- October 29th, 2009, 1:40 pm#178393
For those that wanted more pics:
Here's a shot of the back, I just cut a hole for the power switch in the back of the handle. Not super pretty, but it's hidden in your hand while holding the PKE and makes turning it on/off a snap.
And the circuit board itself. I just used my fingers/tweezers to slot the LEDS into the front face, then just set the circuit board in and then used a length of bamboo skewer under the side ridges to hold it in place. It's actually VERY solid, and makes things easy to remove if needed.
And here's the other side. You can see the scrap wood I glued into the top half of the front for the shell screws. The servos are glued onto the sides of the shell, and you can see some white where I had to clear away a little of the molding inside to have the servos sit level. Also, you can see where the 9v battery is just ducttaped in. I considered hiding it in the handle, but there was JUST not enough space, and by that point I was getting tired of dremeling the inside and just taped it in place. Still, it adds a little weight to the main chamber as if it were actually stuffed full of electronics and makes it easy to swap out, so no worries.
This is just a different angle on the insides. The only things glued in are the servos themselves, the power switch, and the scrap wood. You can easily pop everything out if you need to work on anything. Some people glue the wings onto the servos, but I found that with guntahkela's wings being molded to hold the crossbar inside, I just glued that into the wing itself but didn't glue it onto the servo directly. They hold just fine and also pop off easily if any wires come loose and need to be resoldered in the future.
And a still shot of the finished PKE:
Here's a shot of the back, I just cut a hole for the power switch in the back of the handle. Not super pretty, but it's hidden in your hand while holding the PKE and makes turning it on/off a snap.
And the circuit board itself. I just used my fingers/tweezers to slot the LEDS into the front face, then just set the circuit board in and then used a length of bamboo skewer under the side ridges to hold it in place. It's actually VERY solid, and makes things easy to remove if needed.
And here's the other side. You can see the scrap wood I glued into the top half of the front for the shell screws. The servos are glued onto the sides of the shell, and you can see some white where I had to clear away a little of the molding inside to have the servos sit level. Also, you can see where the 9v battery is just ducttaped in. I considered hiding it in the handle, but there was JUST not enough space, and by that point I was getting tired of dremeling the inside and just taped it in place. Still, it adds a little weight to the main chamber as if it were actually stuffed full of electronics and makes it easy to swap out, so no worries.
This is just a different angle on the insides. The only things glued in are the servos themselves, the power switch, and the scrap wood. You can easily pop everything out if you need to work on anything. Some people glue the wings onto the servos, but I found that with guntahkela's wings being molded to hold the crossbar inside, I just glued that into the wing itself but didn't glue it onto the servo directly. They hold just fine and also pop off easily if any wires come loose and need to be resoldered in the future.
And a still shot of the finished PKE:
I just ordered my kit. My GK shell has been sitting there lonely for a few months. Time to make it into a functioning prop when Hyperdyne's kit gets here!
- By Threadender
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