Have a guide or tutorial? Post it up!
#4792508
If you look at my picture a couple of posts up, you will see where I have a female connector spliced into two sets of wires. The battery plugs in to the female pigtail connector, which is tied in to a black and red wire that goes to the light board and a black and red wire that goes to the amp kit. I then run the connection out to the backside of my pack and my battery is Velcro'd on the outside so that I can charge it and turn it on without having to take the shell on and off.

I am sure there are many other ways of doing it and I am not saying by any way that this is the best way, but it works pretty well for me.
#4792661
Having some issues with providing power to the light kit. The sound kit works perfectly. From my 12v rechargeable battery, I split it to the amp and to the light kit (blue screw terminal) with no luck. Am I going through the right terminal? And should the light kit take the 12v?
#4792916
Crix,

Are you going to do an updated set of instructions? The light boards I have don't really look like what's in this thread so far. I thought I could translate things over, but I'm starting to worry about wiring something wrong and burning out the whole kit.
YHSCraig liked this
#4792942
freudiandave wrote:Crix,

Are you going to do an updated set of instructions? The light boards I have don't really look like what's in this thread so far. I thought I could translate things over, but I'm starting to worry about wiring something wrong and burning out the whole kit.
This. Trying to set up the lights & sound when you're not tech savvy can be extremely intimidating. I'm having problems as well figuring out what goes where and my dad is helping me and he's an electronic technician and we're still scratching our heads. He was also asking why do you use such thin wire with your switches. You have to split the wires it's like working with hair.

A tutorial video that walks you step-by-step would be stellar.
#4792944
xxbrankxx wrote:
freudiandave wrote:Crix,

Are you going to do an updated set of instructions? The light boards I have don't really look like what's in this thread so far. I thought I could translate things over, but I'm starting to worry about wiring something wrong and burning out the whole kit.
This. Trying to set up the lights & sound when you're not tech savvy can be extremely intimidating. I'm having problems as well figuring out what goes where and my dad is helping me and he's an electronic technician and we're still scratching our heads. He was also asking why do you use such thin wire with your switches. You have to split the wires it's like working with hair.

A tutorial video that walks you step-by-step would be stellar.
Maybe a video is over kill. I was just hoping for an updated picture so I'm not guessing at some of the connections.
#4793039
Does anyone with the newer light boards have this all figured out? I can't figure out the power line between the two terminals. Which blue terminals and which wire is used to connect power between the two? I have battery plugged into the pack board and it's powering it up. I am attempting to use wire F from the diagram to connect to the blue terminals on the wand light board but I am getting nothing.
#4793097
CraigTHEOWL1 wrote:Does anyone with the newer light boards have this all figured out? I can't figure out the power line between the two terminals. Which blue terminals and which wire is used to connect power between the two? I have battery plugged into the pack board and it's powering it up. I am attempting to use wire F from the diagram to connect to the blue terminals on the wand light board but I am getting nothing.

I'm having the same issues here. Also i don't trust the smaller gauge wire, too thin and fragile. I tried different combinations between the blue power terminals and the "from wand lights" terminal on the pack lights using the "F cable", per the instructions. I'm confused why the wand board power terminal says "9v". My buddy connected a 9v to that terminal with no reaction. Need answers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#4800803
Clark HD wrote:Quick question about the Blue battery and charging. Should here be a kill switch installed hit, before plugging the battery in to charge? I'm sure I've read this somewhere.

