Has anyone tried to figure out how to wire lights and switches and other discrete components in such a way as to accurately recreate what's seen when Ray trains Winston? Not only so that things light up properly, but so that it's functional to the actual operation of emptying a trap?
Well. I did.
"Why?" you ask? I wanted to figure it out perfectly for the trap receptacle I plan on installing into my Ecto-mobile. It's one of those things that I know if I put on my Ecto, it has to operate as it does on screen or people (me included) will be disappointed.
I've done a basic sketch that anyone with an understanding of the trap emptying process and basic electronics will be able to figure it out.
I'll do up a cleaner sketch and label everything and try to make it follow internationally accepted symbols and stuff. It'll also be followed by a clear, step-by-step follow-through so y'all get how it works.
If anyone else has figured it out, but in a different way that runs the same, I'd love to see your plan. Also, if there are any "electrical engineers" who find an issue with my plan, let me know; I'd love help fixing it.
Yes, I have looked into this before and I am going to have to figure it out sometime in the future. I am not really sure how to read the diagram you've created and I am a little confused on the results you wish to achieve. Are you trying to mimic the exact functionality of the containment unit or just how the trap door process works?
Alright. So. To clarify. I'm trying to replicate the combination of lights and button pushing exactly as Ray does it here...
There are a few caveats though: I want to ensure that the buttons and lights will only work in the way shown. I also want to make sure you can't open the door part way through ('cause opening a trap receptacle mid-way through emptying would be a safety hazard).
Here's the updated diagram with (mostly) correct symbols. You'll see a legend as well for clarification. Here's the setup if you're building one: -pressure switch inside the trap receptacle in such a place where the weight of the trap cartridge will provide the means to close the switch; -a second pressure switch that closes three separate circuits; -a big green light, a big red light; -three push button switches (red, green and yellow) with internal LEDs that light-up when the switch is turned on (these will also need to be a type that resets [turns itself off] when it loses power); -a diode to block current; -a whole bunch of relays which will latch with power applied and unlatch with the loss of DC power; -big handle lever which will flip a "reset" on and off with its movement; -a small solenoid to act as a door lock.
If you've got more electrical skills than I and see flaws, please yet me know. I'll break it down into the events seen on screen in bold, then explain how the circuit does the job.
Ray and Winston are in front of the containment unit, there's a green light and green SLPBS (Self-Lit Push Button Switch) on. In it's default state, current runs through the "master" relay to an incandescent green lamp and a green SLPBS (which is forced into the closed position so the light comes on).
Open the door and insert the trap, the green light bulb and green SLPBS turn off and the red light turns on. Slide the trap into the receptacle to trigger the switch. This provides power to the "Master" relay (which is grounded through the "Reset" relay) which switches the green off and turns the red on. It also leaves power at the parallel door switch and at the unlatched side of "Reset Control Relay #1."
Ray closes the door. When you close the door, a few things happen. One; current runs to the locking solenoid, activating the lock. The locking solenoid has to be after the trap switch, otherwise the door would be locked as soon as the door closes, even if it's empty. And if it's empty, you can't unlock it. Two; current runs to the red SLPBS through the "Emptying Control Relay #1" and waits for the switch to be turned on. Three; it waits at "Emptying Control Relay #2". Four; it passes through the switch and "down" to trip "Reset Control Relay #1" which latches and, in doing so, allows a second current path to keep the relay latched. After that run around, it waits at "Emptying Control Relay #1" and "Reset Control Relay #2."
Ray then pushes the red SLPBS. Pushing the red button makes its light come on and passes current to the yellow SLPBS. It also trips "Emptying Control Relay #2" which allows a second (or back-up) current path to wait at the yellow SLPBS. The diode stops current from flowing on to ECR #1.
Ray pushes the yellow SLPBS which causes the red one to turn off. Pushing the yellow button makes its light come on and passes current to two places. One; current runs through the diode to keep ECR #2 latched. Two; it latches ECR #1. The upper contact of ECR #1 drops, cutting power to the red SLPBS, turning it off. With ECR #1 tripping, it also closes a switch for Reset Control Relay #2 in a similar run-around way that RCR #1 tripped when the door closed. This leaves current waiting at the reset switch at the Reset Control Relay #3.
Ray flips the big red lever. The yellow switch turns off, the red light turns off and the green lights turn on. Throwing yours will flip the Reset switch, locking the run-around latching thing. It breaks the ground for the solenoid, unlocking the door. Current leaving the relay goes to trip the Reset Relay. There's a second line, but that's for my own application of the project.
Tripping the Reset Relay kills the ground to the Master Relay which flips the relay back to the green lights. In the process, cutting the power going to the Emptying Control Switches which resets all the switches and relays there. It opens the switch on RCR #2 which is keeping itself latched.
Turn the reset lever back to its original position opens the switch, but RCR #3 keeps itself latched. Opening the door does open the switch but, again, RCR #1 keeps itself latched. Insert the trap to remove the cartridge. Doing that will open the trap switch. This pulls power from two places. One; it stops current to the Master Relay keeping it de-energised. Two; it robs all the Reset Control Relays resetting them and, in turn, the Reset relay resets and returns the ground to the Master Relay. Despite having its ground back, it's still missing power from the trap switch so the green lights stay on, back to the original configuration.
So what does all this accomplish? It means that once you insert the trap and close the door, the only way you can open it again is to push the two buttons in order before flipping the lever like Ray does.
There are a few things to also take into consideration. First, there is a tiny light inside of the trap box that comes on when the door is opened. I am sure this is something easy to include in your diagram. You can see this after Ray inserts a trap and lifts the door back up to close it. Next, there is a microamperes meter that reacts with the buttons. Thanks to the 4k bluray, I know for sure that when the green push button is lighted the arm is all the way to the right and reads 100. I couldn't tell you what yellow does but we all know the arm goes from 100 to 0 when the light goes red. Lastly, there are 3 barn lamps. Two of which are red and react identical to each other. The third lamp is on the opposite wall above the shutoff switch.
I am trying to make sense of your diagram but I am a complete novice when it comes to this stuff. I understand some of it but I guess I am having trouble following the positive and negative connections. Anyways, I hope this will help out somewhat. http://www.flamecorp.com/Eaton-MSC/PDF/ ... Series.pdf It's a .pdf spec sheet of the original push button switches which includes the wiring diagram. The series used on the actual prop is the 10H. I can also provide the wire diagram for both the correct barn lamps and the microamperes meter. If you wish to include these features in your setup, I will be glad to provide them to you.
Thanks for pointing out the red light on the back wall by the main switch, I hadn't noticed it; it's simple to add though. As for the gauge, I'll take your word for it; while I do own the blu-ray, I don't have a 4K TV so... Yeah.
As for sounds, it's not likely; but maybe in a later upgrade. I've designed this because I'm in the design process for an ecto-mobile whose primary roll is as a mobile containment unit. I plan to have a mini (or stream-lined) trap receptacle in the trunk and I wanted to ensure that if people came up and tried to use it (at conventions), it would operate as seen on screen. Seeing as my application is supposed to be for a modern, more streamlined unit, I'm not too fussed about the gauge. But I will look into how to add it to this circuit to make it work.
Can I try to explain the diagram any better to help you get your head around it?
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