had sent me a link to his imgur gallery for assembly. So, here's the link. https://imgur.com/a/Ay3Fq

then I guess it's electronics.
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By Hijacker
#4905620
You guys are too kind!

My metal plates came in from McMaster-Carr, and I went to town with my angle cutter and belt sander. The included ABS plates are super nice, but you can't beat real metal.

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I still need to cut the front, but I haven’t replaced my dremel yet. It may need to wait until I can get some proper tools.

I also had an extra 27 segment bar graph lying around from when I was designing my pack lights. I scrapped the idea and went with a GBFans kit, but had purchased a bunch of stuff. The bar graph is the same one used on the GBFans kit, so I PMed Spongeface and ordered a bezel kit. The hero trap used the same bar graph as the hero wands, so this is a perfect solution.

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-I filed the opening of the plate a bit to accept the bezel and super glued it in from behind to secure it in place. I then spray painted the assembly before inserting the bar graph. The bezel should peak up just a bit.

I didn't finish up the plexiglass decal install last night. It should go on today. Then I'll need to do a bit of touch up on the plate.
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User avatar
By CPU64
Supporting Member
#4905631
That reference trap is not the one with the electronics that's why it doesn't need the connector.
As far as I know, the trap seen in the slime capture is one of a kind and there aren't any pictures of it anywhere. It's a bit different than all other traps we have pictures of.
User avatar
By Hijacker
#4905636
Hmm..that's the first I've heard of that, but I'm also far from an expert on ghost traps. I know the reference trap we've been using does have internal electronics since the GBFans section shows an IDE pin header as well as the linrose lamp lit. It's also the same trap as the prop bay trap. I'll have to rewatch the ballroom scene. I just recently got a 4k TV and haven't watched through that scene. I need to frame by frame it for the pedal as well.
User avatar
By Barking Dragon
#4905913
Awesome buildup Hijacker..

Would it be possible to tell me what the real name part/numbers are for all of the knobs on the sides and ends are as well as the light on the top please. I'm going to attempt to build one of these soon so I'm trying to source parts needed but have no idea on these parts 'real' names. GB shop doesn't have them either :(

Any assistance with this would be greatly appreciated.

Regards dan
User avatar
By Hijacker
#4905934
I don’t know the knobs on the front just yet. The Side knobs are a milspec MS91528-1K1B and a heathkit knob minus the aluminum skirt there are three sizes of heathkit knobs. Most suppliers only have the large and small. There’s a third option that’s smaller than the small, but I have yet to find any. I can say for certain the small is too large.

As for the top light, one of the sticky posts has it listed as a Linrose B4611B1 pilot light. I picked up mine from allied a few years back, but they’ve been discontinued since then.
User avatar
By Barking Dragon
#4905999
Thanks for that Hijacker ;)

I was looking thru Undertaker6x3's list and while there are ALOT of parts listed...quite a few are just a name but no numbers to go with them. Also some of his listed parts have been argued as incorrect. All the same, thanks for taking the time to get me started.

Regards dan
User avatar
By Hijacker
#4906147
That reference trap is not the one with the electronics that's why it doesn't need the connector.
As far as I know, the trap seen in the slime capture is one of a kind and there aren't any pictures of it anywhere. It's a bit different than all other traps we have pictures of.
I finally got around to watching the ballroom scene in 4k last night.

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It's clear as day there's a pusher. There's an button head there as well, but I don't know how it's holding onto the door. In the 4k, the set screw at the end of the handle isn't present either, and neither is the latch for the cartridge. There are definitely two hero traps. I really need to get a BluRay player for my laptop so I can get some quality 4k screencaps.
User avatar
By Kingpin
Moderator
#4906151
There's an button head there as well, but I don't know how it's holding onto the door.
Could be the door has been drilled through, and the bolt cut and filed down to be uniform with the utmost edge (and is basically fixed in place by the bolt threading through the metal of the door), and hidden on top by the stripe detailing?
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