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#271223
I bought one of AJ's stunt trap kits for two reasons, 1. I was curious to see what a CNC routered trap kit would look like and how it would go together and 2. I was thinking I would build it, do a tutorial and then auction the finished trap off with the proceeds going to Gilda's Club (our franchises GB charity)

So here goes!

Unpacked the contents of the box, here's what all the components look like
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There are 20 pieces to this raw kit, if you are missing any components you will need to contact the kit supplier before you proceed. Additional parts needed to complete the base assembly are:

1. Suitable handle material (resin cast, wood dowel or PVC pipe) the choice on what to use is up to the buyer.I used a resin piece as thats what i had on hand. Dimensions: 3/4" diameter by 5.375" long
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2. Blocks for mounting your wheel assembly, I cut two pieces of 1/2" square poplar wood to 2.25" long
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You will want to drill and tap for the type of axles you will be using to mount your wheels
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I drilled 7/32" holes and tapped for the 1/4" bolts I used as axles, you will need to drill/ tap accordingly.

You are going to need some basic tools to assemble your trap: Sandpaper (in various grits), drill and drill bits, assorted threaded taps, wood glue , clamps, squared edge file. These are for basic assembly, we will get into finishing later on.

Step 1:
Dry fit all of the parts BEFORE doing any glueing and clamping. you will want to ensure everthing fits together properly and do any needed sanding or filing now.
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Last edited by irricanian on February 6th, 2013, 5:31 pm, edited 5 times in total.
bworld liked this
#271229
Step 2:

Assemble the wheel section
Once you have your two axle supports cut to 2.25" and you have drilled and tapped them accordingly you will want to test fit the wheels to ensure there is ample clearance in the slots. Once you are happy with that you can glue them in place and clamp them. You will install the wheels on final assembly.
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You can now put this aside until later in the assembly

Step 3:

Assemble the trap body.

The trap handles vertical post fits into the grove in the rear wall of the cartridge, glue the rear wall in place then insert the vertical post

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Once you have this in place you can then attach the side walls
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Glue ,clamp and let dry overnight

Step 4:

Assemble the rear battery box.
Since you already test fitted your parts all you need to do is glue and stack and then clamp in place
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Let your glue dry overnite before proceeding

If you plan on putting electronics into your trap you will want to bolt the battery box lid on instead of glueing it, you can use 5 - #4 or #6 button head Allen bolts for this (your choice), you may also want to drill the holes for a switch and light in the lid.
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Builders tip:Place a scrap piece of wood behind when drilling so the MDF doesn't splinter. You will get a much better result.

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Step 5:

Inner cartridge assembly.

Glue the two inner walls in place
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and then the 3 pieces of the front indicator, making sure the parts all sit evenly on all sides.

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You can also glue the gun ears in place ( if adding #6 or #8 bolts (your choice) to the outside of the ears you may want to drill and tap them first for installation of the bolts after painting)
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Step 6:

Mount the handle.
I recommend using a #10 x 1 1/4" long Allen bolt to mount the handle.You will want to drill a thru hole in the handle (13/64") and drill and tap for a #10 bolt in your vertical post. (5/32" drill for #10 tap) Builders Note: Since you are drilling and tapping into the end grain of the MDF be sure you pre-drill the hole to a depth slightly more than you need, MDF splits very easily so be careful when putting in the bolt.

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Step 7:

Remember safety when dealing with dust and paint fumes, wear the proper PPE

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Prep for paint.
At this point, once all your glue is dry you will want to do your prep work for painting. Since MDF is pourous you will need to seal it, this can be done in a number of ways.
1. Brush wood glue onto all exposed edges
2. Use wood filler on all exposed edges
3. Shellac or other clear sealer

Once you have sanded the wood smooth and sealed it you can go onto priming and then painting. You may need several coats to get good coverage and may also require sanding with finer sandpaper in between coats before you put your finish coat on. Plan ahead for the result you want to acheive.

Once your parts are all painted you can move onto installing your accessories, here's what you will need:

Cosmetic plating (aluminum or painted styrene)
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Socket cap Allen bolts for mounting plating, resistor, vector plate
TBA

Vector plate (resin or metal)
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Cal-R resistor
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Side rods ( wood dowel or metal) 1/2" x 3" long
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Foster 22-2 coupler
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Light bezel
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Switch
A SPST or DPDT toggle switch to control your lights

Trap knobs
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V-hook
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Wheels
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Decals

Finished trap, Dec. 8th

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Last edited by irricanian on December 19th, 2010, 12:50 pm, edited 10 times in total.
alphabeta001 liked this
#272244
Leave it to the professional to show us how to do it right.

Got my kit yesterday and dry fitted it last night.

I will start glueing tonight.

Cheers

Sebastian
#286866
2nd post updated Dec 8th

Finished trap

Overall the kit went together quite easily, the only issues to note were the problems with drilling and tapping into the grain of the MDF where splitting can easily occur. Places to note: square post where round handle mounts, face of front indicator where cosmetic plate mounts to. Due to the nature of MDF the end grain is the weakest point and you need to take extra precautions when drilling and tapping.

For this build I used:
  • - painted styrene cosmetic plating
    - real aluminum side rods and Cal-R resistor
    - resin cast vector plate and trap knobs
    - real Allen bolt hardware used throughout
    - real roller bearing wheels
    - real Foster brass 22-2 coupler
    - real flat profile toggle switch and LED bezel
I did replace the rear battery cover with a thinner styrene one, the MDF one made for difficult installation of the switch and the tolerances were a bit tight once painted. Either method can be used with good results.

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#287019
A few words of advice:

The rear box cover (with the switch and indicator) and small metal plates should use size #4 screws instead of the size #6 you recommend.

The ears and large metal plates should have #6 instead of #8, as well.

Aside from that minor nitpick, the kit turned out pretty
#290148
Crix wrote:A few words of advice:

The rear box cover (with the switch and indicator) and small metal plates should use size #4 screws instead of the size #6 you recommend.

The ears and large metal plates should have #6 instead of #8, as well.

Aside from that minor nitpick, the kit turned out pretty
Thanks, I added that info into the tutorial.

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