Have a guide or tutorial? Post it up!
By Gingerbarf
Here's a link to my lights set up.
http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/Gingerb ... 15368c.jpg
A link to my original wiring of the transistors,
http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/Gingerb ... 0vywe5.jpg
A link to my amended wiring of the transistors.
http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/Gingerb ... 4ee04c.jpg
I have 10kohm resistors between the 4015's and transistor and 470ohm between transistor and LED's.
User avatar
By jackdoud
Could you take a closer shot of the top of your circuit board so I could see the paths you drew? You're sure the 4015's are connected correctly on the right pins? You know that pin counts go down the left side and up the right?
By Gingerbarf
Well just been looking at it again and noticed that whilst re-working the transistors a wire from 555 to pot had come loose, re-connected this and the lights come on in sequence but then stay on?

I checked the following as I noticed Magnus had this issue too.
I have reset pins on 4015(B) pin 2 connected to 14, pin 14 then to pin 6. Pin 6 is then connected to pin 14 on 4015(A) pin 14 then connects to pin 6.
I also have pin 9 on 4015(A) connected to pin 1, pin 1 then connects to pin 9 on 4015(B) pin 9 then connects to pin 1.

Here's my pin setup incase the picture is not clear enough.
4015A (left hand)
pin 1 - connected to pins 9 on both 4015's
pin 2 - connected to LED 8
Pin 3 - connected to LED 3
pin 4 - connected to LED 2
pin 5 - connected to LED 1
pin 6 - connected to pin 14
pin 7 - connected to 10k ohm resistor than connects to power
pin 8 - connected to ground via transistor ground cable
pin 9 - connected to pin 3 from 555 plus linked to pin 1 as above
pin 10 - connected to pin 15
pin 11 - connected to LED 7
pin 12 - connected to LED 6
pin 13 - connected to LED 5
pin 14 - connected to pin 6 on 4015B(right hand) plus pin 6 as above
pin 15 - connected to LED 8, plus pin 10 as above
pin 16 - connected to power

4015B (right hand)
pin 1 - connected to pin 9
pin 2 - connected to pin 14
pin 3 - connected to LED 11
pin 4 - connected to LED 10
pin 5 - connected to LED 9
pin 6 - connected to pins 14 on both 4015's
pin 7 connected to LED 8 like pin 2 on 4015A
pin 8 - connected to ground via transistor ground cable
pin 9 - connected to pins 1 on both 4015's
pin 10 - connected to pin 15
pin 11 - is clear
pin 12 - connected to LED 14
pin 13 - connected to LED 13
pin 14 - connected to pins 2 & 6 plus to pin 14 on the 4017
pin 15 - connected to LED 12 plus pin 10 as above
pin 16 is to power.
By Gingerbarf
Here's a closer pic of 4015b.
http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/Gingerb ... 2cggox.jpg
The Greg cable is my reset cable.
Yellow connects to resistors for LED's
Orange is my link from 10-15 then to LED 12
Pink is between 1-9 then 1 on other 4015
Red = power
Black = ground
Once again thank you for your help Jack. I really appreciate it.
User avatar
By jackdoud
If they lit in sequence but stayed on then the 4015's and 555 are working correctly, you just have to make sure pin 2 of B is connected to 6 and 14 of both 4015's. That's the signal that resets the chips.

By Gingerbarf
Again Thanks Jackdoud!
I completely disconnected all the reset pins and have started again with them all & now I have a set of flashing blue lights all in sequence.
So today's lesson learnt is don't trust my own soldering as obviously something wasn't quite right :-)
By warhead2
Here is my parts list from Futurlec.com, just a tip about Futurlec if your in a hurry do not order from them they ship from China so it can be 1 month to get your parts. Ok now the parts list

