#275361
OCTOBER 27th UPDATE

Now it's time for the Powercell assembly. I can't remember if I showed the ribs applied, but here they are. Also, wood dowels with pvc housings.
Image

This L-bracket used to be the same length on both sides. I cut it down, and drilled 2 new holes in the area connecting the injector tubes.
Image

The front area of my powercell will have an access panel for when electronics are added, so here's two more of those magical threaded inserts for socket head screws.
Image

T
he center channel had the wooden dowel added on with a screw and wood glue:
Image

**Let me point out here, that I've been cutting these dowel lengths here at home with a mini-hacksaw. Not very fun, especially when I think about how fast it'd be with the 'Ecto-Saw' over at HQ. :) But MAN my arms feel huge.

And I went ahead and cut the rubbermaid turntable's center out. This was later permanently fixed to the cyclotron and painted.
Image

Painting, painting, painting. I wanted to do something subtle with the paint, so I used a combination of flat black, hammered black, and tiny, distant spritzes of grey primer. This makes it look very used (see the scene in GB1 when the boys fall into the street)
Image
Image

This is the area where the loom goes into the top of the sync-gen. It's a short length of PVC, with a washer secured to the underside. I took this and one of the black round rubber stoppers I used to make hose connectors, and with a single screw through them both, bolted it onto the sync-gen.

Placement of the powercell + injectors:
Image

Now, I had to make a little groove in this piece of cosmetic plating, to cover the bit of bracket that goes under it. This side faces down.
Image

Making the PPD, simple and plain:
Image
Image

More threaded insert action. This time, it's where the ribbon cable bracket goes. 2 of these, and I can easily remove the ribbon cable.
Image

The powercell, mounted. This white panel is styrene, and will soon have the window for lights.
Image

Here's the bottoms of the injector tubes. I went with brass fittings on these as well, 'cause I like the look of them. Also seen is the ribbon cable (Thanks, Chris H!) and the bracket I cut from aluminum.This has to be removed whenever you want to access the upper box.
Image

Yesterday I added a lot more of the hoses and cables, and it got pretty menacing-looking pretty quick. Oh, I have to mention-- I lost my HGA I made (it's somewhere in Chris's basement), but Dimitri gave me this one, which is removable by that one center screw. I added a big washer to it, and a label, and that was that.
Image

More hoses/cables, the PPD, the cosmetic plate beneath the booster assembly (with the dowel sticking forward) and the nifty cable clamp in action! (Still gotta either make or procure a booster frame.)
Image

And as ever, one parting shot for now.

Image

Let's see. What remains is:
  • Making the N-Filter, probably from a highly-puttied Pringles can
    Booster Frame
    Painting the back of the mobo
    Cutting the Powercell window and painting the access panel
    The metal end cap and rod on the Ion Arm (and I also need to add one last resistor on the side, haven't done that yet.)
    STICKERS, STICKERS, STICKERS
I'd also like to get just a little black rubber block, to put at the bottom of my pack, for when I set it on the ground. Gotta keep my eyes open for that.

Oh, right, before I forget:
I couldn't resist. Tried this bad boy on, with my new Long Island uniform.

Image

Image

Image

So yeah.

Later today, I'll be progressing more. I'll TRY to take more step-by-step pics, for those interested. I've been terrible about it these past few days. Stay tuned, and thank you as ever for your interest!
#275461
OCTOBER 27th part 2- ANOTHER UPDATE! HOME STRETCH!

So I was in the zone. I stripped down the pack to its' modular components, and traced the mobo onto a sheet of .080 aluminium, in order to cover up all those woodscrews.
Image

Next, I brought the line in about a half inch or so on all the sides. This's where I'd be cutting.
Image

The new motherboard backing, with only the holes needed to mount the frame, and the easy-access panel in the center, as well as the single screw that holds down the bottom portion of the upper box.
Image

Painting the raw MDF mobo, and priming the newly-cut aluminum mobo backing:
Image

While that was drying...

I cut the window for the powercell.
Image

Powercell window installed. I still need to add those front mounted rib areas, 'cause I know they wrap around to the front facet. I'll probably do that tomorrow-- I didn't feel like breathing sawdust tonight.
Image

Here's the installed aluminum flashing, after primer and flat black paint. Nice and clean, no more woodscrews.
Image

All that's there now is the 3 little buttonhead socket screws for easy access. It turned out just as I'd hoped it would, totally tidy, and functional.

Image


More to come! We're close on this one, I can feel it! :D
User avatar
By Mr.Spider
#275490
feels good to finally have one on your back doesnt it ; ) . great work !
#283332
HAPPY THANKSGIVING!

Hope y'all didn't eat too much. I know I didn't.

