This model is based solely on the comic books, and measurements I was able to extrapolate from them. The model's grip thickness and overall bulk is designed to scale up against a single stack pistol grip, which should be A-OK for most people.
There will be a high power flashing LED in the barrel that activates on a trigger pull, and electronics that live in the Proton Pack to make the Boson Dart firing noise. Barring anything strange, it should hook up just like you see it on Winston and Kylie's packs.
Currently, I've got the right half printing for test-fit while I continue putting in screw mount points and bosses. It ideally should use M3 hardware everywhere. May yet move to plastite screws, but we'll see.
When I'm done, all files for the Proton Pistol will be made available for free. Electrical and mechanical BOM, full .STL's and source Sketchup files, ATTiny sketch, WT588 sound chip project, etc.
Thanks for the link. I'm totally jazzed for this! Definitely going to do this to add to my pack. Are you thinking of doing a separate sound-chip for the Boson dart or trying to integrate it with the sound board you already have? If you're integrating it, I look forward to seeing which sound board you've got and how you did integrate it.
I've got a Mattel wand, so my pack has a Mattyblaster.
Ideally, I'll be using a WT588 sound chip hooked into the Aux port on the Mattyblaster. Ideally, this little sub-section will be switched on by the Switched output on the board, also.
If I remember correctly from my discussions with Spongeface, the Mattyblaster's sound chip is in 3-line mode, and I don't want to hook a big mess of crap onto the board, only for it to be a shared resource. It's a lot easier to just hook up a totally separate sound section.
Also, fit testing went well, I'm happy enough with it that I'm printing the final shell halves now.
Not sure where to connect the pistol's cable on this one. I think the comics show it near/behind the N-Filter (flat sections of the Cyclotron?), and in several shots it almost looks like it's plugged in behind the pack, assuming to the charging plate.
Third option would be a Neutrik NC4FD-L-1 mounted to one of the flats on the cyclotron bottom nearest the N-Filter. Strength wise this would be the best, I think - and the idea that I'm partial to because of it.
From the wiki pics, I agree; it looks like it either plugs in the back or into one of the panels around the bottom of the cylcotron. I think I'll be mounting mine through one of the panels. I think I'll probably go with the bottom centre one.
I finished the Proton Pistol. Above, you can see my painted/weathered model that was brought to Anime Central 2017.
Another shot, this time hooked to the pack.
The electronics are pretty simple, and split into two sections. The Pack, and the Gun.
Gun Electronics/Parts: 10mm LED - Sparkfun COM-11118 Logic (TTL) Level N-FET - Sparkfun COM-10213 (Fairchild FQP30N06L) 10k 1/4 Resistor 22 ohm 1/4w Resistor Perfboard (Any) Omron SS-5GL111-3 Levered Microswitch (Digikey) DIP-8 Socket ATTiny85 Microcontroller (And Programmer) M2.5x20mm Socket Head Cap Screws (3) M2.5x25mm Socket Head Cap Screws (4) M3x25mm Socket Head Cap Screws (4) M3x35mm Socket Head Cap Screws (3) 1 Trigger Return Spring - I used one from Ace Hardware and cut it down a little to make it stronger. There's also one in the Harbor Freight Spring Assortment that should work nicely.
Pack Electronics/Parts: WT588-D Prop Sound Chip (And Programmer) Perfboard (Any) 3.3v Regulator (I used a EZSBC.com PSU2-3.3) SIP Header (Female) to make a socket for the WT588 sound chip.
Finishing Parts: Misc wire (for internals). Wire for Pistol to Connector (I used Belden 8484 wire, from eBay). Splitless 1/4" corrugated black plastic wire loom (Bought from Electriduct) Neutrik NC4FD-L-1 Female Connector for Proton Pack (4 Conductor) Neutrik SCDP-0 Gasket for Female Connector (For Looks!) Neutrik NC4MXX Male Connector for Pistol (4 Conductor)
Your pack configuration may differ from mine, so I'll tell you how I did mine.
Since I have a 5v source installed in my pack (the thing with the LED displays on it), I have a USB-Powered bluetooth adapter in there, with it's line out hooked up to the line in on my Mattyblaster board.
I hijacked the bluetooth module's PCB, to make connections easier. Specifically, I connected the output (DAC & GND) of my WT588D to the BT module's headphone jack GND and Left, this let me co-opt the existing connection. I then grabbed the +5v line and ran that over to my perf as well, where I connected it to my 3.3v regulator, to power the WT588D. The ground and power lines (GND/+5v) were branched, also, to lead out to the XLR jack, as shown. The other two wires were connected to P0 and P1 on the sound chip. I only used P0, but I figured another sound capability wouldn't hurt!
Remember your color code for the XLR connector, it'll make your life easier. As my Belden wire was Red/Green/White/Black, I used 1: Red, 2: Green, 3: White, and 4: Black, being +5v/P0/P1/GND.
COMING SOON - PISTOL INTERNAL PICTURES - I FORGOT
The pistol was a similar affair. Cut your wire to size - it should be long enough to let you comfortably point the pistol all over the place. Then add a foot, and sheath your wire with the corrugated wire loom. Connect one end to your connector (following whatever wire color code you came up with) and run the other end into your pistol. At this point, you can glue the sheath into one half of the shell's handle, inside the large recess modeled in specifically for the sheath.
The electronics are simple. Connect the microcontroller to +5v/GND/P0/P1 coming up from the handle. Connect the switch, and the FET gate. Connect the FET's gate to source with a 10k resistor (this becomes a 10k Pulldown). The FET gets GND to Source and Drain to the LED. Connect the LED anode to a 22 ohm resistor (1/4w) and then to +5v. You will likely want to perfboard this for ease of assembly.
From there, screw it together.
Now, give it a test!
Sorry about the rambling.
So, that's it!
I'll get pictures up of the inside of the pistol here in the next couple of days, as I have to open it up again to change the code on the microcontroller (increased the flash rate of the LED).