1 74HC4017 - 74HC4017 - Decade Counter/Divider 0.35 0.35
19 BC337 - BC337 NPN General Purpose Transistor 0.07 1.33
1 C001U50E - 1uF 50V Radial Electrolytic Capacitor 0.05 0.05
1 C010U16E - 10uF 16V Radial Electrolytic Capacitor 0.05 0.05
1 C010UC - 0.01uF 50V Ceramic Capacitors 0.05 0.05
2 CD4015 - CD4015 Dual 4-stage Static Shift Register 0.30 0.6

3 ICS16 - 16 Pin IC Socket 0.07
(this is for 4017 decade timer/and 2 Static Shift Register)

1 ICS8 8 Pin IC Socket 0.04
(this is for the 555 timer)

1 NE555 - LM555/NE555 Timer 0.25
2 R010K14W - 10kohm 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor 0.10
(need 19 / you get 10 for 0.10)

1 R047K14W - 47kohm 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor 0.10
1 TRIM50K - 50K 1/2W Min. Horizontal Pot 0.15
2 R470R14W - 470ohm 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor 0.10
(need 16 / you get 10 for 0.10)

1 JUMPERKIT Breadboard Jumper Kit 4.90
2 BREADBRD Breadboard 5.90

Total 24.28

i didn't order the LED's because i already have some,
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By drbig79
Hi all, please forgive my newbish question, but as long as each LED has its own resistor can I add more LEDs to each cyclotron light, like say four or five instead of one?
User avatar
By jackdoud
Hi all, please forgive my newbish question, but as long as each LED has its own resistor can I add more LEDs to each cyclotron light, like say four or five instead of one?
You could probably add a couple but eventually you'd start to overload power handling of the transistor. You could add multiple transistors for each cyclotron light and run them in parallel for each cyclotron signal line to get around that issue.
By gbcody
hello im a fellow west Virginia ghost buster and im trying to make my own light kit for my proton pack instead of buying a kit already made does any one have a diagram or reference pictures of there attempts to make the light kit if so please pm me gbcody
User avatar
By Turbomini73
So I have all of this setup according to jacdoud's diagram but I can't seem to control the speed. I used the 50k pot like it called for and after I adjust it down the lights stop working. Also after a couple of cycles the light speed slows down then stops completly has anyone had this issue?
By jozzas
Thatnks for the schematics. Had it all working for the bars last night, soldered up the 4017 cyclotron part this morning, and now I get 2 of the bar LEDs remaining on and the rest flash rapidly together. Think I have a short somewhere? No idea how to troubleshoot this. I've double checked all connections and reflowed a bunch of joints and made sure nothing is bridged.... :(
By jozzas
Got it, it my issue coincided with me adding a switch and longer lead-ins from the batteries... needed a capacitor between positive and negative to smooth things out as suggested. Spent about 6 hours pulling my hair out before I figured it out. There was nothing wrong with anything I probed, would have needed an oscilloscope to figure it out if it weren't for the suggestions on here. Got the cyclotron lights hooked up now too! :)
By Dzimm
Ive been attempting to build the thrower circuit Jackdoud posted a few years back and am having trouble. I have got the white blinker flashing by running it and the pin 13 resistor to vcc instead of ground. As soon as power is cycled on, the bar graph will light like it's supposed to but then stay lit, even with a diode between pin 5 and the transistor or completely eleminating that connection. I've also started to have the board die after about a minute of running, all but a couple random lights in the bar shut off and the white blinker goes out. I have to wait a few minutes before turning it back on or it will go into the same state, almost like it's overheated.

Has anyone got this circuit to work and can anyone help me figure this out? I've redone the wiring multiple times and am pulling my hair out trying everything I can think of to get it to work.
By Dzimm
Well I finally got the thrower circuit to light and function like its supposed to, turns out I had a ground in the wrong spot.

The only issue I'm running into with it now is after it runs for a few minutes, the lights start to dim and the bar starts to light out of sequence, then just freezes with some lights on and some off. The white flasher just dims itself until it turns off.

I'm using good batteries so I'm not sure what's causing it. Any ideas?
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