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By Jairus
#421486
Actually very few people are using the incandescent bulbs as LEDs are brighter, last longer, and are cheaper. I have seen the 6V/40ma bulbs on Mouser with the cheapest around .30 per bulb (If you are going for the authentic movie feel and look). The schematic on page 5 is geared toward LEDs as opposed to page 1 that is geared toward the incandescent bulbs.
Thanks for the suggestion; I didn't even think to check Mouser. They no longer stock the E-5 or midget screw bases anymore either, but they do at least sell a wire terminal 6v/40mA bulb.

Going for the accurate movie feel and look is indeed my intention. I've soldered light circuits with LEDs for each of my packs in the past, but like you said, they're very bright (almost too bright, in my opinion). LEDs are also just too focused to look good, even with wide angle or jumbo LEDs. They're more energy efficient and longer lasting, but with 12v rechargeable batteries as cheap as they are and at only 30 cents a bulb, I think it's a fair tradeoff.
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By Fizzgig
#431196
I finally got the lights breadboarded and piping away. What I did find that helped me out was to have a highlighter and higlight the connection that I just made on the schematic. Also if you are noticing that an LED stay's on all the time that is usually an indication that your Ground is not on the right pin of the transistor. If you are finding that your LED blinks very faintly you probably have your input coming out of the 4015 in the wrong pin of the transistor.

This is what I found out when I was going through and trouble shooting the LEDs as I went through.

The schematic works folks! You just have to be a little patient in order to get it to work.

Also, you can download DipTrace to help you create a PCB. I was able to get the Schematic on a PCB without the need of extra jumper wires needing to be soldered. I still have yet to etch and solder the board, but I will try to get to it soon. :cool:
User avatar
By jackdoud
#432543
i need help im only 15 years old and i am trying to get the stuff to make a pack light kit for the cylotron and tomorow do you want me to tell you which pc board i have?
The what now? Slow down and explain your question in full sentences.
User avatar
By jackdoud
#432569
Those still aren't full sentences. The complete circuit is both the powercell and the cyclotron. It's possible to just make the cyclotron lights with the circuit. What problem are you having with purchasing the parts?
By shottyno
#433879
Hello guys how are you??I'm Shottyno from Italy!!!And I need your help :walterpeck:
I'm trying to realize proton pack lights, I read jackdoud's schematic and I bought all parts. I just want to ask if someone has the PCB footprint, I use FidoCAD to make PCB projects, but this schematic has so many connections that i'm going crazy T__T
I'm going to use floppy drive cable to connect main plate with 15 led's plate, i'm doing it wrong?? (I use it because it is a very common cable to find) I will need just 17 pins, right? one for +9v, one for ground and other 15 for leds.

Thank you all for help guys!!! :D :D
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By jackdoud
#433895
I will need just 17 pins, right? one for +9v, one for ground and other 15 for leds.
It depends on how you design the board. If you put all the IC chips on one board and the LEDs on another you only need 16 pins, 15 for the LEDs and one for power.
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By Jordin
#435287
I'm going to try and make my own PCB with the toner method using bug stompers Lightboard V1 pdf.
I know I have to mirror it when I print it but does anyone know what the dimensions of the board should be?
I'm worried after I print and transfer the board it might be too small for the components or to large.
Does anyone have a circuit board schematic that is pre-mirrored and has any sort of size reference?
User avatar
By Fizzgig
#435341
Usually if you are using a PCB routing program it will print all the items with the right dimensions automatically provided you chose the right footprints. Since there are DIPs (4015 and 4017 chips) that you will populate on the board, my advice would be to get a print out of the PCB that you created and then place a chip on top of the printout to see if it fits. You can pretty much dry fit all of your components and if you need to make adjustments you will know ahead of time before actually etching a board.

Also, remember with the chips you need to slightly bend the pins in when you pull them out of the tube as the manufacturing process leaves these pins at a slight angle. Take the chip and put it on it's side on a table and GENTLY bend the body of the chip so it's perpendicular to the table. A little will do!

Good luck.
User avatar
By Jordin
#435357
Usually if you are using a PCB routing program it will print all the items with the right dimensions automatically provided you chose the right footprints. Since there are DIPs (4015 and 4017 chips) that you will populate on the board, my advice would be to get a print out of the PCB that you created and then place a chip on top of the printout to see if it fits. You can pretty much dry fit all of your components and if you need to make adjustments you will know ahead of time before actually etching a board.
Yep that was my plan. I just figured I'd ask anyways.

Thanks though.
By bats
#456495
I just wanted to say thanks to you guys, the schematics have been very helpful.

I am currently working on the wand lights, and using Jack Doud's circuit I have a functioning bargraph. But I do not understand the purpose of linking the 2N3906 PNP transistor's collector to the signal line (pin 5) of the LM3914N chips and the positive side of the grill lights. Through the transistor you are supplying battery voltage; if you add a constant voltage to the signal line, you make the bargraph stay on. Having the Base switched directly to ground results in the board turning off/ shorting out. I don't know which, the board recovers with no blue smoke escaping. Using a 1K resistor between the switch and the ground solved that problem. I also noticed on the schematic the 22k resistor on pin 13 of the 556 timer should be linked to VCC not ground. The WhiteBlinker light won't blink with it connected to ground.