I had to put a kill switch between the amp and the battery in order to charge the battery.
#4800918
freudiandave wrote:Crix,

Are you going to do an updated set of instructions? The light boards I have don't really look like what's in this thread so far. I thought I could translate things over, but I'm starting to worry about wiring something wrong and burning out the whole kit.
The 'new' kit is just the 'old' kit with some holes on the boards pushed closer together so I can use the new style screw terminal blocks. The only other change involved 'flipping' the polarity of two LED connections, but the terminals are color coded to make things as simple as possible.
brand14mcc wrote: I'm having the same issues here. Also i don't trust the smaller gauge wire, too thin and fragile. I tried different combinations between the blue power terminals and the "from wand lights" terminal on the pack lights using the "F cable", per the instructions. I'm confused why the wand board power terminal says "9v". My buddy connected a 9v to that terminal with no reaction. Need answers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The thin wires were chosen for their superior flexibility, so they'll far outlast larger wires being bent back and forth in the split loom. The wires are technically meant for headphones, I believe, so they'll really take a punishing without any negative effects. A few seconds under a lighter will remove the shielding on the ends of any spots you need to cut, and then after a good twist, just fold it back on itself to thicken it up enough for a solid physical connection in the screw terminals. If you want to go really overkill, just tin the ends with a bit of solder, and after they're screwed into place, add a dot of hot glue to the outside of the screw terminal.

To get the kit to activate, you need to apply both power, and the on/off switch.


To everyone: Would a set of instructions similar to the sound kit instructions on page 1 be more helpful, or would something different be more preferable?
#4802851
If you could do a detailed set of instructions going over step-by-step that would great. Or better yet, an in depth-video. Just something we can follow. I still have my kit that I ordered from you sitting in the box cause I'm completely lost on how to wire this all up. I look at my proton pack and would love to have the lights & sound installed but this is all too confusing and overwhelming. We need detailed instructions, please. Thank you so very much.
#4807059
Hey there. I've been having a great time putting my kit together, but one thing is bothering me about it... Is there a way to cut the theme song off? The switch has a 3-connector, but the diagram only has spots for 2 of them. Can the white connector be attached somewhere to be able to turn off the song?
#4807065
Will you offer any support for the sound board reprogrammer GBFans just released?
I bought one and plugged your board into it and I either fried the board or wiped it clean.
I was never able to get the thing to connect to my computer.
User avatar
By Crix
#4810376
thejoker80 wrote:Heavy props is not replying to my questions..... does anyone have another contact for him.
You've been sending me a lot of PMs over the last 24 hours, and I haven't been home to get a reply sent, sorry if you're feeling ignored, it's definitely not my intention. I'm working on going through my backlog of PMs from the last day or so, so expect a response soon.
LandoSystem wrote:Yeah I sent a question / possible order and he read the PM but never sent a response. He's also on Facebook under Heavy Props.
I'll have to double check yours, as well.
xxbrankxx wrote:I also need assistance but I never hear back from him. Does anyone have any clear step by step instructions? The photos on the thread are different from what he sent. I was sent the newer version.
There seems to be a bit of confusion with my 'new' version of the kit. There's actually not any real difference between the new and the old, except the screw terminals are much, much easier to use. The layout of the connections is actually identical, only a few connections had their positive/negative reversed, for better consistency. I had hoped the color coded LEDs and connectors would help alleviate some of the confusion, but I'm working on another set of images to accompany the new version. Hopefully that further irons things out. In the meantime, the current tutorial should still be very serviceable.
#4810387
Well, I finished with the wiring and started the power up, but only the sound was working on my kit. I double checked and the wiring looks to be going to the right locations so I'm stumped. I guess my question would be: could the wiring be put into the kit one at a time (or or in some piecemeal fashion) so as to greatly narrow down and isolate a failure point somewhere along the line?

One other thing, and this has to do with the wiring itself. We know it's super thin, and I thought it best to "tin" the ends. But there is the matter of the shielding around each. It was recommended to use a lighter for a couple of seconds to remove it. I tried that, but it seems to darken the wiring with what is probably carbon deposits as the shielding burns off, and I'm not sure that this is preventing he establishing of a clean connection at the terminals.
#4810412
Good morning! Newbie to the group here.

I've completed the wiring of all the circuit boards with the power brick, amp, and speaker, flipped the switch, and have the sound working great. However, the lights aren't coming on at all. I checked and double-checked the routing of the wiring, polarity, etc., and all seems to check out. I'd like to find out if there is some way to troubleshoot this and narrow down where the possible fault might be (i.e. - do this set of wiring to confirm that the wand lights come on, then do this set of wiring to confirm that the cyclotron lights come on). Or is this a set where if there is one fault somewhere, then no lights come on? Just looking for advice.