TURKEY DAY UPDATE

So I hadn't worked on my pack in a few weeks, and tonight I wasn't doing anything at all (I'm in the house alone, just doodling) so I figured I'd hook up some more goodies!
First off, a resin Booster Frame from Some_Guy-- THANKS, BOOTS. This has since been sanded, painted, and mounted. He also gave me a powercell window, I'm gonna have to cut a new front panel to fit it properly. The one I have will probably be for the interchangeable green one... I'm looking at you, Dimitri.) Also pictured is the little PC tower speaker which will be installed in my N-Filter.
Image

The N-Filter itself, made from a pair of pvc coupler fittings. Already cut to shape, ready to go.
Image
Image

To make room for the magnetic end of the little speaker, I had to cut a small corner of the cakepan for clearance. Also, to secure the N-Filter down, there's a small hole at the outer rim (below) for a single allen screw. It's held in place by a nut, and when it's all together, the N-Filter's very stable. No more N-Filter knockoff mishaps.
Image

Here's the PC tower speaker installed, and wiremesh glued into place.
Image
Image
Image

This wire will just sit there for now, until such time as light and sound is implemented.

Next I glued and epoxied the N-Filter into place, and screwed the one screw on at the rim. This thing ain't going anywhere now.
Image

A little paint:
Image
Image

Then one of the decals was applied. I'll make a red strip decal to add later.
Image

Another overview, with booster frame and N-Filter installed. That's exactly what was missing.
Image

There's only 4 major things left to do to this build-- the little post that sticks out of the top of the booster tube (I'll be using a dowel), the window for the powercell, the metal endcap for the ion arm... and as for the thrower, the green lever mechanism, trigger tip and banjos are still needed.

Thanks for reading, and as always... Stay tuned!
User avatar
By XxEctOxX
#283385
I got the ion arm cap end for u! As well as that last resistor on the ion arm! Hope 2 see u soon
#295460
UPDATE - HAPPY NEW YEAR!

So a few days ago, RGB-LI had a get-together for the start of the new year. It was my first time being over there in ages, and it was good to see the crew again. I took my pack, which was 98% complete, to show the gang, and Fernando/XxEctoxX gives me this awesome ion arm endcap!

Image

Image

THANK YOU, Fernando!

Since the last update, I'd scratch-built temporary Nycoil banjos from plastic square tubing and little brass threaded inserts. (I'll be replacing those with real ones in time, or at least with brass replicas.) Also scratch-built a trigger tip so the end of my thrower didn't look so naked.
Image

Image


N
ow here, I know everyone's like "your injector wires are wrong" but I like green, as you know. So, on the few outings I've been on, my hoses here would sometimes get snagged and pulled out. So here's what I did. I got some brass fittings (just like the ones coming from the tubes themselves) and fixed them to the bottom area. They're solid now.
Image


And finally, since I'd taken my pack over, it was its' first time "meeting" the other packs. Here's Chris's pack with mine, before I'd installed the Ion Arm cap.

BROTON PACKS.
Image

Image
More soon! Thanks for reading!
User avatar
By Nicholszz
#301421
I saw this before.
But WOO the end product looks great! Good job boss!
User avatar
By FeinDTacticS
#302271
Very very nice!!! I knew you would eventually have your own pack and all
#307332
This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

Sunday, March 5th UPDATE

What an eventful day yesterday was! But more importantly than any update I have, here's a far more wonderful update; I wanted to say congrats to Dimitri/Ectoman_913, who just had the addition of his second son yesterday, at 9 lbs 9 oz.! Total congratulations, Dimitri!

As for me, all I had delivered yesterday was my proton pack and thrower lights. :walterpeck:

Image

Just kidding. I'd been waiting on these! Since the Boston St. Patrick's Day parade is right around the corner, I've been trying to make sure I'm as prepared as I can be, and after a lot of looking around, I decided on the Jupiter Light combo kit.
Image

So I figured the first thing I'd do is the easy part, which was handling the pack lights. I knew upon reading the dimensions of the powercell board online that I'd have to mod my powercell's insides, but wasn't sure how much. When it arrived, it became clear that I'd just have to rotary out two channels for the board to slide down into, as the board is too tall on its' own to fit.
Image

After the pair of grooves were sanded out, the pack light powercell board fits nice and simple, and easy to remove, should I need to. It's off center, but believe me, when the lights are on, it doesn't matter.
Image
Image

Now keep something in mind. I don't know if I'll do this in time for the parade on the 20th, but this kit has a little potentiometer on it, which is great, because speed of the light's oscillation can be controlled. The problem is, it's on the board, which is now buried in my pack.

I thought ahead, though.

Remember this?
Image
Image

That rear knob? That's a speed potentiometer, and I intend to see if I can't wire that from the thrower, all the way to the pack, to this light kit, so the pack lights' speed can be adjusted from the thrower. I picked up a soldering iron and some odds and ends yesterday at the local Radio Shack. Wish me luck.