Again thanks for the help and the schmatics.
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By Fizzgig
#456543
From what I have read and remember previously the lights schematic for the neutrona wand was incomplete, which is probably why you are running into problems. As far as I know only the schematic for the pack seems to be complete. The wand is still in limbo. Currently, I am slowly tinkering around with programming my own wand lights using a PIC18F2221. I have the majority of it breadboarded and the majority of the code compiled, but I haven't had much time to troubleshoot and play around with it.
User avatar
By ldlaughlin
#456595
I am going to start experimenting with an Arduino for a wand.

I used this circuit for the pack lights and it works great!

I am determined to find a way to make a set of wand accurate or close to accurate lights!

I will post my progress once I get started!
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By jackdoud
#456651
But I do not understand the purpose of linking the 2N3906 PNP transistor's collector to the signal line (pin 5) of the LM3914N chips and the positive side of the grill lights. Through the transistor you are supplying battery voltage; if you add a constant voltage to the signal line, you make the bargraph stay on.
That's intentional. The bargraph will bounce up and down until you flip the activate switch which turns on the vent light and makes the bargraph go full. It's what I consider to be the accurate functionality of the bargraph in the movie.
By abaka
#456684
But I do not understand the purpose of linking the 2N3906 PNP transistor's collector to the signal line (pin 5) of the LM3914N chips and the positive side of the grill lights. Through the transistor you are supplying battery voltage; if you add a constant voltage to the signal line, you make the bargraph stay on.
That's intentional. The bargraph will bounce up and down until you flip the activate switch which turns on the vent light and makes the bargraph go full. It's what I consider to be the accurate functionality of the bargraph in the movie.
This has always been my thinking towards the gun light.
By bats
#457445
Thanks for the help guys and clearing things up. Two questions. Where is the most updated version of this schematic? And two: Are the Grill lights supposed to blink when the "activate" switch is not pressed? When I connect the LEDs to the signal input, it causes the bar graph display to only go halfway. I put in a diode for now between the grill lights and the pin 5 input of the LM3914Ns. This returned the bargraph to normal function.
By Gingerbarf
#469180
HI everyone,
I'm hoping somebody can help me!
Yesterday I finally finished wiring this all together and switched it on, It all lit up beautifully, but thats it! it just lights up, no flashing in sequence or anything just 14 bright blue LED's.
I've gone through this thread and done the troubleshooting that Jackdoud suggested to Zappa1971 on page 5 and now have it wired exactly as he explained but still just bright lights.
Any suggestions as to my next step will be greatly received as I was so pleased with myself that i'd actually managed to get the lights on i'm now not so smug!!
Martin
PS I've not wired the Cycletron lights to the pins 2,3,4,7 on the 4017 yet, but didn't think this would have an affect on the powercell lights as the other pins on the 4017 are wired up as the diagram.
Also I've tried this with the 3 capacitors as listed in the OP diagram and with just the 1 capacitor used in Jackdoud's diagram, but same results.
I'm going to buy a breadboard in the morning and build a new set on that. At least that way it's easy to amend any connections rather than fiddling around with the soldered parts as I am now.
By Gingerbarf
#469186
As I'm getting a breadboard tomorrow, can I set up the 555 timer straight to 1 LED without the 4015's to check the 555 is running right? Then I can work out where to look for a fault on my soldered board?
I've not worked out how to post pictures yet :-)
By Gingerbarf
#469245
I've disconnected pin 3 on the 555 to the 4015 & wired to a single LED this flashes as it should so now I'll look at the other wiring. I just assumed that as they weren't flashing the fault was with my setup of the 555. Amazing the stress we put ourselves through, but it'll be worth it when I've got the best costume at any party. :-)
By Gingerbarf
#469302
I have pins 8 on both 4015's and pins 8,10,13,15 on the 4017 going to ground. This is my first go at this sort of thing for over 15 years since school, but should i have power going direct to the LEDs from the battery or just from pins 16 on the 4015's? as when i have it direct from battery they all light up very bright, but when it's just from pins 16 they light up very dim for about 3 seconds then go off!! is wiring them direct to battery bypassing all the chips and creating just lights?
Still trying to post pics but I've tried typing in the file location and tried dragging the image over but nothing seems to work, can i only put images up that have a web link?
User avatar
By jackdoud
#469316
You should have power going from the battery to pin 16 of the chips and to the anodes of the LEDs. The way this circuit works is the chips successively create a ground channel for the LEDs which allows current to flow and turns them on.

If your transistors aren't hooked up correctly then it's likely that the LEDs are being connected directly to ground which will make them be lit constantly.

To post pictures you have to use the Img tag on the forum and use a url to a hosted image. If you don't have an image hosting account I'd recommend Photobucket.
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