Another comment, and that is that I see how the wiring is super thin, and removing the shielding is challenging as I want to at least "tin" the ends before proceeding with assembly. It was mentioned that using a flame for a few seconds can be helpful in removing the shielding, but the end result for me is copper wiring that is covered in black residue from the burn off, and I don't know if this is contributing to not having a solid connection and if this was due to poor technique on my part.

Overall, I'm curious as to what I might be doing wrong as I'll bet I'm right on the edge of getting this to work and yelling "eureka!" :-)

(Apologies for the double posting....it was a late Friday night).
#4810669
Hello Everybody,

I just finished hooking up this kit to test it and it all works beautifully. So that I didn't have to comb back over forums years from now I drew up a schematic in autocad with pictures of what I believe to be the new boards. I have to post this in this forum since I am too new of a member to be able to PM you or to post the .pdf attachment here. If you would like for me to send it to you PM me and I will be happy to give it to you. I am very impressed by this kit. One quick question though, Is there a way to adjust the volume of the firing momentary switches, release position sound?

Thanks
#4811571
Hello all,

Well, since I posted my message last week, (again, apologies for the double post) I learned that it sometimes helps to read things a bit more closely. I have the lights working perfectly now. Seems I had missed where exactly to connect the 12v power source (the amp and the power pack light kit). Once I had that corrected using a pigtail connector to the barrel plug for the 12v brick battery, the lights began working like a charm.

While I now have the lights working, the sound is not working like it had before. Turning the switch on used to have the power on hum. Now, there is no sound at all. Can't get the theme either. I have sounds for pack shut down and pack venting, and stream firing, but that's about it. I did check the wiring and all appears correct. I do want to verify this: the thin wire bundles for the switches come with red, yellow, and green shielding. Using the sound board diagram from earlier in this thread, I've been connecting the thin red wires to the terminals marked with red, the yellow wires to the black terminals, and the green wires to the pale green terminals. Is this consistent with those of you out there who have working sound and light?

Another question is about the Miscellaneous Sound Switch. It has three wires, but the diagram shows only two connections are used on the sound board. What happens to the third? I wouldn't think it just sits there loose.

Appreciate your help.
#4815088
I'm having some problems with my pack and wand kit.

History:
I had a Heavy Props pack, wand & sound kit installed. When I used new 9v energizer or duracell batteries, the lights would stay on all the time but look dim. This was regardless of whether the pack was on or not. (when the pack was on they were bright, when it was off they would still flash and cycle but they were very dim).

When I used off brand 9v batteries everything worked perfectly

I recently swapped out the sound board for a gbfans kit. I still use the heavy props lights.
When I use a generic brand 9v everything works flawlessly... for about 30 minutes until the battery is drained and dead.

Problem:
I recently purchased a 12v 9800mah blue brick battery. When I hook it to my pack the pack lights are always on. Not dim. On as if the pack were activated. The wand bar graph also does not work.
I've read where other people have had similar problems but I've 's never seen a satisfactory resolution.
Any help?
#4815136
I tried this and it worked.

When wiring up the Crix light & sound kit, you run a set of wires from the wand kit power terminal to the pack lights power terminal. From there you run an extra set of wires from the pack light power terminal to a battery.

When you remove the crix sound kit and replace it with the gbfans kit, you undo all of that. Run the wires from the wand kit power terminal to the "wand" terminals on the gbfans kit. Then you run one wire from the gbfans "pack" terminal to the pack lights power terminal. If you run both wires to the pack lights, everything lights up and goes crazy.

Sucks that I fried my wand bar graph lights.
#4815987
Sooooo my power cell just up and stopped working. I haven't had the lights hooked up for weeks, trying to finish my pack before Halloween, and hooked the lights back together to try everything out before I mount them. The wand lights are working as expected, but the power cell lights don't work at all. Any thoughts?
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