Anyhow, on to the cyclotron lights.

This was pretty simple stuff. Using the reflectors from the dollar store flashlights, I lopped off the ends to make room for these nice little red led clusters on this kit.
Image
Image

The light clusters were temporarily taped down, and then installed back into the cyclotron assembly, one by one, while the lights were still on, so I could properly arrange them in sequence. (I've got mine running counter-clockwise.)
Image

Now let me tell you, with the cyclo back on, and the lights going, it REALLY came to life.
Image

Dusted it back off ,reinstalled the top of the pack, and set it up for a snapshot... which didn't do it justice, so I took video as well.
Image



L
ater today or tomorrow I'm gonna try to tackle the thrower light installation, which isn't gonna be an easy task... but nothing worthwhile is. Besides, it's a blast. Stay tuned, and thank you for readin'!
#307516
The Roach On Twelve wrote:I love it!

I love the potentiometer.
Thanks, Sam-- here it is installed! SPEED CONTROL ON THE THROWER, BITCHES!



Image

T
hese three wires go directly to the Pack's Powercell board, and replace the three contacts that once held its' tiny blue onboard potentiometer.
Image

More updates to come!
#308073
Very rockin'! I like how you made it all your own (alternative hoses, green zip ties) All VERY cool!!! Keep doin' what you do!!! (I'm thinkin about doin' the Jupiter Electronics lights, can you recommend them???)
#308108
Lewis Tully wrote:Very rockin'! I like how you made it all your own (alternative hoses, green zip ties) All VERY cool!!! Keep doin' what you do!!! (I'm thinkin about doin' the Jupiter Electronics lights, can you recommend them???)
I can indeed recommend the Jupiter Kit. Granted, the Thrower kit doesn't have ALL the lights it needs (it's missing two lights) but you can easily splice the missing two in there. I also love the fact that there are speed controls right on board both kits, and with a little soldering, you can wire 'em up to be controlled elsewhere. A solid kit.
#308525
UPDATE - March 11, 2011

Last update before the parade in Boston!

Stayed up last night til 3am wirin' up this thrower... and let me say that was a challenge. The Jupiter thrower kit is easy to work with, but is missing several lights, however it's very simple to add more. In this case, the forward gunbox white cap light (beneath the silver knob) and the red cap light (which I'll be adding later).

Anyway, one more video! The thrower only needs the barrel extension mech installed, and sound, and then it's all over!


I'll catch you on the flip side, after the parade!
#405466
Ok, it's been a LONG TIME since I updated this thread. During that time I've built another pack for a friend, fried my own thrower kit, gotten a new one (this time with custom requested amber bargraph lights, 2 additional lights, and external potentiometer wire), AND made myself a little wall mount. Yeah, I've been busy.

But as of tonight, I have completely rewired my pack from top to bottom with this awesome 4-strand intercom wire, really made things a lot cleaner inside.

Image

I've got ALL my speakers finally wired up and no more running on 26 AA's. Made the switch to one of the CCTV Li-Ion batteries on eBay, and man, this makes things easier. The Crix sound kit + preamp + amp and external volume is working JUST as I imagined it, and the external line-in is functional too! I can pipe in my mp3 player, walkman, you name it. That thing is LOUD. More internal photos and video with completed sound demo to come. Just wanted to update this somewhat, 'cause it's been a bit.

My proton pack's never been more complete.

Image
#406039
FINAL UPDATE!

Now that everything is all installed and wired... Let's look under the proverbial hood, shall we? Off with the removable parts:
Image

A shot of the two 3-way subs, as well as the 8-watt amp. I opted out of the 20 watt amp I'd had before... next time, baby.
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Audio input. 3.5mm jack. Pipe your sound in from your media player with this!
Image

Battery placement, velcrostrapped to the ALICE frame. Gone are the days of 26 AA batteries. Now it's all about the 12 volt Li-Ion battery packs.
Image

New Jupiter Thrower Kit, to replace my old one which I accidentally fried. This one is the custom amber bargraph, 2 additional LEDs, and externally-wired potentiometer.
Image
Image

Image
Image

The sound installed, I did a little test video, and the camera isn't picking it up very well. I'll take another one soon, but check it! Light and Sound, with speed AND volume control!


And there you have it. It's been a long time coming, but it's finally completed. My Proton Pack, mark I. What a long, strange, fun trip it's been.
Image
#4801541
How did you do the heat shrinking?

Hey guys I've been doing some updating and adding […]

Ghostbusters Day 2024

Even if Frozen Empire somehow made a billion dol[…]

To repost what I said in the other thread: I don'[…]

GBFANS Ghostlabs light kit

Hey everybody, this is my first post so let me kno[…]